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One of my first trad leads, on Ooga Chocka at Crowder's Mountain.


Member Since: Nov 7, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Total Points: 273
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 353 | Routes 3 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 58 | Posts 181 | Stars 84 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12a/b)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: What a line!! By far our favorite from our first trip to Shelf. Do it!

12a in the book. Bob said he originally gave it 12c, and folks downgraded it. I don't have a lot of context in the range, but I'd probably say 12b. VERY sustained and thin.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The crux on this route felt like 12a to me. Maybe I just didn't find the beta.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Dihedrus (5.10a/b)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Made me wish I had brought gear to Shelf.... Really nice technical corner, I clipped the bolts but just didn't feel right about it... :)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Absolutely stellar route. Several 11+ cruxes with still 5.11 movement between. Bolt placement was much, much spicier than anything else we did at Shelf. Reminded me of the New. Do not blow the fifth clip.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route, Blackman's Burden, and Misalignment all felt about the same difficulty, 10+ range. Sustained but lots of big holds and good feet to keep the pump at bay. Great route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: sanz When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: What is the descent for solists who don't want to rap? Do you downclimb the route or is there another downclimb?


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Homer Erectus (5.11b)
By: sanz When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: Even if you traverse to avoid the 12a crux, I thought it pretty stout for 11b. There are a couple of tough moves down low, and clipping the anchors is definitely the redpoint crux, especially if you have to hang the draws!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : The Inner Circle : Tony's Crack (5.11c)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: This route is called "Stop-n-Shop" in the Obed guidebook. Not sure of the naming history or what name it gets in Dixie Craggers but perhaps the page should be amended.

The route itself is short with two distinct and fun cruxes in the starting dihedral and the roof. Stick clip is mandatory unless you free solo 5.11


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Pale Face (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Awesome! The exposure through the crux is great. This route is nice and spicy for the area - one bolt more than Pet Cemetery and about twice as long!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library : Rage (5.12c)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Don't pinch yourself, this roof is actually real.

After slapping your way up the slopers of Pet Cemetery, a good 40 feet in the horizontal world guards the chains. Draws are fixed and abundant, and the first five will take you about halfway, where the 11+ jug haul ends and a stopper move announces the start of the business.

The head rush is intense on this one.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library : Pet Semetery (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Tension moves off of sustained slopers make this a unique route, very different from anything else I did in the Obed


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: There is now a fixed draw on bolt 4, so you only need to take 2 draws. All fixed draws are now ultra-bomber steel cables.

Technicalities out of the way, this route is as fun as fun gets. It is hard to believe how steep the thing is until you're up under it. The overhanging section is sustained and thuggy, and the roof section is just a matter of hanging on to huge jugs and working your feet before the pump clock runs out.

Absolutely stellar route that immediately jumped to the top of my l... more >>


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Whipper Snapper (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: really fun and steeper than it looks! pumpy for the grade if you're not used to steep jug hauling.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Ivy League (5.10b)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I agree that 11a is probably a bit generous but I think 10b could end up sandbagging people, especially the short. The one-move-wonder crux involves a much worse hold and much more technical movement than anything on Ticks. I think maybe 10c is a good middle ground.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Mr. Henar (5.12c PG13)
By: sanz When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: I will add a third vote that this is the best route I have done at Pilot. It has shiny new bolts, as well as 2 bomber chains and 1 bomber permadraw to protect the steeps. The grade comes from a tough boulder problem under the last roof. Up to the first permadraw is hard 5.10.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Fairtracer (5.10d)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Outstanding! Surprising amount of face climbing and bouldery moves with a really cool crux. The gear is good but for me it was pumpy to place in a few spots. The guide says gear is all .75 and under. I brought one #1 and recall wanting another #1 and a #2 in spots, but certainly made do without.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Bimbo Shrine (5.11b/c)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Two or three interesting cruxes and a pumpy finish. I thought it deserved more than the two stars it gets in the guidebook. Would certainly be a three-star route if it weren't right next to Scenic Adult and Tony the Tiger.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Sancho Belige (5.11c)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Really cool movement with several tough deadpoints and lots of variety. I got very pumped and the route felt stout at the grade to me, but there aren't any stopper moves, just lots of solid 5.11 moves on a rapid pump clock. Those with strong endurance will probably not find it as hard.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : The Green Piece (5.10b)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Used this to warm up for Sancho and was surprised by the quality and pump of the route!


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : New River Gunks (5.7+ PG13)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: Not at all PG13. There are a couple of placements you don't want to miss but it's all there. You also don't need a big cam to protect the offwidth section at the top.

However, the OP's intention of keeping brand-new leaders off this route is probably wise. Despite the grade it would not be a good first lead.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Junkyard Area : Junkyard Wall : Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013

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Comments: This is as good as 5.9 gets. Felt stout at the grade, much harder than New Yosemite. Definitely a must-do if you're at the Junkyard, even if you lead much harder.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9) : Photo
By: sanz When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: This is a sub-optimal way to end pitch 2. If you keep cruising up 5.easy terrain for a few more meters you can belay from an epic lunch ledge. This makes the last pitch a scramble.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Ames Wall : Michelin Man (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: I thought this would be a sloper slap-fest, but surprisingly there are lots of vicious crimps, especially down low. This route packs several difficult moves and few easy ones, and the exposure up top is great.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Bubba Buttress : Face it Bubba (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: The crack is lots of fun and I wish it would keep going... but the face has some cool balancey moves too. Protects very well but the first bolt is a candidate for replacement.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Strike A Scowl (5.10b/c)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: The awesome setting makes this good climb feel even better.


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