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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : The Inner Circle : Tony's Crack (5.11c)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called "Stop-n-Shop" in the Obed guidebook. Not sure of the naming history or what name it gets in Dixie Craggers but perhaps the page should be amended.
The route itself is short with two distinct and fun cruxes in the starting dihedral and the roof. Stick clip is mandatory unless you free solo 5.11
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Pale Face (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome! The exposure through the crux is great. This route is nice and spicy for the area - one bolt more than Pet Cemetery and about twice as long!
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library : Rage (5.12c)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't pinch yourself, this roof is actually real.
After slapping your way up the slopers of Pet Cemetery, a good 40 feet in the horizontal world guards the chains. Draws are fixed and abundant, and the first five will take you about halfway, where the 11+ jug haul ends and a stopper move announces the start of the business.
The head rush is intense on this one.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library : Pet Semetery (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tension moves off of sustained slopers make this a unique route, very different from anything else I did in the Obed
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a fixed draw on bolt 4, so you only need to take 2 draws. All fixed draws are now ultra-bomber steel cables.
Technicalities out of the way, this route is as fun as fun gets. It is hard to believe how steep the thing is until you're up under it. The overhanging section is sustained and thuggy, and the roof section is just a matter of hanging on to huge jugs and working your feet before the pump clock runs out.
Absolutely stellar route that immediately jumped to the top of my l... more >>
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Whipper Snapper (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: really fun and steeper than it looks! pumpy for the grade if you're not used to steep jug hauling.
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Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Ivy League (5.10b)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree that 11a is probably a bit generous but I think 10b could end up sandbagging people, especially the short. The one-move-wonder crux involves a much worse hold and much more technical movement than anything on Ticks. I think maybe 10c is a good middle ground.
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Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Mr. Henar (5.12c PG13)
By: sanz When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I will add a third vote that this is the best route I have done at Pilot. It has shiny new bolts, as well as 2 bomber chains and 1 bomber permadraw to protect the steeps. The grade comes from a tough boulder problem under the last roof. Up to the first permadraw is hard 5.10.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Fairtracer (5.10d)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Outstanding! Surprising amount of face climbing and bouldery moves with a really cool crux. The gear is good but for me it was pumpy to place in a few spots. The guide says gear is all .75 and under. I brought one #1 and recall wanting another #1 and a #2 in spots, but certainly made do without.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Seven Eleven Wall : Bimbo Shrine (5.11b/c)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two or three interesting cruxes and a pumpy finish. I thought it deserved more than the two stars it gets in the guidebook. Would certainly be a three-star route if it weren't right next to Scenic Adult and Tony the Tiger.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Sancho Belige (5.11c)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool movement with several tough deadpoints and lots of variety. I got very pumped and the route felt stout at the grade to me, but there aren't any stopper moves, just lots of solid 5.11 moves on a rapid pump clock. Those with strong endurance will probably not find it as hard.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : The Green Piece (5.10b)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used this to warm up for Sancho and was surprised by the quality and pump of the route!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Junk Yard Wall : New River Gunks (5.7+ PG13)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not at all PG13. There are a couple of placements you don't want to miss but it's all there. You also don't need a big cam to protect the offwidth section at the top.
However, the OP's intention of keeping brand-new leaders off this route is probably wise. Despite the grade it would not be a good first lead.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Junk Yard Wall : Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is as good as 5.9 gets. Felt stout at the grade, much harder than New Yosemite. Definitely a must-do if you're at the Junkyard, even if you lead much harder.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9) : Photo
By: sanz When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sub-optimal way to end pitch 2. If you keep cruising up 5.easy terrain for a few more meters you can belay from an epic lunch ledge. This makes the last pitch a scramble.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Ames Wall : Michelin Man (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this would be a sloper slap-fest, but surprisingly there are lots of vicious crimps, especially down low. This route packs several difficult moves and few easy ones, and the exposure up top is great.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Bubba Buttress : Face it Bubba (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack is lots of fun and I wish it would keep going... but the face has some cool balancey moves too. Protects very well but the first bolt is a candidate for replacement.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Strike A Scowl (5.10b/c)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The awesome setting makes this good climb feel even better.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Discombobulated (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would probably be a better climb if it wasn't right next to Legacy. The crux down low is pretty cool and there is some good movement up top, but it just feels kinda bland compared to its neighbor.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Head Wall : So Freakin' Fun (5.10d)
By: sanz When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can add that it seriously is a blast. I can think of few pitches I have climbed that require so much variety in technique - face, chimney, stemming, jamming, layback, traverse... its all there. Also, I disagree that staying in the crack/chimney will mess you up. In fact, I think it would be easier to try to traverse left too soon.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. No hard moves, but for a while, those horizontals aren't quite as juggy as they look! Definitely packs a pump. Also recommend the Toxic Shock start. I do disagree that this is "the" 5.9 at Shortoff... I thought Construction Job was better.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Straight and Narrow (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did it in three pitches. The second belay stance is not the most comfortable and it makes the second pitch quite short, but the position on the wall is super cool. Kinda has a big-wall feel. If you're in no rush and the weather is nice, it's a pretty cool place to hang out.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Construction Job (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top shelf climb. Highly recommend the two-pitch method - this makes the money pitch about 150 feet long and too much fun! We didn't have any issues with drag.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Help Mr. Wizard (5.11-)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta?
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Location: International : South America : Ecuador
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stephanie's comment is right on. Cuenca has the best climbing in the country and a great climbing community. Brush up on your Spanish and stop by Monodedo or the climbing wall and get to know the locals. They will be happy to give you beta, and you might just find a partner if you're rolling solo.
Only one point to correct - while the focus is definitely on sport climbing, there is trad to be had, especially at Cojitambo.
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