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One of my first trad leads, on Ooga Chocka at Crow...


Member Since: Nov 7, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 2,085
Total Points: 279
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 365 | Routes 3 | Areas 7 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 59 | Posts 187 | Stars 88 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Devil in the White House : Devil in the White House (5.10d)
By: sanz When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Plenty of ways to climb this one. I don't think any of them are 5.11. The face crux is a bit cryptic but straightforward once unlocked. Either way you tackle the roof, it's a jug haul. Fun climb with lots of variety. A nice warmup for the harder stuff in the Ampitheater.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Overhang Hangover (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Cruiser face climbing leads to a nice rest. Fun undercling moves to get under the roof, where a mean but well-protected crux awaits you. Everyone seems to do it a different way. Run out over easy ground above the crux.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Three Bears : Any Major Dude (5.11+)
By: sanz When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Just led it yesterday. My new favorite at Pilot. The pitons that give this route the alternate name of "Five Pins" seem fairly solid. Placed two cams in the horizontal under the roof to back up the final piton, which is the only one that has real big fall potential. Pulling the roof is a doozy of a crux. Great movement below, and climbing over rusty pitons gives Five Pins the kind of spice that is hard to come by at Pilot.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : North End : Nutsweat (5.9+)
By: sanz When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: One pitch is the way to go. One 60 gets you down perfectly. The variety and exposure on this route are unreal. Find gear in the dihedral, crux into the traverse, and head out into a jug haul that, in my opinion, beats the Zoo View roof any day. I can't say enough good things about this route. Do it.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Quaker State (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: Truly classic climb. I have only followed it - the gear looks very tricky. Pretty awesome to watch the pro puzzle be unlocked. An onsight lead would be really impressive.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Wailing Wall (5.6)
By: sanz When: Nov 8, 2011

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Comments: The exposure and unique rock on the billboard face are truly classic. Sling your pro and try not to place gear to your right to ease drag before turning the corner. If you only have a single 60, you can scramble right to rap from the Quaker State/Golden Earring anchors.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Chicken Head City (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Chossy start leads to really fun exposure up top. Sling all your gear until you turn the corner. Bring 2 slings for chickenheads. Tricams were helpful for me. Red C3 or a good nut on the final slab is essential.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Screamweaver Area : Southern Boys Don't Wear Pl... (5.11a/b)
By: sanz When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: The holds are there. Pretty much a fun, steep boulder problem on gear. Hard to get back on the wall if you blow the crux following.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Gift Certificate (5.8)
By: sanz When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: TCU is still there. That thing ain't going anywhere. This is a fun climb, combined with Bear Hunt or Bear Cub makes a nice warmup for the harder stuff in this area.


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Gunboat Diplomacy (5.10c/d)
By: sanz When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Great route, similar balancey crimping to Seven Year Itch but minus a few tougher crux moves. A .5 C4 in the perfect mail slot keeps the high first bolt from being an issue. Clip up after that, with a long runout over easy terrain to finish. If you led this, you should try Seven Year Itch!


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Flakeview Area : Seven Year Itch (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 7, 2011

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Comments: Stellar crimpfest with good, balancey movement. Bring thin fingers gear to tame the runout between the third and fourth bolts. The crux is definitely down low, after that pretty close to Gunboat's level. Be careful on the belay - the first crux move is protected only by the first bolt, and falling on it with no slack will whip your shin right into a sharp ledge. I watched someone open his leg up pretty bad on it.


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