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One of my first trad leads, on Ooga Chocka at Crowder's Mountain.


Member Since: Nov 7, 2011
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 2,085
Total Points: 273
Last Year: 66
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has sanz been climbing?










Contributions


All 353 | Routes 3 | Areas 7 | Photos 16 | Page Improvements | Comments 58 | Posts 181 | Stars 84 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Strike A Scowl (5.10b/c)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: The awesome setting makes this good climb feel even better.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Discombobulated (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012

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Comments: This would probably be a better climb if it wasn't right next to Legacy. The crux down low is pretty cool and there is some good movement up top, but it just feels kinda bland compared to its neighbor.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Bubba City : Head Wall : So Freakin' Fun (5.10d)
By: sanz When: Nov 11, 2012

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Comments: I can add that it seriously is a blast. I can think of few pitches I have climbed that require so much variety in technique - face, chimney, stemming, jamming, layback, traverse... its all there. Also, I disagree that staying in the crack/chimney will mess you up. In fact, I think it would be easier to try to traverse left too soon.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Fun route. No hard moves, but for a while, those horizontals aren't quite as juggy as they look! Definitely packs a pump. Also recommend the Toxic Shock start. I do disagree that this is "the" 5.9 at Shortoff... I thought Construction Job was better.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Straight and Narrow (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: We did it in three pitches. The second belay stance is not the most comfortable and it makes the second pitch quite short, but the position on the wall is super cool. Kinda has a big-wall feel. If you're in no rush and the weather is nice, it's a pretty cool place to hang out.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Construction Job (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Top shelf climb. Highly recommend the two-pitch method - this makes the money pitch about 150 feet long and too much fun! We didn't have any issues with drag.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Help Mr. Wizard (5.11-)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta?


Location: International : South America : Ecuador
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Stephanie's comment is right on. Cuenca has the best climbing in the country and a great climbing community. Brush up on your Spanish and stop by Monodedo or the climbing wall and get to know the locals. They will be happy to give you beta, and you might just find a partner if you're rolling solo.

Only one point to correct - while the focus is definitely on sport climbing, there is trad to be had, especially at Cojitambo.


Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Cotopaxi : Regular Route (Mod. Snow)
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Amazing climb for an alpine rookie. For those with little mountaineering experience and gear, many adventure travel companies in Quito will set up a package with a guide, transportation, food and gear rental for $200 a head, which struck me as a very good deal.

The climb itself is mostly non-technical and I would feel completely comfortable attempting it a second time without a guide. We belayed once shortly after gaining the glacier in an icy section. There are several steep sections which ... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Groover (Gaskin Finish) (5.8)
By: sanz When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Do you really climb 100 feet above pro on pitch 4? If so, how in the world does this not have a R rating?


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Super Direct (5.8) : Photo
By: sanz When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: Thanks Matt. Guess we were on the right start after all. How that is 5.8 is beyond me.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Super Direct (5.8)
By: sanz When: May 4, 2012

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Comments: This felt 10 times harder than Airshow to me, but maybe I just suck at overhanging finger cracks.


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Super Direct (5.8)
By: sanz When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: I have no idea if we did the right start to this, or the right line at all for that matter. We started up a steep finger crack with a couple of roofs, which was hard enough to make the 5.8 rating seem like a joke. Bomber nuts abound but I had real issues with the rope getting stuck in the crack. It made me cringe to abandon these nut placements for less elegant cams outside of the main crack, but drag became infinitely better once I did. After the initial crank, the rest of the climb is a ro... more >>


Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Zombie Woof (5.10b)
By: sanz When: Apr 16, 2012

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Comments: One word pretty much sums it up - Epic.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Riddle (5.10c)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: I almost gave this the bomb rating because a cam between the first and second bolts is absolutely essential, but mentioned nowhere in the guidebook. If that move was any more 10c, it would be 12a! Without gear, a fall would lead to a nasty groundfall or at the very least a hard pendulum right into your belayer. Can't speak on the rest of the climb... I didn't want to risk the fall and left my gear over by Black&Tan, so I downclimbed.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Aesthetica (5.11c)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Fun but hard! Or at least it was for me. The crux section is awesome and sustained with a couple of tough, long moves. Feels like a boulder problem in midair.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Black and Tan (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Excellent and super aesthetic line with lots of variety in both movement and gear placements.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fantasy Area : Fantasy (5.8)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: Absolute, pure fun.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Strong Arming the Little Gu... (5.10b)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This was my favorite climb at the Orange Oswald wall, but it suffers from the same impact as all of them - chalky, polished holds all the way up.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : Summersville and Gauley Riv... : Summersville Lake : Orange Oswald Wall : Orange Oswald (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012

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Comments: This is a fun climb. Interesting crux and fun jug haul at the top. However, I have to echo the sentiment that every single line at the Orange Oswald wall is climbed to hell. The setting makes it worth it, but if these routes were not so chalky and polished, they would be much, much better climbs.


Location: NC : Cooks Wall : 'Tang area : Great taste of tang (5.10)
By: sanz When: Mar 12, 2012

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Comments: This goes as a sport line. I placed one nut under the first bolt for the hell of it, but it felt well protected after that. There is a crucial, hidden final bolt as you pull the roof that really helps to lower your heart rate!


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Granola (5.8+)
By: sanz When: Dec 30, 2011

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Comments: I didn't find the fall potential to be too bad... Getting up to the first ledge is easy, and from there it's one solid mantle up to the crack and pro. The undercling traverse that follows is fun and heady. The main crack goes easy, with a little surprise waiting at the very end. Make sure to top rope Whiskey for Breakfast from the anchors!


Location: NC : Rumbling Bald : Cereal Buttress : Fruit Loops (5.7+)
By: sanz When: Dec 30, 2011

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Comments: Lots of fun. The first pitch crack is great, but the weirdness of the second pitch is where it's at! Moving out onto the face is a blast and once there, although the climbing is not spectacular, the view is hard to beat.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Devil in the White House : Devil in the White House (5.11- PG13)
By: sanz When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Plenty of ways to climb this one. I don't think any of them are 5.11. The face crux is a bit cryptic but straightforward once unlocked. Either way you tackle the roof, it's a jug haul. Fun climb with lots of variety. A nice warmup for the harder stuff in the Ampitheater.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Overhang Hangover (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 14, 2011

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Comments: Cruiser face climbing leads to a nice rest. Fun undercling moves to get under the roof, where a mean but well-protected crux awaits you. Everyone seems to do it a different way. Run out over easy ground above the crux.


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