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One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...


Member Since: Nov 7, 2011
Last Visit: May 17, 2015
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
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All 366 | Routes 3 | Areas 7 | Photos 17 | Page Improvements | Comments 41 | Posts 202 | Stars 92 | Ratings 4
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Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Core shot in a Mammut Infinity 9.5 after boinking ...

Core shot in a Mammut Infinity 9.5 after boinking on sharp rock.

Trip Reports : Close call at Rumbling Bald

Nov 19, 2011

One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowde...

One of my first trad climbs, Ooga Chocka at Crowder's Mountain.

sanz : Ethan Slattery photos

Nov 7, 2011

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Pichincha Massif : Ruco Pichincha : East Ridge/Direct Route (Easy 5th)
By: sanz When: Nov 3, 2014

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Comments: This is a really cool way to get to the top of Rucu, which you will probably do anyway if you're acclimating for Chimbo or Coto. Take the teleferico and hikers trail up to the base of the volcano's rocky peak. Where the hikers trail breaks right to loop around the backside of the peak, head straight up moderate-angle, featured rock aiming for the false summit. Follow the path of least resistance and keep heading up! I think you pass three false summits on the way.

We brought rock shoes and I'm... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Spiney Ridge : The Hurricane (5.12a/b)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: What a line!! By far our favorite from our first trip to Shelf. Do it!

12a in the book. Bob said he originally gave it 12c, and folks downgraded it. I don't have a lot of context in the range, but I'd probably say 12b. VERY sustained and thin.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Almost French (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: The crux on this route felt like 12a to me. Maybe I just didn't find the beta.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Dihedrus (5.10a/b)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Made me wish I had brought gear to Shelf.... Really nice technical corner, I clipped the bolts but just didn't feel right about it... :)


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Lats Don't Have Feelings (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: Absolutely stellar route. Several 11+ cruxes with still 5.11 movement between. Bolt placement was much, much spicier than anything else we did at Shelf. Reminded me of the New. Do not blow the fifth clip.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Muscle Beach (5.11a/b)
By: sanz When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route, Blackman's Burden, and Misalignment all felt about the same difficulty, 10+ range. Sustained but lots of big holds and good feet to keep the pump at bay. Great route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: sanz When: Oct 6, 2013

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Comments: What is the descent for solists who don't want to rap? Do you downclimb the route or is there another downclimb?


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : North Clear Creek : The Inner Circle : Tony's Crack (5.11c)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: This route is called "Stop-n-Shop" in the Obed guidebook. Not sure of the naming history or what name it gets in Dixie Craggers but perhaps the page should be amended.

The route itself is short with two distinct and fun cruxes in the starting dihedral and the roof. Stick clip is mandatory unless you free solo 5.11


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Pale Face (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Awesome! The exposure through the crux is great. This route is nice and spicy for the area - one bolt more than Pet Cemetery and about twice as long!


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library : Rage (5.12c)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Don't pinch yourself, this roof is actually real.

After slapping your way up the slopers of Pet Cemetery, a good 40 feet in the horizontal world guards the chains. Draws are fixed and abundant, and the first five will take you about halfway, where the 11+ jug haul ends and a stopper move announces the start of the business.

The head rush is intense on this one.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Stephen King Library : Pet Semetery (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: Tension moves off of sustained slopers make this a unique route, very different from anything else I did in the Obed


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : Solstice Cave : Solstice (5.12a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: There is now a fixed draw on bolt 4, so you only need to take 2 draws. All fixed draws are now ultra-bomber steel cables.

Technicalities out of the way, this route is as fun as fun gets. It is hard to believe how steep the thing is until you're up under it. The overhanging section is sustained and thuggy, and the roof section is just a matter of hanging on to huge jugs and working your feet before the pump clock runs out.

Absolutely stellar route that immediately jumped to the top of my l... more >>


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Whipper Snapper (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: really fun and steeper than it looks! pumpy for the grade if you're not used to steep jug hauling.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : Lilly Bluff : Ivy League (5.10b)
By: sanz When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: I agree that 11a is probably a bit generous but I think 10b could end up sandbagging people, especially the short. The one-move-wonder crux involves a much worse hold and much more technical movement than anything on Ticks. I think maybe 10c is a good middle ground.


Location: NC : Pilot Mountain : Amphitheater : Mr. Henar (5.12c PG13)
By: sanz When: May 14, 2013

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Comments: I will add a third vote that this is the best route I have done at Pilot. It has shiny new bolts, as well as 2 bomber chains and 1 bomber permadraw to protect the steeps. The grade comes from a tough boulder problem under the last roof. Up to the first permadraw is hard 5.10.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9) : Photo
By: sanz When: Nov 15, 2012

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Comments: This is a sub-optimal way to end pitch 2. If you keep cruising up 5.easy terrain for a few more meters you can belay from an epic lunch ledge. This makes the last pitch a scramble.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Fun route. No hard moves, but for a while, those horizontals aren't quite as juggy as they look! Definitely packs a pump. Also recommend the Toxic Shock start. I do disagree that this is "the" 5.9 at Shortoff... I thought Construction Job was better.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Straight and Narrow (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: We did it in three pitches. The second belay stance is not the most comfortable and it makes the second pitch quite short, but the position on the wall is super cool. Kinda has a big-wall feel. If you're in no rush and the weather is nice, it's a pretty cool place to hang out.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Construction Job (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: Top shelf climb. Highly recommend the two-pitch method - this makes the money pitch about 150 feet long and too much fun! We didn't have any issues with drag.


Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Help Mr. Wizard (5.11-)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012

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Comments: We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta?


Location: International : South America : Ecuador
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Stephanie's comment is right on. Cuenca has the best climbing in the country and a great climbing community. Brush up on your Spanish and stop by Monodedo or the climbing wall and get to know the locals. They will be happy to give you beta, and you might just find a partner if you're rolling solo.

Only one point to correct - while the focus is definitely on sport climbing, there is trad to be had, especially at Cojitambo.


Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Cotopaxi : Regular Route (Mod. Snow)
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012

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Comments: Amazing climb for an alpine rookie. For those with little mountaineering experience and gear, many adventure travel companies in Quito will set up a package with a guide, transportation, food and gear rental for $200 a head, which struck me as a very good deal.

The climb itself is mostly non-technical and I would feel completely comfortable attempting it a second time without a guide. We belayed once shortly after gaining the glacier in an icy section. There are several steep sections which ... more >>


Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Groover (Gaskin Finish) (5.8)
By: sanz When: Jun 21, 2012

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Comments: Do you really climb 100 feet above pro on pitch 4? If so, how in the world does this not have a R rating?


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