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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : Sancho Belige (5.11c)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really cool movement with several tough deadpoints and lots of variety. I got very pumped and the route felt stout at the grade to me, but there aren't any stopper moves, just lots of solid 5.11 moves on a rapid pump clock. Those with strong endurance will probably not find it as hard.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : South Side : Kaymoor : Butcher's Branch : The Green Piece (5.10b)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Used this to warm up for Sancho and was surprised by the quality and pump of the route!
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Junk Yard Wall : New River Gunks (5.7+ PG13)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not at all PG13. There are a couple of placements you don't want to miss but it's all there. You also don't need a big cam to protect the offwidth section at the top.
However, the OP's intention of keeping brand-new leaders off this route is probably wise. Despite the grade it would not be a good first lead.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Junk Yard Wall : Four Sheets to the Wind (5.9+)
By: sanz When: May 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is as good as 5.9 gets. Felt stout at the grade, much harder than New Yosemite. Definitely a must-do if you're at the Junkyard, even if you lead much harder.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9) : Photo
By: sanz When: Nov 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a sub-optimal way to end pitch 2. If you keep cruising up 5.easy terrain for a few more meters you can belay from an epic lunch ledge. This makes the last pitch a scramble.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Ames Wall : Michelin Man (5.11d)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this would be a sloper slap-fest, but surprisingly there are lots of vicious crimps, especially down low. This route packs several difficult moves and few easy ones, and the exposure up top is great.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Bubba Buttress : Face it Bubba (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crack is lots of fun and I wish it would keep going... but the face has some cool balancey moves too. Protects very well but the first bolt is a candidate for replacement.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Diamond Point : Strike A Scowl (5.10b/c)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The awesome setting makes this good climb feel even better.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Snake Buttress : Discombobulated (5.11a)
By: sanz When: Nov 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This would probably be a better climb if it wasn't right next to Legacy. The crux down low is pretty cool and there is some good movement up top, but it just feels kinda bland compared to its neighbor.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Bubba City : Head Wall : So Freakin' Fun (5.10d)
By: sanz When: Nov 11, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can add that it seriously is a blast. I can think of few pitches I have climbed that require so much variety in technique - face, chimney, stemming, jamming, layback, traverse... its all there. Also, I disagree that staying in the crack/chimney will mess you up. In fact, I think it would be easier to try to traverse left too soon.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Dopey Duck (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route. No hard moves, but for a while, those horizontals aren't quite as juggy as they look! Definitely packs a pump. Also recommend the Toxic Shock start. I do disagree that this is "the" 5.9 at Shortoff... I thought Construction Job was better.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Straight and Narrow (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We did it in three pitches. The second belay stance is not the most comfortable and it makes the second pitch quite short, but the position on the wall is super cool. Kinda has a big-wall feel. If you're in no rush and the weather is nice, it's a pretty cool place to hang out.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Construction Job (5.9)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top shelf climb. Highly recommend the two-pitch method - this makes the money pitch about 150 feet long and too much fun! We didn't have any issues with drag.
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Location: NC : Linville Gorge : Shortoff Mountain : Help Mr. Wizard (5.11-)
By: sanz When: Nov 5, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We attempted the start this weekend and couldn't find any gear to protect the crux moves to gain the crack. There was no fixed pin in sight. Any gear beta?
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Location: International : South America : Ecuador
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stephanie's comment is right on. Cuenca has the best climbing in the country and a great climbing community. Brush up on your Spanish and stop by Monodedo or the climbing wall and get to know the locals. They will be happy to give you beta, and you might just find a partner if you're rolling solo.
Only one point to correct - while the focus is definitely on sport climbing, there is trad to be had, especially at Cojitambo.
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Location: International : South America : Ecuador : Cotopaxi : Regular Route (Mod. Snow)
By: sanz When: Oct 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Amazing climb for an alpine rookie. For those with little mountaineering experience and gear, many adventure travel companies in Quito will set up a package with a guide, transportation, food and gear rental for $200 a head, which struck me as a very good deal.
The climb itself is mostly non-technical and I would feel completely comfortable attempting it a second time without a guide. We belayed once shortly after gaining the glacier in an icy section. There are several steep sections which ... more >>
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Groover (Gaskin Finish) (5.8)
By: sanz When: Jun 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you really climb 100 feet above pro on pitch 4? If so, how in the world does this not have a R rating?
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Super Direct (5.8) : Photo
By: sanz When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Matt. Guess we were on the right start after all. How that is 5.8 is beyond me.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Super Direct (5.8)
By: sanz When: May 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This felt 10 times harder than Airshow to me, but maybe I just suck at overhanging finger cracks.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Super Direct (5.8)
By: sanz When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have no idea if we did the right start to this, or the right line at all for that matter. We started up a steep finger crack with a couple of roofs, which was hard enough to make the 5.8 rating seem like a joke. Bomber nuts abound but I had real issues with the rope getting stuck in the crack. It made me cringe to abandon these nut placements for less elegant cams outside of the main crack, but drag became infinitely better once I did. After the initial crank, the rest of the climb is a ro... more >>
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : The Amphitheater : Zombie Woof (5.10b)
By: sanz When: Apr 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: One word pretty much sums it up - Epic.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area : Riddle (5.10c)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I almost gave this the bomb rating because a cam between the first and second bolts is absolutely essential, but mentioned nowhere in the guidebook. If that move was any more 10c, it would be 12a! Without gear, a fall would lead to a nasty groundfall or at the very least a hard pendulum right into your belayer. Can't speak on the rest of the climb... I didn't want to risk the fall and left my gear over by Black&Tan, so I downclimbed.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area : Aesthetica (5.11c)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun but hard! Or at least it was for me. The crux section is awesome and sustained with a couple of tough, long moves. Feels like a boulder problem in midair.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area : Black and Tan (5.10a)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent and super aesthetic line with lots of variety in both movement and gear placements.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Endless Wall : Fantasy Roof Area : Fantasy (5.8)
By: sanz When: Apr 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolute, pure fun.
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