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Location: AZ : McDowell Mountains : Gardeners Wall : The Phantom (5.7 R)
By: Sam Prentice When: Mar 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The lower half of the first pitch is absolutely stellar, steep, continuous 5.7. Among the best climbing at that grade you'll encounter anywhere, albeit over too soon. The easy but exposed arete finish makes this climb more than a one pitch wonder.
Their respective length differences aside, I wish this climb was adjacent to mental physics, so people could feel how a real four star 5.7 presents itself.
Combine this climb with Renaissance direct and your half-day is prime for smiles.
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Location: AZ : Superstition Mountains : Northwest Pinnacles : The Hand : Razor's Edge (5.6)
By: Sam Prentice When: Mar 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Proud old school mini on a lesser formation. Worth doing once a year, but never again on a weekend.
This is a two pitch climb. Ascend the east ridge starting in an east facing class 4 gully. Pitch one ends at the obvious saddle belay with a shiny new 3/8" and two mank 1/4" rawls. The double rope rap descent is well protected.
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Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Sam Prentice When: Dec 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: On a tangential note, the timing of this auction is specifically designed to allow the sitting president to solidify executive orders before he leaves office on Jan. 20.
Executive orders have the strength of law and get little review from congress. However, they must be in effect for 30 days before becoming law. Every president that terms out uses this to his advantage (e.g., designation of Grand Staircase-Escalante as a national monument by Clinton on his way out). Hence the Dec. 19 "auction".... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Touch And Go Face : Touch And Go (5.9)
By: Sam Prentice When: Nov 6, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you've made it this far down the Comments section, you're going to do the route, and so you should take 15 minutes extra to run up the bolted juggy face climb you pass on the descent: north facing, on your right as you scamper down the mini canyon behind touch and go wall, 4 bolts and a grey camelot down low, probably 5.8... a fun and quick bonus prize after a great climb... anyone know the name?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs : White Cliffs of Dover : Make or Break Flake (5.10b)
By: Sam Prentice When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sexy, boulderly start with fun finger locks and jams, followed by short easy shuffling and awkward face moves to exit.
The descent sucks: ball bearing exposed traverse on left side, then circle around back and destroy soil and nolina down a short gully. Bolts would be safer and significantly less damaging to the area... hopefully an early ascent steward of this climb will add them some day.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Cardinal Pinnacle : West Face (5.10a)
By: Sam Prentice When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pitch 1: One airy step right (10a) at the changing corners will keep you on route. An additional fun, airy move further to the right will put you at the bottom of a clean fist crack (20ft, 5.8). A fun deviation, if not part of the route proper.
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Location: CO : The Mountain Shop Grand Re-...
By: Sam Prentice When: Mar 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Supporting local businesses is a must, but I expect decent customer service. Hopefully the new iteration of Mountain Shop will be more on point than before in this regard.
-st
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Mt. Sill : Swiss Arete (5.7)
By: Sam Prentice When: Oct 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just up the trail from sam mack meadows, there are a series of broken, vegetated ledges that are protected and work great as bivy spots. They're off trail to the right (west, i think), as you head up above treeline. Check em out if the sun is low or to save energy for the next day.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : The Palace : Mineshaft Wall : Monstrosity (5.10b)
By: Sam Prentice When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quality gymnastics at each move.
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Location: CA : Redwood Coast : Moonstone Beach : Karen Rock
By: Sam Prentice When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Walk up sandy trail. Set up TR. Climb solid conglomerate to see foggy redwoods and meandering estuary, or belay from sand as sun sets.
Heaven on earth, either way.
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Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : El Cracko Diablo (5.8)
By: Sam Prentice When: Sep 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good alternative to Durrance when you're looking to summit but not stand in line.
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Photo
By: Sam Prentice When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cosmic Wall passes through the Ogre's left eye (climber's right).
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris
By: Sam Prentice When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 2.5 mile hike up to the top of the Crags is short, steep, dusty, and unrelenting. Expect 1.5 - 2 hours to the base of The Ogre. Amazing views reward you at mile 2, with the crags arrayed on the west end of a granite plateau and Shasta looming in the northeast.
Don't pass up the year round water at Indian Springs - a great microclimate fold in the mountain, off a marked spur trail at mile 1.6.
Camping on the Crags plateau is possible but not convenient for climbing purposes.
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Location: CA : Shasta Cascade : Castle Crags : The Ogre aka Mt. Hubris : Cosmic Wall (5.6 R)
By: Sam Prentice When: Sep 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Done this quality route about six times. Classic moderate climbing in a stellar location. Will continue to introduce it to new climbers for years to come.
Extra beta for those in need:
There is no clear approach path, owing to the low traffic - just a maze of discontinuous user trails. Generally, stay high on the plateau (north side, along a shallow ridge) and trace you way west towards Mt Hubris. Drop south when you’re close - not before. Look for a big poderosa at the base. And dont wear s... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : The Sentinel : Fote Hog (5.6)
By: Sam Prentice When: Oct 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Classic. A near perfect single pitch 5.6.
This overlooked and underrated route is likely the best 5.6 in the park: balancy face moves to start, an overhang with huge jugs, a nice bear hug/finger crack midway, and a solid layback to top it off.
Dr. Evil is right on: unless you're still gaining your lead head, do it in one pitch. Start at the top of the left leaning ramp, and conserve placements until you get to the overhang.
If you dont know how to reduce rope drag, this is a great route to ... more >>
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