Let's get together outside. One weekend. 400 FREE REI outdoor classes and outings across the nation, July 30-31.
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Rock Climbing Photo: The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.

Sam Lightner, Jr.
is a member of
Point Rank: # 257
Total Points: 2,464
Last Year: 217
Last 30 Days: 5
166 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1491 | Routes 79 | Areas 28 | Photos 203 | Page Improvements | Comments 239 | Posts 858 | Stars 84 | Ratings
Page 6 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: SD : Custer State Park : Tenpins/Switchbacks : Hairy Pin : Cleveland Route (5.10+ X) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 9, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: A-ha... well, I found the picture in storage. My big ticks on that trip were Hariy and the Thimble after tr-ing it (woos). I wasn't sure what route this was or what pin even. Thanks for the clarification. IT makes sense that its the Tricouni cus I also have a shot of my partner and I rapping form the summit...
I can remember thinking on top of Hairy Pin that 10 seemed really low. It was scary, but not that scary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Long Canyon : The Shipyard
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 2, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Erosion is part of us climbing... its par for the course.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not sure why you guy's are missing this. The point isn't "Don't drill". I'm all for natural gas (personally, I don't speak for MACA there) and I know we need it. However, there are places we could leave it in the ground and call it our strategic reserve that we go to when times are really tough. This is one of those place. Drill for natural gas? Fine. Just not in these specific spots.
Again, not opposed to seeking the natural resources that all of us use. Just opposed to it here.


Location: CO : Oil and Gas in Moab
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 27, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Gang,
Everyone needs to be aware that the areas north of Moab are still on the block. It looks pretty good for Big Bend, though they aren't in the clear yet. However, Tusher, Courthouse, and Hell Roaring are still to be sold.

Trey and Rick. Uhm, well, it does not actually tear down a climbing feature. However, I think most of us feel that bulldozers creating platforms, burn-off flares doing their thing, and the general truck and heavy equipment traffic is counter to what we look for in t... more >>


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Do the Right Thing (5.11c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 22, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Actually not me. It was first bolted by Joe Sotile. However, it had been an established top rope for years before hand... Rex Hong first on that.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : The Arch (5.12a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 22, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Actually, I did the F.A. on this. Rex of course could have gotten it but he gave the route to me. Nice of him.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Blacktail Butte : Lower Blacktail Butte : Waterstreak (5.12b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 22, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: First ascent was Rex Hong.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 21, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with Josh on this on all points. I wonder more about lightning or some weakness geologically that was exacerbated in the two storm cycles we had this fall. There is a theory that the white lines we can see streaking haphazardly down the towers are from lightning running down the surface... its only a matter of time before an anchor gets hit... but this is just speculation. Whats important is that everyone get the word out. Also, unless someone wants to volunteer I will try and fix it whe... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter : South Face (5.7)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: OK Gang, Angie was there so we know how it is. The hole for one of the two half inch bolts was somehow compromized in the last few weeks. All I can figure is the the thunderstorms this summer let a huge amount of water into the hole and that maybe the anchor took a lightning strike... I can only tell you all was solid last spring (as numerous ascents since have proven).
This is to be expected sometimes in bolts placed vertically in sandstone. I am currently laid up and thus cannot get up the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: OK Gang, Angie was there so we know how it is. All I can figure is the the thunderstorms this summer let a huge amount of water into the hole and that maybe the anchor took a lightning strike... I can only tell you all was solid last spring (as numerous ascents since have proven).
This is to be expected sometimes in bolts placed vertically in sandstone. I am currently laid up and thus cannot get up there to fix it for at least a few weeks. If someone is going up there I will provide the equip... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I've added a photo of the two first ascenitionists that is from the Museum of Moab. It was taken by Fran Barnes. The museum also has one of one of the two guys just about to summit. Its from afar and you can see the dust on the rock near the new bolts. I think we need to keep in mind that desert climbing required a different mindset then. There were no large cams to utilize when going up the crack, etc.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : South Sixshooter
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: One of the two Half inchers with chain? Something messed with it if so. There were two other bolts up there that I did not incorporate into the anchor. Was it one of them? I hope it was one of them that changed its mind.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Sunny Side : Grateful He's Dead (5.10+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: You ladies stop squibbling.
They did suck. They were fun becasue they were good drug dealers, but as musicians, well, I think they only had one song where they actually tried to play as compnents to a band... everything else was a hippie jam fest.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 26, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Had I known I would have done Roadkill anchors. As is, it is a hard pull. Here is what we can do. The next person up can take a hand drill and a 1/2 inch bolt. ITs only about 30 minutes to drill the hole. I will provide the hardware, including the chains (we need chains folks). This will get ROadkill set up for the long haul and get the tat down that is so visible. Anyone planning on doing these towers should drop me a line... I"ll provide the gear.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil Dog Spire : Industrial Disease (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 15, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Some tidbits from Industrial Disease

"Warning lights are flashing down at quality control..

Somewhere in the corridors someone was heard to sneeze.
Goodness me, could this be industrial disease?


The watchdogs got rabies, the foremans got fleas,
And everyones concerned about industrial disease.

Some blame the management, some the employees,
And everybody knows its the industrial disease


On itv and bbc they talk about the curse,
Philosophy is useless, theology is worse.
History boils over,... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil Dog Spire : Industrial Disease (5.11+ PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 12, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I thought it was 11+, as did Jason Lantz, my partner. Perhapsit lost a bit of its veneer and thus is harder to get friction on.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 7, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Stym... what the hell are you talking about?
I have no idea how you could take what I wrote as a critique of you and your methods.
I believe aid lines are absolutely legitimate. I do it all the time and know that aid is the means to getting up 90% of the most proud lines in the world when they were first done.
I didn't know 06 was the year, but so what... old was just a guess cus I never see anyone aiding on Potash anymore.
FYI, the line doesn't cross over it a few times... it follows it.
What ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Room With A View (A2+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I just got off the phone with Josh and I think he misunderstood this. These guys were just freeing an old aid line... nothing for us all to get our panties in a wad for. The line looks really good (for Potash) and when they get it cleaned up I'm gonna be first in line.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 11, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Hey David
"So, you are telling me that standing on the hangers at this belay for this climb is a form of aiding, and that one cannot (reasonably) do the first few moves without standing on these hangers?"
See, my comment still stands. Yes. Standing on hangers in the desert is aid and is commonly done. This ladder was probablyeven put in that way. Also, free climbing here changes season to season due to the softness of the rock. ONe mans edge is another mans smear is the next guys color change.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 1, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe. Maybe. You dont know if it will unscrew... the old bolts are not stainless and usually after 3 or 4 years there is too much corrosion to get the oldies out. SO, we brought the tool rather than risk it. I would be very surprised if those things would unscrew.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Death Canyon : Cathedral Buttress : Aerial Boundaries (5.10b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 24, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Hey ANdy... I get no credit for the F.A. on this thing... though I'd like to. I did it after it had been established with Newc. I think Greg put this up with Mike Fisher.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: " In my worst day I do not stand on bolts or anchors."

I"d say that shows a lack of experience in this climbing environment.


Location: UT : Moab Area : 191 South : Hole in the Rock Area : Smoot Route (5.9 A2+ R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 13, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: OK, in the interest of getting this correct I have added a route that was thought to be the first one put on the Seraph page by Todd G. As Brad B mentioned, at least according to the book and F.A. info, the route submitted by Todd and Matt Pickeren and Bill Grasse was for a different route. This description fits with what the Smoots described as their route.

This thing is soft. Its scary. The slab at the start has dire consequences if you slip and no single piece seems that good.

I removed the... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Which One's Pink? (5.11-) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 11, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: "beyond ridiculous"????
I think you are referring to me and I would very much like to here you explain how, in 100 years, rock climbers route names on rocks would be viewed beyond ridiculous when compared to cowboys, Indians, and settlers carving their 'whatever' on the rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Comfortably Numb (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 11, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I think Kalous, AKA The SAG, did the F.A.


Page 6 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!