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Rock Climbing Photo: The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 16 hours ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.

Sam Lightner, Jr.
is a member of
Point Rank: # 253
Total Points: 2,457
Last Year: 248
Last 30 Days: 0
166 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All 1485 | Routes 79 | Areas 28 | Photos 202 | Page Improvements | Comments 236 | Posts 856 | Stars 84 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 4, 2009

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Comments: I had to place the anchors in that spot cus the location for the old ones is a slab that is hollow. I tapped it with the hammer and it rattled, so I moved them. This was the best location with solid rock.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C2+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 24, 2009

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Comments: Personally, I dont feel like I have enough experience to really distinguish between C2+ and C3 with clarity, especially when the sketchy moves include a hook above a ledge. I think I use the plus cus I dont know where C2 ends and C3 begins. Also, i didn't take the fall, so its hard for me to discern the distance... now that I think of it, I may not be able to rate an aid climb at all.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 13, 2009

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Comments: Good point Ben... wtf. We need that "stand on the pitons" punk to deflate this guy a bit. Ticks a hundred and suddenly he thinks he's done them all.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 10, 2009

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Comments: Hey Gang
This is a pretty good climb. However, in a meeting with the Friends of Indian Creek and the American Alpine CLub, the BLM requested we stop climbing on it for archeological reasons. This is a valid request as the original ruins at the base were a granary. They have asked that we remove the anchors as well. As there are 10,000 other cracks in the area, lets just let this one be climberless.
Thanks
Sam


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Cauldrons : Eye of the Newt (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 1, 2009

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Comments: I would take a few extra hand size pieces. The roof pitch felt 10+ to me simply because of the silt on one wall. Its a great climb and if it weren't so remote people would do it all the time.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Moab Rim Area : Moab Rim Trail Towers : Requiem (5.12+ A0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 26, 2009

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Comments: Thanks Paul. I didn't know for sure who was on the FA. It was only a rumor. Amazing this tower wasn't climbed until then as its in such a beautiful, accessible place.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Kor-Ingalls Route (5.9+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 24, 2009

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Comments: Liz Wattenberg and I (local ASCA) replaced two of the anchors and the two lead bolts with half inch stainless yesterday. No need to carry tat now. We also put a new log book on the summit as the others were pretty full.
Sam


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Washer Woman : In Search Of Suds (5.10+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 20, 2009

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Comments: The description above is incorrectly worded for the rappels. You DO NOT rap through the arch. You rap DOWN the arch or INTO the arch. If you go through it, as in from the west side pass through the notch to the east side, you are off the rappel route. There is an anchor at the base of the arch, but its best to continue, on double ropes, down about 60 more feet to a chain anchor on the left. From here double sixties reach a ledge just barely above the base .


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Cascade Canyon : Guide's Wall (5.8)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 23, 2009

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Comments: The Rappels descend from chains, trending rappers right to a large tree, then trending right to another smaller tree, then hard right to chains you pass on pitch 2... that gets you to the ground. THe top anchor has had one of the 1/4's replaced with a stainless 3/8. You need double ropes to use only these raps.

Oh, if you want to link the mid pitches together you don't have to have a 70, but you do have to use every inch of a 60. Set your belay in the notch at the base of the fingercrack rather... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Onion Creek : Mystery Towers & Top of the... : Gothic Nightmare : ... : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 6, 2009

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Comments: I love that we can see how fast the towers erode. I showed pictures of this to the park service in ARches and they were blown away... I think it helped them to recognize that erosion takes out our anchors really fast. SOme of the entrada seems like it disappears at about an inch every few years. A real inch, not an inch as I like to define it (roughly this long _______).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: A Dispute:
I was under the opinion that in honor of the heroine of Harry Potter, we were going to call this "Hermione Grangers Hatchet Wound" or "Hermione Grangers Lucky Broom", but Mr. Brandewie apparently veto-ed. This sad excuse of a name stems from bat who fell out of the crack (as Matt climbed past him) and only unfolded one wing, thus spun his way to the belay ledge and into the chimney. Thats a lousy way to wake up from a 3 month sleep.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 30, 2009

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Comments: Edit:
I have rethunk it and decided that the nasty choss filled black hole of a chimney on the second pitch consumed one of the original stars. Despite all the laughing about using the deathblock, this route only deserves one star. That star is for the first pitch... and the emotions the death block will stir up in everyone who does it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 27, 2009

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Comments: Thats just it, Paul, we couldn't. So we used it. THe thing looks like it should tip right off, like the Amoeba or the Car Door, but it stays even when you yard on it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: Sadly, the Brett Favre analogy is fitting. Not only does he have the record for the most touchdowns of all time, but also the most interceptions. You got Brett on a good day.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Four Peckers and an Amazon (5.10+ A2+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 24, 2009

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Comments: Brad, I thought it was a 1 star route til we got to the block... we laughed a very long time about the fact that you HAVE to use that block.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 22, 2009

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Comments: I love climbing with you guys... I"m laughing my ass off in a coffee shop right now.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 20, 2009

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Comments: Its like 40 feet... pretty much level.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 17, 2009

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Comments: Yet another pitch of FREE CLIMBING where Brad makes no upward progress?


Location: Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: I wonder the date. The outfit is for-sure 80's, but the equipment wasn't invented until well into the 90's. Someone was in a Wardrobe Timewarp.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : South Buttress Right, Mt. M... (5.11)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 11, 2009

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Comments: A few thoughts:

The crux felt like 11c to me, but it was wet. COnsidering this is normal, I'd go 11c. I didn't have any, but blue aliens or gray metolius would have worked great. THe scars are not deep.

The traverse pitch is amazing.

The bolts on the last pitch are there for mental support and its solid 5.10 slab. Be careful.

The top rap or two descends to the right. Don't get sucked into continually going towards the falls as the stations get worse and worse until the are balanced blocks on... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Standing Rock : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 9, 2009

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Comments: Layton Kor said of "why" for this thing: "Because it might not be there much longer." It actually looks like its tipping over in the photo.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 8, 2009

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Comments: Of course... it the standard desert legend of "Jimmy/Earl threw a rope over it once and toproped up the backside." Names are interchangeable.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : Brer Rabbit (5.11b A3+ R) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments: THe Duck is in there.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Sun Wall : Dreamscape (5.11c/d)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 30, 2009

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Comments: Excellent... cool looking over the top. Fun movement, different techniques.


Location: AL : Sand Rock : Holiday Block : Never Believe (5.11b)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: And make that 11c.


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