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The Shield


Member Since: Apr 9, 2006
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
Contact Sam Lightner, Jr.


Point Rank: # 225
Total Points: 2,202
Last Year: 112
Last 30 Days: 1
137 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Sam Lightner, Jr. been climbing?










Sam Lightner, Jr.

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (1404) | Routes (67) | Areas (26) | Photos (183) | Comments (227) | Posts (831) | Stars (70) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : White Heat Wall : Little Creatures (5.10c/d PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: 5 days ago

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Comments: In BARF's rebolting process, a fair bit of nastiness was found with this pitch. The fourth and fifth bolts were both in loose flakes, the fourth now being in said flake and in Wild Iris Mountain Sports as an example of where NOT to place a bolt. While feeling around for the second bolts location from the obvious clipping flake, said-flake flew over my head, meaning there was no clipping hold at the crux. So, some stuff was moved around. The start now makes it something like 11c, but it is better... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : The Labyrinth (5.9)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jan 16, 2014

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Comments: I'd say this should not be characterized as just a 5.9. This is 5.9 where the climbing might not be protected and retreating with an injured partner would be difficult at best. Its a super cool route, but don't tell yourself that you climb 5.10 in the gym so this 5.9 will be easy. It's not like that...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : Ruins Crack (5.10+)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 12, 2013

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Comments: There was a plaque. Someone chucked it. Pull the anchors.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 27, 2013

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Comments: People.... take a wrench. It's a good idea to carry one on every tower. I"m not sure why this particular route has had the anchor messed with, but It was a damn solid one 6 years ago. For what its worth, someone messed with the anchor on Owl Rock a couple years after it was redone, but we re-fixed it. Be ready to make your own repairs.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 13, 2013

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Comments: New stainless were put in. Going up there another time with a battery powered angle grinder and trying to cut off the old bolts without leaving obvious scars seemed difficult at best. However, it sounds like you have a lot of experience with this... why don't you be that someone who fixes it.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 24, 2013

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Comments: The anchors you are mentioning were not there when the tower was re-equipped. My guess is that your guess is right... slacklining bolts.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Bullwinkle Tower
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 20, 2013

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Comments: For some reason people mess with them. If you intend to climb this tower, you best take a wrench and perhaps a hand drill. Tighten up loose bolts... don't crank 'em, just tight.


Location: WY : Wild Iris
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 15, 2013

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Comments: If you are a regular climber at Wild Iris, Sinks Canyon, or any of the other areas around Lander, and you are also on facebook, please go to the Fremont County Climbers Coalition on fb. Either be a friend or "like" us. That is where you will get posting on the ups and downs of climbing in the Lander area... anything from access issues to grizzly bear sightings. The more people we have come to the site, the better we can get the word out to the climbing community. https://www.facebook.com/fremont... more >>


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Gun Street : The Aspen Glade : Mutt Ridin Monkey (5.10c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The work is done and the route is NOT over bolted. As it was, likely due to his number of bolts in his truck and the era, when we felt we had to look tough as sport climbers, this was done with a runout between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Falling when reaching the third would have likely landed you on the ground... a fall of 20 plus feet. That is no longer there and a change in the order has alleviated a long fall onto a slab up high. However, you still have to climb well above your gear up there, k... more >>


Location: WY : Wild Iris : Gun Street : The Aspen Glade : Mutt Ridin Monkey (5.10c)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 9, 2013

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Comments: The route right of Spurs is 11c. We have't figured out a name yet. Another route will go up in the coming days between the 11c and Mutt Ridin'.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : The Wicked Crag
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: It's new. Probably just a little dirty from winter runoff.


Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : Commercial Business Plannin...
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: I visit Sinks Canyon because it DOESN'T have commercial venues. I like that it is effectively a wild place. I very much would be unhappy with any move to having businesses, or any more development, in Sinks Canyon.
Sam Lightner Jr.
Lander


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Devil's Golf Ball : Regular Route (5.9 A2-)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Mar 27, 2013

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Comments: I managed something... I might have tied off some trees down below the start.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Learning to Fly (5.13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Dec 3, 2012

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Comments: Dude... he called you old.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arch Canyon : Dreamspeaker : South Face (5.11b R)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: A few things... getting to the base of the tower is pretty scary and you should probably rope up for the last bit. Lots of dirt and consequences will get you a write up in the local paper. This is one of the softest routes I've climbed outside of Arches. The offwidth is, in my opinion, solid 5.11. Much harder than any 5.10 offwidth in the Creek, if you use that as a base. you need #5's and #6's for it. The original anchor, two pins, has been replaced and is camo-chained up, for a rap... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Oct 6, 2012

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Comments: Devin, if I understand your comment correctly, which is hard to do, then you do not understand access issues. Were you at public lands day this year? Last year? Have you commented on the ATC trail that may be coming? If you climb at the Creek, anywhere in the Indian Creek drainage, you are part of the problem that created the parking lot. And if you didn't show up to help out, then you are even more of the problem.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Hell Roaring Canyon : The Warlock : Wings of Leather (5.11 C0 PG13)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Sep 5, 2012

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Comments: Good effort Herb... its a lot of liebacking or grovelling up there.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: The one below it, too.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : Y Tower (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 24, 2012

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Comments: I was just kidding. We all know it was a proud ascent...


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Small towers next to Echo a... : Y Tower (5.7) : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 22, 2012

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Comments: I think Stool Sample would be a more appropriate name. And i agree with Brad... calling that thing a tower is a sign you are getting old, and are married.


Location: CO : San Luis Valley : Penitente Canyon : Penitente - Inner Canyon : True Penitence (5.11a)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jul 3, 2012

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Comments: If this is what I think it is, then I was told, back in the '80s, I got the F.A. However, that was like '87, not '84, so if the info is right, then I am wrong. For what it's worth, I called it "Vogon Poetry".


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Castleton Tower : North Chimney (5.8)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 16, 2012

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Comments: I spent a full season right next to North Chimney and saw most parties show up without the #5. They then complained, as they should, when they got to to "the move". I even saw one group that brought the #5 to the base, but then decided not to take it on the route.

Just carry the big cam, people.

The rating is "old school" 5.8. I'd call it 10- now.

And one more time, the discussion of replacing the bolt is not about safety. With the cam you have safety. Its about convenience. Its... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Bridger Jacks : Thunderbolts (Easter Island... (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: Jun 8, 2012

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Comments: Yeah dude, thats me... unable to see that 100% of the force on a piece of fixed protection is downward. Hmmm.

Besides pullout, the biggest problems with angles are:
1) they are untreated steel and will break down in sandstone. As taken directly from BD's website, "With normal use and proper care, the life expectancy of your aid iron is approximately five years, and can be longer or shorter depending on how frequently you use them and on the conditions of their use. " All of the pins were ruste... more >>


Location: SexPanther aka Kiedis : Things to do when you're ch... : Photo
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Is that Gina, Killis?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Sam Lightner, Jr. When: May 12, 2012

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Comments: I feel compelled to say this:
Ancient Art's Stolen Chimney is NOT a sport climb and should not be attempted by any climber who is not very comfortable climbing 5.10. There are places on each pitch where if you fall you will likely die. At the very least you will be badly hurt. The replaced bolts are nothing more than than a modern version of what the original ascent party had. They can be manipulated with by people, or damaged by the elements, in such a way that they are not safe. For thi... more >>


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