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Member Since: May 4, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Sam Cannon
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Point Rank: # 806
Total Points: 953
Last Year: 32
Last 30 Days: 1
72 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Sam Cannon been climbing?










Contributions


All 1095 | Routes 8 | Areas 1 | Photos 140 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 146 | Posts 145 | Stars 503 | Ratings 148
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WA : Northwest Region : Darrington : Three O'clock Rock : Silent Running (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 10, 2016

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Comments: Pitches 2,3, and 7 are awesome. The whole route is, for a slab climb, very comfortably protected. Appreciated having small cams to #2, especially on p7. P7 is not 10b. Maybe 10a, but felt more 9/9+ to me. Look for right facing dihedral with a single bolt above and that is your line. Hanger and bolt loose on p1 anchors. Awesome line, beautiful setting!


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Rabbit Ears Area : Middle Rabbit Ear : West Face (5.7)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: Great route! While I've been here I've climbed a few of the "classics" and think this is a very deserving outing. Steep, exposed, and super fun. I think the route had a few 5.8 moves, YMMV.

One note: 3 raps with doubles 60s, the 2nd rap is ATROCIOUS. The placement is really, really bad and I'd be surprised if you DIDN'T get your rope stuck. The ropes run over a very sharp edge and they get massive pigtails. I had to ultimately climb a wide chimney and scramble some slab to get back up to the an... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : The High Horns : The Wedge : Shillelagh (5.9+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 18, 2016

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Comments: I don't know how Alex approached the route, but 5 miles seems off to me based on how I did it and the approach was the most straightforward of the various Organ routes I have done.

Here's some beta that might help future parties. Take the Modoc Road in as far as your car will allow (don't even think about taking a sedan, you need clearance and pretty good suspension), then follow the road for a long ways, swing out wider to the right when the road forks. The Tooth and the Wedge will be very ob... more >>


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Chimney (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 9, 2016

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Comments: No animal carcasses, some feces (but avoidable) and really interesting, excellent climbing. I really enjoyed pulling the roof at the end. I thought a triple length sling fully extended would get me up without rope issues moving from the final chimney through the roof, but the rope still pushed in my cam at the lip of the roof. Best to either not protect the last chimney or use enough slings to make a straight fall line.

I really enjoyed this unique route, though some may be turned off by the ev... more >>


Location: CA : High Sierra : 04 - Ritter and the Minaret... : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face, Direct Star... (5.10a) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Feb 5, 2016

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Comments: Thanks for the additional info. If you have any more details about the descent, please add them. I'm going to repeat this route this summer and I badly botched the descent last time.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 23, 2015

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Comments: Beauty of a shot!


Location: CA : High Sierra : 04 - Ritter and the Minaret... : Clyde Minaret : Southeast Face, Direct Star... (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: I'm not that invested in it. Feel free to ax it if you'd like.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: Left a pair of pink Anasazi 5.10s size 9.5 on the Perch Saturday evening (the 15th of Aug). Will pay for shipping plus $20 to get them back.

I'll delete this post in a week or two to reduce clutter.


Location: WY : Grand Teton National Park : Mount Moran : CMC Route (5.5) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 11, 2015

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Comments: Whoa, insanely fast.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Ogden : Snowbasin : Mt. Ogden : The Gray Slabs (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Aug 3, 2015

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Comments: Had a great time climbing this route (another JG gem) yesterday, and wanted to leave a few comments:

While it's not bad, the approach, at least how we did it with just the beta listed here, was more like 20 min or so. Not a biggie, but it's listed as 5. We took the gondola up which puts you above the start of the route and you have to hike the mountainbiking trails down and then bushwhack over to the base.

Also, the route does not start at the lowest point on the slabs; you'll find ... more >>


Location: UT : Uinta Mountains : Hayden Peak : Aces High Tower : Aces High (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 29, 2015

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Comments: So you scramble around the initial headwall? Because I led from the VERY bottom and it was 5.9+ with bad rock and subsequently, bad gear. Then I walked over to the base of the main corner and led up to the chains - thankfully I slung every piece and had little ropedrag. Was I off-route for the start? If so the route needs an updated description, as the first section I climbed was a bit dicey.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Lizard Head Wall : Blue Collar Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 16, 2015

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Comments: My friend is wearing manufactured crack climbing gloves. There are several companies that make them. I'm surprised if this is the first time you've seen them, but I'm guessing your comment was derisive and not inquisitive.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - East : Lost Pioneers (5.10a PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: As of 6.12.15 there are bolted anchors at the top below the OW/finger crack. I highly recommend, as others have, doing the OW section, it's awesome, and somewhere in the 9/10a range. There are anchors easily seen at the top of the OW as well.

I brought 1 #4 C4 and was glad to have it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Upper Breadloaves - West : Aspen Leaf (5.10a)
By: Sam Cannon When: Jun 13, 2015

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Comments: When you rap you might as well run up Stretch Marks, a stellar, short 5.9.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : The Phantom Menace (5.7+)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: It would be very possible to lead this route on gear, and would be quite fun to do so. I'd bring a set of nuts with a few extra mid sized, and a single set of cams up to maybe a #2 C4. You wouldn't use that many, but I think that's what I noticed in the size range.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Galaxy Area : Tatooine : Triumphal Arch (5.10c)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 30, 2015

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Comments: Dunno why all the fuss about TR'ing. Just have your partner clean it as you belay straight below the final anchors. It's bolted well enough to where there's never much of a pendulum, much less a Tarzan-death-swing into some other wall.

One of the more unique sport routes I've done in RC. Really enjoyed this one.


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Sundial : Sundial Falls (WI3)
By: Sam Cannon When: May 4, 2015

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Comments: 5/4/15 - PAGE EDIT: Name changed from "Frozen In Time" (my creation for lack of a better/established name) to "Sundial Falls" to reflect the new UT Ice Guidebook (thanks Nathan Smith!).


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Surrealistic Pillar Direct (5.10b)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: What is the actual route? I never traversed anywhere in my attempt, just stayed in the corner on the left and got stymied by a crazy mantel I didn't have the sand to pull. My partner went right just below the roof to pull it up into the tight hands crack.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Farley (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: I placed my #4 down low and had to bump my #3's a few times in the second half. You could definitely use 3 #3's and the #4 if you're wanting to sew it up. Fantastic route!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Delay of Game (5.8)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Several of the hangars are loose, could definitely use some tightening.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Yellow Wall : Yellow Wall (5.9)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: Just climbed this yesterday, 4/13/15. The single bolt that is the awful anchor for this route has sun-rotted tat on in. If you're planning on climbing this route, I strongly recommend a) not using the tat and b) bringing your own webbing/sling/whatever to extend the anchor as far as you can both for your second and so that you can have a reasonable assurance you can pull you're rope clean when you're done.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Cathedral Spires : Spire One : Spire One East Chimney (5.7+)
By: Sam Cannon When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: I've done a fair amount of chimneying in my short climbing career, so take this with a grain of salt. I didn't have any 4s or 5s and only placed one 3 and felt fine. I didn't feel a definite crux, just felt like secure 5.8ish chimneying. No OW'ing necessary.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : ... : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Running it out I felt far more secure in the crack than I would've outside. I learned to climb on gear, however, and all it takes is one trip to Indian Creek to see who the sport climbers and who the trad climbers are. That's somewhat of an unfair dichotomy, but liebacking a crack goes against my "upbringing." Jamming/being inside (even a wide) crack will always feel more secure to me! But whatever it takes to send, my friend :)


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13) : Photo
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: Do you know what the bolted line that breaks off the 4th pitch to the right of the chimney is?


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Bad Bananas : Bad Bananas (5.11d PG13)
By: Sam Cannon When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: With full respect to Perin's comment and the ultimate subjectivity of any climb/experience, I did not feel like this route was a "serious undertaking." It climbs quite quickly and is really well protected. There is a lot of loose rock, but if you've climbed Trilogy or Squawstruck it's nothing worse than those, and certainly not as bad as their (respective) worsts.

The 11d roof was quite hard for me (following, no less), but it's really tightly bolted. The 5.5 pitch is mellow with good bolts. Th... more >>


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