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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Live Oak Picnic Area : The Whispering Wall : Jeepers Leepers (5.10a R)
By: saltlick When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: the opening face moves are both the crux and most enjoyable sequence of the climb - a piece of pro in Three Friends could somewhat mitigate risk of a nasty fall before the first bolt.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Limbo Area : Back to Basics (5.7)
By: saltlick When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: With the right combo of hand-stacking and thigh-jamming one can more easily ascend to the point where the heel-toe becomes viable. Chickenwinging definitely makes B to B feel a couple of grades harder!
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Crystal Crag : North Arete : North Arête (5.6)
By: saltlick When: Aug 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: As Croft says, a tiny mountain-climb! IMO the 5.easy ridge traverse to the summit is the best part of the route...great rock and absolutely stellar position.
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Thunderbolt Peak : Thunderbolt to Sill Travers... (5.9 Easy Snow) : Photo
By: saltlick When: May 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hopefully good memories... six hours after this photo I was having one of my worst-ever nights outside at our bivy below the glacier. My pack wasn't feeling too heavy as we crawled up out of the Meadow, but man, I paid for it later!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8) : Photo
By: saltlick When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: ha! thought you were just giving me a thumbs-up, then saw the flying camalot...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8) : Photo
By: saltlick When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: wrong way, dude!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Old Woman : The Old Woman - West Face : ... : Photo
By: saltlick When: Apr 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: holy crap I'm not anchored at all! I must've been lulled into stupidity by the luxurious comfort of the bathtub!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : The Consolation (5.9) : Photo
By: saltlick When: Apr 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: finally realized that we chose the "farewell horizontal" pitch to start the Consolation. Very cool slab pitch and a preferred, if slightly complicated (with the subsequent traverse left), start to the climb.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining : Chouinards : Chouinards' Right (WI3)
By: saltlick When: Dec 2, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did Yvon have an ice-climbing sister, Yvonne? Or maybe it was his mom...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Television Screen (5.10b V0+)
By: saltlick When: Oct 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments:
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Location: CA : High Sierra : Lone Pine Peak : Bastille Buttress - Beckey ... (5.10d A0) : Photo
By: saltlick When: Sep 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: locks, or tips? amazing, either way...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Ted Shread (5.9)
By: saltlick When: Jun 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: this climb has zero moves in the 5.9 range. Whilst internets-ing around trying to figure out which climbs we had stumbled onto the other day, I found this gem on SummitPost:
"Ted Shred 5.9, trad. This route is the closest to the parking area and easy to recognize by its continuous finger crack. Don't use abundant face holds around the crack if you want to preserve its 5.9 rating. I haven't climbed that route yet."
We climbed the Mountaineer's Route on Whitney the next day, and, finding no MP ... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : Open Book Area : Mechanic's Route (5.8 R)
By: saltlick When: May 13, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "R" rating for this route doesn't really apply anymore; maybe if there weren't a bolt protecting the crux traverse on p1, or if there weren't sling-able heads on the face-climbing section of p2... All around a very enjoyable route with a cool mix of climbing! Definitely spicy off the ground, though...
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: saltlick When: Apr 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 on tricams - many of the pin scars protect well with cams, and great nut placements are abundant, but if you've got the tricams then you'll appreciate them more than ever here. fun route, though I was a little concerned about the stability of the big chockstone just below the first belay...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Orange Walk (5.10c)
By: saltlick When: Jan 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Desperate" is a good descriptor for the crux move...an otherwise enjoyable little romp.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : McCain Valley : Lowenbrau Pinnacle : Green Book (5.9)
By: saltlick When: Dec 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A newer bolt directly above the Green Book makes it even easier to link GB to Direct Service and reach the top of the Pinnacle in one long pitch. Communication gets difficult once the leader gets through the Short Link, and there is a little unavoidable rope drag, but on the whole it's an interestingly varied and well-protected climb. 60M rope requires 2 rappels to reach the ground.
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Skyline Pinnacle (5.7)
By: saltlick When: Oct 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: +1 on the quality of the crack on this climb - if only it were steeper! The moves onto the "Pinnacle" near the top feel harder than .7 to me...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Mission Gorge Traverse (5.8)
By: saltlick When: Oct 25, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route, possibly easier right to left (I felt)...somehow the greasier feet hooked up better that way. Only used pro to 2" myself...
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Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Leonids (5.9)
By: saltlick When: Oct 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't climb this without a helmet - plenty of ready-to-snap micro flakes and a few larger hollow bits - but it borders on over-bolted...
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Paradise (5.9)
By: saltlick When: Oct 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some friends and I literally stretched our 70m in order to belay from and lower all the way to the ground...left our rope thru the Paradise anchors and added a directional at MOR anchors in order to TR that route.
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