Though I wore myself out trying to get pro in the crack after campusing left under the roof, and couldn't pull myself up n' over on lead, the moves are solid 5.10 and (naturally) avoid sharing bolt-pro with Astropoodle.
Excellent fun and a worthy lead project for next time...
Comments: An amazing line, to be sure. Some jerk/considerate person has stashed a machete at the yucca for those who don't wish to awkwardly stem around it...IMO if you're having issues with bypassing the yucca, you should probably walk 50 yds left and climb Sunset Streaks instead.
The P1 stem-n'-squeeze was physical, but I'll agree with Riley and say that the last 10 ft of the p2 squeeze was the real hardness. I thought that the first bit of P3 deserved an R, considering the deck-potential, though I was... more >>
Comments: Stay out of the finger crack to the right of the bolts for a more sustained climb - as a bonus, I actually found it easier to make the transition to the upper face when approaching from below, rather than from the pod on the right. A stout, enjoyable climb.
Comments: With the right combo of hand-stacking and thigh-jamming one can more easily ascend to the point where the heel-toe becomes viable. Chickenwinging definitely makes B to B feel a couple of grades harder!
Comments: hopefully good memories... six hours after this photo I was having one of my worst-ever nights outside at our bivy below the glacier. My pack wasn't feeling too heavy as we crawled up out of the Meadow, but man, I paid for it later!
Comments: finally realized that we chose the "farewell horizontal" pitch to start the Consolation. Very cool slab pitch and a preferred, if slightly complicated (with the subsequent traverse left), start to the climb.
Comments: this climb has zero moves in the 5.9 range. Whilst internets-ing around trying to figure out which climbs we had stumbled onto the other day, I found this gem on SummitPost:
"Ted Shred 5.9, trad. This route is the closest to the parking area and easy to recognize by its continuous finger crack. Don't use abundant face holds around the crack if you want to preserve its 5.9 rating. I haven't climbed that route yet."
We climbed the Mountaineer's Route on Whitney the next day, and, finding no MP ... more >>
Comments: The "R" rating for this route doesn't really apply anymore; maybe if there weren't a bolt protecting the crux traverse on p1, or if there weren't sling-able heads on the face-climbing section of p2... All around a very enjoyable route with a cool mix of climbing! Definitely spicy off the ground, though...
Comments: +1 on tricams - many of the pin scars protect well with cams, and great nut placements are abundant, but if you've got the tricams then you'll appreciate them more than ever here. fun route, though I was a little concerned about the stability of the big chockstone just below the first belay...
Comments: A newer bolt directly above the Green Book makes it even easier to link GB to Direct Service and reach the top of the Pinnacle in one long pitch. Communication gets difficult once the leader gets through the Short Link, and there is a little unavoidable rope drag, but on the whole it's an interestingly varied and well-protected climb. 60M rope requires 2 rappels to reach the ground.
Comments: Some friends and I literally stretched our 70m in order to belay from and lower all the way to the ground...left our rope thru the Paradise anchors and added a directional at MOR anchors in order to TR that route.