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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 21, 2015
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Point Rank: # 218
Total Points: 2,609
Last Year: 324
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1181 | Routes 174 | Areas 26 | Photos 61 | Page Improvements | Comments 174 | Posts 102 | Stars 537 | Ratings 107
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic new entry. Glad it's finally getting filled in with routes. Good job, I know it takes a lot of time to post a lot of info like this. Glad there are people like you who actually take the time to do it, and do a good job.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Na! I just saw that the route description for North Country was not for the actual line, but for a variation that skips the first two good pitches and lands you at the beginning of the third "money pitch". Which is the last good pitch on the route before you get into all that easy ledgy stuff.
I'm not saying the variation totally sucks, but it's not North Country anymore than walking around to climb only the second half of Travelers Buttress without starting at the bottom - is climbing the rout... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Wreckage Wall : Obliteration Divine (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^

Sounds a little like someone got spanked. It's different and requires a diverse skillset, and the bolts are right where you need them, but not where you don't.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: The route described in this beta section is not North Country, it's a variation that skips the good climbing for easier but dirtier and less memorable climbing to avoid the mid 5.10 first pitch and short bulge on the second pitch. It does get you to the the "money" pitch all be it with much trouble, route finding and gardening, but in reality, you only actually climb one pitch on North Country.

North Country is a pretty direct line. You only traverse about 15 ft right at the top of pitch 1.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Mosquito Coast : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: I lead Separation Anxiety several years back per recommendation by Paul Crawford. I remember it being really hard but seemed like the gear was all there. Went back and took a look at it recently and felt like the gear was pretty sparse. Wouldn't lead it again, not that I could in my current state anyway.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 16 - The Owl : Owl Roof (5.12c) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: I tried it once. I got about that far and realized there was no way...ever!
And I had big ol cams.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Vendetta (5.10b)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, I did that last left hand pitch several years back. I remember the gritty rock, the burrowing your way through piles of leaves and dirt and stemming on kitty litter and oak leaves to claw your way to the top. Except at that time there was a rather large oak tree precariously perched over the top you had to crawl under.

I was not laughing!

Donini mentioned doing the first accent with fond memories on Supertopo a while back. That's when I realized, "that guys loosing it!" ;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: All these variations show a complete lack of vision by all parties involved.
I know everyone wants to leave their mark behind, but it doesn't take too long before everything just reeks like piss. Na' mean?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Dry December (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: That's unfortunate. The shade from those trees was the only thing keeping the poison oak at bay and keeping your ropes out of it when throwing them down.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Sweet, sounds good. A good way to scare the shit out of the little potheads who gather in that cave too.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: The pocketed face up to the stoner cave has been free soloed many times. Seemed pretty easy to me. The route must continue up past the cave I assume?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Scale Wall : Three Finger Salute (5.7)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: Whats the deal with this hanger? Did it fall out due to crap rock around it or did someone remove it for some reason, or was the nut just loose until it fell off or a noob removed it for whatever reason?

I have a ton of bolts and can replace it or give them to someone who frequents the area more than I do so they can replace it. Anyone know if the rock is in good shape and can support a sleeve bolt or would a glue-in be a better option. I have both.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Corte Madera
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 6, 2015

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Comments: Need some help with route identification as I don't have a guide for the area.
We drove down from northern Cali to sample some of the rock you guys have down there and climbed at El Cajon and Corte Madera for a few days last week.


At Corte Madera, not really knowing what we were getting on, we first climbed a route that starts out as thin slabby face with some solid .11+ moves to a tree where the route then followed a thin crack out left to the belay. Several mediocre and fairly contrived pi... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 4, 2015

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Comments: The consensus does not call it 5.12 because of your single rating of 5.11c, which brought the consensus down to .11d. The fact that you didn't onsight this route is further evidence of my point. You had to "dial the beta" on the first go before sending it on your second try. Then you downgraded it because it "felt" easier after knowing the beta. I'd suspect with your abilities, if it truly was a 5.11c, you'd have had no problem with the onsight, as I did at 5.12a. I would agree though, there are... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : A Few Dollars More. (5.10+)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The direct finish to this route is definitely the better way to go.
When making the mantle over the first big roof, I used a #6 Lost Arrow Piton dropped into a downward slopeing crack waist height at the mantle. Dropping the piton in this crack was good enough, no need to pound it in unless you wanted to fix it. There is a hidden round hole at the mantle, you have to feel for it above.

After the mantle, the gear you were spying from below is no good (flaring), however there is a good gr... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Easier Said than Done (5.10d R)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: The crux moves of this route are very well protected, however the 5.6ish corner system after the crux is not. You must climb up quite a ways before you find gear, which is good because it sets up the follower so they don't risk a sharp pendulum after unclipping the last bolt and moving through the crux.

Though this corner is super easy climbing, it is often full of leaves, so watch your step. If you fall from the top of the corner near where the first gear is, you could deck if theirs slack in... more >>


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : The Bear : Uncle Tom (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 30, 2014

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Comments: Why can't we just call this route what it is? 5.12A. 5.11d maybe if you want to go for the "I've got all the moves totally wired" grade.

Kill Uncle start too. I may have indulged in too much stuffing and Halloween candy lately, but .12b it is not. Much harder.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Hammer Dome : Smoke Screen (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 17, 2014

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Comments: Smoke Screen was bolted on lead, hand drilling at natural stances, probably before you were even born. Since then, it has become a minor classic with literally hundreds of accents. I'm not trying to be a dick. It just always sounds that way when you tell someone the truth about something they don't really want to hear. Anyway, if the route is scary and way runnout for you, or you don't feel comfortable leading above the anchor or whatever, then you probably should back off and climb something el... more >>


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Silk Road (High Times) (5.11 PG13) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: It's called Fault Line. 5.12 is a legit grade but keep in mind it's far more slab climbing than crack. It's also quite a bit runnout at the top. It's a lot different climbing than the topo suggests.

A triple set of RP's would be nice. A black Alien would be the biggest cam you get, and only one at that. A few of the green and grey(?) C3's would be awesome.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Scimitar (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 8, 2014

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Comments: There are others who upstage routes (as opposed to down grade them) to put a band aid on their bruised egos as well.

Now, I've climbed this route a dozen times with a dozen different partners.
One thing I've nailed down for sure is there are three ways to negotiate the R section. Left, Right and Center.

Left is exposed and steep. The traverse is easy but getting there puts the pucker on. And you're directly over your belayer. Don't get suckered into the bolt further out left. That's for The... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : The Podium (5.9 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Ah yes, you are correct! An R rating it does have though a mild one at that. No real need for bolts on top as one can easily just walk off. Probably faster to boot as one 60m or 70m rope will not get you to the base. You'll either have to bring two ropes (drag) or do two rappels from the OYDB anchors. The walk off takes less than two minutes.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Jericho Wall : Jericho Wall (5.8 A2+)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Fukkin bad muthafukn ass!!!!!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Blast Furnace (5.8)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 2, 2014

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Comments: Clearly a lack of vision.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mad Cow Boulder
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: Mr. Smith, I found your BD chalk bag and brush at the Mad Cow Boulder. Contact me so that I can get it back to you ASAP. If you know someone with a last name of Smith who climbs or has climbed at a Touchstone gym. Let him know I found his chalk bag and brush.

I have a dozen chalk bags and a pile of brushes I've found at VV boulders. I don't need another one.


Location: CA : Central Sierra : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : Sands of Time (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 21, 2014

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Comments: That's too much info IMO.

Anyway, I've got plans to re-vamp the entire Cal Domes page and add dozens of routes, pics etc... I just need to find the time. One of these days I suppose.


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