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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 251
Total Points: 2,017
Last Year: 639
Last 30 Days: 67
17 Compliments
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Contributions


All (990) | Routes (131) | Areas (25) | Photos (39) | Comments (138) | Posts (81) | Stars (481) | Ratings (95)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: 13 hours ago

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Comments: A friend of mine had a minor accident on the Pillar route on 4-12-14 where he and his partner had to bail and leave in a hurry. They had to leave some gear on the route which if could be returned by whoever finds it would be appreciated.

The person injured is ok. Just bruised and bloodied.

Please contact me if you're the one who cleaned the gear and we can work out how to get it back.

Thanks!


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Upper Tier : 5.10 Face (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Jimi, I have dozens of 6" SS glue in bolts and Hilti glue allotted and set aside for restoring the junk that adorns many of the routes and anchors at Diablo.

Lets pick a day sometime in the near future, get a few people to help us out and go to town on that place to finally put that time bomb crag to rest.

We need to develop a solution to the rock scarring as well. I propose lowering all the current anchors below the lip that aren't already, adding chains if need be and installing TR set up ... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: When I started climbing there in 2003, there was no trash and very little graffiti. Only a few things scratched in the walls by stoners from days long past. I don't know what changed, but the place is a fucking dump now. I was pretty taken back by it all fairly recently. I mean, it was pristine up until about 5 or 6 years ago.

I know the overwhelming bulk of it isn't climbers, but they aren't doing it much of a service either. I've seen some pretty shotty bolting and a small amount of retrobol... more >>


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: Why is this route not yet added to the routes database? Come on man, spill the beans!!!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: I wouldn't read too much into anything I say. The first pitch is certainly a bit crispy, but I didn't find it to be too bad. I never said it was strait forward, anything but. Pretty unique really.

I said the (I guess) 4th pitch roof was strait forward. Bomber jambs, good feet, short crux. I don't think height has much to do with it. The guy that followed me liebacked the whole thing which looked hard. I just sunk my hands in those bomber jambs and the hand of god itself couldn't have pulled me... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Lower Spire : The Siren (5.12-)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: The roof is definitely harder than 5.11d. Up to the first anchor is one of the best 5.11 face routes around and is very sustained.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Wood Hood : Smearing for Jesus (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Fun route that actually takes some pure friction. A little grainy but not too bad, like Jtree kinda. The first half is really tightly bolted and I ended up skipping a few bolts cuz I only had 7 draws. Shouldn't have bothered because the difficulties subside as soon as you can reach the arÍte and a bolt or two can be substituted with gear up higher.

Didn't find any use for micro anything (nuts/cams). A couple finger sized pieces do the trick.

Soft for the grade.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Wood Hood : The Hand of God (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Pretty classic climbing in the dihedral. Didn't find the first pitch to be much drama. A short crux and fairly obvious, well protected climbing.

The main corners first pitch is pretty bad ass going around the roof but I thought it was too strait forward with locker fingers and jambs and bomber feet to be anything harder than 5.10c/d so don't be intimidated by it. The pitch in the corner above was much harder and far more sustained.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mother Boulder : Space Lord (V0 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: One of my favorites. I see people trying this moderate problem all the time. People capable of climbing things much harder. They climb up, then down, searching left, then right. Then they downclimb defeated only to try again, commit and find a new confidence in themselves they didn't know they had. The huge smile on their face and sudden screams of exhilaration say it all.

Classic for sure.


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Mother Boulder : Crispy Critters (V1+)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2014

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Comments: Fixed that for ya Chris.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : West Face (5.8+)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 19, 2014

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Comments: Those anchors used to be bomber, all three of them. The rock is solid in that cave and those hangers, although they look like rusty old leepers, are actually rusty newer leeper hangers that are absolutely bomber.
There also used to be a SS SMC hanger but that one was removed after someone without the experience to tell the difference from a good anchor and a bad one decided to smash the hangers and move the anchor to the upper cave. They also lacked the skills and courtesy to remove them proper... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Paradise Lost (5.10a PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 8, 2014

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Comments: What do you mean by "remedied"?


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : LIVIN A DREAM (5.12b)
By: Salamanizer When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: Thanks for adding this route. I climbed it a couple years ago without knowing what it was (not on the topo and no one seemed to know anything about it).

It remains one of my more proud onsights. Though the grade is near but not technically above my onsight grade, I thought the climbing itself was sustained not only in difficulty, but in perplexity too. It's very cryptic and hard to read, but that only adds to the climbing which I thought was pretty damn good. There is some flaky rock still, bu... more >>


Location: CA : Sacramento Valley/Foothills : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Scott's Rock : Scott's Traverse (V9)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 29, 2013

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Comments: ^^^
Correct you are. Fixed!


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: It's another route, see "The Unsung War".

You can finish via these bolts from the Pillar if you wanted too as a variation that goes at about 5.8.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : Little Miss Manners (5.11d)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 9, 2013

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Comments: I lead it clean, onsight a couple years ago. The lower third of the route you need to be careful, but after that it's pretty strait forward gear wise. You just have to look for the small nut placements and be willing to climb above them. Thought it was a little spicy, but certainly not an X route, or even really an R.

And yeah you have to be solid .12a/b climber. It's a thin 5.11++ with fiddly small gear. It's not some down stream weenie roast clip up.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pulpit? : Prelude (5.6)
By: Salamanizer When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: The route was hand drilled on lead probably some time in the early 80's. Originally that route only had two bolts. The first two bolts and last two bolts were added later.

It was never meant to be a (safe) sport route. Just something to do on a lazy day. If you feel like the route would be better served by adding a bolt lower down, have at it.

Just use some discretion and the right hardware.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : Beverly's Tower (5.10a)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: The "Lower Merced Canyon" ratings (e.g. Arch Rock, The Cookie) are a bit stiffer than those in the Valley proper.

Not that I've noticed. They always seemed about the same throughout to me.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 18, 2013

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Comments: I've lead it in one pitch with a 60m rope. But I don't place much gear, three or four pieces and the bolts. It's 150ft of climbing.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Upper Spire : Thanksgiving (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: ^^^
No!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Clam Rock : Unnamed Center Route (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 9, 2013

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Comments: You frequent the area? I don't get to Phantom much because I don't care for the climbing there, but if you want to replace the hardware I'll give you the bolts and anchors to do it. But I think a lot of the bolts are 3/8 or 5/16 buttonheads and those can be a real bitch to remove and replace.

If motivated by belays and beer I might be talked into helping out ;)


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pulpit? : Prelude (5.6)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: The first 20ft is much easier than the rest of the climb. I don't know why the bolts were placed where they were, but that probably had something to do with it. This route was done a long time ago. I replaced the bolts on it several years ago as they were old crusty Leepers. It's not a sport route.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: It's 150 ft almost exactly.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Phantom Spires : Clam Rock : Unnamed Center Route (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 7, 2013

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Comments: I'm talking about the route on the arÍte. The start is like .12b. The one in the middle I've lead too but don't remember anything about the bolt condition. They're all pretty unmemorable.


Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Pillar (5.8+ PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: Right off the anchor on the second pitch is a splitter .5" crack that widens in a few spots to 1.5". The gear in this corner is solid up to and over the roof. It's after you pull the roof that the flakes and loose blocks prevent protection for a short bit. The two old bolts were placed long before Cams and nuts were invented or used. They were to prevent damaging the soft rock with pitons of the day. They are no longer needed to protect the route. The only reason they are still there is because... more >>


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