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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : The Unsung War (5.10+)
By: Salamanizer When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Those are origional. They've always been there.
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Human Oddity (5.12a)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I got the onsight without beta. Didn't even know what route it was.
It's soft for 5.12, but so is almost everything else at Auburn so considering, it feels about right.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line of comments could use a clean up
Done! I only removed the negative comments and posts but left all pertinent useful information. Most of it was old and outdated anyway. Typically I'm against editing anyone elses posts, but it was a bit out of control. Sorry if that offends anyone.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Metal Mania Boulder
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe you're describing the the Metal Mania boulder and the route Metal Mania which has a few variations that change the grade anywhere from about V0 to V2. There are a few more mediocre short problems on the boulder as well.
Not 100% on the name of the boulder but sure about the route. Done it many times.
Aaron, please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.
I'll change the entry shortly unless theirs an objection.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hmm, maybe that anchor could have used a little love. If feels solid, but the looks bare no confidence.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Blue Zenith (5.10a)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Half a 70m rope is like 115ft so if it's over half, then it's about 120/130ft. Still though, I would have thought it to be much longer than that. I know I've done it with a 60m and had plenty of rope left.
Well maybe that sounds about right. I've done Dry December and the Pillar in one pitch and both are about 150ft. Blue Zenith is shorter than both of those.
That ridge is pretty fun going up. I used to climb up through that big cave (the anchor for Blue Zenith) and free solo up to the top o... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Twin Towers : Chariots on Fire (5.11b/c)
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh man, I'm so freakin bummed! I eyeballed this line and started working the first moves a few months ago but never went back to start cleaning and bolting. I got rained out the day I dropped a line down it. Now it sports bolts to the 100ft line almost exactly where I envisioned it would go.
I hope you all are going to work on the second pitch as well, strait through that dihedral thing up high.
Oh well, you snooze ya loose. Can't wait to climb it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Central Pillar of Envy (5.11a)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Na, I suppose you're pretty much right on. That first pitch is crap, bolts or not. The better first pitch is to avoid it and climb Defector or whatever that route is that shares it's anchor, then keep going up past one more bolt I added that leads to the 1st pitch anchor of CPOE.
The second pitch is kind lame being the only (100ft) pitch at Table that takes pro. I mean you'd have to haul gear out there just specifically for that pitch alone. I never added anything because I went ground up on t... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Aloha Patrol (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing is 4 stars classic the whole way. It's a direct line, exposed, sustained, steep and pretty high up there. Sure, there's a bit of choss and what not, but for this wall...
It's the premier classic for the area for sure. If you come to table and only climb one route, this is the one you want without a doubt.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount St. Helena : Table Rock : Iron Curtain : Central Pillar of Envy (5.11a)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If I remember correctly the first pitch has some 5.9ish short awkward fist crack sized crack at the end of the traverse left from the 4th class gully that leads to the ledge. The better way to go is to skip the 4th class garbage pitch (unless you like that kinda dirty but cruiser adventure climbing) and climb Defector but continue past the anchors where one more protection bolt will lead you to the big ledge atop Pitch #1.
Pitch 2 only requires a couple cams from .5" to about 1.5". Double... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Left Over Bun : Smokestack (5.6)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has been called the "smokestack" for the past 40 years and is pretty much standard for 5.6 chimneys.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Sugarloaf : Big Loaf : Magik Luv Gaz (5.10b)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brandon and I bouldered that start before Jerry added the bolt to protect it for leading. We're the ones who ripped off the big flake.
Anyway, I don't remember it being anywhere near 5.10. It felt like .10b before the flake came off, then 5.11 hard after.
Must be something totally different if you're calling it .10a.
Too bad that route goes to 4th class after about 12ft of climbing.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Two In One (5.11)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Crocodile Dundee's original name is "Two in One". Because it has an easy start and a hard topout. So it feels like two routes in one.
The one to it's right that had the manky anchors is called "Two for One" because if you climb it on the left it's .10a, if you climb on the right it's .11a/b, hence you get two routes for one.
It needs chains too, in fact I'd like to talk with you and the dude who bolted the other routes about that. That place needs a lot of maintenance and I have all the hard... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills North : Auburn Cliffs : Horseshoe Canyon : Climbers Beware (5.10c X)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Then add a bolt, it's your route. There's a place for bold and spicy and Auburn ain't it.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Two In One (5.11)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, then that's two in one which now has bolts. No need to go calling it something else just because someone bolted a TR problem that has seen probably 10'000 ascents.
Two For One (the manky TR problem you mentioned) has had it's anchors replaced with nice glueins and could use some chain to keep people from TRing through the bolts and to reduce rope scars too.
I don't think that pot leaf cave route needs chains. The anchors are on a vertical wall, maybe just a couple of quick links so you c... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Middle Tier, Unknown 5.10 (5.10d)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is now called "Two for One". .10a to the left, .11a to the right.
The old anchor which has been bad for the past decade finally blew out and has been replaced by two new glue-ins. Chain and quicklinks should be added to these anchors to minimize rope scarring and discourage TRing through the glue-in anchors.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Middle Tier, Crack (5.6)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is called the "Beach Crack".
Get it? Cuz of all the sand!
It's solid 5.7.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Boy Scout Rocks : Two In One (5.11)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: 20 yards to the right??? Is this the old TR "Two in One" (.11a-ish) like 10 ft to the right or the old not so popular TR to the right of Beach Crack (Pot Leaf Cave)? Both are now bolted.
Either way, glad to see the anchor bolts are now below the rope grooves on top.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : The Rock of Ages : Old Bolt Route (5.11b)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just lead this thing today. One of the scariest routes I've ever lead. I kept thinking what dumbass bolted this thing like this and it hit me about 3/4 of the way up. Somebody just replaced some of the "aid ladder" bolts to make the "aid" safer. There are about 8 bolts in 155 ft of climbing so almost every clip you're looking at a 40 ft whipper. If you blow the third clip you'll deck from about 35 ft.
DO NOT LEAD THIS ROUTE IN IT'S CURRENT CONDITION
I'm thinking about moving some of th... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: But that #3 Camalot you CAN get in the lieback below you is totally bomber and will eliminate that runnout.
Nice exposure photo on such a great route and good job runnin it out.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now that ladies and gentlemen is some seriously fast service.
Thanks Morley!
Let me know if there's anything I can do to help.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think to be able to do that you need to send an email to one of the moderators explaining exactly how you would like the routes re-arranged. I don't think anyone else but a moderator has the ability to do it.
I would like to see the routes broken up into their respective individual formations, and then arranged in order left to right on each formation.
Example:
Pagoda
1. Blue Zenith
2. Dry December
3. The Pillar
4. Unsung War
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Saddle Boulders : The Why Traverse (V5)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You really should do something with your VV info. At very least pick the best obvious problems from each boulder and add them to this database. I'm starting to try, but I'm not 100% on exactly whats what everywhere. I'm trying to add a photo with the route so that it's easier to tell exactly where the route is. Trying to describe pinches, edges and starts on that stone is as you know, nearly impossible. Let me know if I get something wrong.
Either that or as is frequently the case out at VV b... more >>
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders : Hillcrest Boulders : Hidden Boulder : Natural Disaster (V3 R)
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has completely lost it's top out. Some pretty big boulders came off in 2010 and the rest of the loose stuff was pried off in 2011. The nature of the route has completely changed as a result and is now a solid V3. On the bright side, all the loose crap is gone and this route is now good to go.
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Location: CA : SF Bay Area : The Nut Tree Boulders
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes they are, I climbed them all last week. Just a little slick and greasy feeling that's all. Perhaps just a tad harder. There are a couple problems that are almost impossible though. Buy Me Dinner or whatever that V7ish one move wonder is pretty much is improbable now with super slicked over micro holds. And the lower traverse is next to impossible which it already was before the thick coating of paint.
All the standards are still good to go. A few people with some time to kill, some paint re... more >>
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