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Member Since: Sep 1, 2005
Last Visit: 4 days ago
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Point Rank: # 214
Total Points: 2,783
Last Year: 179
Last 30 Days: 10
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Salamanizer been climbing?










Contributions


All 1233 | Routes 190 | Areas 26 | Photos 61 | Page Improvements | Comments 188 | Posts 103 | Stars 557 | Ratings 108
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Cosumnes River Gorge : Gutenberger Wall : Trout Fishing in America (5.11a)
By: Salamanizer When: May 22, 2016

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Comments: Sure! The trick to starting the route is to wait until the water level has gone down a bit. Then it becomes painfully obvious.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Tom's Thumb : Hangnail (5.9+)
By: Salamanizer When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: I liked this route, but it felt obviously harder than Thumb One through the crux. I'd hesitate to not call it 5.10 for a move or two. Felt a little bit contrived too, but overall a fun route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 29, 2016

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Comments: No! But it's getting pretty toasty up there.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Ice House
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: That's the "Mushroom boulder". It has a couple lines on it. There are other boulders in the area. Pretty grainy rock though.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon
By: Salamanizer When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: YES! That closure will probably never be lifted. If anything, expanded on a bit.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Wagon Caves : Mavericks : Mavericks (5.11c) : ... : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Those hangers are bomber, the bolts they were installed with are generally the weak points. That one still looks to be in decent shape. People tend to be afraid of them because of the mild surface rust and they look like Leepers.

That one looks like it's taken some whips!


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Memorial Wall : Kirk Arens ArĂȘte (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 24, 2016

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Comments: Aarons a solid dude, he's not going to get upset with someone else fixing a bolt on one of his routes, nor would anyone else I have ever met who puts routes up. Just have a clue of what you're doing or ask someone to help you who does. Sounds to me like the bolt just worked itself loose and needs to be re-tightened. You should have just left it in place and hand tightened it instead of totally removing the bolt. A hand tightened bolt is better than a missing one and can be "re-tightened" by anyo... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 19, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^^
Fixed. Thanks for the spotting that error and saying something about it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, East Face : Telesis (5.11b PG13)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^^^
YIKES!!! That ones a doozy for sure.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Sugarloaf : Sugarloaf, West Face : Only the Young Die Brave (5.11c)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: Those 5/16 buttonheads can be quite deceivingly bomber. I'll usually give them some light (funking) with an old sling and hammer. If they don't budge at all, they're probably good to go. If the bolt twists or pulls out a bit,(not the hanger spinning), then it probably needs to be replaced. What usually happens with those bolts is they crack in half near the center of the split shank and appear to be solid until you give them a good tug with a funkness and hammer. Then their strength becomes appa... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Fandango (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Dec 29, 2015

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Comments: I always thought Fandango had a pretty cool top out. That weirdly textured slab followed by the awkward corner thing to an excellent (although sandy) ledge to belay from. The corner has some grass, but nothing horrible.

The worst top out at the leap is on the North Face route. Miles of rotten low angle rock, sand and lichen capped with an almost impenetrable wall of bushes and no anchor. You just burrow your way down in the bushes and hold on.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Pigeon Cliff : Comrades (5.11+)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: If Gargoyles is 5.12, then this route is easily 5.12b.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Pigeon Cliff : Camaraderie (5.11+ R)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: The gear on this route is a little sketchy until about half way up. I'll admit I was quickly getting a little over my head on this one. I would not recommend trying to lead this route unless you're fairly confident free soloing 5.11 friction. I'm not 100% sure the micro nuts that protect the tough moves above the bush would hold a fall in this rock. Maybe I'm wrong, really didn't want to test it.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Unnamed (5.10a)
By: Salamanizer When: Sep 16, 2015

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Comments: They are 3/8" rivets far as I remember. It takes the hand of god to remove those things.


Location: CA : Northeast California : Lover's Leap
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 21, 2015

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Comments: Fantastic new entry. Glad it's finally getting filled in with routes. Good job, I know it takes a lot of time to post a lot of info like this. Glad there are people like you who actually take the time to do it, and do a good job.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: Na! I just saw that the route description for North Country was not for the actual line, but for a variation that skips the first two good pitches and lands you at the beginning of the third "money pitch". Which is the last good pitch on the route before you get into all that easy ledgy stuff.
I'm not saying the variation totally sucks, but it's not North Country anymore than walking around to climb only the second half of Travelers Buttress without starting at the bottom - is climbing the rout... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : I-80 Corridor : Auburn Cliffs : Wreckage Wall : Obliteration Divine (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: ^^^^^^^^

Sounds a little like someone got spanked. It's different and requires a diverse skillset, and the bolts are right where you need them, but not where you don't.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Lover's Leap : Main Wall : North Country (5.10)
By: Salamanizer When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: The route described in this beta section is not North Country, it's a variation that skips the good climbing for easier but dirtier and less memorable climbing to avoid the mid 5.10 first pitch and short bulge on the second pitch. It does get you to the the "money" pitch all be it with much trouble, route finding and gardening, but in reality, you only actually climb one pitch on North Country.

North Country is a pretty direct line. You only traverse about 15 ft right at the top of pitch 1.


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Highway 50 Corridor : Mosquito Coast : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jun 28, 2015

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Comments: I lead Separation Anxiety several years back per recommendation by Paul Crawford. I remember it being really hard but seemed like the gear was all there. Went back and took a look at it recently and felt like the gear was pretty sparse. Wouldn't lead it again, not that I could in my current state anyway.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 16 - The Owl : Owl Roof (5.12c) : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 30, 2015

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Comments: I tried it once. I got about that far and realized there was no way...ever!
And I had big ol cams.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Lower Merced River Canyon : 10 - The Cookie Cliff : Vendetta (5.10b)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 28, 2015

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Comments: Yeah, I did that last left hand pitch several years back. I remember the gritty rock, the burrowing your way through piles of leaves and dirt and stemming on kitty litter and oak leaves to claw your way to the top. Except at that time there was a rather large oak tree precariously perched over the top you had to crawl under.

I was not laughing!

Donini mentioned doing the first accent with fond memories on Supertopo a while back. That's when I realized, "that guys loosing it!" ;)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Wheeler Gorge : Goulara (5.10c)
By: Salamanizer When: Apr 14, 2015

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Comments: All these variations show a complete lack of vision by all parties involved.
I know everyone wants to leave their mark behind, but it doesn't take too long before everything just reeks like piss. Na' mean?


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Pagoda Rock : Dry December (5.9)
By: Salamanizer When: Feb 7, 2015

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Comments: That's unfortunate. The shade from those trees was the only thing keeping the poison oak at bay and keeping your ropes out of it when throwing them down.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 21, 2015

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Comments: Sweet, sounds good. A good way to scare the shit out of the little potheads who gather in that cave too.


Location: CA : San Francisco Bay Area : Mount Diablo State Park : Pine Canyon : Comment : Photo
By: Salamanizer When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: The pocketed face up to the stoner cave has been free soloed many times. Seemed pretty easy to me. The route must continue up past the cave I assume?


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