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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact S. Neoh

Point Rank: # 1,382
Total Points: 563
Last Year: 67
Last 30 Days: 8
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










Contributions


All 1327 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 563 | Posts 425 | Stars 168 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Pulse Wall : Toy Story (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: 2 days ago

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Comments: The ground slopes a little away from the cliff so the top out is higher than first impression. For 5.9 trad at Rumney, I think Space Shuttle takes top spot, then maybe Yoda / Ryobi on gear instead of the bolts, ala Lee.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Black Mamba (5.11c)
By: S. Neoh When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I think I read somewhere (perhaps Ward's Guide) that P1 is generally taken as .11a. I would agree with that or .10d.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 13, 2016

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Comments: Thanks Ward and DQ.
You have restored one of my fave moderates by restoring the lower anchor.
After a few more runs, I now agree with Ward; .8+ to lower anchor, .9+ to the top.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Get a Grip (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Make that three who is wondering how the dihedral is not at least 5.10. We attempted the route under the watchful eye of DaveQ who later told us that the top can go as an almost arete climb rather than a dihedral. Not quite sure how that is done. Maybe that way makes it easier than staying in the dihedral.

V4/V4+ for the midway bouldery crux seems about right. I have no ape factor at 5'5".


Location: NH : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : Sundown Ledge : Main Cliff : Tits Out for the Lads (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 6, 2016

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Comments: LOL.
No disrespect to Tiff, Mark, you now have a name for your next new route at Green's. I still got to shake a full weekend free to make it out there. I've heard nothing but good things about the climbs.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Two parties claimed they climbed Dolt today. Nothing looked amiss on a walk-by.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : El Funko (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: Did not see the big stick clip around for the first bolt.
Could really use new bolts at two spots. One other bolt is a new expansion.
Could use a good scrubbing all over. A bit licheny, otherwise a fine climb. Good feet were left wanting through the cruxy section.
Probably too "sparsely bolted" to become super popular.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Prudential : Unknown (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 4, 2016

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Comments: This route deserves a name. Good climbing after the often-wet start. Very well protected with big fat glue-ins. Yeah, Lee, we guessed 5.7/5.8 for a grade too.
Funny, met Keith on our way out, forgot to ask for a name and grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Twelve Pack (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Jammit Damnit (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: LOL, when we did the route some years ago on a hot summer's day, it felt hard for the grade. The path of least resistance thru the cracky face appeared to be to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Waited in line to repeat this after sole previous encounter 20 years ago. Glad I did. Three stars after initial insecure boulder problem start. Quite technical for the grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Red Sea Pedestrian (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Dry again today so I repeated it after exactly six years away. Interesting mid section with delightful, mellow finish. Still 2.5 starts from me but felt .10c.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Den; the extension increases difficulty at the expense of quality. Expect sharp, spiney holds and awkward climbing (easier if you are small like me) to gain the finishing ledge. Now 5.9+ and one fewer star compared to before, IMHO.
P.S. If you use a short draw on the newly added (and last Wave Bolt) bolt, you likely will not hit the ledge if you have an alert and solid belayer, should you blow the finishing sequence.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: We tried to lower the leader all the way to the ground after he linked both pitches to the top. Alas, was not able to make it with a 70 m rope; about 30 feet short. Pulling the rope after (with all the drag) was much harder than climbing the route itself!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Lies and Propaganda (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: No line when we walked by today so could not resist getting on it again after 15+ years not touching it. The polished start was the crux for me today. The climbing above was not as sharp as I remembered. The overhang near the end is fun but not as exciting as the original "go around the arĂȘte at about 2/3 height, and slab it up to the top" finish. That finish is no longer protected with fixed gear. BITD, the slab felt more insecure than the crimps down low. The first and second times I le... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Model Citizen (5.6)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Really enjoyable route. Many thanks to Chris and Team Tough. Oh yeah, they are back with a vengeance!
With rope stretch, and an untrimmed 70m rope, I was BARELY able to be lowered all the way to the ground from the second set of anchors after leading up the route. Both ends of the rope were knotted. If you want to do the same, you will want to knot your rope too as there was LESS THAN TWO FEET Of rope left after I touched down, even with rope stretch.
To minimize rope drag, consider back clea... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Toady Dreams (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: I climbed the route straight up between bolt #3 and #6 today. Found all the right holds. .10c right on the money IMHO.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Left El Diego (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Nick, after you clip the second bolt, feel left to find a HUGE jug just over the lip of the overhang. Step right foot high, reach to almost the back of the first ledge to find a nice incut for your right hand. Knee(s) not required. :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Chinese Water Torture (5.10)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Just curious, anyone climbed this route recently? Is it dry (enough)?
Bring along a brush? Thanks again Mark.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 25, 2015

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Comments: ^^^
Start with this -
redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/...


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: I agree, it is not impossible for shorties; just need good (right) foot work, core tension, and a bit of a stretch/pop. It also really helps to have the pro RIGHT THERE. A bit shoulder-y for the grade.


Location: Asia : Myanmar : Mandalay : Waterfall Hill (Yaedagon Ta... : Saya Steve Wall
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: Is "Saya Steve" meant to mean "I am Steve" or "My name is Steve"?
Looks good!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The G-Spot : Drillin' in My Dreams (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Well, Nick, congrats are def in order then! Nice.
Ha-ha, no worries. In this kind of situation, I will try to get one of my peeps to take the bait and go for the onsight. First, I will sponge his/her Beta, then have them clean and tick all the key holds on the way down. Draws pre-hung and all that. Sleazy but I need to maximize the little true talent that I have. Otherwise .......


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : The Thang (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Mark. Good to know. I like to do this little adventure next year. I will bring along two steel bines to leave on The Thang. I assume there are leaver draws or just aluminum biners up there now.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : The Thang (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: "Access the route by climbing rock du jours 1st pitch but breaking left to an anchor on the big ledge"
How hard is this mini pitch? How's the protection? Most of the "Gold" climbs kick my ass :). I like to get a closer look at the carnage from years ago. And maybe even do this mini route what is left of The Thang.


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