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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Jolt (5.10b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 58 mins ago | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW! It looks like a giant took a cleaver to the top flake and knocked it right off! What is keeping that tree up there? Is it going to come down next?
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 14 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Ha-ha, I was just thinking the same thing! But I think they might be a little worn from all the lowering and possibly TR'ing. I seem to recall telling myself that when I lowered off them last year (or so). That said, worth checking out for the inclined.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Monsters from the Id : Abominable Snowman (5.11b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure but this might be AndreaB from MA.
I did not like this climb! And it looks like someone took the biner I left so that the last climber can lower off on two bolts. People, get a clue!
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: And maybe post temporary warning signs at trail heads (small parking lot, "Pole 38", etc).
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Hinterlands
By: S. Neoh When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks, Matthew.
End of an iconic climb. Sad. I am glad to have done Jolt when it was a scary mixed route and, more recently, a clip-up.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: May 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mark, I was with Dim and OM. None of us thought the block was detached! Honestly, I was more concerned about breaking off parts of the flakes at the start of Finland.
Chances are we will be curious enough to give the new start a try the next time we are in the neighborhood.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: May 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whoa, the thing appeared solid when we did the route three weeks ago. Was the fallen down tree at the start of the route also got pushed downhill?
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Location: NH : Rumney
By: S. Neoh When: May 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Phil, I, for one, applaud your willingness to switch out manky aluminum biners for steel ones. On high traffic'ed route, I believe the move from al to steel is the right way to go as long as we are going to let the fixed draws remain on the route.
I have climbed many of the moderate, most popular routes this Spring and I have yet to see anything too worn at the top anchors. Granted I have not been on Masterpiece this year yet.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Boats from Cuba (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: In its current form, is there a move where you have three or four points of contact on a BIG detached block? This climb was scary before MF was cleaned and bolted.
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Location: NH : Owl's Cliff (off Kancamagu... : The Left Cliff : White Owl Face and Laughing... : Aquarium (5.8) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, I know her!
She's traded in those pink shoes for fancier blue velcro ones though.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Sweet Polly Purebred (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Both anchors seem fine today.
Such a fine route. Good amount of exposure just after the crux and before the comfy ledge. The slab above was surprisingly technical for me with some holds "facing the wrong way". Nicely bolted, to be expected for a Smitty route.
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Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Retrospade (5.11c/d)
By: S. Neoh When: May 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA'ist was told today that the nut is no longer there.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : RhinoBuckets (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: May 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an anchor clipping jug at the very top of this climb, higher than the anchors, and about 18 inches to the right. I did not find any of the moves particularly awkward. The start is tricky when wet which is often the case in the Spring and Summer.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Boundary Rock
By: S. Neoh When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This micro crag is mostly "lichened" over as of April 2013. A shame.
More power to Mike for climbing one of its 2 routes just days ago.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The North West Territories : B-b-buttress (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK, we warmed up on this route today. Nice. Felt a bit harder than Air and Present Danger. And throw in a bit of Jolt. I did not right away think it is the best .9 at Rumney. Sorry!!
The first bolt in the inside corner leading to the finish is too low to protect much especially if you clip a 2-foot sling to it, as recommended in the guide book.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Stoned Temple Pilot (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally got on this route today. Wow. Way more technical than your typical steep RRG route. The crux was not where I thought it would be. I think Mark's Beta above is good. I got to find the knee bar rest down low. First try felt .12a to me with the crux after the last, big undercling.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Finland (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very good route. Crux is short. Upper corner is really nice.
To me, this is one of the top 3 .11a at Rumney.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Nice Land (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recommend stick clipping 1st and 2nd bolt. The start felt harder than the crux on Finland to me. It is probably .11a or harder for anyone 5'5" or shorter.
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Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Swedish Girls (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Deceptively tough albeit short crux. I think .10d is right especially when there was no chalk on any of the holds around the crux.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Orangahang (5.12a/b)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thank you, Andrea, and a big CONGRATS on your send today.
Yank the Mank. I expect I will be on this route this year and will do my share of maintenance.
To all, if possible, replace aluminum biners with steel ones as the latter takes longer to wear down. Steel biners are about $10 each and they are not as nice to clip but I think on this route they ought to be standard equipment given the traffic it receives.
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Location: WV : New River Gorge : North Side : Beauty Mountain : The Brain : Chunky Munky (5.12b)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I too believe the name is Chunky Monkey. Also mentioned here - www.newriverclimbing.net/re-bolting-program
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Clusterphobia (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: For most people, significantly harder. For me (a shortie), the crux of this route requires a good deal of core strength and precise footwork.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Rock Du Jours Direct (5.9+)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Spot on, Mark, about this being a really good and fun 5.9 at Rumney.
Sorry I did not know you were at A&D and Main Cliff yesterday. I would have headed over to say "hi" and climb with you.
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Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : The Maltese Falcon (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: They are not so bad, Mark; they are dark grey glue-ins and not bright SS hangers. A good confidence building route for those just starting out. You still remember those days, Mark?
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Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Junco (5.8+)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am with Lee, I cannot think where on the route proper (link up excepted) might be two "huge" loose flakes!
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