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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact S. Neoh

Point Rank: # 1,385
Total Points: 557
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 6
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










Contributions


All 1319 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 557 | Posts 425 | Stars 166 | Ratings 171
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Twelve Pack (5.10d)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 12, 2016

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Comments: I have done Dirty Dozen a number of times but never this route. Thanks for the tip about bring an extra cam/nut for the runout section. High on my Rumney to-do list this Fall.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Center : Jammit Damnit (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: LOL, when we did the route some years ago on a hot summer's day, it felt hard for the grade. The path of least resistance thru the cracky face appeared to be to the left of the bolt line if I remember correctly.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Trigger Happy (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Waited in line to repeat this after sole previous encounter 20 years ago. Glad I did. Three stars after initial insecure boulder problem start. Quite technical for the grade.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Parking Lot Wall : Red Sea Pedestrian (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Dry again today so I repeated it after exactly six years away. Interesting mid section with delightful, mellow finish. Still 2.5 starts from me but felt .10c.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Hippos on Parade (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: I agree with Den; the extension increases difficulty at the expense of quality. Expect sharp, spiney holds and awkward climbing (easier if you are small like me) to gain the finishing ledge. Now 5.9+ and one fewer star compared to before, IMHO.
P.S. If you use a short draw on the newly added (and last Wave Bolt) bolt, you likely will not hit the ledge if you have an alert and solid belayer, should you blow the finishing sequence.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Crowd Pleaser (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 31, 2016

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Comments: We tried to lower the leader all the way to the ground after he linked both pitches to the top. Alas, was not able to make it with a 70 m rope; about 30 feet short. Pulling the rope after (with all the drag) was much harder than climbing the route itself!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Lies and Propaganda (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: No line when we walked by today so could not resist getting on it again after 15+ years not touching it. The polished start was the crux for me today. The climbing above was not as sharp as I remembered. The overhang near the end is fun but not as exciting as the original "go around the arĂȘte at about 2/3 height, and slab it up to the top" finish. That finish is no longer protected with fixed gear. BITD, the slab felt more insecure than the crimps down low. The first and second times I le... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Model Citizen (5.6)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: Really enjoyable route. Many thanks to Chris and Team Tough. Oh yeah, they are back with a vengeance!
With rope stretch, and an untrimmed 70m rope, I was BARELY able to be lowered all the way to the ground from the second set of anchors after leading up the route. Both ends of the rope were knotted. If you want to do the same, you will want to knot your rope too as there was LESS THAN TWO FEET Of rope left after I touched down, even with rope stretch.
To minimize rope drag, consider back clea... more >>


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff Right : Toady Dreams (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: I climbed the route straight up between bolt #3 and #6 today. Found all the right holds. .10c right on the money IMHO.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Triple Corners : Triple Corners Right : Left El Diego (5.9)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: Nick, after you clip the second bolt, feel left to find a HUGE jug just over the lip of the overhang. Step right foot high, reach to almost the back of the first ledge to find a nice incut for your right hand. Knee(s) not required. :)


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Chinese Water Torture (5.10)
By: S. Neoh When: Apr 16, 2016

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Comments: Just curious, anyone climbed this route recently? Is it dry (enough)?
Bring along a brush? Thanks again Mark.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 25, 2015

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Comments: ^^^
Start with this -
redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide/...


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : Little Big Man (5.11b) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Dec 21, 2015

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Comments: I agree, it is not impossible for shorties; just need good (right) foot work, core tension, and a bit of a stretch/pop. It also really helps to have the pro RIGHT THERE. A bit shoulder-y for the grade.


Location: Asia : Myanmar : Mandalay : Waterfall Hill (Yaedagon Ta... : Saya Steve Wall
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 24, 2015

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Comments: Is "Saya Steve" meant to mean "I am Steve" or "My name is Steve"?
Looks good!


Location: NH : *Rumney : The G-Spot : Drillin' in My Dreams (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Well, Nick, congrats are def in order then! Nice.
Ha-ha, no worries. In this kind of situation, I will try to get one of my peeps to take the bait and go for the onsight. First, I will sponge his/her Beta, then have them clean and tick all the key holds on the way down. Draws pre-hung and all that. Sleazy but I need to maximize the little true talent that I have. Otherwise .......


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : The Thang (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Mark. Good to know. I like to do this little adventure next year. I will bring along two steel bines to leave on The Thang. I assume there are leaver draws or just aluminum biners up there now.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Main Cliff : The Thang (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: "Access the route by climbing rock du jours 1st pitch but breaking left to an anchor on the big ledge"
How hard is this mini pitch? How's the protection? Most of the "Gold" climbs kick my ass :). I like to get a closer look at the carnage from years ago. And maybe even do this mini route what is left of The Thang.


Location: NH : *Rumney : The G-Spot : Drillin' in My Dreams (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 22, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the update, Nick. Glad you are still making it outdoors! We skipped this climb the last time we were @ G cause bolting at the top looked kinda of sparse given how small the holds looked from the ground. I am going to assume it is .11b and give it a go in 2016.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley : The Great Wall : Dynabolt Gold (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: The direct start, w/o a stick clip is .10- up to about 5 feet off the ground. It is .9/.9+ the rest of the way to the anchor. By direct start I mean use the obvious sidepull/undercling on the right, about four feet off the ground, and go more or less straight up for a couple more feet until you gain good hand holds. From there, traverse left with feet on the ledge, then climb around the bulge on its left to clip the 1st bolt. I am 5'5" and have zero ape index and this way felt .10-.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Chinese Water Torture (5.10) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 12, 2015

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Comments: Wow. Look at that! "Out there" exposure. Nice. So many routes, so little time!


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : The Gallery : The King Lives On (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 10, 2015

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Comments: One of the best routes I did during my 2011 or 2012 trip to RRG. If memory serves, there is a good rest somewhere in the top 1/4 of the route. The finish is pumpy and a little tricky but the hand and foot holds (for this climb to go at low 5.10) are all there. Seems bolted safe enough.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Orange Crush : Chinese Water Torture (5.10) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 6, 2015

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Comments: That would be fabulous, Mark. I thank you now!! I have always wanted to check out the rock above the modern OC and Citrasolve. Post up before and after pics if you can.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bourbon Street (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 5, 2015

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Comments: I have to admit there is something "sexy" and satisfying about linking pitches. I did a bunch of that at The Gunks in '95 and '96 right after I got my (then unusual) 60m Mammut. For Rumney, I have only done Bullwinkle Goes Ballistic into Air and Present Danger (not recommended). Not P1&P2 of Trop, nor Black Mamba in one go. Certainly A&D and the Main Cliff are rife with possibilities!!


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bourbon Street (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: Not sure. Sorry if I had implied it can be done in one long pitch with a 60 or 70m rope. In principle, with a long enough rope, long slings and maybe some back cleaning certainly LOOKS possible. I have only done it in two pitches.


Location: NH : *Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bourbon Street (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Nov 3, 2015

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Comments: Having done BS as second pitch to Big Easy or the other moderate nearby, I can't say I agree. Though not quite as easy to do it in one pitch, but much more moderate than Steel Curtain, I think Charity Case to Stairway To Heaven is quite nice. I have to admit I have yet to try Cow Patty to Bridge To Nowhere combo which I believe is shorter than 200 ft anyways. Time to buy that 120m rope!


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