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Member Since: Oct 4, 2009
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact S. Neoh


Point Rank: # 1,270
Total Points: 491
Last Year: 58
Last 30 Days: 11
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has S. Neoh been climbing?










Contributions


All 1030 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 491 | Posts 256 | Stars 142 | Ratings 141
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: Rhode Island : Lincoln Woods : Ship's Prow : Bottle of Rum (V3)
By: S. Neoh When: 5 days ago

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Comments: Is the start of this problem almost immediately left of the start of The Low Traverse? If so, it is a pretty good problem. Top out looks hard form the ground but it is not, just a bit high.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Finland (5.11a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: This route is near the top of my list for a redpoint! Grr.
No, Nick, I did not find a knee bar below the ledge on this one.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Prudential : Nice Land (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: Nick, I was able to do some contortions (and stemming?) to make the moves near the top. The moves below the second bolt are/were darn hard for me. I do not know how to climb the first 12 feet or so at .10a.


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress : Cow Patty (5.10a)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: Nick, sorry to hear about your epic. Did you try to approach YK from The Hinterlands? I've always gone via Prudential. Not too difficult to find from the Pru (which I in turn approach from NW Territories).
Others might have better suggestions for approaches. I tend to go with what I know (and not be too adventurous).


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 10, 2014

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Comments: When Jolt and Dolt were still "up", Hinterlands can be crazily busy. I went up there once after Jolt came down and we had everything but Giant Man to ourselves, on a nice weekend to boot! In fact, the Pru was busier. I bet YK was empty or practically empty that day.


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: I dunno, Eric. Nanook and Alaskan Arches sound more appealing to me. :)
There is so much to do up in this neck of the woods. Just amazing.


Location: NH : Rumney : Yellow Knife Buttress
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 8, 2014

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Comments: First, I have to admit I've not climbed the .11 routes here. I've only been on the .10 routes. They are all OK to quite good, though I thought after a couple, the moves became a little repetitive and I developed sore tips from small holds on mostly less-than-vertical rock. Length of the routes here is a definite plus but I would not go so far as to say "perfect rock", even when the routes are clean.
No question, YK a worthwhile destination!


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mentally Disturbed (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: I've thought Wave Bolts are great as soon as I read an article on them about a year ago. Glad RCA decided to "stock them". Now all we need is a version that has a matte or camo finish instead of shiny and bright.
Oh, the two new glue-ins on Sky Pilot are also Wave Bolts.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Asbury Park (5.7)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 29, 2014

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Comments: The spring-loaded gate on both quick clips at the anchor are no longer sprung to close. Be careful when lowering. And, as always, top-rope through your own draws to minimize wear on the anchors.
I will alert the RCA as well about the broken spring action on these quickies.


Location: NH : Rumney : 5.8 Crag : Sky Pilot (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: I led this today with only three "original" bolts and the two new glue-ins. Certainly safe enough but felt quite different to me not having to place gear and clip the two old pins (which are now gone by the way). The runout from the last glue-in to the anchors is significant but on easy ground. There is gear possibility in between to eliminate this runout.

Edit: Thanks to RCA for providing the glue-in's and the Bolt Elf (you know who you are!) for putting them in! This route should get Qu... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Mentally Disturbed (5.8)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 28, 2014

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Comments: More interesting and harder than it looks from the ground. Worthy addition. Pretty good climb, 1.5 stars from me.


Location: NH : Rumney : Main Cliff : Simon Bar Sinister (5.12b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 22, 2014

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Comments: LOL. I resemble that remark!
I never pass up a chance getting taller and stronger climbers to pre-hang draws for my weak sauce ascents.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Sojourner Truth (5.11b)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Where is this route situated relative to Slick (and 9 mm) and Breakfast Burrito?
Thanks.


Location: NH : Rumney : Jimmy Cliff : Curl Up and Fly (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Sep 1, 2014

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Comments: Feels hard (well, maybe not quite .12a hard) to shorties like Chris and I. Certainly not as technical as Vallee Daze or even Weevil. Good route for those who have "pop" in their legs and shoulder.


Location: NH : Hounds Hump Ridge (Eaglet e... : The Eaglet : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Nice photo, Ming. Great setting.
Fantastic that you are getting out to remarkable places.


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Black Dog Crack (5.10b)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 26, 2014

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Comments: Nick, you are right; there aren't a lot of buckets on this climb. I like the route and it is a great way to set TR up for the really good Vallee Daze.


Location: NH : Rumney : Armed and Dangerous Area (M... : Bonnie and Clyde (5.8+)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 24, 2014

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Comments: Finally got on this one today.
It was a tough and insecure start with the right wall wet.
We led it with the rope pre clipped thru the first draw.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Tropicana (5.11a) : Photo
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 18, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, it is really fine and fun. Hard off the belay anchors and exposed, airy finish which requires one to "keep it together". Real gem of a pitch!


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Salley's Alley (5.11c)
By: S. Neoh When: Aug 14, 2014

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Comments: Nah, Nick and Eric, it was more like I was cocky and knew a lot less than I do now. TomA basically gave me the Beta for every move and I rehearsed the route quite a bit (thanks to his infinite patience) before redpointing it in '94 or '95.
I tried to repeat the route a number of years back and fell off at the bulge. It felt HARD! I guess I have forgotten most of the Beta and not nearly in the shape I need to be.
At the same crag, I enjoyed Valle Daze and Retro Spade a lot even tho I never red... more >>


Location: NH : Rumney : New Wave : Weevil Knevil (5.12a)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 20, 2014

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Comments: Agreed. I am 5'5" and I make the reach readily with the left hand undercling and a high right foot. The end is the business IMHO.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: You're too funny Ming! Wonderful to see you, your lovely wife, and adorable baby on Sat!! Everyone seems happy and enjoying life. Fantastic.
We traversed in from the right to end the climb just below the anchors, not unlike what I do on Rhinobucket (but that seems harder). I do not believe I grabbed anything that was loose or flexy. Eric and OM did not mention anything either.
Definitely not as hard as No Money Down or the roof of Bonehead Roof.



Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jul 12, 2014

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Comments: I climbed the bolted version today in spite of constant traffic on it most of the day. Nice climb. Will get better with traffic and the top cleans up (after the last bolt). The start was bone dry, pretty cool to be able to start the climb from the trail rather than the block for Rhinobucket.
Great bolt job!
I thought the difficulty is about the same as for Rhinobucket. A bunch of others thought the same too. We all were on it for the first time, on lead.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : In the Light (5.10)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 17, 2014

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Comments: If memory serves, the good holds on this route are a little hard to find with lots of side pulls and underclings. A combination of tech and pump. Good endurance would serve you well here. Significantly harder than .10a, I feel .10c is a fair grade. Not that much easier than Fuzzy. Great route, but not so good as first warmup of the day.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Exactly what Mark said. I think final call rests with Alan in this case.
Just to be clear, I am not for putting in a bolt below the crack on Retrospade (besides Tom is against it the last time we spoke). And I am for leaving Sky Pilot as is (perhaps 1 to 3 pieces after the 3rd bolt), since the gear is good and straightforward.


Location: NH : Rumney : The Meadows : Center Section : Misdemeanor (5.10c)
By: S. Neoh When: Jun 4, 2014

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Comments: Cool. Anything to keep it cleaner. Good climbing but looked dirty for the past 10 years or so. Putting in a new, drier start would be great.
Can't wait to check it out.


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