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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Illusions (5.10b)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Oct 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has a few variations, going up to the left or right from the bolts.
For a really fun route go up to the left and through the chimney to another set of chains. It's high, but you can still top-rope or lower to the ground with a 60m rope. Probably rates a 10c or so.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Begging For Bolts (5.11a)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is great, and long. With a 70m rope both ends were barely on the ground when through the anchors.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Community Effort (5.10a)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Aug 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Key hold my foot, it's a 5.9 at best.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Mile 385 area (mile markers...
By: Ryan Peterson When: Aug 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I believe this is now at 472.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Cushions (5.10b/c)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Aug 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh, and if you're one of the people constantly covering the crimp at the top in chalk, please stop. I know you like to have tick marks so you know where to go, but you don't need to fill your hand and completely cover 6 inches around the hold.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Logan Canyon : Fucoidal Quartzite : Cannonball (5.10c)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Aug 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, careful at the start though, first bolt is pretty high up, don't lead if it's at your limit.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Storm Mountain Picnic Area : Storm Mountain Island : Layback Crack (5.5)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jul 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first all-gear climb, plenty of spots for gear and resting, and quite fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Touch of Teflon (5.10d)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't feel too difficult to me, but then, I only TRed it. Quite a few fun variations, you can start below to the left or right of the bolt, and head left or right above it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Narcolepsy (5.8 R)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Possible to get a gray (blue?) TCU in before the first bolt, and an Orange in where the second was. At least if you're a paranoid leader like I am.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Dreamscape (5.9+)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jul 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolt position seemed fine to me. Great climb to practice footwork, I only had to pull once the entire climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Narcolepsy Area : Dream Slate (5.10a)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this one twice today, once going left and once staying right. The right path at the top is much more fun, with two really great moves. The left path is just easy climbing and skipping the last bolt to get the chains, but no fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : North and West Faces : Winky and Waxman Go Bolting (5.11b)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't seem too tough to me, third bolt is a spinner though, and I used that loose rock for a hold and it seemed fine.
Lost it at the top my first try, but mantled the second try and made it up. That mantle at the top makes it all worth it, great climb.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Millstone : Intelligient Life Form (5.8)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very fun climb, positive holds and fun feet if you can move around. The slant kind of screws with your head, but just adds to the fun.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This place gets busy fast. We showed up at 8:30 and had it to ourselves today (saturday), but at 9:30 there were suddenly 20 people toproping.
River was low enough to walk across, but couldn't do any of the middle routes without a silly little traverse and a horrible belay position. Was kinda fun though.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : On the Skids (5.8)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this today, was barely out of the water. We showed up around 8:30 and didn't have another group come until 9:30, but then there were 20 people top-roping the area.
Climbing to the first two bolts is the hard part, after you're on the ledge it's much better. Just have to trust your feet not to slide right off the polished rock.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Dogwood Crag : A Modest Man from Mandrake (5.9)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this today and loved it, didn't feel like a 5.9 until the second roof.
Fourth and fifth bolts are still missing though, if you fall before that final roof you'll probably hit the ground. You can go right and clip the two bolts on the other route with long runners, but I chose to just go left and climb, it was an easy section, but scared the Hell out of me when I was perched on the ledge trying to clip that last bolt.
Much easier to just rappel from the chains rather than walk all the ... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: 8th bolt seemed to be missing, so there was a pretty long run-out between 7 and 9. Anchors at the top were pretty at least.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Delta Y (5.10a)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 16, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Second bolt is still a spinner. Fun climb otherwise.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Gotta Be Tall Or Else You'l... (5.9)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 13, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm 5'7 and had no problem ^_^
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Salem's Lot (5.10c)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb is covered in bat guano. At least 4 huge piles on the way up.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Thieving Magpie (5.7)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed today (June 9), bolt is still a spinner, but the crux is below it, so it's easy climbing once you're to it.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips : Witchhunt (5.10a)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was easy as anything on the other side of the wall. Awkward bolting positions though, bring a few long runners
Can't say it felt harder than a 5.8
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Salt Lake Slips
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It comes and goes. Please avoid it if it shows up and tell others not to put them up, it's dangerous and illegal, try to get more people using the path from Storm Mountain. It's a nice little hike.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Unknown West of One with th... (5.7)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still there, still no hanger on the top bolt. Judging from the first two bolts it would make a great first time lead climb if it were finished.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Motley Cruise (5.9)
By: Ryan Peterson When: Jun 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route feels like you should go over to the right and walk up to the bolts at the top, but then you find two bomber hidden little holds and the anchors are no problem.
Like they said, just smear up a few inches at a time if you're stuck, it'll come.
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