Contributed Comments |
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Random Route Developer,
I witnessed I person rip one of your bolts from the wall. Please note that we use half inch by five in bolts at the RC. 3/8 is OK when you have a proper slate of stone to drill into. Unfortunately, there is no decent stone on your route, therefore you will need to retro with larger bolts/ better placements. If you feel that your route is potentially dangerous, please make it known to the public and we will stay away.
Side note:
The Longboard Project will have a new... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alan, I am honored that you responded to my post. Thank you for clearing that up.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Boxcar (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A substantial amount of rock was removed from the lip of this route. The rock in question was beyond reinforcement. I have rerouted the line to the left exiting through the pod. I have completed all of the moves through this "new" section and now feel that the route is a bit easier(~13c). This route is still an open project. However, it needs a bit more work to preparing for a free attempt. There is a key hold just before the pod which absolutely needs to be glued. There still is not an anchor. ... more >>
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Warm Up (5.12b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 12b grade reflects the difficulty to the 2nd anchor.
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Location: CO : Merry Christmas, Happy Hanu...
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happy Festivus!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Butt Bongo Fiesta (5.13a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love it!
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a great photo of this route. Makes me wanna revisit it.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Dorkboat (5.12d)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this line should get bumped. As many of the holds have broken, creating another crux about 2/3 the way up. Still fun, but much harder. I redpointed this and Held down to the top and felt that Dorkboat was harder. Perhaps 13a?
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: Ryan Palo When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maple in July? Too hot? I was there at the end of last June. The temps outside the canyon were in the 90s-low 100s. Inside the canyon was quite nice in the shade. Can I expect the same?
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : Full Service (V10)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW, what a great description of this line! I'm really glad someone took this much time to write a full and through description. WELL DONE!
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: New line going in left of Horizontal. Expect steep and fun.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : TuffNerd (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We keep finding kneebars on this rig. Two so far. We'll see if it affects the grade
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Horizontal Delite (5.13b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a 6 bolt extension on this line to the top of the headwall. This is an open project and will be roughly 13b. Extension prep by RP PS, kR.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Cool Ranch Flavor (5.11a/b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A five bolt extension was recently added. The rock quality improves dramatically from the first anchor. Move through a broken double arete system to the second set of anchors.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two new lines are on their way up. One in between pissfire and the warm up. The other to the left of Tuffnerd.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove CG : Short Wall : Belay Girl (5.10c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gota say this was the most sandbagged route I've climbed at Josh. And I come from an area full of nar nar slabs. With that said, I found this route to be one of the best on the short wall.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : The Backbone (5.13a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading this description, I've decided to put The Backbone first on my list. Next trip to Smith and it's on!
Thanks for posting this route!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 13, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: That is just awesome!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome. New desktop background
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Dreamin' (5.12a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 20, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: PG13 Perhaps. If this route wasn't so dam scary to us low 12 climbers, it would see heaps of traffic. Either way, great movement on excellent rock, and superior position.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Christian Brothers : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 18, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks bomber to me
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 6, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: 6 in left of the 2nd bolt? You stuck a deadpoint to the horn?
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Oct 30, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rumor has it that the key dishes on the right face are drilled. I'm trying to find out if this is true.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Oct 23, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wish I hadn't pussed out when it came time for me to do this. Great action shot Pete.
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Location: OR : Carver : Carver Cliff : Ivy League Buttress : Challenger (5.11c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Oct 14, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: We both got it wrong. Its the furthest bolt line on the right
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