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Location: General Climbing : Questionable Belay Techniqu... : Photo
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do they realize that the GriGri is threaded backwards?
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Location: AZ : Paradise Forks : The Prow : The Prow (5.11a)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think reading this page would have blown your onsight too.
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Location: International : Thailand
By: Ryan Kelly When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well, now I'm 5 months in and nothing serious to name yet - other than Dengue but I hardly think that's relevant to the stomach issue. And I pretty much only eat from street vendors. Fruits, ice, water, you name it. Damn, I know Karma is going to get me for this post.
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Location: International : Thailand
By: Ryan Kelly When: Jun 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was at Railay for two and a half weeks, almost two years to today... neither I nor my gf had any GI issues, and we ate the leafy vegetables, drank the iced drinks, and generally ignored that which you shouldn't do. I agree with the OPs issue against the decadence of Krabi, but I think the comments about sickness are unfounded. If you drank the water out of the tap, well then, I can't really see how'd you be surprised. Last I was there a 1.5 liter bottle of water cost less than a buck. It w... more >>
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : Castle Crag : Swinging (5.9)
By: Ryan Kelly When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The most over-rated climb at Araps. Probably my least memorable from the trip.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Atridae : Agamemnon (5.5 PG13)
By: Ryan Kelly When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know about any heal hooks, and I don't really have any idea about the grading either - so different from any type of climbing I've done. Regardless, great fun, great views, and great photo op. A must do if at Araps.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : Declaration Crag : Little Thor (5.10)
By: Ryan Kelly When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps 'decent gear' would be better. There's a couple of flared slippery things in there, and it has a reputation for spitting a lot of it out.
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Location: International : Australia : Mount Arapiles : The Watchtower Faces : Watchtower Crack (5.8+)
By: Ryan Kelly When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great classic route, but was a bit of a letdown for me because of the large amount of hype about it. Certainly a striking line, one of the most noticable at Araps.
It's not hard for the grade, it'd be 5.7 at most traditional granite areas, and you most certainly don't need a huge rack of big gear. One #4 Camalot is plenty, and if you're solid at the grade you should be able to do three moves above a bolt and not need anything bigger than a #1.
I would link the first two pitches as... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Pat Adams Dihedral (5.11b)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Mar 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I though Hot Rocks was getting renamed The Murf Rejector?
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : Sister Superior Group : Jah Man (5.10) : Photo
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You really should post up a bigger version of this pic
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : IRS Wall : Alf's Arete (5.11a)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I tells ya... these damn kids nowadays, with their fancy jobs in the oil fields, rap-bolting kits and sewn runners. They got no spirit!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Steve Canyon : The Decompensator of Lhasa (5.10c/d) : Photo
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's a great shot. Personally, I think it'd look better if the crop put the climber more in the lower right and gave more negative space to the near-featureless rock in the upper part of the picture. Regardless, nice shot.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Foolproof Tower : Buford's House of Liver (5.11a)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: .9+ sounds about right.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Gateway Rock : Semi Tough (5.10d)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like everyone else who commented, I thought it was cruiser 5.10 climbing that had me wishing it was longer the whole time... all except for the part where I got beat down, hanging on gear, crying for my mommy.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Labor Dome : A Woman's Work is Never Don... (5.10c)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kris, I just can't comprehend how you could compare this to Decompensator of Lhasa. Short, near-perfect finger crack with one layback move onto an easy face vs. extended head-down ass-out climbing on friction and nearly non-existent hold remnants.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : The Hot Tub : Hot Tubs From Hell (5.8)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Feb 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I went straight up from the starting dihedral into the obvious (and better) upper dihedral. Looked much less interesting moving right as shown in the picture here. Still, not a very worthwhile route.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Button Soup (5.2 R)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not even worth the solo tic.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks : Right Peyote Crack (5.8)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The fist sized crack is very low angle and more 4th class. Unless 5.8 is around your limit I wouldn't bother dragging along those pieces. A couple mediums and a finger-sized piece for the top will be fine. Leave the stoppers on the ground.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Grain Dance (5.10d)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Caughtinside: "Probably .10c josh face, maybe .10d, and likely .11a at a lot of areas..."
So... 10b then?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Gunks West (5.10b)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 24, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route as described (starting off the boulder) consists of all of 5 feet of climbing. You might as well start from the ground and climb the 'chimney' between the boulder and the main wall and triple the route length.
Concerning the gear beta: A single sling. Optional 4” for the chimney, and option single medium piece (green or red Camalot) for after the friction, it’s 4th class after that. Rap station at top.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Virgin Islands Area : Star Wars Rock : Between a Rock and a Hard P... (5.10b)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Well I'm impressed, just looking at this thing made me hurt. 10b? Guess you can label me just another gym climber.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Children's Crag : Peaches (5.5)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There currently (Nov 08) is not an anchor there. The downclimb was a bit of work but we certainly didn't have to do any 'solid 5th class' moves to get down.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Outhouse Wall : Karate Crack (5.9+)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Nov 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: There's a splitter vertical crack on the back wall that you can easily build an anchor from. C3s to 0.5 Camalots, and/or nuts.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Jumbo Rocks : Zebra Cliffs : Zebra Cliffs East Face : Cut Thin To Win (5.10c)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sounds like the same one we ran into at the base the week prior. It was definitely a rattler, as I almost stepped on him after backing away from a baby we ran into on the left side of the route. The beige one was quite large.
More interesting, is that Murf recommended this climb to us as well, insisting that we go check it out. Coincidence? Unlikely.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Ellsmere Island : Baby Roof (5.7)
By: Ryan Kelly When: Oct 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't see how this got two stars, it's 1 move. The downclimb is more difficult, and takes 3 times longer, then walking up the route. There are plenty of starred 5.7s at Jtree that are still interesting if that grade is easy for you, this is not one of them.
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