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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : 2nd Alcove : Quoia the Destroya (5.9)
By: Ryan Curry When: Nov 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I brought both a #5 and #6 Camalot when I led this. I did place the #6 at the exposed section at the base of the left-leaning crack, but determined that, for me, I wouldn't haul up the big stuff again as there are other gear options to be had.
Also, there is some looseness up high after the bulge, but once again it is easily avoided and will probably be cleaned up after a few ascents. Just take care and use common sense.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : One Of These Days Buttress : One Of These Days (5.10b/c)
By: Ryan Curry When: Sep 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: THE BEST 5.10 crack in the Tahoe area. A must do for the 5.10 leader. Take care in lowering from the chains even with a 70 meter rope, it's close.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : The Fortress : Sun Wall Left (5.10c)
By: Ryan Curry When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first ascent of this classy pitch, as well as the 5.10b just right of it, were made by Jay Smith and friends in the '80's. Both are pretty stiff at their respective grades.
One of my favorite climbs on the Sun Wall is a long 5.10a chimney on the far right side of the cliff. A little run-out, it offers chimney to hands on impeccable stone and is super classic.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : Books Area : 5.8 Hand Crack (5.8)
By: Ryan Curry When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a really fun pitch. A lot of variety and continuity, it has a Joshua Tree-like feel to it. Save hands-sized gear for the anchor. Also, a #4 Camalot is nice to have near the top.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Woodfords Canyon : 2nd Alcove : I Be Jammin' (5.9)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It might be splitting hairs but I think it may be more accurate to call it 5.10a. There's a bit of awkwardness low and also some devious moves higher that may be a bit stout for a 5.9 leader. Regardless of the grade I agree that it's an outstanding pitch. Four stars.
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Location: MA : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Diagonal (5.8+)
By: Ryan Curry When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun climb that starts steep and moves left with a few funky (and sandy) moves with good gear. A gear anchor will enable you to top-rope it (with directionals). I rapped on the Cro-Mag piton anchor.
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Location: MA : Crow Hill : Fisherman's Wall : Cro-Magnon (5.10)
By: Ryan Curry When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A cruddy anchor detracts from what is otherwise a beautiful route. As of 10/08 the anchor consisted of 3 or 4 pitons of questionable integrity equalized with an aging piece of webbing. I ended up climbing up Green Corner to the top and building a natural anchor.
I found other anchors in the area equally dubious (the Intertwine anchor, for example). Cro- Mag is a magnificent piece of climbing, though. A wee bit bold to the first bolt, then enjoyably pumpy climbing to a pin protected leftwards t... more >>
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Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : Coexistence (5.10d)
By: Ryan Curry When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fantastic route with fun moves and a somewhat devious crux. It should be noted that although this climb is mostly well-protected, the opening moves past the first piece of gear are not, but the climbing is relatively easy. Besides that the route eats gear.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : West Face (5.11c)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jul 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this route yesterday so I thought I'd add my 2 cents.
p1: 1st bolt is old Leeper (yellow alien just below it), second looks newer. Crux is thin face climbing to the right of bolts. Second half of pitch is protected primarily by fixed pins and a very old bolt.
P2: a good bolt protects the initial moves into a thin arching crack with some fixed gear. The crack ends as you move on to tricky face moves that felt like solid 5.10. A bit runout here.
P3: Fun 5.10a corner to cruiser 5.8 corner.
... more >>
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : West Wall : Mainline (5.11c)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jun 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the bouldery start (which it shares with Magnum Force) to be nearly as difficult as the thin hands higher up. Maybe not technically, but more difficult to commit to. I used a green alien, small steel wire, and a 000 C3 off the deck and a .75 Camalot and orange Alien at the upper thin hands crux. Send it!
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Location: CA : Sierra Foothills : Calaveras Dome Area : Calaveras Dome : War of the Walls (5.10c PG13)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 5.10 splitter first pitch, when linked, offers perhaps the best pure granite crack climbing at the grade in the state of California (Yosemite included). This pitch alone adds two stars to the route as a whole.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Pistol Whipped : Sig Sauer (5.12a)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb was put up onsight by Jay Smith. Yellow aliens work great through the crux splitter fingers section. Beautiful!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Goodbye Cruel World (5.12-)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best climb I've done at The Wall. I found the big piece recommended to be unnecessary. Light is right on this awesome route.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Wall : Pigs On The Wing (5.11)
By: Ryan Curry When: Jun 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is as aesthetic a line as you'll find at The Wall. Great climbing that is only slightly detracted from by the soft rock in the middle of the route. Otherwise, this would be a four-star climb.
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