Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Prince of Darkness (5.11a)
By: Ryan Brough When: May 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great bolt placements!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Tanners Gulch : Booty Wall Area : Death of a Monarch (5.8+)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: What made it X rated? Sounds like you're keeping a good story from us.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Aqueduct Area, The : Poison Idea (5.10a)
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 18, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: ldsclimber wrote: I was on Mountain Project for the first time in a long time and found your route Poison Idea on it. I wish I would have seen it, because I would have talked to you earlier.
It appears that Aaron didn't know who installed the bolts, and therefore didn't know who to contact regarding their removal. That being said, a trip to IME would have provided him with that information.
Maybe BCC is the next BoCan, where old trad lines are now crossed by bolt lines. IMHO, it do... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Green Adjective Gully : Photo
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Orange Crush is the name of the route pictured.
|
Location: Tony B : Tanzania, Kenya, China, Egy... : Photo
By: Ryan Brough When: Sep 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had a similar experience in a Brazilian favela. The kid would always ask me what time it was so that he could try and take my watch. He wasn't very bashful about it either. He eventually ended up with it. I gave it to him because his thug buddies were pounding my buddy. I told him to take my watch and his gang and get lost. It was pretty scary, but I still can't get over all the fuss for a stupid Timex!
|
Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon : Wendell Spire : Cobble Wobble (5.10c)
By: Ryan Brough When: Sep 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is has twice as many bolts as its neighbor, Icerigger, but it is more difficult.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Sport Land : Clean Sweep (5.9)
By: Ryan Brough When: Jul 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clean Sweep...was that intended as a joke? The rock quality was borderline choss in several spots. Nevertheless, the pro was good and the climbing was interesting enough. While climbing up one section, I nearly trundled a 100 pound rock onto unsuspecting climbers at the Treasure Wall below (I only weigh a buck forty). The line was a little hard to decipher in places too.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Witches' Tower : Nala (5.10-)
By: Ryan Brough When: Jun 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was this climb retro-bolted? I climbed a route to the left of Tese that seemed to share the same start as Romancing the Stone, but went through the small, tiered roof system and then up the north face of an arete to the top of the buttress. There's a photo topo posted in the Romancing the Stone route with a small bush under the tiered roof system that has been cut out and a bolt was placed above it. Maybe it's just a bolted variation of Romancing the Stone?
|
Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs : Runout Ridge (5.7+ R)
By: Ryan Brough When: Apr 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Ben, Dylan's comment was great because it helped me realize that although difficulty ratings are subjective (due to climber's ability, comfort level, rock type, area, etc.), a route description such as R, S or X should be a more objective measure. I need to re-evaluate my own perceptions of routes, try to account for my ego, and consider the consequences of my actions.
On another note, I think that the reason a bolt kit was recommended was because many of the anchor stations hav... more >>
|
Location: UT : Ibex : Shadow Buttress : All Around Routine (5.14a)
By: Ryan Brough When: Mar 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the fixed line and gear when this line was being equipped. Really overhanging stuff. Looked hard then, still sounds hard to me...
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Margin for Air Wall and Env... : Margin for Air (5.10a)
By: Ryan Brough When: Mar 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tony:
Thanks for checking up on me. The heel is feeling much better, even after beating it up in a belaying accident a few months later.
I'm still planning on finishing up this route, but haven't found someone with the desire to hike through all of that talus with me. Maybe you'll come visit again and we can get it done.
Ryan
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Rock Canyon : Green Monster Slab : Green Monster Aid Crack (5.10d)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ten:
You don't even have to be tall. You just have to know how to use your feet for the long reaches. I couldn't feel my fingers, so I have no idea how the crimps really were, but on TR, you can trust anything!
Fun route, I'll wait for better temps before I lead this.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Nob Job (5.10d X)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love the description. Sounds like there might be a story behind it.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : No Jive Arete (5.11d)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed Hand Jive a few weeks ago and noticed that a bolt along the arete was missing a hanger.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Crescent Crack Buttress : Lazarus (5.8)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route would merit more stars if you didn't have to climb the chimney pitch of the Great Chockstone. There isn't anything great about that chimney. Pulling out of the crux traverse is thrilling, to say the least. Rope drag can be minimized by climbing the 5.10 crack just above the crux instead of the easier crack on the left. However, there is a detached section of rock at the edge of the crack that convinced me to endure the rope drag to the left. The last two pitches can be linked to... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : The Standard Thumb (5.7)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two big rappel bolts at the top of the Thumb (east-facing side) for an easier rappel from the top of the summit pitch.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Thumb Area : Robbins Crack (5.9+)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I must have short arms...my hand and ankle are torn to shreds. My blood wasn't the only blood left in the crack either. The crystals are big and sharp. There are a lot of good hand jams deep in the crack, but I couldn't reach half of them, the other half were cups for my small hands. Offwidth technique is a must for this climb. I used arm bars, butterfly jams, chickenwings, heel-toe cams, kneebars and probably made some stuff up too. It was a good humbling experience for me.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Powder Ridge Wall : Deceived (5.9)
By: Ryan Brough When: Nov 1, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like one of them might be of Lying Crack, but it is hard to say. They are really close to each other.
|
Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell (south) : Eastern Reef Slabs
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 27, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like Craig, I'm hoping that the routes could be organized into to sub-areas. The Eastern Reef is huge! I had two different ideas. One way to organize the areas would be by the approach or parking area (i.e. Three Fingers, Uneva Mine, etc.). The other idea would be to separate the areas by the formations (i.e. Surfing the Swell Buttress, Sunshine Slab, Mitten, etc.). When I visited the Eastern Reef for the first time, it took me a long time to get my bearings so that I could find the routes ... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (Mantel varia... (5.9+)
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I always thought that 5.9+ was harder than 5.10, especially in LCC. Isn't that how the ratings are supposed to work?
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Black Peeler Buttress : South Face : Western Grebe (Mantel varia... (5.9+)
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 24, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The answer must be B (deduced by process of elimination).
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Lonesome Buttress : Que Saudade (5.8)
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Que Saudade (pronounced "kay sao DODGE ee") is a Portuguese expression for the feeling/emotion of missing someone or something. On the first ascent, I felt like I was missing a few things, like four more #3 Camalots. Ben must have trundled about 1000 pounds of rock while seconding. I'm hoping that it took out all of the vegetation. I was just happy that I didn't pull all of that choss onto Ben. The few rocks I pulled narrowly missed him. Perhaps I was missing some common sense, but t... more >>
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Waterfront, The : New Thin Slab (5.11b/c)
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hopped on this route this morning (before the sun came up) thinking that it was Comfort Zone. I knew that my Mythos need to be resoled, but that was hardly an excuse for how ridiculously difficult this felt for 5.9-. Because the bolts are so tight, I only took a few short falls before a successful ascent. Because it was dark, I had trouble noticing that the anchors are to the right of the plumb line of bolts. I thought that this was just as hard as the slab section of Pearly Gates.
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Willow Canyon : Twilight Buttress : Photo
By: Ryan Brough When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow! That's a lot of patina!
|
Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Seldom Scene Gully : Last Call (5.10d)
By: Ryan Brough When: Sep 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Still lots of loose rock, but it seemed to stay in place to allow us to climb, just a little unnerving. The climbing seemed harder (physically and technically) than Black Monday, and the gear was really easy.
|
RSS Feed
