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Member Since: May 10, 2009
Last Visit: Nov 15, 2014
Contact Ryan Williams


Point Rank: # 409
Total Points: 1,468
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 0
64 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ryan Williams been climbing?










Contributions


All 2754 | Routes 51 | Areas 35 | Photos 57 | Page Improvements | Comments 148 | Posts 1983 | Stars 291 | Ratings 189
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Dum Dee Dum Dum (5.10c PG13)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 7, 2011

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Comments: Burly crux on this one. I thought the hardest part was getting into the finishing crack. Potentially a long fall from here if you don't place any gear above the bolt. You could get a hand sized piece in the only good jam between the two cracks... not worth it. So make sure you're belayer is awake. Not dangerous, just heads up.

Doing the traverse bypasses the first hard move, but not really the second. You'll have to do a solid 5.10 section either way unless your 6'4''.


Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : Nose Area : Hyperbola (5.10a R)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 7, 2011

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Comments: I climbed this today and don't remember using/needing any tree. I also thought that the stoppers below the first bolt were bombproof, and the move getting to the first bolt is more like 10+.

The crux for me was after the first bolt, where I screwed up the feet and blew the on-sight. After getting the feet right the move felt normal 11- to me and I on-sighted the rest of the climb. Another 11- move after the second bolt, this one more straight forward but still hard. Get bomber gear and lo... more >>


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Charlatan : Fancy Free (5.10)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 26, 2011

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Comments: The crux pitch was one of my favorite at the Needles. Excellent clean granite fingers. I continued up the last bit of fingers (past the bolts) and belayed at the base of the chimney. It's more protected from wind than the ledge where the bolts are, but also gets no sun.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : The Witch : Innersanctum (5.9)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 23, 2011

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Comments: The bolt is still there, but I can't imagine it would hold a fall. There's good gear right there anyways. My partner went left above the roof because she "read it was easier." She was looking at a fairly large pendulum fall, one that could be avoided by taking the more direct (and more obvious IMHO) line straight up. You have to do 9+ (10-?) moves either way, and the gear in the roof is pretty bomber.

We did this in two LONG pitches w/a 70m. Not recommended really, as I had to escape to th... more >>


Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : Lover's Leap : Lower Buttress : Jailbreak (variation) (5.10b R)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 18, 2011

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Comments: This was a very fun pitch. I'd struggle to call it 10d and certainly wouldn't call it R but it was a bit spicy. Very cool climbing none the less.


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : The Needles / Kern River
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: "There is a God, and, obviously, he climbs." - Sam Lightner Jr.

He said this about a route in Thailand, but I can't think of a better way to describe the Needles. I could give 4 stars to pretty much every route we did there. Far and away the best climbing area I hit on my CA road trip and in my top three locals of all time.

Igor Unchained
Airy Interlude
Fancy Free
Thin Ice
Spooky
The Howling
Lost at Sea
Atlantis

ALL CLASSIC!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon and Tioga... : Dana Plateau : Third Pillar, Regular Route (5.10a)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: Excellent climbing in a beautiful setting. First three pitches wander and are not sustained but I enjoyed them (?my partner didn't?). Final two pitches are both outstanding. A few spicy sections for sure, but there is gear to be found. Take your choice of small nuts and cams for the lower cruxes and place bomber finger and hand size pieces for the final moves on solid locks and hero jugs!

We may have done the hard version of the down climb on the approach, but no matter which way you go, it... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Lucky Streaks (5.10c/d)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 14, 2011

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Comments: The best route we did in the Meadows, much more memorable climbing than the Regular Route.

P1 - Easy 5.9.
P2 - Maybe one 5.10 move
P3 - Awkward, especially placing gear, but the pro is good and there aren't any really hard moves, just sustained stemming and whatnot. Not 10d, but I was tired at the top with burning calves.
P4 - Easy for 5.9, lots of knobs alongside the hand crack.
P5 - Traverse will get your attention and then the corner is sustained. Not too hard, but you're feet will be ti... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Regular Route (5.9)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: First 400 feet are very fun and the rest is just getting to the top. Still interesting though, and a good time. If you're OK on easy 5th, you can put the ropes on your backs and solo the top 400 feet or so.

We showed up at 8am and were fourth in line. We took a bottle of wine along to make the waiting a little more fun. If you and your partner are fast you should just wait until a clear afternoon, make sure there are no epics going on and then start late.


Location: CA : High Sierra : Incredible Hulk : Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasi... (5.10)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Did this route in late August. It was my first true Grade IV, first route in the High Sierra... first route in the high anything. I felt like it was a pretty good intro... not much 5.10 but still a ton of climbing and none of the pitches should be taken lightly.

We were slow and it took us all day. We walked down in the dark. It was also our fourth day climbing together, ever, and my fourth day climbing after a two month hiatus. We took our time and there were no fast transitions at the ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Nuns : Holier Than Thou (5.11c)
By: Ryan Williams When: Sep 13, 2011

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Comments: Really fun route with great movement and very interesting and unique features. The first pitch is long but not sustained, and I felt that it was much easier than 11c. It would certainly be 11a or even 10d in NC or WV but I am 6 feet tall and apparently the FA was done buy a shorter guy. The Unforgiven looks like it could be 11c, but I didn't do it.

Second pitch is fun and easy. Bring a few Aliens and some hand size pieces (mostly red C4) for the short third pitch. The crack has an awkward... more >>


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Endless Wall : Fern Point - Party Buttress : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Jul 29, 2011

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Comments: Nice photo. Such a good route!


Location: Colorado : Trail maintenance help requ... : Post : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Jul 27, 2011

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Comments: Does that say Krispy Kreme?


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Morning Glory Spire : Crack of Doom (5.11c)
By: Ryan Williams When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: Just to add to camhead's comment, I'm glad that the pin fell out when we clipped it instead of coming out during a fall. I had a mini-epic that day and I'll tell the story at some point but the current situation is as follows:

We left the pin at the base of the route and camhead spoke with the climbing ranger at the City who said he'll probably just hammer a new pin into the existing scar. Both of us disagree with this plan, but we aren't rangers...

Be careful!


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Burnt Offerings (5.12a)
By: Ryan Williams When: Jul 17, 2011

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Comments: Used to be a biner on one of the bolts to help clean... gumbies always think they are getting a bail biner and take them for booty. Then they end up having an epic trying to clean the route.

Awesome climbing though!


Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Fields of Dreams Growing Wi... (5.11+ R)
By: Ryan Williams When: Jun 25, 2011

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Comments: This is what climbing is all about. Love reading the stories and comments.

I hope to do this route in September if I can find a partner... sounds scary!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Easy Way Up (5.4 R)
By: Ryan Williams When: Jun 24, 2011

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Comments: Doesn't sound like a sport route...


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Lion King (5.11c)
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 24, 2011

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Comments: Sam, I assume your referring to the polished feet on the traverse? For me the crux was the last few moves, which probably haven't gotten any harder right?


Location: UT : Moab Area : Mill Creek : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 17, 2011

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Comments: This route should be added to the database by someone who knows it better than I. It's a classic at the grade.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 11, 2011

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Comments: Nice picture


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Koh Phi-Phi : Tonsai Tower : The Severed Garden (5.12b)
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 11, 2011

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Comments: FWIW I've seen whips onto that thread... it's OK... but it is kind of scary looking.

And the bolts are Petzl Stainless Steel. They are bomber because they are new and have red glue... but they are NOT Titanium.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 3, 2011

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Comments: There is developed climbing all around Koh Yao Noi and loads more to be explored. You can rent a boat from any of the villages on the island, but Ban Tha Khao is where the Mountain Shop is so most of the boatmen there are familiar with the climbing areas.


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Cross Eyed (5.12b)
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 28, 2011

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Comments: "There is a God, and obviously he is a climber." - Sam Lightner Jr.

This is probably one of the single best pitches on Laem Phra Nang. If you clip the chains from the slopey jugs below the rings, you didn't finish! I already moved the anchor back to it's original height once but I think someone's lowered it again. Don't cheat yourself!


Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Dozer Days (5.11c/d)
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 27, 2011

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Comments: Thanks for the comment Ken. I cleaned up the description... at least that's how I remember it. If I'm wrong someone please let me know.

Hopefully this wall will be getting Titanium soon, but it's out of my hands for now.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Olmsted Canyon : Creature from the Black Lag... (5.10c) : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Jan 25, 2011

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Comments: Very cool.


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