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Location: OR : Trout Creek : The Main Wall : Mr. Squiggles (5.10b/c) : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome!
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan Base Routes : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Mar 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some guy was arguing w/ me the other day that I should just lower off of the anchors instead of rapping, because "that's what everyone else does" and "rap rings don't wear out."
Wish I could have shown him this picture.
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Location: NC : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: NO.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Sentinel Buttress : Center Buttress : Sentinel Buttress (5.5)
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: FWIW, another large boulder that used to get slug was pulled off a few summers ago. The way I heard it, a leader took a fall on Zoo View and his belayer had slung a large boulder as his only anchor to the rock/ledge. When the leader fell, he picked up the belayer AND the boulder, and the boulder fell to the ground below. Glad no one was down there...
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Chiang Mai
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dean, rapping is not the answer to your problem and neither is a thicker rope. If you rap, then you are subjecting a small portion of the rope to a sawing action as you swing from bolt to bolt while cleaning the route. This is better for the fixed anchor, but actually increases the chances of damaging your rope. Lowering is usually OK as the rope might be running over sharp rock, but the wear is spread over the entire rope and not just a small area.
And whipping over a sharp edge is not an... more >>
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Location: International : Europe : Spain : Andalucia : El Chorro
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The best kept secret in Spain! A lifetime of climbing in a beautiful setting, no crowds, cheap food and accommodation and excellent and relaxing Spanish mountain villages to enjoy on rest days.
I agree that the rock quality on some of the routes under 5.10 is not always excellent, but I climb here a lot and don't recall ever being on any route over 6b that wasn't bombproof.
Check out the Olive Branch for a relaxing place to stay... Gary and Mel are awesome and you are a 5 minute walk to Las... more >>
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Location: International : Africa : Kenya : Mount Kenya
By: Ryan Williams When: Feb 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Awesome write up!
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Dec 17, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey, Hey look! I can see illegal immigrants!
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff Southeast : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Dec 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great picture of the crash pads... Took me a while to realize there was a climber as well.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Waste Not, Want Not (5.12) : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent picture. I need to grow the balls to start working on this thing.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Wacked Scenario (5.10b)
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is really a sport climb? I think I just threw up in my mouth. What a sad site.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Anasazi Buttress : Artist Tears (5.8 A4) : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: It was a lengthy process, but I've divided Moore's up into sectors. I might divide some of the sectors up into smaller, "sub-sectors" like the three different areas of the North End, and upper and lower tiers for the Hanging Garden. Still working on descriptions and L to R sorting...
@ Sarah - Please go ahead and add those routes. If you have climbed them, you are the best one to add them. They don't need pics, but it's nice.
@ EVERYONE - I haven't done some of the rap descents in years...... more >>
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The flooding is not affecting climbing areas, but the BKK airport is closed and there are snakes and crocs swimming around the city. If you are flying into BKK, you need to check w/ your airline.
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Location: NC : Laurel Knob : Seconds (5.8+)
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty confused about JohnWesley's comments. I am positive that we never had anymore than a 30 foot runout, and it was on 5.6/5.7 at most. This route should NOT get an R.
Pulling into the water groove on P6 is definitely the crux. It was the only part of the route I felt to be 5.9ish, with the rest of the "cruxes" feeling more like 5.7+, all with good pro.
I guess cruxes feel different to everyone but pro on this route is normal for NC.
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Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Lover's Leap : East Wall : Labor of Love (5.10b PG13)
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I didn't realize this was your route Eric. Well done.
I think this was the first route I did at the Leap, which would mean it was the first pitch I had climbed in 6 weeks. I remember it taking a while to get used to the style, but I don't think I did any hard moves 15 feet above a bolt.
Fun climbing either way.
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Location: NC : Moore's Wall : Central Wall : Washboard (5.6)
By: Ryan Williams When: Nov 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow. A lot of opinions going around. I'll chime in and hopefully help people in the future.
The down climb is not bad at all, but I think it does have one or two moves of easy 5th class and a fall would be catastrophic. For most people that I climb with, it is trivial. If the moves were not exposed, a 5.6 climber wouldn't blink an eye. I did it after leading Washboard for the first time, and I remember flailing on Air Show (5.8) later that day. It's all about how you deal with exposure.... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: No harness? Scary.
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : The Smoking Room (5.11b)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not a fan of this one... dunno why. It seems to hold a lot of heat... sweaty climbing for sure.
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Location: International : Asia : Thailand : Laem Phra Nang (Railey and ... : Tonsai Bay : ... : Bon Soir (5.11d)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: For once I agree w/ Wee and Elke... I thought this route was more "tricky" than pumpy. It is quite sustained though, at least for the first 40 feet. I thought the crux involved getting the sequence right.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : South Side : Gemini Crack (5.8+)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the easiest of the 5.8 ledge routes. Do in one pitch.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I realize that LG is popular, but I've always wondered why more people don't spend days or weeks at a time climbing here. It is perfect, really. Free camping in the Natl Forest, 20 minutes from Brevard where you can get excellent food and beer. Go to Looking Glass Outfitters for beta and partners, Pescado's for burritos and wireless, and the Square Root for beer.
I haven't found showers yet...
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Safari Arete (extension) (5.10a)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nate showed me this pitch today, and it is an excellent extension to an already classic climb. Nate linked the first two pitches of Safari Jive so we did this as a stand alone pitch, but I think if you split up the first two pitches, this extension would be an excellent finish to the crux second pitch. It continues straight up after the stellar hand crack finish of Safari Jive, so just clip an anchor bolt and keep on climbing!
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Invisible Airwaves (5.10c A2)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not sure what to say about the big flake. I can't imagine that a small cam would pry it off, but it is kind of scary. It was only a tad bit harder than a few awkward sections midway up the crack but I probably wasn't using my feet very well. P2 looks cool as hell, and I'd love to aid it someday.
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Location: NC : Looking Glass Rock : North Side : Cornflake Crack (5.11a)
By: Ryan Williams When: Oct 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: So much fun. Did in two pitches w/ nbrown today. P1 has a low crux with bomb gear, then tricky face climbing with a few more finger locks before the bolts. P2 is more like 10+ but is probably more fun (and more sustained). Stem, Stem, Stem...
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