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Member Since: May 27, 2009
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Ryan Stefani


Point Rank: # 9,059
Total Points: 23
Last Year: 3
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Ryan Stefani been climbing?










Contributions


All (43) | Routes | Areas | Photos (2) | Comments (13) | Posts (8) | Stars (15) | Ratings (5)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Wind River Range : Deep Lake Area : Steeple Peak : North Ridge (5.8)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Sep 3, 2013

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Comments: We heard about a sketchy descent from folks there, plus there are a lot of mixed information here. We had a very straight forward, easy descent using two 60m ropes. Here are the details:

1. From summit, look through the port hole to the Cirque to the north. Downclimb (3rd class) about 10' on the east side of the summit. Walk south to an obvious rap. 80'.

1b. Stay on rap and walk south for about 10-15' to avoid the slightly slopey, very exposed corner.

2. Continue walking south along the big, ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Jul 19, 2013

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Comments: If this is a 3 or 3+ star climb on a 4-star system, I give Melvin's wheel 11 stars. After all of the hype, I was kind of underwhelmed.

P.S. The cave exit is remarkably hard in the rain. Well, at least after the overhung wall is completely soaked anyway.

P.P.S. To get into a better position for the 5.6 traverse, we decided not to downclimb. The downclimb would have been wet, slimy, and fairly exposed. The original intention was to rap off of the piton at the top of the cave roof.

Be advised:... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : The 37th Cog in Melvin's Wh... (5.8)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Jul 7, 2013

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Comments: I can't add much other than a VERY firm second of Nick Wilder's descent instructions. They are spot-on. I wish I read them before we climbed it!

I did hear several parties talking about how "most people" don't do the third pitch. That saddens me. The third pitch might have been better than the crack pitch!

I agree with the guide book's original 8+, but I disagree with where: the P2 the crack is not an 8+. Maybe more like 8- or 8. The bulge, on the other hand.... Definitely Eldo/Lumpy 8+ for a... more >>


Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : The Dead Snag : Steorts' Ridge (5.6)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Very fun climb. I totally agree about the last pitch: slap that arete all the way up. I'm a 5.6 climber and found the bit of run out on the edge great! I got a BD .3 in a horizontal above the bolt, but I would only give that a 3 out of 4 chance in holding body weight. I did get a good placement right above the belay, which is always a good feeling.

In the middle of the climb, get into that off-fists crack! It's awesome! Just when you think you're going to struggle with that next foot, there's ... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Grapevine (5.8+)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Is there a consensus on the overlap to the right on the first pitch? It's about 120' up and after a 10' traverse from the featured, brushy groove, then up under a roof. The feet ain't great, and the first few hands above the lip are about finger-sized. I give it a hard 9, possibly up to a 10-... but that rating could be affected by A) the fall I took, B) the fact that I can't climb anything steep, or C) I can't boulder anything harder than V0-.... Anyone else have an opinion?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : The Right Way (5.8)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was the most fun climb in this lower section. The dihedral is FAR cleaner that one would expect. If you start below the dihedral to the right-ish (the obvious line all the way up), be VERY careful on the flake to the climber's right before you get to the ledge. It's about 5-6' tall and about 4' deep at the top, and it almost came completely out when I pulled on it at the very top. Be careful with that one as the climbing is easy on solid rock to that point.

Note: this whole bott... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Solaris : Tower of Power (5.10b)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Apr 22, 2012

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Comments: Not sure about the rock with the "x" on it. I pulled on it from below, pushed on it when going by, and stood on it when above it. Sure, it's a tad bit hollow, but it's fine as long as you aren't putting gear around it (and since there's a bolt 2' above and 2' below, I hope you aren't).


Location: NV : Red Rock
By: Ryan Stefani When: Mar 29, 2012

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Comments: Good job on the wag bags! These should be mandatory for all desert environments.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Photo
By: Ryan Stefani When: Jan 16, 2012

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Comments: I'd have to say running into anything that could peck/stab/sting you in the eye while soloing is a bad omen.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Intersection Rock : The Flake (5.8)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: I second the "hard for a .8". I'd give it a solid, old-school .9. Especially if you grunt your way up the back of the chimney to place a couple of bigger pieces...

The top is awesome and soooo unexpected when you get there!

Great climb!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Locomotion Rock : Leaping Leaner (5.6)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Oct 24, 2011

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Comments: Just led this. I've been working on 8/9s in the "classic rating scale" found in places like Little Cottonwood Canyon or Eldo Canyon and this is way not a .6 if started from the bottom. I started it directly below the crack and the mantle was fairly sketchy to the first piece a good 15' off the deck. Sail Away right around the corner is mega-polished, and at a .8-, WAY easier. I had far more trouble on this than I did on Double Cross (7+).

In the end, it was a very cool climb, but definitely not... more >>


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : B Crags (Spotted Wolf Canyo... : ... : Photo
By: Ryan Stefani When: Oct 14, 2011

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Comments: I wouldn't hang on anything in the swell. Very impressive!


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Kor's Flake (5.7)
By: Ryan Stefani When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: It's been said before, but it bears repeating: bring a #5 and/or #6 for the chimney/off-width. Without those, it can be a bit heady.

If you don't have any big gear, you can actually stay in the OW for nearly the whole thing until you can the decent #3 at the end of it. I speak from recent experience. :)