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Member Since: Sep 17, 2012
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Ryan Sather
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Point Rank: # 3,034
Total Points: 211
Last Year: 109
Last 30 Days: 54
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 529 | Routes 4 | Areas 1 | Photos 26 | Page Improvements | Comments 26 | Posts 4 | Stars 392 | Ratings 76
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Extension Boulder : West Face [Extension Boulde... (V3)
By: Ryan Sather When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This problem has two bolts with hangers (no rings) at the top for the faint of heart. Considering doing this myself to recite the topout for this problem.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Carter Lake : Crap Traverse : Small Cave Sit Down V4 (V3-4)
By: Ryan Sather When: 6 days ago

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Comments: Climbed this today (4/27/16) and thought it was a great boulder problem. Didn't see much mention of this problem in the Benningfield guide, hence why it is named the way it is. If anyone has any information on this boulder problem or wall, please inform me, and I will gladly update. We happened to have a good selection of pads today, so it was easy to go for it; however, topping out climbs on this ridge are tall. So some pads are recommended if you're not comfortable at the grade.


Location: CO : Gunnison : Taylor Canyon : North Bank : North Bank Left : Persnickety (5.11a)
By: Ryan Sather When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Wasn't this climb first top roped by Edwin but was later equipped by Steph Johnson on lead while belayed by Richard Kocurek?


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Ryan Sather When: Apr 14, 2016

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Comments: Yes, this is classic American free climbing!!!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Terrain Boulders : Spewbacca (V4)
By: Ryan Sather When: Mar 11, 2016

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Comments: What a gem tucked away here in the Flatirons! Besides the landing being awkward to manage, the boulder's overhanging position and gymnastic movement is a reminder for me why bouldering especially in the Flatirons is a special treat. Highly recommended.


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Weakfish (5.11a)
By: Ryan Sather When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: I am having a hard time distinguishing this climb from Defective Agency. Does anyone have info that could help bring clarification? Thanks!


Location: CO : Golden : The East Quarry : Defective Agency (5.11a/b)
By: Ryan Sather When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: I am having a hard time distinguishing this climb from Weakfish. Does anyone have info that could help bring clarification? Thanks!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Red Wall : Eric Varney Direct (V5)
By: Ryan Sather When: Jan 8, 2016

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Comments: Did Eric Varney Direct from the stand start (right hand in "soap dish" hold) and from a low SDS starting from the flake moving left to the "jug pod" and right hand into EVD's "soap dish" hold. I mistook the lower SDS for Moffat Direct, but upon reading the beta blog, the left "jug pod" is off for both hands and feet if attempting MD.

The lower SDS start from the flake seems like a more logical and straightforward line for EVD and doesn't really change the difficulty. In my opinion, the lower st... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Dog House : Big Dog (5.12b)
By: Ryan Sather When: Dec 26, 2015

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Comments: Does anyone have thoughts on the quality of the permadraws on this route? The nylon and dyneema bake in the sun all year long, and when I was up there recently (12/22/15), things looked a little sun bleached. Curious if anyone has any means to change these things out? Or would it be best just to hang your own draws? Would climbers have a preference to these being replaced with nylon, dyneema, or could segments of chain similar to that on Mighty Dog be appropriate? Just wanted to put some feelers... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas...
By: Ryan Sather When: Dec 15, 2015

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Comments: I don't live there or climb in Joshua regularly enough to even consider placing bolts in the area, and I do not plan on placing bolts there. Like I said "heated" discussion... Just curious what others do. The tatt rappel that is there just seems to be an accident waiting to happen and not because of the quality of the webbing more due to the precarious nature of the slung blocks. I don't particularly remember the terrain that leads to the summit, but perhaps one could reach the summit from the p... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Sports Challenge Rock : Sports Challenge Rock - Eas...
By: Ryan Sather When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: How are climbers choosing to descend off of climbs like Championship Wrestling? Are they downclimbing by Sphincter on the other side or are climbers using the old skety tatt with rap rings? The reason I ask is because my partner and I recently got in a somewhat heated discussion about rappelling off of the tatt and him wanting to place bolts where a seemingly logical safe bolted rap could be placed. I was opposed to adding bolts in the first place because we were only visitors to this area and w... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : The Outback : Peyote Cracks Formation : Peyote Cracks Formation - W... : Left Peyote Crack (5.10d PG13)
By: Ryan Sather When: Dec 14, 2015

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Comments: Did this in succession with the other Peyote Cracks. Tried this on my first trip to jtree with no success, but came back recently and happened to pull through the liebacks. I chose to use one crash pad and I also used a small rack. Climbed up and jumped off several times before I threw in a .1 red X4. Couldn't really determine how the placement was but that ultimately protected the mental crux which for me was reaching the flared jams. My follower said it looked "bomber", but never fell on the p... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty : Main Wall : Kama Sutra (5.10-)
By: Ryan Sather When: Sep 19, 2015

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Comments: A great crack route in BoCan. We linked this in one pitch with a 70m. Five ten... 10a... who knows...? It was a fun romp nonetheless!!! Wide section was fun, so not to be missed if at the crag!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Hammer (5.8+)
By: Ryan Sather When: Jun 1, 2015

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Comments: Love this climb, and I finally got it clean. The first time I tried it the 2nd pitch spanked me, and I fell out! Used 2 #5s and a #6 and was very well protected. We lowered off and climbed Tool or Die. Was a great way to get three pitches in. I feel like might just be able to call myself a 5.8 climber now.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Sidewinder (5.10-)
By: Ryan Sather When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: The 9+ rating is spot on for a climb of this style. I thought getting through the thin hands to the chimney pod was the most mentally challenging for myself but was surprisingly protectable. I brought singles up to a #1 Camalot and doubles in #2- #6 Camalots and an extra #5 Wild Country. This thing would take a lot of #5s if you were so inclined.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Sangaphogos aka Easy Off-Wi... (5.6)
By: Ryan Sather When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I thought this thing was great! I brought some nuts, single 1 and 2, two #3s, two #4s, BD #5, WC #5, BD #6, and WC #6. I think I placed everything but the 3s and the BD #6. Sure, the gear was overkill (probably can protect with smaller gear), but I knew nothing about the climb. I will never turn down a chance to get in some wide crack and practice jamming, armbarring, and heel toe cams. How else are you supposed to practice? This thing was a fun romp wit... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb Lite (5.8)
By: Ryan Sather When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: I really enjoy linking pitches 1 and 2, but I do have to agree it is probably not best for a new/ beginner leader. I have linked pitches one and two twice now without placing anything near or by the sick flake (not sure why one would place anything in the sick flake), but once the flake is surmounted and one is under the dihedral if everything is slung correctly and the the rope drag is minimal, it makes for and amazing pitch of free climbing. I tried to get my GF to lead this thinking it would ... more >>


Location: CO : Denver South : Castlewood Canyon SP : Wendell Spire : Castlewood Capers (5.11a)
By: Ryan Sather When: Jan 11, 2015

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Comments: This a short, good, quality climb with a short crux. I opted to stay slightly left and hit a pinch and then up to the rail and continued to cross over along the rail to the mantle. The position of the bolts are right were you need them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sooberb (5.10c)
By: Ryan Sather When: Dec 21, 2014

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Comments: Did this climb for the first time on Friday and thought it was amazing! Regarding gear on the last pitch. Not sure where I would have placed a 3 or a 3.5 to protect the crux. This also seems more of an overhanging face climb under the lip and only required jamming closer to the lip/ exiting the lip. A red X4 was my first piece, and a blue Alien seemed to fit perfectly in the thin crack to the left. There is a fixed ball nut that I lowered on, because I left my slings on the ledge...(DOH!!!). I t... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Holdout : Wright of Thick and Thin (5.7+)
By: Ryan Sather When: Nov 4, 2014

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Comments: My buddy and I did this route in 2 pitches. Linking the final pitches was maze-like, and I am not sure how well it would have protected a fall, but it made the whole process go a lot faster. If I remember correctly, we rappelled off the opposite side down Beef Eater. I thought this was a quality OW and was surprised to find that there was little written about in on MP. I think bringing either singles up to a six or bring 2 fives if you got em'. Six protect the opening OW well while still allowin... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Blair (overview) : Upper Blair : John's Tower : Big House (5.8)
By: Ryan Sather When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Seems consistent with other 5.7s at the Voo.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Sweet Finish (5.7)
By: Ryan Sather When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: There is also an OW section on the right of the little boulder that gets one to the flake. Was good practice and and awkward size and adds little to the climb.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Poland Hill : Ape Walk (5.9+)
By: Ryan Sather When: Sep 23, 2014

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Comments: Doesn't seem as hard as the other 9+ around the Voo. Maybe because of length or the fact you have other things to stem off of. Entrance into the crack I could see being the most challenging "cruxish" part of the climb. Great fun and practice for OW.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall
By: Ryan Sather When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Regarding the descent if one is doing longer routes like TT and Mother Load: even though there are nice bolts up and down this whole formation, I recommend doing the walk off. If one goes towards the opposite side of the formation once at the top, you will be able to follow different ledges and tiers eventually linking up with a game trail. Continue to follow that down, and it will spit you off around to where the nose and other moderate climbs start. Hope this is helpful! If walking off mother ... more >>


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Monitor Rock : Trailhead Wall : Mother Lode (5.10)
By: Ryan Sather When: Sep 4, 2014

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Comments: Had to leave an over camed blue X4 on the beginning of pitch 2. It helps the opening moves keeping one off the ground. If anyone does ever get it out and would like to return it to me, that would be great! Thanks!


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