Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Me


Member Since: Aug 18, 2006
Last Visit: 6 mins ago
Contact Ryan Palo


Point Rank: # 1,038
Total Points: 610
Last Year: 59
Last 30 Days: 0
19 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ryan Palo been climbing?










Contributions


All 410 | Routes 38 | Areas 3 | Photos 28 | Page Improvements | Comments 45 | Posts 174 | Stars 87 | Ratings 35
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Majestic Pigeon (5.12a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Oct 21, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Just added a lower 1st bolt.

On the grade. Still goes exactly the same. Just slightly harder. In the solid 12a range IMOP.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Disposable Heros (5.13a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jun 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I used to kid around about it being 13a, now Im pretty sure it's a low end 13a. Recently one of the worse holds on the route, which was in the mid crux(section where you surf out the the crescent rest) broke into a nice sidepull.

Is this route really as hard as Scene of the Crime? Does it have moves anywhere as hard as the lower section of Aggro Monkey? Does it feel a letter grade easier than Crime Wave or Lucky Pigeon?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Disposable Heros (5.13a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 30, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Given that the route has not 1, but 4 solid resting spots, Id say it's a lot less continuous than the routes you mentioned. Combined with a lack of a distinct crux, I think 13a is totally fair.

I will say this route is continually evolving and it's entirely possible that at some point in the near future it could be much harder.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Churning in the Ozone (5.13b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I sense some grade creep on this one. Always thought it was standard 13b. In no way is this a hair easier than Vicious Fish.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Dam.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Soul Crusher (5.12b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: There's a somewhat contrived method of avoiding all of the holds on Toxic. I felt that was inline with the other 12+s in the area. If you use the shared jug in the crux section, it's significantly easier. Another fun link is to join the bottom of Soul Crusher, avoid the crux of Toxic, climb Toxic around the crux of SC, and summit on SC.


Location: Sport Climbing : Sport Climbing Just Got Saf... : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Sep 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This is a picture of a highline anchor.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Ryan Palo When: Sep 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I figure I should address the high first bolt issue:

A good deal of the first bolts were not that high when the routes were first bolted. Most of the slopes leading the base were in fact angled and over time they have eroded to flat areas. This has caused a few places to gain 5-6 FEET. A good example is the start of Darkness at Noon. I've seen it erode at least 2 feet, making it hard to reach the starting holds. Stones were actually buried below and have once more eroded.

What happens is the ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Ryan Palo When: Aug 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice work Matt!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Cocaine Gully : Slit Your Wrists (5.13b)
By: Ryan Palo When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes, the best part of Mr Yuk is lowering down and cleaning your draws off of it. Just kidding. Everything but the main crux is quite fun and interesting.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I know! Totally kidding. Was really motivated by this send.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Feb 1, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Mike Williams - Climber


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Aggro Monkey (5.13b) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Now how in the world did you clip that before you did the crux?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Kaleidescope (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I was really disappointed to see people traversing off the route this fall. Yes, you can downclimb a bit on this route to a decent/almost sitdown, but I think it cuts the grade down to 13a. For shame.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : East Ship River Face : Time To Shower (5.8)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 26, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: This was my first Sport route at Smith. Memories la la la.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 21, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: TAKE!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 19, 2011

view comment >>
Comments: Hey Mark,

Thats the crimp that Tim ripped off. I broke the next crimp. The right hand undercling catch. Whoops! A well known good sam brought it back to its original state.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 30, 2010

view comment >>
Comments: I'd really like to stop falling off of the top :(


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 8, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Dear Random Route Developer,
I witnessed I person rip one of your bolts from the wall. Please note that we use half inch by five in bolts at the RC. 3/8 is OK when you have a proper slate of stone to drill into. Unfortunately, there is no decent stone on your route, therefore you will need to retro with larger bolts/ better placements. If you feel that your route is potentially dangerous, please make it known to the public and we will stay away.

Side note:

The Longboard Project will have a new... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 3, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Alan, I am honored that you responded to my post. Thank you for clearing that up.


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave : Boxcar (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: A substantial amount of rock was removed from the lip of this route. The rock in question was beyond reinforcement. I have rerouted the line to the left exiting through the pod. I have completed all of the moves through this "new" section and now feel that the route is a bit easier(~13c). This route is still an open project. However, it needs a bit more work to preparing for a free attempt. There is a key hold just before the pod which absolutely needs to be glued. There still is not an anchor. ... more >>


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave : Warm Up (5.12b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: The 12b grade reflects the difficulty to the 2nd anchor.


Location: CO : Merry Christmas, Happy Hanu...
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 25, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Happy Festivus!


Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Butt Bongo Fiesta (5.13a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 15, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Love it!


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Broughton Bluff : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 8, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Such a great photo of this route. Makes me wanna revisit it.


Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>