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Member Since: Aug 18, 2006
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Ryan Palo

Point Rank: # 1,096
Total Points: 629
Last Year: 36
Last 30 Days: 9
19 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 500 | Routes 38 | Areas 3 | Photos 31 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 194 | Stars 124 | Ratings 61
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Mt. Hood : French's Dome : The Dark Side (AKA The Sieg... (5.12c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 23, 2015

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Comments: My god, did I make this description 9 years ago? Daniel, Id chalk this up to the follies of youth. Interesting to see the grades here drop and the grades at the RC rise.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (m) Smith Rock Group : (1) Northeast Face : Freedom's Just Another Word... (5.12b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: Great route. We linked p1+2 and p4+5. Forgo the anchor of pitch 4 if you dont want terrible rope drag. I climbed the crux pitch mostly on the face. Thought it was pretty desperate that way. Id suggest staying on the arete. Rack: doubles in metolius 1,2,3. Single 0, maybe 4&5. Walk off is fast and easy.


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Ozone : {10} Mordor : The Crumbling (5.12a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 16, 2015

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Comments: Triple threat. Non-stainless. Mad Rock. Screw bolt. Nice


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Colchuck Balanced Rock : Let it Burn (5.12-)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 13, 2015

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Comments: Great route. As good as it gets. Agree with the above for the rack. Will add it's nice to have triples of #1 & #2 metolius, doubles up to green metolius. Could get away without wires.

Descent: There's a slung mushroom shaped chicken head on the south/southwest face. 30m rap. Then head over the rock outcropping to the south. Easy walk off.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Half-n-Half aka Hack Attack... (5.12a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 23, 2015

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Comments: Climbed this from the pedestal to the left. Pretty easy(at a towering 5'7) to clip those bolts.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Majestic Pigeon (5.12a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Just added a lower 1st bolt.

On the grade. Still goes exactly the same. Just slightly harder. In the solid 12a range IMOP.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Disposable Heros (5.13a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jun 9, 2014

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Comments: I used to kid around about it being 13a, now Im pretty sure it's a low end 13a. Recently one of the worse holds on the route, which was in the mid crux(section where you surf out the the crescent rest) broke into a nice sidepull.

Is this route really as hard as Scene of the Crime? Does it have moves anywhere as hard as the lower section of Aggro Monkey? Does it feel a letter grade easier than Crime Wave or Lucky Pigeon?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Disposable Heros (5.13a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 30, 2014

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Comments: Given that the route has not 1, but 4 solid resting spots, Id say it's a lot less continuous than the routes you mentioned. Combined with a lack of a distinct crux, I think 13a is totally fair.

I will say this route is continually evolving and it's entirely possible that at some point in the near future it could be much harder.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Churning in the Ozone (5.13b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I sense some grade creep on this one. Always thought it was standard 13b. In no way is this a hair easier than Vicious Fish.


Location: NH : Rumney : Orange Crush : Predator (5.13b) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 7, 2013

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Comments: Dam.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Soul Crusher (5.12b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 5, 2013

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Comments: There's a somewhat contrived method of avoiding all of the holds on Toxic. I felt that was inline with the other 12+s in the area. If you use the shared jug in the crux section, it's significantly easier. Another fun link is to join the bottom of Soul Crusher, avoid the crux of Toxic, climb Toxic around the crux of SC, and summit on SC.


Location: Sport Climbing : Sport Climbing Just Got Saf... : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: This is a picture of a highline anchor.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock
By: Ryan Palo When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: I figure I should address the high first bolt issue:

A good deal of the first bolts were not that high when the routes were first bolted. Most of the slopes leading the base were in fact angled and over time they have eroded to flat areas. This has caused a few places to gain 5-6 FEET. A good example is the start of Darkness at Noon. I've seen it erode at least 2 feet, making it hard to reach the starting holds. Stones were actually buried below and have once more eroded.

What happens is the ... more >>


Location: WA : Southwest Cascades : Beacon Rock : Wild Turkeys (5.13a R)
By: Ryan Palo When: Aug 29, 2013

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Comments: Nice work Matt!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (f) Cocaine Gully : Slit Your Wrists (5.13b)
By: Ryan Palo When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: Yes, the best part of Mr Yuk is lowering down and cleaning your draws off of it. Just kidding. Everything but the main crux is quite fun and interesting.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 29, 2013

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Comments: I know! Totally kidding. Was really motivated by this send.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Feb 1, 2013

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Comments: Mike Williams - Climber


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (d) Aggro Gully : Aggro Monkey (5.13b) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 4, 2012

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Comments: Now how in the world did you clip that before you did the crux?


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Kaleidescope (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 15, 2012

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Comments: I was really disappointed to see people traversing off the route this fall. Yes, you can downclimb a bit on this route to a decent/almost sitdown, but I think it cuts the grade down to 13a. For shame.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (c) Shipwreck Wall : Shipwreck Wall - River Face : Time To Shower (5.8)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 26, 2011

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Comments: This was my first Sport route at Smith. Memories la la la.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 21, 2011

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Comments: TAKE!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 19, 2011

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Comments: Hey Mark,

Thats the crimp that Tim ripped off. I broke the next crimp. The right hand undercling catch. Whoops! A well known good sam brought it back to its original state.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (g) Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 30, 2010

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Comments: I'd really like to stop falling off of the top :(


Location: OR : Portland & The Gorge : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 8, 2009

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Comments: Dear Random Route Developer,
I witnessed I person rip one of your bolts from the wall. Please note that we use half inch by five in bolts at the RC. 3/8 is OK when you have a proper slate of stone to drill into. Unfortunately, there is no decent stone on your route, therefore you will need to retro with larger bolts/ better placements. If you feel that your route is potentially dangerous, please make it known to the public and we will stay away.

Side note:

The Longboard Project will have a new... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (k) The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 3, 2009

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Comments: Alan, I am honored that you responded to my post. Thank you for clearing that up.


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