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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know! Totally kidding. Was really motivated by this send.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Feb 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike Williams - Climber
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Aggro Gully : Aggro Monkey (5.13b) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Apr 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Now how in the world did you clip that before you did the crux?
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Drive-By Crag : Kaleidescope (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was really disappointed to see people traversing off the route this fall. Yes, you can downclimb a bit on this route to a decent/almost sitdown, but I think it cuts the grade down to 13a. For shame.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : East Ship River Face : Time To Shower (5.8)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first Sport route at Smith. Memories la la la.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Jul 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: TAKE!
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Location: OR : North Eastern Oregon
By: Ryan Palo When: May 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hahaha. this is rich. Corvegas is one of the most selfless developers I have ever met. Pretty sure all the guy does is fix and clean routes, making them safe for the slackjawed masses.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : To Bolt Or Not To Be (5.14a)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Mark,
Thats the crimp that Tim ripped off. I broke the next crimp. The right hand undercling catch. Whoops! A well known good sam brought it back to its original state.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Vicious Fish (5.13d)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd really like to stop falling off of the top :(
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dear Random Route Developer,
I witnessed I person rip one of your bolts from the wall. Please note that we use half inch by five in bolts at the RC. 3/8 is OK when you have a proper slate of stone to drill into. Unfortunately, there is no decent stone on your route, therefore you will need to retro with larger bolts/ better placements. If you feel that your route is potentially dangerous, please make it known to the public and we will stay away.
Side note:
The Longboard Project will have a new... more >>
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : The Dihedrals : Chain Reaction (5.12c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alan, I am honored that you responded to my post. Thank you for clearing that up.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Boxcar (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A substantial amount of rock was removed from the lip of this route. The rock in question was beyond reinforcement. I have rerouted the line to the left exiting through the pod. I have completed all of the moves through this "new" section and now feel that the route is a bit easier(~13c). This route is still an open project. However, it needs a bit more work to preparing for a free attempt. There is a key hold just before the pod which absolutely needs to be glued. There still is not an anchor. ... more >>
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Warm Up (5.12b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 12b grade reflects the difficulty to the 2nd anchor.
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Location: CO : Merry Christmas, Happy Hanu...
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 25, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Happy Festivus!
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Location: NH : Rumney : Waimea : Butt Bongo Fiesta (5.13a) : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 15, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Love it!
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Location: OR : Broughton Bluff : Photo
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Such a great photo of this route. Makes me wanna revisit it.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Dorkboat (5.12d)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I feel like this line should get bumped. As many of the holds have broken, creating another crux about 2/3 the way up. Still fun, but much harder. I redpointed this and Held down to the top and felt that Dorkboat was harder. Perhaps 13a?
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Location: UT : Maple Canyon
By: Ryan Palo When: Jun 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maple in July? Too hot? I was there at the end of last June. The temps outside the canyon were in the 90s-low 100s. Inside the canyon was quite nice in the shade. Can I expect the same?
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks : East Mountain : Dragon's Den : Full Service (V10)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jun 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: WOW, what a great description of this line! I'm really glad someone took this much time to write a full and through description. WELL DONE!
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: New line going in left of Horizontal. Expect steep and fun.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : TuffNerd (5.13c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 1, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: We keep finding kneebars on this rig. Two so far. We'll see if it affects the grade
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Location: OR : Rat Cave : Horizontal Delite (5.13b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Nov 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now a 6 bolt extension on this line to the top of the headwall. This is an open project and will be roughly 13b. Extension prep by RP PS, kR.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Cool Ranch Flavor (5.11a/b)
By: Ryan Palo When: Mar 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: A five bolt extension was recently added. The rock quality improves dramatically from the first anchor. Move through a broken double arete system to the second set of anchors.
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Location: OR : Rat Cave
By: Ryan Palo When: Jan 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two new lines are on their way up. One in between pissfire and the warm up. The other to the left of Tuffnerd.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Belay Girl (5.10c)
By: Ryan Palo When: Dec 27, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Gota say this was the most sandbagged route I've climbed at Josh. And I come from an area full of nar nar slabs. With that said, I found this route to be one of the best on the short wall.
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