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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Cloak & Dagger (5.10+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an excellent alternative to Comic or Escape Artist. First pitch is the only bad pitch. We found the rest of the climb to be very enjoyable but not quite as hard as the ratings suggest. The crux pitch has several .10 sections but probably not anything .10+. All cruxes have good pro. The views of The Painted Wall from the top of the crux pitch are some on the best in the canyon. Route was amazingly clean. Good job, guys. We got to the top and wanted to go down and do it again. Top... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.9)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Feb 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian,
Yeah, definitely remember Steve. Those were the days:) I'm in Carbondale now. There are actually a few approach options. Two different trails up the valley to the lake and another approach from the Snowmass ski area side that comes up to the ridge of K2 then drops into the lake. This second option may be better in winter, since it get's more travel typically. This year is a fluke with the snow conditions, and not many folks are venturing out due to danger. Up the Valley to the lake... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Capitol Peak : Northwest Buttress (5.9)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 25, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian,
Old roomate here:) I have been wanting to do a winter ascent of this for some time. Let me know if you need a partner. I just climbed it this summer and have a good memory of it all. Climbing wouldn't be tooooo bad. Pro was limited on everything above the first two pitches which could prove exciting with crampons on but never harder than 5.6-5.7 so.... Descent could be the most exciting and time consuming part. Approach would be long, even on light skis, and dangerous as you cro... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Bullet Hole Boulder Area
By: Ryan Jennings When: Aug 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the Millineum Falcon. It's under the "Dynamite Shack" area on this site.
mountainproject.com/v/the-millennium-falcon/106055084
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Sublime Vision (M7-8)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Apr 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice, Josh. Any photos? Did you go out the roof?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : The Golden Shower Wall : Pushing Two Hundred (5.11b/c)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Aug 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a question that should be discussed. Thousands of climbers have walked by this wall for years and we've all entertained thoughts of lines here. What held us back? We may have been lazy, thought bolts wrong, or thought the climb was just trivial. I would imagine most were on there way to a serious objective loaded with a full rack of cams looking for an adventure because that is what RMNP is about...adventure. It used to be that was what climbing was about...adventure.
Cli... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Loch Vale & vicinity : Loch Vale & uphill : Vanquished (Powell Peak) (WI5 M5)
By: Ryan Jennings When: May 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin Cooper and I climbed a possible new variation to the first two pitches of this on 5/25/10. Our route was to the right and climbed two excellent pitches of WI5 M5 before ending below a splitter crack with a pin in it's base. We discussed continuing up the crack but opted to stay on ice and used the pin to pendulum into the money pitches of Vanquished. A few photos were added.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Parachute : PsycoticBitch (WI6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Feb 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: OK. Alright, calm down. You don't have to get all heated up. We're just having a conversation on ratings here. I am still a bit concerned though, you really don't feel WI6+X was a bit much? Don't worry, I've driven by your climb often enough. I'll get back with you when I've climbed it.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Parachute : PsycoticBitch (WI6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Feb 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's not forget you originally rated this WI6+X! Now you're down to 5-5+? Did you not realize you were asking for it with a rating like that? It takes a pretty bad ass climb to get that rating let alone a WI6 rating. I agree either the photos don't do this justice or this is just blatant over rating.
As I stated before your ascent appears only as hard as you describe because you decided to climb it in extremely dangerous conditions. Had it been climbed in regular conditions it certainly ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Parachute : PsycoticBitch (WI6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really?? I thought WI6 typically was "X" or at least darn close to. And what's the difference between 6 and 6+? I used to think WI6 was the top of the scale but now I see people putting up WI7+s! What is that? It seems ice can only get so hard. As I've always understood everything extremely physically hard, poorly protected, unbonded, rotten, hollow, thin, running, etc. is WI6.
I haven't been there so anything I say is irrelevant, but I think I would have considered the climb "out of con... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Ryan Jennings When: Aug 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: We were rappeling the Crack of Delight raps when your pack came tumbling down in the vicinity of Fields Chimney or even farther over towards the lower east face. It seemed a few items fell out along the way too but continued down with the pack. We thought it strange since we were just on Broadway and we were the only party there. There was a team, in the boulders at the base of Mills, that said they watched the pack go straight into the bergshrund. A bit later a grey/black sleeping pad came... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Cathedral Wall : Sublime Buttress (5.11 R) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was the day before. The bivy photo was taken when we woke up in the morning and the ropes were frozen to the wall above. We bivied at the base of Pitch 5 after fixing it.
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nothing comfirmed but I've heard of ascents in the 7-9 minute range. Talked with a friend this morning who remembers their time being 8min40sec but it was quite a few years ago. I always remembered him saying 7min something.
Sandy mess, Jesse? It's desert rock, so of course there is sand, but it's got to be one of the cleaner routes in the desert and the climbing throughout is actually quite enjoyable. With the abundant protection and easy climbing, it's perfect for speed climbing. You spe... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction area : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Nov 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't get too excited it's been done in well under 10 minutes. Probably gets speed climbed more often than you think. What's the going speed for car to car?
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Mar 2, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hell NO!!!!
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Skidmark Left (WI5+)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Feb 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The statement around here has always been that: if it forms, Duncan and clan have almost certainly done it. I would love to here from these masters themselves about what conditions were like when/if originally ascended. It was our purpose in posting these routes to see who might have climbed them in the past, as we were quite certain we were not the FA. Something so close had to have been climbed at some point in the past.
My belief would be though that if climbed during those years these r... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 12, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree about being older and more wary. I don't mind running it out if the ice is good but when we did this thing I felt there was a 50/50 chance of popping off the thin ice and I wasn't about to fall on those flakes with the ground fall potential. As it is, you still run it out a bit above the bolt to get to the system above, but at least you won't hit the deck. I'll check it out when I'm down there in a week and then again in the summer. Thanks for the input, you two.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 11, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whaaaaat! That's disgusting. If I actually placed a bolt 2.5 feet away from a good natural piece I should be beat to a bloody pulp. That's just unacceptable and future generations should know that's just not right. Unfortunately I misread Matt's description and believed that the easy variation he spoke of traversed in from Narrows crack higher up along the flake. Now that I go back and re-read his description I realize that the ledge he speaks of is the ledge not far above our bolt. What am... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Jan 5, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cameron.... The single bolt we placed can clearly be seen in the photo that Greg took and if you are familiar with the routes you mention you will see that the bolt is not within reach of either route. Believe me when I say that I put a lot of thought into placing a bolt before I do. This route deserved a bolt to produce an excellent mixed route that regularly forms up, period. Furthermore it should be said that we debated climbing this summer rock climbing wall in crampons for fear of scratchi... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Skidmark Right (WI5+ M6) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is Skidmark Right.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Skidmark Left (WI5+) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Actually, this is Skidmark Left. Same weekend
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : St. Vrain ice : East of Peak to Peak - S. S... : Road Rash (WI5+ M6) : Photo
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 11, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, Road Rash
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mount Charleston Ice : Vegas Hose Monster (WI5)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 8, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Doesn't that woman of yours have YOU sleeping with the hounds yet. If I came out there (and if it was a few years ago:-) I'd be sleeping with your biaaaatch while you spooned the hounds since I'd be the one doing the sending of this sick looking route. Nevada ice? Can't be! Let me know when it's in. Can I climb this one day and do epinephrine the next? If so I'm there!
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Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : North Narrows Slabs
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin Cooper, I and various partners put up three new ice routes on this crag this last weekend 12/1/2006. Perhaps they have been done before. If not they are now called "Skidmark Left, Skidmark Right and Road Rash". All three climb 1-2" thick ice and use existing bolts and natural protection except for Road Rash which required the addition of one bolt above a loose flake. They form most years for a few days. Skidmark Left is the black water streak of Alley Cat Street and uses this routes prote... more >>
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Location: NV : Mt. Charleston : Mount Charleston Ice : Vegas Hose Monster (WI5)
By: Ryan Jennings When: Dec 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: This thing looks fat. Are you guys gettin on it or what? Are you wankers gonna wait till it's fatter and force me to come out there and send it or sack up now! You better call me with a full report B-dog!
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