Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: AR
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Nov 17, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even more reason to remove those unsightly fixed draws. Lets get that junk off the rock!!!!!
Mammut calls for removal of Fixed Draws
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Corner Walls : Escape from Paradise (form... (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: May 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: hey, maybe so. Felt 5.9ish to me, but then again, im a tall lanky fool. I can reach what others cant reach.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Apr 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: too bad. I remember the day when you could climb this and see no one else. Now the parking lot has become a cluster of cars. Alot has changed over the past few years.
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Corner Walls : Upchuck Thrill (5.11a)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a pretty decent route and much less chossy than it appears. Be cautious for loose holds though.
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Corner Walls : Scooter (5.11a)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is actually a pretty decent route and much less chossy than it appears. Be cautious for loose holds though.
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Corner Walls : Escape from Paradise (form... (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I hope I did not step on anyones toes by finishing this route. It has been there unfinished for as long as I could remember. We left it alone for years thinking the original bolters would eventually return to finish what they started. If you were the original bolters...I apologize in advance if i stepped on your feet with this. Please contact me if you find this message. I would like to add your names to my Database of FA's at POB.
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Tailgate Party Wall : Cross Timbers (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If only the whole route was like the upper section. The key to making this route more fun is to stay low during the traverse. Resist the urge to climb up and grab the rail across the top.
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Patio Wall : Turtle (5.7)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: well it was no mistake in the guidebook. Thats what my friend Jim and I rated it when we fist bolted it. I never thought it was 5.9. Sustained 5.7 maybe..or possibly 5.8. All others that day agreed 5.7 as well. Perhaps some holds have broken off?
|
Location: TX : Paradise on the Brazos : Oaks Wall : Bio Hazard (5.10a)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: haha, i bolted this one on lead with hooks and a hand drill. Fun Times. It was named because there were some bio hazard issues going on that morning! Sorry, TMI huh?
|
Location: TX : Photo
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey its Elliot. Man I miss you guys.
|
Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Meadows : Taco Time (5.6)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No way that there is anything on this route harder than 5.6. You must have been off route.
|
Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : Shake and Bake (C2)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes it still goes clean. The middle section did break out a few years ago when a climber was aiding it. I have since repeated it and it still goes clean.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Trisstin's Tower : Regular Route (5.7 A1)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please leave the hammer and pitons in the car for this one now. It has been hammered on enough to go relatively clean. My friend Marcus Garcia, Brian Clark and I only placed one small beak on the second pitch at the highest point trying to get into the second right leaning crack. Just bring lots of small wires.
P1 protects very well with small nuts, cams and lowe balls. Bring lots of the small offset nuts, a set of smaller regular nuts, and a few of the smallest lowe balls if you have them..b... more >>
|
Location: AR
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This past weekend my wife and I took a trip to Arkansas for the first time in a number of years. I have always loved the Beauty and Serenity of climbing in Arkansas. Its a beautiful state. The lush forests and beautiful terrain and rock have always attracted me there. Not to mention the remote feeling of climbing there. This weekend my opinion has changed somewhat.
Ill tell you a little about our experience this weekend. We spent the 3 day weekend camping alone at cave creek. On the second day... more >>
|
Location: ID : City of Rocks
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Jun 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: what is the best most current guidebook to the city of rocks? I may be making a road trip to climb there at the end of june and would like to purchase the books in advance. Thanks.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Cottontail Tower : West Side Story (5.9 C3)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Nov 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does this route still go at C3? Im interested in doing it and was curious what the grade is now?
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Nov 1, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: My initial thoughts were that someone probably removed them in order to reduce traffic on the route. This route has become very popular and its not uncommon to wait a while for others to get out of the way. But thats a very lame reason for doing so, and I dont think its even very effective. It just makes the slower parties who were counting on pulling on those bolts take longer now. I dont understand why their are idiots in this world. We would be better off without them.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Steve, yes, that fixed chouinard nut you mention now sits on my dresser. Back in 04 or 05 when we did some rebolting on this route, the sling on that nut was just about warn through. We cleaned it and it opened up a nice clean flared crack that took an offset alien really well. I dont remember this section being that hard either so i guess its changed a bit there. But of course my arms are like stick clips to begin with so i could reach those next placements pretty easily.
I would like to ge... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, im pretty sure that both of the bolts were intentionally removed. Both still had the collar and wedge still in the hole and they were tight. They were both indeed 5 piece rawls. If they had pulled then the colar and wedge would have been gone too. They had to be loosened in order to come out like that. They should have just been retightened instead of removed.
Fortunately, someone can easilly go back and should be able to place a new bolt back in the same hole. You might even be able to jus... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Mexican Hat : Bandito Route (C1)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: as of this last week all bolts on this thing were bomber. Still a leeper hanger on two of the bolts, but they were bomber. Looks like the asca replaced the top anchors. They had red ASCA Fixe hangers on the top anchors and rap anchors, and there were rap chains and rings on the rap anchors. To bad the bolt hangers on this and the route just north of it are not cammo, because they are clearly visible from the road below and a blatant eyesore. Was happy there was no trash on the summit. Only a... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Valley of the Gods/Mexican ... : Putterman on the Throne : Supercalifragilisticexpiali... (5.10+ C1)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: climbed this a few days ago and rather enjoyed it. Nice adventure climbing. I did think that the rack listed in desert rock was rather ridiculous. It suggested a set of tcu's, two sets of cams to #5 with extra 2 to 4. We opted not to take that much and it definately was not necessary. I used only a yellow tcu on the last pitch. Did not use any #5s, the 4.5 was nice for the wide section on the first pitch. If i were to do it again i would only take a yellow tcu, 1 #.75, 1 @P... more >>
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Ancient Art : Stolen Chimney (5.10)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: No, im pretty sure that both of the bolts were intentionally removed. Both still had the collar and wedge still in the hole and they were tight. They were both indeed 5 piece rawls. If they had pulled then the colar and wedge would have been gone too. They had to be loosened in order to come out like that.
Fortunately, someone can easilly go back and should be able to place a new bolt back in the same hole. You might even be able to just place a new hanger and bolt stud back in using the sam... more >>
|
Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70m rope, you can link pitch 1, 2, and part of 3. We did this and ended at a decent belay at the base of an easy, left-facing, dihedral slab. It is a short slab just before you do the traverse to the base of the 5.9 flaring chimney/crack. Keep in mind that this is exactly 70m as we had absolutely no rope left. I thought I was going to have to simul the first pitch a little but never had to. For pitch 2, you can take it accross the traverse to the base of the 5.9 crack and belay there. F... more >>
|
Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : French Route (5.11a R)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is protected well on the low steep section but then becomes runout up easy terrain once you pull over the overlap where the two bolt intermediate belay is.
|
Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Deep Prok (5.8)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, that's correct.
|
RSS Feed
