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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: With a 70m rope, you can link pitch 1, 2, and part of 3. We did this and ended at a decent belay at the base of an easy, left-facing, dihedral slab. It is a short slab just before you do the traverse to the base of the 5.9 flaring chimney/crack. Keep in mind that this is exactly 70m as we had absolutely no rope left. I thought I was going to have to simul the first pitch a little but never had to. For pitch 2, you can take it accross the traverse to the base of the 5.9 crack and belay there. F... more >>
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : French Route (5.11a R)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is protected well on the low steep section but then becomes runout up easy terrain once you pull over the overlap where the two bolt intermediate belay is.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Deep Prok (5.8)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: yes, that's correct.
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Main Dome : The Shield : Stranger Than Friction (5.10b PG13)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Sep 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: this route feels easier than 5.10 to me compared to other 10s ive been on. It is however pretty sustained from start to the top out of the vertical section. Great route and worth doing.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Checkerboard Wall : The Maiden Voyage aka The R... (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: We also did this in three pitches to the large ledge. It's worth it speedwise to cut out that extra pitch. Link 1 and 2, then take pitch 3 past the roof section to the small but comfortable belay stance above the twin crack section. Good natural gear for an anchor...1 to 2" for gear at the belay. Then run pitch 3 to the big ledge up top. We used a 60m for this linkup and it was plenty.
If you're on the faster side...start with Casually Off Route in the morning then run over and do this one ... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Casually Off-Route (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Aug 24, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route last week. You can easily do this route in 4 pitches. We linked pitch 1 and 2 of the casual route to the large ledge with the trees. Then pitch 3 and 4 of casually off route and belayed just below the undercling variation. Pitch 5 and 6 up to the dirt ledge with the tree. (note, we did the undercling variation and clipped minimal gear to cut out rope drag. Then linked 7 and 8 (which is back on Casual Route). We had a 60 m rope. The only pitches i recall being close on w... more >>
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Wizard Wall : Asleep at the Wheel (5.12a)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Jan 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, i dont feel this is 12a either. It is sustained 11 climbing for sure..but not 12a
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Window Rock Wall : Tuberculosis (5.8 R)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Jan 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: No pins are needed as suggested in the description.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Marlboro Man Wall
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Jan 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: nothing is off limits in the narrows for climbing. Only sport rapelling is prohibited.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Lichen Wall : Ker Plunk (5.7)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Jan 20, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: no way is this a 5.7!!!! its 5.6
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Location: TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area : Clockwerk Orange (5.11a R)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun edgy face climb. Felt easier than an 11a. Id say a 10c. The Bolts are well placed and the falls very clean. Its a bit runout towards the top, but on easier terrain. This route used to be runout before it was retrobolted with a third bolt. :( A must lead route!
Ryan
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows : Zoo Wall : No Stone Unturned (5.9)
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: be advised that the flake right below the bolt at the lip of the overhang flexes. Its loose and could possibly blow while your clipping the bolt resulting in groundfall if you do like i do and make that bolt your first piece. I would advise throwing in a friend in the crack to the right to protect yourself until you get the bolt. The hold still seems strong, but will eventually most likely blow out. Pull with care.
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Location: OK : Wichita Wildlife Refuge : The Narrows
By: Ryan A. Ray When: Oct 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, you can climb on the opposite side of the creek now. In the past it was closed because of a five year study to determine if climbers were making an impact on the area. After a finding of no significant impact the ban was lifted. You can now climb there. There is still no sport rapelling allowed in the narrows though.
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