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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : June Lakes Bouldering : Bachar Boulders : ... : Like a Virgin (V3 R)
By: Russ Walling When: Oct 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting. That is NOT what that crack is called. Like a Virgin, the song via that tart Madonna came out in 1984. Bachar did that crack in probably 1979 or maybe 1980 at the latest. I'll ask around as to the original name, but it was called "Picnic Table Crack" or just "The Crack at the Bachar Boulders" since as far back as I recall....and that is like 1981 or so.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : June Lakes Bouldering : Bachar Boulders : ... : Like a Virgin (V3 R)
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like a Virgin??? Where did you get that FA name?
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Wildcat Falls & Above the C... : Separate Reality (5.12a) : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That looks a lot like John Mallory in the swanky knee pads belaying....
and for a another wild guess... is that Rick Cashner looking on??
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : Boortemus (5.10d)
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a dick_wrenching_mega_classic!
it has been called, the "Astroman of Indian Cove"
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Imaginary Voyage Formation : Imaginary Voyage (5.10d) : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not so good.....
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Whitney Portal : Whitney Portal Buttress : Nimbus (5.10c PG13)
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this route was kinda hunky. The rock is not very good (grainy) and the location and moves are just not that memorable. Very average to poor outing. There are much better routes to do in the Portal. I would not do it again.
That being said:
First pitch does have only 3 bolts. You can sling a flake or two, one at the start, and one just below the last bolt. Anchor is at two Mussy Hooks on a good stance. There are a couple of ankle breaker boulder problems mid pitch, so don't fall.... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Ciebola (5.10b PG13)
By: Russ Walling When: Jul 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Funny that ropes are in meters but our minds are in feet...
Always wanted to do that "Sweat Jesus" you mentioned too....
Just funnin' with ya.... I'll pull these comments after the next typo fix.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Medlicott Dome : Medlicott Dome, Right : Ciebola (5.10b PG13)
By: Russ Walling When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is the first pitch really 100 meters, or is that feet?
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Iceberg Boulder : ... : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Jun 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Prolly a 5/16" button head, but mank just the same.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Cochise Stronghold Campgrou... : Dominatrix Crack (5.11d)
By: Russ Walling When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wild Guess: FA Dick Cilley, full name, Dominatrix Without Mercy
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : East Buttress (5.10b)
By: Russ Walling When: Jun 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Karsten: Try this one:
http://fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/eastbutt.gif
Pitch by pitch blow by blow and PDF of the topo:
http://fishproducts.com/topos/yostopos/eastbutt.html
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Boy Scout Wall : Three Giant Steps (5.10a)
By: Russ Walling When: May 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The MP one is correct. The SoCal book has a fair number of errors in it.
This beta photo is correct also:
http://imglarge.mountainproject.com/105918648_7597ba.jpg
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Coral Sea Adventure (5.8)
By: Russ Walling When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good climbing and fairly solid rock.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : East Face (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Might be the best the Fin has to offer. Good climbing for the grade. We went slightly right at the top past the 1/4" spinner.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Shark's Fin Arete (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A must do if you are trying to "tick" the fin. If not, the routes to the left are actually better climbing for the grade.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Pirates on Horseback (5.10+)
By: Russ Walling When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty good climbing on fair to poor rock. Curious placements on the first few bolts. Easier to just skip the first one rather than trying to clip it. Watch out when you lower off the top. The anchors are such that you will whip around the corner to the steep side of the Fin and abrade your rope pretty good.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Ol' White Pappy (5.10c)
By: Russ Walling When: May 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hard to grade or really star this quasi pile. Sure the rock is good, in some areas of the route, but where does the route really go? If you stay way right on the arete, the rock is pretty bad as a fair amount of holds are actually around the corner away from the good rock. Some are total crap and the next 4mph wind will probably liberate them from the formation. If you stay kinda to the left, you could actually clip the bolts for FBM as you pretend you are on OWP..... I guess it is best to j... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Throbbing Gristle (5.12a)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Or this gem of Scuffy B.
Part slideshow, part movie:
Scuffy on the Gristle
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Beak Boulder : Modern Warfare (5.10a)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: additional info and pics can be found here:
WideFetish.com
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - East Face : Point Of No Return (5.10c)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: They will all fit at some point. It ain't going to help you much for the business section.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : The Sheepshead : Ides of Middlemarch (5.9+) : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Feb 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: n00bs.... they never cease to amaze!
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Raven Rocks North Face "Pow... : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Feb 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure how the Sooze got that. I went all CSI on it, and it is for sure the start of Espresso.
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Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Two Pines Buttress : Thoroughfare (5.11a) : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Prunes is the man!
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks
By: Russ Walling When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: "Austin is working on it" uh-oh. That is kinda scary.
Here is slide show from our trip in '07. You can see some of the old bolts in the show. It is a fairly large QT Movie, so be patient and let it load. There is like 100 images. You can do a mouseover on the little "i" in the upper right hand corner for captions on each photo. If you put your mouse over the bottom middle, forward, reverse and pause will show up.
here is the link: http://fishproducts.com/movies/hueco_10_07.mov
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Location: TX : Hueco Tanks
By: Russ Walling When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Ken.
Does anyone know the official bolt replacement policy at Hueco these days? Or do you just wait for a "drillers moon" and make it happen?
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