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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : The Return of Mudzilla (A3)
By: Russ Walling When: May 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick! The mud.... the horror!
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : South Face : South Face - Left Side : Left Ski Track (5.6)
By: Russ Walling When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is a beautiful essay about a wobbler John Long had while following John Bachar soloing in Long's book Rock Jocks, Wall Rats and Hangdogs called "Last Blasphemy".
Wrong Left Ski Track there history buff. The Left Ski Track depicted in the story is in JT, and Largo ain't wobbling on a 5.6- ever. And as an aside, the story is titled the The Only Blasphemy.
Here is the link to the climb: www.mountainproject.com/v/left-ski-track/105725131
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : The Valley of Kings : ... : Eagle Talons (5.12a)
By: Russ Walling When: Feb 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOLZ Murf and Caught!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Carola's Hip (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not bad and takes regular gear in the 2" range. The wide stuff is easily climbed around using the many face holds and good edges. After turning the fake roof, I went out left and clipped the last two bolts on Maiden Voyage and finished up at those rap anchors. Pretty nice pitch done this way and you don't have to haul gear to set up your own anchor, or grovel up the rest of the low angle wide stuff. The upper part of Maiden Voyage is plenty easy and not run out. No worries, and it goes at m... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Sheep Pass CG Area : Wailing Sax Wall : Satchmo (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is such a chossy wonderland over in this area of the crag, I'm not even sure I was on this route... but if I was...
The start seems to be climbers left from what is the down climb (a gully with a giant chockstone in the top of it) about 20 or 30 feet. If you start any further right, it will be a mostly very low angle slab with some plates and knobs on it and probably goes at 5.1C... If you start any further left, it is almost looking hard and sort of blank. So start in the middle of this a... more >>
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Royal Arches : Royal Arches (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Until his untimely death, Juan DeFuca was working on it.
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=165828
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Entrance Area Crags : White Face : ... : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is a Wimple, not to be confused with a Coif.
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Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Entrance Area Crags : White Face : ... : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just a trick of the lens comment-boi... relax, we got this.
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Location: CO : Call for Donations to help ...
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Latest update:
Dec. 14, 2012 - 01:12pm PT
Spoke to John this morning. Here is what is happening:
John is having surgery today, apparently the last one. The leg appears to be healing properly, and he is looking forward to getting out of the hospital in a week or so.
I am going to sit down with John after he gets out of the hospital and evaluate with him the need for future fundraising efforts. If there is a need and John wants us to go ahead, we will then make plans for a coordinated and robus... more >>
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Location: CO : Call for Donations to help ...
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: In a nutshell, it sounds as though nobody should donate via ChipIn or any other "fund" for Largo at this time. Any donations or fundraisers will be announced at a later date and the stamp of legitimacy will be that Rick Accomozzo will be attached to any efforts.
Update post from Largo can be found here:
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2004841&msg=2>>>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Baskerville Rock : Right Baskerville Crack (5.10a)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, good pro, with 3.6 interesting moves. Probably a bit harder than the area classic Tossed Green from a technical standpoint.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Crescent Wrench (5.10d)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Always a tough tic for me and no way I'm leading it. Hard moves right to the finishing jugs.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : Tossed Green (5.10a)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Interesting moves in a few places with a punchy topout. Bolts at the top are in good shape for an easy lower or rap. Eats up pro in the small to medium sizes.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Baskerville Rock : Left Baskerville Crack (5.10b)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The face climbing down low is not very hard, and right before an actual move shows up, you can pop in a cam in the 3/4" range to protect the move onto the shelf. Don't pop though.
From here the climbing should be fairly uneventful and with two cams in the 4" to 5" range the wide stuff is very well protected. Of note is no actual offwidth moves are needed to climb the wide crack.
Descend via a short easy scramble over the back of the formation.
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hi David!
It is a lot like Josh for weather. March is a great month and should be fantastic. January will probably be cold, but routes in the sun with no wind should be fine.
May/june, probably good in the shade and hot in the sun. Right on the edge of it being desperately hot. August, hot and shade climbing in the AM or Eve would be mandatory.
| Monthly Avg Temps / Lone Pine
Submitted By: Russ Walling on Dec 10, 2012
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Don't Think Twice (5.9)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: No idea what Mark L is talking about up there.
It is not dirty or chossy, and there is no face at the top. Anyway...
This turned out to be a really good route. Interesting moves, bomber pro, and good rock. It is like a cross between SuperRoof and MooseDog Tower. Climb the approach crack and lob in some med cams or a giant stopper or two. Get up under the roof and sink the bomber pro (2.5" cam) and sus out the roof moves. Get established in the roof and plant a 4" cam into the roof. Mov... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : All Along the Watchtower (5.8)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice easy clip up addition to the crag. Once you step up and over the "tooth" feature, it eases considerably. Anchor is some cams in the 1" to 2" range with a long extension and then sling a big block right at the last bolt to slingshot. Not a very elegant solution. There is no bolt anchor at the top.
To descend, go up and over the top and scramble down to climbers left back to the base of the crag.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Rainy Day Women (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So is this the right or the left crack?
I'm talking about the RIGHT crack in this comment.
Good route, in the sun if there is sun, and somewhat interesting climbing on nice features. No big mystery, just plug some cams or med nuts and work your way up. Crux is probably near the top, but no section has anything like a shutdown move. The summit anchors will take almost anything, but stuff in the 2" range seem to work best. Probably belay on top unless you are all fancy and do an extended an... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Mindless Mound : Maggie's Farm (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: So is this the right or the left crack?
I'm talking about the LEFT crack in this comment.
Good route, usually sunny and sort funky up high at the slightly flaring crux fingers/hand section. Take some cams and med stoppers up to about 1.5" for the crack. The summit anchors will take almost anything, but stuff in the 2" range seem to work best. Probably belay on top unless you are all fancy and do an extended anchor type thing to set up a slingshot.
To walk off go up and over the back of th... more >>
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Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Unknown Pillar
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We asked around a bit including the GuideBookGuy™™ and nobody knew what this pillar was. Hard to believe, but true. If you have the info on this crag, please update the entry.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Real Hidden Valley : Wimp Tower : Magnetic Woose (5.10b)
By: Russ Walling When: Dec 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good route, super short, and has the best section of pure 1" finger crack in the Park. Too bad it is only 3ft of fingers, but it is good none the less. Go up the crack, move right on the dike and then move left to top out on some grainy fingers. Eats up pro in the med stopper to 1.5" range. Scramble off top to climbers right. Set your own anchor with med cams.
This route will probably be harder for you if you dont have giant fingers.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : More Monkey than Funky Rock : More Monkey than Funky (5.11b)
By: Russ Walling When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super classic route! Great cold weather oven over there too.
As to the pro listed above: How about just using crack size instead of all these brand specific sizes? WTF is a black/brown #9 Trango 2010 series master cranker? How about 2" pro under the roof and something in the 1" range around the lip?
Not everyone owns all that bullshit or even knows what it all is.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Fender Bender (5.8-)
By: Russ Walling When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route kinda blew ass. The most interesting thing was the fact the low angle crack is blown out with pin scars! Totally contrivo and should really be straightened out and fixed up by the midnight bolt police. Difficulty depends on the line you choose, but skipping the route altogether would not be a bad option either.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Pops Goes Hawaiian (5.7 R)
By: Russ Walling When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Neat little route on a cool feature. Don't pop getting to the first bolt or you will be a mess.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Reggie Dome : Sunny Delight (5.9)
By: Russ Walling When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pic above is wrong for route line. It will be pretty obvious when standing at the base. I went up the giant creaking flakes pretty directly or slightly left of the bolt line. The holds are good as long as they stay on the wall. Under the roof something in the 1" cam range with a couple of full length slings will protect your initial foray as you look for pro above the roof. Slot a good nut and cast off. Holds are big and it is over soon. A couple more nuts or small cams will take you to t... more >>
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