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Russ


Member Since: Oct 5, 2004
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Russ Walling


Point Rank: # 140
Total Points: 3,244
Last Year: 474
Last 30 Days: 2
187 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Russ Walling been climbing?










Contributions


All 2224 | Routes 82 | Areas 12 | Photos 355 | Page Improvements | Comments 469 | Posts 409 | Stars 604 | Ratings 293
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Rattlesnake Canyon : Somewhere n00b : Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy... (5.11-)
By: Russ Walling When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Bolted! Now that is pathetic! The Gordo_Bots strike again!!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Buttermilk Country : Buttermilk Crags : ... : Dr. Zyme (5.10a)
By: Russ Walling When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Enjoyable for who? C'mon man, it's Bishop.... grow a hair on your sac (or head to Clark Canyon)


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Raven Rocks : ... : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Aug 23, 2014

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Comments: Who is saying it is dead??? Take it over to SuperTopo and let's do 800 posts on the status of the bird.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Fairview Dome : Sorcerer's Apprentice (5.11a R)
By: Russ Walling When: Aug 19, 2014

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Comments: The crux is a section of 5.11A slab that's a little run out, but over a shiny, retrofitted bolt

Retrofitted as in added where no bolt existed before.... or as a replacement for the original bolt in the same position???


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Copenhagen Wall : Heavy Water (5.10a R)
By: Russ Walling When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Man, that's a crappy description. With the classic "Standard Rack" too.

Is this the route with the 1/4" bolt just to the right of Quantum Leap? Bueller?????


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Copenhagen Wall : Quantum Jump (5.10c)
By: Russ Walling When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Love it down low, hate it up high. Anchor is some 1" to 2" cams on the summit over the ridge a bit. Sorta hard to hear your follower at times.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Copenhagen Wall : Butterflies are Free (5.10a)
By: Russ Walling When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Almost like real climbing over a small headwall. Then it is over. First bolt is at your shins when you finally get to it. Odd. OK to do if you are rapping from the anchors above... if not, skip it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Blackout (5.11a R)
By: Russ Walling When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Hard, grainy, and sequential moves around the first bolt. The R rating probably comes from the opportunity to place some really small gear in an overlap, right about the height you could deck from. There is pro available in the horizontal break (1.5" cam and a big nut?) before the second bolt. In-obvious
moves at the second bolt are pretty hard and grainy. Place some more pro in the next horizontal (1" - 2") and then share the anchor with Blackheart. I TR'd it.

Note: This route has only t... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Ken Black Memorial Dome : Blackheart (5.10b)
By: Russ Walling When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: This route starts at the large rock scar on the left end of the crag. Some funky moves on poor rock get you past the first bolt and then you can slug in some 1"-2" pro in the horizontal crack. Keep moving up and left past another bolt and easier climbing to some more pro (2" stuff) in the next horizontal.
Two bolts with chains on top. I TR'd it.

note: The Stackhouse beta photo for this little crag is not accurate.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Spicy Pizza (5.10d)
By: Russ Walling When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Good route on interesting terrain. No big crux, but plenty of attention getting moves on real positive holds.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Panzarotti (5.7)
By: Russ Walling When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Slightly better climbing than the routes to the left. Big holds on a low angle arete.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Deep Dish (5.6)
By: Russ Walling When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: Didn't seem that hard, but harder than the routes on either side of it. Maybe 5.6C


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : It's a Pisa Pie (5.6)
By: Russ Walling When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: A bit of a squeeze job on a climb anywhere wall. First bolt is about 62" off the ground. Can't miss it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Skyscraper Rock : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I don't know anything about it save for looking at it the other day.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Geology Tour Road : Jerry's Quarry and Lost Pen... : Skyscraper Rock : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: Why is this route not in the route database? I know 4 guys looking to retrobolt it since it looks like it was never finished.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Left Route (5.10a R)
By: Russ Walling When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Pretty good route. Bring a bunch of cams and loooooong extendo runner for the TR.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Left Hand of Darkness : Left Hand of Darkness - E. ... : Right Route (5.10c)
By: Russ Walling When: Apr 14, 2014

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Comments: Instead of coming in from the right, go up the thin seam for some added hard moves... how hard? Good question. 5.10+ or so? Pro would be real thin on lead. I've always been a TR hero every time I've been over there.

The direct direct 11c way above the roof is silly hard. I'm saying something has broken above the roof. It's desperate and this time out, a demoralizing shut down for me. We used to call the direct direct The Middle Hand of Darkness. (in fact, I'll add it as a route right now... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Middle Cathedral Rock : Bircheff-Williams (5.11b) : Photo
By: Russ Walling When: Apr 11, 2014

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Comments: Yosemite Climber

amazon.com/Yosemite-Climber-Ge...


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Chopper (5.10c)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Another fine classic of the genre on the Camp 4 Wall. Exiting the pod thingy is a tough transition into the layback. Great route!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Edge of Night (5.10c)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: I remember going up there in the formative years with Dick Cilley.
Here is what he says about the route over on SuperTopo:
Funny story about I think Edge of Night. I was struggling on it and I yelled down to the Fish, you want to come up and take a look? He asked, How is it?(the fall) I looked down at the pro and said, "Itś death Russ". He said, "Naw thats alright".
Cilley then finished off the pitch.

I remember it being real good and with modern pro, it should... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Dairy Queen Wall : Dairy Queen Wall - Left Sid... : Lurch (5.8)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: "Standard Rack" is a "standard" joke out here. Total BS and really tells you nothing. It is just laziness on the part of the route submitter.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Lost Horse Wall - Left Side : Are You Experienced (5.11 R)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 15, 2014

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Comments: Big Al Bartlett has sent me a message: Raleigh Collins has put a lead on this thing. Yikes!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Seven of Cups (5.8)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: OK tick while up there anyway. Not exactly a destination climb.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : The Hanged Man (5.10b)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Climbs a neat feature with some cool moves. Probably a 1.5 star route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney / Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Ghosts : ... : Magus (5.11a)
By: Russ Walling When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: Somewhat contrived at the top where the routes collide. You could force the grade by staying in the middle area, but literally 7 inches away are good holds on either side of the "line".

Fun enough if you don't care what route you climbing/encroaching on. Only the forced version is 5.11


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