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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : North Astro Dome : ... : Repo Man (aka Power Fingers... (5.12a R)
By: RTM When: May 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob, too bad you didn't replace the bolts on the first pitch, the climbing looks really good - I talked some guys into climbing this for photos - when we got there and saw the old bolts, they were like oh hell no!
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway
By: RTM When: Apr 27, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Smith, thanks for that update - Keep on 'em!!! Most new climbers there simply don't know how to act in the outdoors, its not that they don't care (mostly), they just need to be educated on climbing ethics and whats acceptable at Trammy!
I once ran into a dood there that thought it would be wrong to clean off ticks, acting like it was a disservice to boulderers, because they would need them to figure out how to climb the problems
- UUHHHGGGG!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Desert Queen Mine : Fraggle Rock : Cosmic Trigger (5.12d)
By: RTM When: Apr 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Downrating it that much seems a bit much - felt pretty hard to me, more painful than anything!
The stars Troy gave to his JT routes in the '92 guide were definitely a bit enthusiastic.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Long Valley : Tuna Juice Area : Unknown (V4)
By: RTM When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall the tree was really cool the way it draped over the boulder. I almost think the name had something to do with the tree - I'll hit up Damo for the name!
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Long Valley : Tuna Juice Area : Unknown (V4)
By: RTM When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Are you talking about the boulder that has/had a large fallen tree draped over it? Has a roof-like feature?? Damon Corso did something on this boulder that was in that difficulty range. Can't recall what he called it tho.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Hall of Horrors Area : Hall of Horrors : ... : Photo
By: RTM When: Apr 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: An old Dave Mayville project - so I hear.
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Year of the Cat Gully : Year of the Cat Boulder : The Persistance of Time aka... (V6)
By: RTM When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tram has a messed-up tradition that goes - if you first ascend someone elses project, whether advertently or inadvertently, then the problem gets named "the Undone (insert name) project", after the person that got burned. Sort of like pouring salt in the wounds! Thanks jokester Joe Morgan for that tradition!!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Roasted and Raw (V12)
By: RTM When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another morsel from that day - Chris Lindner, Cary Carmichael and Kyle Owen decided to go exploring on the way out, despite my warnings of getting lost. So, around abouts midnight, they still hadn't shown up in the parking lot, thats when Damon Corso and I decided to hike BACK up the mountain in search of them - nothing! The next morning they turned up at the Barker Dam parking lot, tired and hungry, but none worse the wear. It was a very cold night - and there were rumors of three-way man-spoon... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Feature Boulder (aka Fred N...
By: RTM When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Chris - I can't even get the things I named correct these days! Named partly because of all the features on the rock, and partly because we thought (at that time) that it was one of the premier boulders at the Underground.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Roasted and Raw (V12)
By: RTM When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: On the day that Chris went to do the FA, we had a badass posse of climbers intow, including Ethan Pringle. As Chris work the climb, Ethan also "played" on it. After a while, it was evident that Ethan was about to send. Chris, picking up on that, went full-tilt and hiked the problem battle royale for the first ascent. Ethan sent minutes later. Ethan suggested that it was hard for v12.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Feature Boulder (aka Fred N...
By: RTM When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My buddy Jon Browning was projecting this climb to do the First Ascent. One day, I brought Fred Nicole and his crew up to the Underground. I left for just a second to go to the bathroom, and when I came back, Fred was topping out Jon's project. Ooops! To smooth things over, I had to give up a line that I had FA dibs on - 4:20 At the Underground. Jon was happy with that tradeoff!
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Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : The Tramway : Year of the Cat Gully : Year of the Cat Boulder : The Persistance of Time aka... (V6)
By: RTM When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: this climb seems to have migrated to the right a bit from the original path.I hear people say that its a bit easier. Either way tho offers a good challenge.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - SW Face : ... : Right Between the Eyes (5.7)
By: RTM When: Mar 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Back in 1992, with Vogel's difinitive 1992 guide hot off the press and in my hands, I went to climb this route. Somehow, I got off course and ended up climbing the straight up crack in the middle of the wall. It was sort of a flaring crack/open book type feature. My gear was sketchy (prolly just had hexes and wires), the rock was scabby and rotten, and I was mortified. Whether this was an FA or not, who knows, but I wouldn't recomment it to my worst enemy. Maybe 5.8 or 5.9
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Geology Tour Road Boulderin... : Virgin Islands Area : ... : Modern Ills Boulder
By: RTM When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Screwed that one up, I did! The day I went to those, it was really hot, uhh, the sun was in my eye, my compass got dirt in it, I tripped on a turtle hole, there was a bee chasing me...
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Lost Horse Bouldering : Jimmy Cliff Area : ... : Dummy Up (V3)
By: RTM When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: felt like a 2 to me!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Geology Tour Road Boulderin... : Virgin Islands Area : ... : Ten Years Gone (V5)
By: RTM When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this pile a few years before the 1st edition miramontes guide came out. Wasn't sure if it was an FA, so I left it unclaimed. Ten years later and no suitors, so I claimed it! Have you claimed it Chris? Or did you just name it??
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Geology Tour Road Boulderin... : Virgin Islands Area : ... : Hidden Crack (V3)
By: RTM When: Mar 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: listed as the Shark Fin Crack in the guide, .9 stand, v3 sit.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Indian Cove Bouldering : Indian Cove CG : Callous Boulder
By: RTM When: Mar 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: whoa, coincidence! I just bouldered these problems a couple of months back.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Queen Mountain Bouldering : The Underground : ... : Body and Soul (V5)
By: RTM When: Mar 12, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Point taken! Didn't seem contrived "back in the day", because the whole concave on the right was rotten, scabby, and best avoided. Any stemming on the right does changes the original line. It's all good tho, I'm just psyched to see people having a good time out there!!
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Mount Rubidoux : Cross Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: RTM When: Mar 6, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good to know he's still alive!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Barker Dam Area : The Oven Mitt
By: RTM When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Native rock art can be found along the base of this crag, not sure where in relation to the routes though. Keep in mind that it is illegal to climb within 50ft of rock art, in all directions.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : Incandescent (5.8)
By: RTM When: Feb 23, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route, great water polished rock. I found it to be considerably easier than Electralux.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Bear Island : Shardik (5.3)
By: RTM When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: uhhhh, Vogel's 1992 guide and Joshua Tree West(Vogel) both rates this one 5.3
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Little Hunk : Little Hunk - NE Face : ... : New Deal (5.14a)
By: RTM When: Jan 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Retro-bragging? If Scott felt it was .14 when he put it up, then why did he rate it .13d? I mean, Alan's opinion has value, but I wouldn't take it as gospel. Besides, Josh is modeled after oldschool standards, not modern sportclimbing!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Real Hidden Valley Boulderi... : Turtle Rock Circuit : Shipwreck Boulder
By: RTM When: Jan 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like the Park Service has moved the sign to over by Block Party, which is where it should be, because thats where the rock art is!
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