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Rock Climbing Photo: Great jug hauling at the start Wake and Bake (5.11...


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 211
Total Points: 2,817
Last Year: 302
Last 30 Days: 24
123 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1810 | Routes 64 | Areas 10 | Photos 390 | Page Improvements | Comments 97 | Posts 24 | Stars 945 | Ratings 280
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : SOL Man (aka Not In the End... (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Aggreed George, definitely be careful. I have 2 70m ropes and one is a least 10' shorter than the other one. I used the longer rope when doing the route. Don't know if my shorter 70 reaches. Some ropes also shrink a bit over time and rope stretch/elasticity is another variable in the equation. This pitch is a REAL ROPE STRETCHER!! Knot that end and be careful all.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Choppo's Chimney (WI4+) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: Whoops....
Mixed them up!
I did do Choppo's that day.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Glad that it's not too much harder (is it reachy?). Andre and Matt told me about that hold breaking. Good to see that some more NM glue has gone away!!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Violince Wall : "Number 3" (5.11d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Our whole group all agreed that this group on the right side of the wall were all worth doing and got better as you went right. Starting at Ferocity (.11a/b or so) they each got a letter grade harder as you went. All 4 are good technical face routes on perfect pocketed stone. Ed also thought that the .13 to the right (Wild Dueces)was the best thing he did all weekend!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Maybe not
Cody told Ed he never got it. Likewise, Timmy also said he never actually finished it either and Ed is still trying on occasion (might go next week if conditions are right). So it seems like when Ben worked it for a few days and sent it last February that that is the actual FA .


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a... (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: I don't think we bolted this. Ed and I did it this weekend and don't remember it at all. It didn't have those sorta small "Lucky" hangers either which is usually a sure sign that one of us bolted something back in the 90s. Great route though. A must do in Diablo, really technical but not vey pumpy after the first move!

BTW until someone claims FA (maybe whoever bolted it didn't send it) I like calling it "UNA" - Un Named Arête


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.10c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: It does seem that the "cobbles of ill reput" dog tag is on goiter grabber right now. Either way I loved the route and the rating seemed close to what was on the tag so that people shouldn't get all freaked at the grade! The other 2 .10s that Susan and I did were just as good but we like the steeps better. We also did a .10c (pickled punks)at the sideshow cliff that was real good as well. As that turned out I could have done without getting stung by bees (had to finished the route though because ... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Sideshow Attraction Wall : Pickled Punks (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun route but there are some MEAN bees making a nest after 3rd bolt (8/3/14). Watch out!


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.10c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Seems to be confusion on this route and the next right one. The first route right of the 5.9 was in the sustained 5.10/10+ range and has the cobbles of ill reput name tag on it. It was one of the best i did that day. I'm guessing this one is "cobbles.....". There was another steep route to the right and maybe it is goitter grabber? That one has the. 5.8 to the right and could have an easier escape to the right. I didn't do the right of the 2. We need Jason to chime in and clarify or fix the orde... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Cobble Sutra (5.10a)
By: Rstrang When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Great addition Jason. It was pretty clean when Susan and I did it but not much chalk. I think in time it will become almost as good as the other routes on the wall. Definitly my new favorite easy 5.10 warm-up at el Rito since I haven't done it 50 times. I'm tempted to make it 3 stars just to bump the rating avg. up -2 1/2 stars for sure!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Winchester Cave : Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic route and a must do for its difference in style and exceptional rock. Unfortunately the right cold shut anchor is half worn through as of May 2014. It would be nice to see some new anchors on this classic. A fun, heady route but never desperate.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Dog Fight (a.k.a. Circa Man... (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I noticed that a few weeks ago but didn't know for sure since I haven't been there since that FA day. Real name is DOG FIGHT (mine and Thad's dog got into a little tussle with a few other dogs while we were all climbing)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Micro Burst (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: My 2nd favorite of the weekend (TYD trumps ALL). Pretty fun to alternate between techy face moves and tufa climbing.
Rock is very good now-can't wait till next Xmas to look at the extention.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Way 'Stead (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route!!!
Powerfull big moves on cool holds and Tufas.
Doesn't get much better!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: +1 to above
Possibly the best 5.11 I've ever done!!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Rain Day (5.11)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: One REALLY difficult move around a bunch of very cool climbing. Felt to me like another one of the "dreaded .11s" . If it's hot and sunny the move off the sloppy crimp feels 5.12ish - the rest of the route is awesome cool stuff.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *The Homestead : Tufa City : Canned Heat (5.11b)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Not a good warm-up (IMO). In your face at the first 3 bolts and if it's in the sun, the crimpy edges are kinda tough! Really a quality route though so maybe save it for late afternoon.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The original start was the corner proper (nice black varnished rock) with a couple good finger layback moves (.5 camalot) to some rounded holds which get you onto the ramp that continues up the main corner. Easier hands/wide hands follows and then the stem section on the smooth black face/corner
Nice job on the send Eric


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Castor (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Really cool route! After a tough start it eases some but stays on you till the end. Never desperate but NEVER easy and you won't forget the last move!!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulin Tower Area : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Definitely give this one love. One of the better routes that I've done at Capulin. (IMO) cool stemming features


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Three star route for now but when it cleans up it could become a MUST DO route in New Mexico. I can't remember when I've ever been as scared climbing over loose car sized blocks (those are gone now) as I was when Josh and I first climbed this. Josh was "The Man " that day climbing over those things on the sharp end! Very cool & unique line though, give it a try with care.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Endurance (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Hey Jason,
Mike said he had no name for this route but he liked the name "Endurance"


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Tupper-Where (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: I was talking with Mike today and the name should be
Tupper-Where - 5.11+ seems a good grade since the general consensus seems to think its harder than most of the .11s but not 5.12
FA Mike Tupper


Location: NM
By: Rstrang When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: I did about 10 - 1 pitch routes around there in 1995/96. Most were up in the canyon just east of the picnic spot before you get to Ghost Ranch. Some fun stuff and I keep meaning to get back there before I post anything. Some cool Indian Creek style lines but shorter and the rock is MUCH softer (like Arches). The best were a 70' 5.9 way back in the canyon. Ed and I did a cool 5.10 hand crack with a culter formation start (bolt for protection) on the furthest south formation( on the north side). I... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Heat Seeker (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: That's Suntoucher that you were on
Suntoucher weaves around the Heat Seeker roof arête and then contiues straight up the 5.10 faces. 5.11 Headwall up high is pretty hard and there's some ugly blocks to climb over


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