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Great jug hauling at the start Wake and Bake (5.11...


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 20 hours ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1644 | Routes 57 | Areas 9 | Photos 346 | Page Improvements | Comments 79 | Posts 23 | Stars 882 | Ratings 248
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : Claim Jumper (5.12b/c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The beginning slab on this route is still a bit flakey and dirty making for less than 4 star climbing. Hopefully as it sees more traffic this will become a must do route. The upper climbing from the overhanging dihedral to the chains is on exceptional rock. As the start cleans up this route could certainly become a 4 star climb like New Beginning to the right!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Yeah Mike, I'm sure your right on the grade. Ed had it at solid .13d after he did it. Awesome to see you're down there again and adding some more information to the database


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Buck Up (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Agreed Aaron. I always thought the first pitch was a good route by itself! The 2nd pitch is icing on the cake and one of the MUST DO pitches at Capulun!!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C... : Trojan Horse (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a LONG pitch! A 60M rope may just get you down with rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end to be safe! Alternately the belayer can walk up the hill to gain a few feet or the climber could climb over to the upper belay ledge below the terraces.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C... : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: If it is Mike, we'll look into fixing it up. From the Black Steak there was a line of bolts moving left from the bottom of the big flake which was hard .12 to the first anchor- the easier line (furthest right line of bolts) - went up the flake to chains right under the roof. The first pitch was clean, we didn't go higher. From the chains it moved right and up and it looked uncleaned. Did you climb above the first chains? Got a real name? There are now several lines right of the Big Flake route. ... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : In Bane (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: The Huge Flake at the top is the only detraction on this route. Climb on the right wall for 4 star climbing or tread lightly (it's TOO big to fall off anyway - I HOPE! - Just like the Block of Life at Diablo!!). Really fun route Lance.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : Bane (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: The "New-ish" extension makes this route much better than the original version. Cool, sequential, big moves to good holds. A real good warm-up


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : SOL Man (aka Not In the End... (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Aggreed George, definitely be careful. I have 2 70m ropes and one is a least 10' shorter than the other one. I used the longer rope when doing the route. Don't know if my shorter 70 reaches. Some ropes also shrink a bit over time and rope stretch/elasticity is another variable in the equation. This pitch is a REAL ROPE STRETCHER!! Knot that end and be careful all.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Choppo's Chimney (WI4-5) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: Whoops....
Mixed them up!
I did do Choppo's that day.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Glad that it's not too much harder (is it reachy?). Andre and Matt told me about that hold breaking. Good to see that some more NM glue has gone away!!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Violince Wall : "Number 3" (5.11d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Our whole group all agreed that this group on the right side of the wall were all worth doing and got better as you went right. Starting at Ferocity (.11a/b or so) they each got a letter grade harder as you went. All 4 are good technical face routes on perfect pocketed stone. Ed also thought that the .13 to the right (Wild Dueces)was the best thing he did all weekend!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Maybe not
Cody told Ed he never got it. Likewise, Timmy also said he never actually finished it either and Ed is still trying on occasion (might go next week if conditions are right). So it seems like when Ben worked it for a few days and sent it last February that that is the actual FA .


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Unnamed ArÍte (a.k.a. UNA) (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: I don't think we bolted this. Ed and I did it this weekend and don't remember it at all. It didn't have those sorta small "Lucky" hangers either which is usually a sure sign that one of us bolted something back in the 90s. Great route though. A must do in Diablo, really technical but not vey pumpy after the first move!

BTW until someone claims FA (maybe whoever bolted it didn't send it) I like calling it "UNA" - Un Named ArÍte


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: It does seem that the "cobbles of ill reput" dog tag is on goiter grabber right now. Either way I loved the route and the rating seemed close to what was on the tag so that people shouldn't get all freaked at the grade! The other 2 .10s that Susan and I did were just as good but we like the steeps better. We also did a .10c (pickled punks)at the sideshow cliff that was real good as well. As that turned out I could have done without getting stung by bees (had to finished the route though because ... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Sideshow Attraction Wall : Pickled Punks (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun route but there are some MEAN bees making a nest after 3rd bolt (8/3/14). Watch out!


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Seems to be confusion on this route and the next right one. The first route right of the 5.9 was in the sustained 5.10/10+ range and has the cobbles of ill reput name tag on it. It was one of the best i did that day. I'm guessing this one is "cobbles.....". There was another steep route to the right and maybe it is goitter grabber? That one has the. 5.8 to the right and could have an easier escape to the right. I didn't do the right of the 2. We need Jason to chime in and clarify or fix the orde... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Cobble Sutra (5.10a)
By: Rstrang When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Great addition Jason. It was pretty clean when Susan and I did it but not much chalk. I think in time it will become almost as good as the other routes on the wall. Definitly my new favorite easy 5.10 warm-up at el Rito since I haven't done it 50 times. I'm tempted to make it 3 stars just to bump the rating avg. up -2 1/2 stars for sure!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Winchester Cave : Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic route and a must do for its difference in style and exceptional rock. Unfortunately the right cold shut anchor is half worn through as of May 2014. It would be nice to see some new anchors on this classic. A fun, heady route but never desperate.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Dog Fight (5.10c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I noticed that a few weeks ago but didn't know for sure since I haven't been there since that FA day. Real name is DOG FIGHT (mine and Thad's dog got into a little tussle with a few other dogs while we were all climbing)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Micro Burst (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: My 2nd favorite of the weekend (TYD trumps ALL). Pretty fun to alternate between techy face moves and tufa climbing.
Rock is very good now-can't wait till next Xmas to look at the extention.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Way 'Stead (5.12)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route!!!
Powerfull big moves on cool holds and Tufas.
Doesn't get much better!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: +1 to above
Possibly the best 5.11 I've ever done!!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Rain Day (5.11)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: One REALLY difficult move around a bunch of very cool climbing. Felt to me like another one of the "dreaded .11s" . If it's hot and sunny the move off the sloppy crimp feels 5.12ish - the rest of the route is awesome cool stuff.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Canned Heat (5.11b)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Not a good warm-up (IMO). In your face at the first 3 bolts and if it's in the sun, the crimpy edges are kinda tough! Really a quality route though so maybe save it for late afternoon.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The original start was the corner proper (nice black varnished rock) with a couple good finger layback moves (.5 camalot) to some rounded holds which get you onto the ramp that continues up the main corner. Easier hands/wide hands follows and then the stem section on the smooth black face/corner
Nice job on the send Eric


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