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Rock Climbing Photo: Great jug hauling at the start Wake and Bake (5.11...


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 17 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 210
Total Points: 2,858
Last Year: 329
Last 30 Days: 43
123 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1819 | Routes 64 | Areas 10 | Photos 394 | Page Improvements | Comments 98 | Posts 24 | Stars 949 | Ratings 280
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : New Beginnings Wall : Vision Quest (5.10a)
By: Rstrang When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: This is an enjoyable route at the 5.9/5.10 grade. Nice features and good holds make for a fun moderate. It could still use alittle brushing and cleaning of the rock to the right of the climbing. That probably won't happen till next season.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Old Man and the Sea (ka) (5.13c)
By: Rstrang When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: The start is no longer "all fixed" but Old Man Direct into the finish is now the "fixed" line.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Old Man and The Sea(ka) (1s... (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: May 29, 2016

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Comments: This pitch is no longer "all fixed". It is the route left of the fixed chain draws on Morning Commute and Nate Dog. There are 7 hangers on the slab leading to the final 2 chain draws at the crux.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Old Man Direct (5.12)
By: Rstrang When: May 15, 2016

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Comments: Totally rad route! Probably the best 5.12 (along with New Beginning) in the Bat Cave area. Really cool fossilized pinches and edges. The holds keep getting smaller as the route gets steeper then you get the awesome pumpy tufa finish to Old Man and the Sea(ka) 1st pitch. It doesn't get much better! Start slightly right of the bolt line which is about 5 feet right of GlueFa(Bella Donna) -
2 black hangers need draws at the start, then follow 9 chain draws and finish on the 2 bolt mid anchor/lowerin... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Crystal Clear ArĂȘte (a.k.a... (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: Yeah!!
One of the better Diablo routes finally has a good name. Good move Jason.


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : North (Left) Face : Technowitch (5.12a) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: Apr 25, 2016

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Comments: CLASSIC!!
The good old days


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C... : The Odyssey (5.12a/b)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 7, 2016

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Comments: I climbed this in one MEGA 180' pitch!! Maybe not the best way since rope drag can be rough clipping the upper (crux) bolts. However its nice that the belayer doesn't have to climb if they are not following you. The best option is probably do the first 65' (Little Iliad) as the first pitch which finishes on a narrow ledge. Next climb the upper part of Iliad directly into The Odyssey. Another option is to belay at the top of The Iliad in a hanging belay. This works OK if the second is leading thr... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Super Hero Wall (Grey Wall) : Unknown (5.10a)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 14, 2016

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Comments: Hey Mike
I think this is the first part of Mega Man unless Lance recently put something else in. After the chains Mega Man goes up and left.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C...
By: Rstrang When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: "We found the rock in this area decidedly chossy, or at least choosy looking (to the point of scary)"

Huh???? Maybe you were looking at the wrong wall(all routes are left of the small caves). The easy .10 does still have a bunch of gravel and dirt to the right of the climbing but probably still hasn't had but 2 or 3 ascents! Illiad has been climbed a fair amount and is solid while Trojan Horse has probably been climbed less than 5 or 6 times. Super Hero wall is pretty good on some routes but ab... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C...
By: Rstrang When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: I finished bolting a 2nd pitch extension to Iliad/Trojan Horse today. Its not cleaned yet and has a few loose blocks so I left a red tag on the first bolt above the 1st pitch anchor. Hopefully I can get it finished up in the next month or 2. Also have plans for 2nd pitches to the left and right. Should be able to get a 3rd pitch in as well this season. The rock on this wall is sooooo good! These routes are really fun and LONG!!


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal... : Slopy Joe (aka King Cobble) (5.12c)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: This one's the best of the bunch and seems cleaner than the .11s. Some tough climbing down low then real cool moves past the giant cobbles! There's a unique, "meat hook" move off one big cobble and a pretty cool "super sloper" match. Watch the little bite at the end! A pumpy route for sure.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal... : Slopy Seconds (5.11c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: I added a few bolts and changed some. The route is looking a lot cleaner but the small foot chips still come off on occasion if you don't know where the solid stuff is. Give it some time and it will clean up (a year or 2 like all the other stuff!!)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal... : Slope-oke (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This one is closely bolted since the holds seem questionable (the hand holds are good though). The route could still use some more brushing and cleaning of small cobbles/rocks (it will get better in time with all this year's rain). The dangerous stuff is gone and its good to go with some easy cobble side pulling spread around 2 hardish sections. Another 2 star route that could be awesome in time. A helmet for the belayer is probably a good idea for the next few months.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (a.k.a. Pink Wal... : Slopy Seconds (5.11c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This ones kinda cleaned up and the bad big stuff is knocked off but a helmet for the belayer would be a good idea! The main handholds are solid but some small "un-used" holds could still break off. Small footholds will probably continue to break off throughout the year. Also, I may add a few bolts as well to make the "questionable rock" less scary for 5.11 climbers. It's probably a 2 star route now but IF it cleans up it could be great - really fun movement!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Yes Jason. The start (I think he's going to call it Chips Ahoy) is left of Shipwrecked and climbs difficult (5.13) moves through the steep start to the face which leads to the easier middle part of Shipwrecked. He then followed the Cast Away exit which he said became extra pumpy (Probably harder than .13a). He sent the whole route but wasn't going to post the start till he could pry some loose stuff from the bottom (might still get harder!)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Bull Horn : Finely Grained Hands (a.k.a... (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: One of the better routes at UEF. DO IT!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Bull Horn : Excrementally Weighted (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Good route but height dependent. 5.10 for over 5-9, 5.11 for under 5-5


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a)
By: Rstrang When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Great name Ed!!!
Still lots of climbing to be had in NM


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Rstrang When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: BUMMER!
Too late to find out where they are now since I'm leaving. Guess I'll go old school this weekend and have the thread the chains! Wish they were still in place. Plenty strong enough to lower thru.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : New Beginnings Wall : Claim Jumper (5.12b/c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The beginning slab on this route is still a bit flakey and dirty making for less than 4 star climbing. Hopefully as it sees more traffic this will become a must do route. The upper climbing from the overhanging dihedral to the chains is on exceptional rock. As the start cleans up this route could certainly become a 4 star climb like New Beginning to the right!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Yeah Mike, I'm sure your right on the grade. Ed had it at solid .13d after he did it. Awesome to see you're down there again and adding some more information to the database


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Buck Up (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Agreed Aaron. I always thought the first pitch was a good route by itself! The 2nd pitch is icing on the cake and one of the MUST DO pitches at Capulun!!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C... : Trojan Horse (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a LONG pitch! A 60M rope may just get you down with rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end to be safe! Alternately the belayer can walk up the hill to gain a few feet or the climber could climb over to the upper belay ledge below the terraces.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: If it is Mike, we'll look into fixing it up. From the Black Steak there was a line of bolts moving left from the bottom of the big flake which was hard .12 to the first anchor- the easier line (furthest right line of bolts) - went up the flake to chains right under the roof. The first pitch was clean, we didn't go higher. From the chains it moved right and up and it looked uncleaned. Did you climb above the first chains? Got a real name? There are now several lines right of the Big Flake route. ... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : New Beginnings Wall : In Bane (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: The Huge Flake at the top is the only detraction on this route. Climb on the right wall for 4 star climbing or tread lightly (it's TOO big to fall off anyway - I HOPE! - Just like the Block of Life at Diablo!!). Really fun route Lance.


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