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Great jug hauling at the start <br />Wake and Bake (5.11+)


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Rstrang


Point Rank: # 245
Total Points: 2,056
Last Year: 372
Last 30 Days: 20
157 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Rstrang been climbing?










Contributions


All (1383) | Routes (46) | Areas (7) | Photos (286) | Comments (61) | Posts (18) | Stars (757) | Ratings (208)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Dog Fight (5.10c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I noticed that a few weeks ago but didn't know for sure since I haven't been there since that FA day. Real name is DOG FIGHT (mine and Thad's dog got into a little tussle with a few other dogs while we were all climbing)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Micro Burst (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: My 2nd favorite of the weekend (TYD trumps ALL). Pretty fun to alternate between techy face moves and tufa climbing.
Rock is very good now-can't wait till next Xmas to look at the extention.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Way 'Stead (5.12)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route!!!
Powerfull big moves on cool holds and Tufas.
Doesn't get much better!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: +1 to above
Possibly the best 5.11 I've ever done!!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Rain Day (5.11)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: One REALLY difficult move around a bunch of very cool climbing. Felt to me like another one of the "dreaded .11s" . If it's hot and sunny the move off the sloppy crimp feels 5.12ish - the rest of the route is awesome cool stuff.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Canned Heat (5.11b)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Not a good warm-up (IMO). In your face at the first 3 bolts and if it's in the sun, the crimpy edges are kinda tough! Really a quality route though so maybe save it for late afternoon.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The original start was the corner proper (nice black varnished rock) with a couple good finger layback moves (.5 camalot) to some rounded holds which get you onto the ramp that continues up the main corner. Easier hands/wide hands follows and then the stem section on the smooth black face/corner
Nice job on the send Eric


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Castor (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Really cool route! After a tough start it eases some but stays on you till the end. Never desperate but NEVER easy and you won't forget the last move!!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : The Hinterlands : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Definitely give this one love. One of the better routes that I've done at Capulin. (IMO) cool stemming features


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Three star route for now but when it cleans up it could become a MUST DO route in New Mexico. I can't remember when I've ever been as scared climbing over loose car sized blocks (those are gone now) as I was when Josh and I first climbed this. Josh was "The Man " that day climbing over those things on the sharp end! Very cool & unique line though, give it a try with care.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Endurance (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Hey Jason,
Mike said he had no name for this route but he liked the name "Endurance"


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Shack / Standby Shack : Tupper-Where (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: I was talking with Mike today and the name should be
Tupper-Where - 5.11+ seems a good grade since the general consensus seems to think its harder than most of the .11s but not 5.12
FA Mike Tupper


Location: NM
By: Rstrang When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: I did about 10 - 1 pitch routes around there in 1995/96. Most were up in the canyon just east of the picnic spot before you get to Ghost Ranch. Some fun stuff and I keep meaning to get back there before I post anything. Some cool Indian Creek style lines but shorter and the rock is MUCH softer (like Arches). The best were a 70' 5.9 way back in the canyon. Ed and I did a cool 5.10 hand crack with a culter formation start (bolt for protection) on the furthest south formation( on the north side). I... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Heat Seeker (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: That's Suntoucher that you were on
Suntoucher weaves around the Heat Seeker roof arÍte and then contiues straight up the 5.10 faces. 5.11 Headwall up high is pretty hard and there's some ugly blocks to climb over


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Rstrang When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Alert for The route Mike Wazowski!!

On 6/5/2013, the 5th(?) bolt which is at the start of the crux section had the nut pull off!! The bolt stud appears OK but if you're working this route ( I know some ABQ guys have been up there recently) then you'll need to bring a new nut and a wrench (old nut lost). The hanger is with one of the "fixed" draws on the 2nd bolt. Maybe try to scrape a flatter seat for the hanger if you fix it. Good Luck


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: Rstrang When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: On 6/5/2013, the 5th(?) bolt which is at the start of the crux section had the nut pull off!! The bolt stud appears OK but if you're working this route ( I know some ABQ guys have been up there recently) then you'll need to bring a new nut and a wrench (old nut lost). The hanger is with one of the "fixed" draws on the 2nd bolt. Maybe try to scrape a flatter seat for the hanger if you fix it. Good Luck.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Pegasus (5.12a) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: WOW!
No flake would make that part (clip) a bit more spicy. I guess the smaller left hand flake would take the abuse then


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Funkmaster Afro Groove (5.14b/c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Congratulations Cody
Glad you got it done before the heat-it was pretty warm there this past weekend


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Tufa Wall : Tufa Consequences (5.10)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Though a bit short, this route has such unique climbing that it's a must do and therefore gets 4 stars for the bat cave area routes


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Tufa Wall
By: Rstrang When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: There are 4 excellent routes on the wall now as well as a TR climb (Wishbone Left). The routes on either side of the tufa routes are actually quite long and sustained. Still plenty of room for more stuff, Ed has some cleaning bolts on the bulging white wall and I've still got plans for a steep one just left of Slither as well as maybe a few more moderates.
There is also some good potential for some easy and moderate stuff (5.9-5.11) on the next cliff section that is 200 feet north of this wall... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Tufa Wall : Fa-Lufa-AKA Tufa Lufa (5.11c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: Awesome fun climbing. The tufa pinches at the bottom were MADE for climbing and set up for perfect hand movement. The crimpy crux bulge is quite entertaining especially with the pump factor.
As with Tufa Consequences this route is short but with unique climbing. Definitely a 4 star must do route in the bat cave area.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Tufa Wall : Wishbone Right (5.10-)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 18, 2013

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Comments: This route is a real fun warm-up and will get a different set of anchors in the future. At present it climbs to anchors which are for Wishbone Left. Wishbone Left is a TR route right now and we haven't quite figured out the best start (ran out of time). The Wishbone Left direct start is out of character hard for the good 5.10/.11 climbing up high on Wishbone Left. Wishbone Left will probably share the first bolt or two of Wishbone Right and move up into a roof undercling then straight up to the... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Gopher Broke (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: We did the FA on Ground Hog Day and when we cleaned some upper loose stuff it broke 2 of the lower route hangers!!
All fixed now - enjoy!!!

The first half of the route makes a good 10a short pitch as well and can be lowered with a single rope


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Gopher Broke (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 3, 2013

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Comments: I thought the route was trickier than Grape Ape but not quite so pumpy. I'll let the consensus votes bump it up to .10d. It felt easy with the multiple rests. The rock was a lot better than I thought it was going to be and this could turn into the standard warm-up route along with Grape Ape. However, there's a lot of dirt on the holds that the wind would not let us brush off so this route could use several days or weeks to clean up. The rock and holds are mostly real clean & solid.

Also use lon... more >>


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Beer Garden : Unknown Beer (4) (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 28, 2012

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Comments: I thought this was almost as good as Cutter. Another Last Chance must do


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