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Great jug hauling at the start <br />Wake and Bake (5.11+)


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 241
Total Points: 2,233
Last Year: 307
Last 30 Days: 17
205 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1535 | Routes 49 | Areas 8 | Photos 311 | Page Improvements | Comments 68 | Posts 20 | Stars 848 | Ratings 231
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: Rstrang When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Maybe not
Cody told Ed he never got it. Likewise, Timmy also said he never actually finished it either and Ed is still trying on occasion (might go next week if conditions are right). So it seems like when Ben worked it for a few days and sent it last February that that is the actual FA .


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Unnamed ArÍte (a.k.a. UNA) (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: I don't think we bolted this. Ed and I did it this weekend and don't remember it at all. It didn't have those sorta small "Lucky" hangers either which is usually a sure sign that one of us bolted something back in the 90s. Great route though. A must do in Diablo, really technical but not vey pumpy after the first move!

BTW until someone claims FA (maybe whoever bolted it didn't send it) I like calling it "UNA" - Un Named ArÍte


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: It does seem that the "cobbles of ill reput" dog tag is on goiter grabber right now. Either way I loved the route and the rating seemed close to what was on the tag so that people shouldn't get all freaked at the grade! The other 2 .10s that Susan and I did were just as good but we like the steeps better. We also did a .10c (pickled punks)at the sideshow cliff that was real good as well. As that turned out I could have done without getting stung by bees (had to finished the route though because ... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Sideshow Attraction Wall : Pickled Punks (5.10c)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Fun route but there are some MEAN bees making a nest after 3rd bolt (8/3/14). Watch out!


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: Seems to be confusion on this route and the next right one. The first route right of the 5.9 was in the sustained 5.10/10+ range and has the cobbles of ill reput name tag on it. It was one of the best i did that day. I'm guessing this one is "cobbles.....". There was another steep route to the right and maybe it is goitter grabber? That one has the. 5.8 to the right and could have an easier escape to the right. I didn't do the right of the 2. We need Jason to chime in and clarify or fix the orde... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Big Pine Wall : Cobble Sutra (5.10a)
By: Rstrang When: Jun 8, 2014

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Comments: Great addition Jason. It was pretty clean when Susan and I did it but not much chalk. I think in time it will become almost as good as the other routes on the wall. Definitly my new favorite easy 5.10 warm-up at el Rito since I haven't done it 50 times. I'm tempted to make it 3 stars just to bump the rating avg. up -2 1/2 stars for sure!


Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Winchester Cave : Ricochet (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is a fantastic route and a must do for its difference in style and exceptional rock. Unfortunately the right cold shut anchor is half worn through as of May 2014. It would be nice to see some new anchors on this classic. A fun, heady route but never desperate.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Global Village : Dog Fight (5.10c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: Yeah I noticed that a few weeks ago but didn't know for sure since I haven't been there since that FA day. Real name is DOG FIGHT (mine and Thad's dog got into a little tussle with a few other dogs while we were all climbing)


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Micro Burst (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: My 2nd favorite of the weekend (TYD trumps ALL). Pretty fun to alternate between techy face moves and tufa climbing.
Rock is very good now-can't wait till next Xmas to look at the extention.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Way 'Stead (5.12)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Awesome route!!!
Powerfull big moves on cool holds and Tufas.
Doesn't get much better!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Tufa Yard Dash (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: +1 to above
Possibly the best 5.11 I've ever done!!!!


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Rain Day (5.11)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: One REALLY difficult move around a bunch of very cool climbing. Felt to me like another one of the "dreaded .11s" . If it's hot and sunny the move off the sloppy crimp feels 5.12ish - the rest of the route is awesome cool stuff.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Homestead : Tufa City : Canned Heat (5.11b)
By: Rstrang When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Not a good warm-up (IMO). In your face at the first 3 bolts and if it's in the sun, the crimpy edges are kinda tough! Really a quality route though so maybe save it for late afternoon.


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Beasts of the Northern Wild (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The original start was the corner proper (nice black varnished rock) with a couple good finger layback moves (.5 camalot) to some rounded holds which get you onto the ramp that continues up the main corner. Easier hands/wide hands follows and then the stem section on the smooth black face/corner
Nice job on the send Eric


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Capulet Side Canyon : Castor (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 10, 2013

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Comments: Really cool route! After a tough start it eases some but stays on you till the end. Never desperate but NEVER easy and you won't forget the last move!!


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : The Hinterlands : The Viking (5.10+)
By: Rstrang When: Nov 3, 2013

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Comments: Definitely give this one love. One of the better routes that I've done at Capulin. (IMO) cool stemming features


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Full Monty (5.10-)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 29, 2013

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Comments: Three star route for now but when it cleans up it could become a MUST DO route in New Mexico. I can't remember when I've ever been as scared climbing over loose car sized blocks (those are gone now) as I was when Josh and I first climbed this. Josh was "The Man " that day climbing over those things on the sharp end! Very cool & unique line though, give it a try with care.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renegade Sector : Endurance (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: Hey Jason,
Mike said he had no name for this route but he liked the name "Endurance"


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Standby Shack (a.k.a. T... : Renegade Sector : Tupper-Where (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 29, 2013

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Comments: I was talking with Mike today and the name should be
Tupper-Where - 5.11+ seems a good grade since the general consensus seems to think its harder than most of the .11s but not 5.12
FA Mike Tupper


Location: NM
By: Rstrang When: Sep 21, 2013

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Comments: I did about 10 - 1 pitch routes around there in 1995/96. Most were up in the canyon just east of the picnic spot before you get to Ghost Ranch. Some fun stuff and I keep meaning to get back there before I post anything. Some cool Indian Creek style lines but shorter and the rock is MUCH softer (like Arches). The best were a 70' 5.9 way back in the canyon. Ed and I did a cool 5.10 hand crack with a culter formation start (bolt for protection) on the furthest south formation( on the north side). I... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Sun Devil Wall : Heat Seeker (5.11-)
By: Rstrang When: Jul 29, 2013

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Comments: That's Suntoucher that you were on
Suntoucher weaves around the Heat Seeker roof arÍte and then contiues straight up the 5.10 faces. 5.11 Headwall up high is pretty hard and there's some ugly blocks to climb over


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall
By: Rstrang When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: Alert for The route Mike Wazowski!!

On 6/5/2013, the 5th(?) bolt which is at the start of the crux section had the nut pull off!! The bolt stud appears OK but if you're working this route ( I know some ABQ guys have been up there recently) then you'll need to bring a new nut and a wrench (old nut lost). The hanger is with one of the "fixed" draws on the 2nd bolt. Maybe try to scrape a flatter seat for the hanger if you fix it. Good Luck


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Mike Wazowski (of Monsters ... (5.13+)
By: Rstrang When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: On 6/5/2013, the 5th(?) bolt which is at the start of the crux section had the nut pull off!! The bolt stud appears OK but if you're working this route ( I know some ABQ guys have been up there recently) then you'll need to bring a new nut and a wrench (old nut lost). The hanger is with one of the "fixed" draws on the 2nd bolt. Maybe try to scrape a flatter seat for the hanger if you fix it. Good Luck.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : Pegasus (5.12a) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: May 27, 2013

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Comments: WOW!
No flake would make that part (clip) a bit more spicy. I guess the smaller left hand flake would take the abuse then


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : Funkmaster Afro Groove (5.14b/c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 19, 2013

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Comments: Congratulations Cody
Glad you got it done before the heat-it was pretty warm there this past weekend


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