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Rock Climbing Photo: Great jug hauling at the start Wake and Bake (5.11...


Member Since: Jul 19, 2010
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
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Point Rank: # 226
Total Points: 2,625
Last Year: 286
Last 30 Days: 36
113 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1743 | Routes 59 | Areas 10 | Photos 359 | Page Improvements | Comments 90 | Posts 23 | Stars 928 | Ratings 274
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C...
By: Rstrang When: Jan 18, 2016

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Comments: "We found the rock in this area decidedly chossy, or at least choosy looking (to the point of scary)"

Huh???? Maybe you were looking at the wrong wall(all routes are left of the small caves). The easy .10 does still have a bunch of gravel and dirt to the right of the climbing but probably still hasn't had but 2 or 3 ascents! Illiad has been climbed a fair amount and is solid while Trojan Horse has probably been climbed less than 5 or 6 times. Super Hero wall is pretty good on some routes but ab... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C...
By: Rstrang When: Dec 6, 2015

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Comments: I finished bolting a 2nd pitch extension to Iliad/Trojan Horse today. Its not cleaned yet and has a few loose blocks so I left a red tag on the first bolt above the 1st pitch anchor. Hopefully I can get it finished up in the next month or 2. Also have plans for 2nd pitches to the left and right. Should be able to get a 3rd pitch in as well this season. The rock on this wall is sooooo good! These routes are really fun and LONG!!


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (The Pink Wall) : Slopy Joe (aka King Cobble) (5.12c)
By: Rstrang When: Sep 6, 2015

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Comments: This one's the best of the bunch and seems cleaner than the .11s. Some tough climbing down low then real cool moves past the giant cobbles! There's a unique, "meat hook" move off one big cobble and a pretty cool "super sloper" match. Watch the little bite at the end! A pumpy route for sure.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (The Pink Wall) : Slopy Seconds (5.11c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 8, 2015

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Comments: I added a few bolts and changed some. The route is looking a lot cleaner but the small foot chips still come off on occasion if you don't know where the solid stuff is. Give it some time and it will clean up (a year or 2 like all the other stuff!!)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (The Pink Wall) : Slope-oke (5.11c)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This one is closely bolted since the holds seem questionable (the hand holds are good though). The route could still use some more brushing and cleaning of small cobbles/rocks (it will get better in time with all this year's rain). The dangerous stuff is gone and its good to go with some easy cobble side pulling spread around 2 hardish sections. Another 2 star route that could be awesome in time. A helmet for the belayer is probably a good idea for the next few months.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Slope City (The Pink Wall) : Slopy Seconds (5.11c/d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: This ones kinda cleaned up and the bad big stuff is knocked off but a helmet for the belayer would be a good idea! The main handholds are solid but some small "un-used" holds could still break off. Small footholds will probably continue to break off throughout the year. Also, I may add a few bolts as well to make the "questionable rock" less scary for 5.11 climbers. It's probably a 2 star route now but IF it cleans up it could be great - really fun movement!


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: Jun 11, 2015

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Comments: Yes Jason. The start (I think he's going to call it Chips Ahoy) is left of Shipwrecked and climbs difficult (5.13) moves through the steep start to the face which leads to the easier middle part of Shipwrecked. He then followed the Cast Away exit which he said became extra pumpy (Probably harder than .13a). He sent the whole route but wasn't going to post the start till he could pry some loose stuff from the bottom (might still get harder!)


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Bull Horn : Finely Grained Hands (a.k.a... (5.11a)
By: Rstrang When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: One of the better routes at UEF. DO IT!


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork (UEF) : The Bull Horn : Excrementally Weighted (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Good route but height dependent. 5.10 for over 5-9, 5.11 for under 5-5


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : South/Southeast (Right) Fac... : Cast Away (5.13a)
By: Rstrang When: May 31, 2015

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Comments: Great name Ed!!!
Still lots of climbing to be had in NM


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Rstrang When: Mar 27, 2015

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Comments: BUMMER!
Too late to find out where they are now since I'm leaving. Guess I'll go old school this weekend and have the thread the chains! Wish they were still in place. Plenty strong enough to lower thru.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : Claim Jumper (5.12b/c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 10, 2015

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Comments: The beginning slab on this route is still a bit flakey and dirty making for less than 4 star climbing. Hopefully as it sees more traffic this will become a must do route. The upper climbing from the overhanging dihedral to the chains is on exceptional rock. As the start cleans up this route could certainly become a 4 star climb like New Beginning to the right!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Funk (5.13c)
By: Rstrang When: Mar 2, 2015

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Comments: Yeah Mike, I'm sure your right on the grade. Ed had it at solid .13d after he did it. Awesome to see you're down there again and adding some more information to the database


Location: NM : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Capulin Canyon : Upper Wall : Buck Up (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Agreed Aaron. I always thought the first pitch was a good route by itself! The 2nd pitch is icing on the cake and one of the MUST DO pitches at Capulun!!


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Trojan Wall (Right of Bat C... : Trojan Horse (5.11+)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: This is a LONG pitch! A 60M rope may just get you down with rope stretch. Tie a knot in the end to be safe! Alternately the belayer can walk up the hill to gain a few feet or the climber could climb over to the upper belay ledge below the terraces.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Bat Cave : The Big Flake (5.10)
By: Rstrang When: Feb 9, 2015

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Comments: If it is Mike, we'll look into fixing it up. From the Black Steak there was a line of bolts moving left from the bottom of the big flake which was hard .12 to the first anchor- the easier line (furthest right line of bolts) - went up the flake to chains right under the roof. The first pitch was clean, we didn't go higher. From the chains it moved right and up and it looked uncleaned. Did you climb above the first chains? Got a real name? There are now several lines right of the Big Flake route. ... more >>


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : In Bane (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: The Huge Flake at the top is the only detraction on this route. Climb on the right wall for 4 star climbing or tread lightly (it's TOO big to fall off anyway - I HOPE! - Just like the Block of Life at Diablo!!). Really fun route Lance.


Location: NM : Truth or Consequences Area : Caballo Lake : Bat Cave Area : Left of the Bat Cave : Bane (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: The "New-ish" extension makes this route much better than the original version. Cool, sequential, big moves to good holds. A real good warm-up


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : SOL Man (aka Not In the End... (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 29, 2014

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Comments: Aggreed George, definitely be careful. I have 2 70m ropes and one is a least 10' shorter than the other one. I used the longer rope when doing the route. Don't know if my shorter 70 reaches. Some ropes also shrink a bit over time and rope stretch/elasticity is another variable in the equation. This pitch is a REAL ROPE STRETCHER!! Knot that end and be careful all.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Choppo's Chimney (WI4-5) : Photo
By: Rstrang When: Dec 25, 2014

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Comments: Whoops....
Mixed them up!
I did do Choppo's that day.


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Solstice Cave : Eternal Sunshine (5.12a)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: Glad that it's not too much harder (is it reachy?). Andre and Matt told me about that hold breaking. Good to see that some more NM glue has gone away!!


Location: NM : New Mexico, other Southern ... : Last Chance Canyon : Violince Wall : "Number 3" (5.11d)
By: Rstrang When: Dec 1, 2014

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Comments: Our whole group all agreed that this group on the right side of the wall were all worth doing and got better as you went right. Starting at Ferocity (.11a/b or so) they each got a letter grade harder as you went. All 4 are good technical face routes on perfect pocketed stone. Ed also thought that the .13 to the right (Wild Dueces)was the best thing he did all weekend!


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 21, 2014

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Comments: Maybe not
Cody told Ed he never got it. Likewise, Timmy also said he never actually finished it either and Ed is still trying on occasion (might go next week if conditions are right). So it seems like when Ben worked it for a few days and sent it last February that that is the actual FA .


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Unnamed ArĂȘte (a.k.a. UNA) (5.12b)
By: Rstrang When: Oct 14, 2014

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Comments: I don't think we bolted this. Ed and I did it this weekend and don't remember it at all. It didn't have those sorta small "Lucky" hangers either which is usually a sure sign that one of us bolted something back in the 90s. Great route though. A must do in Diablo, really technical but not vey pumpy after the first move!

BTW until someone claims FA (maybe whoever bolted it didn't send it) I like calling it "UNA" - Un Named ArĂȘte


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.10d)
By: Rstrang When: Aug 4, 2014

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Comments: It does seem that the "cobbles of ill reput" dog tag is on goiter grabber right now. Either way I loved the route and the rating seemed close to what was on the tag so that people shouldn't get all freaked at the grade! The other 2 .10s that Susan and I did were just as good but we like the steeps better. We also did a .10c (pickled punks)at the sideshow cliff that was real good as well. As that turned out I could have done without getting stung by bees (had to finished the route though because ... more >>


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