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Member Since: Dec 5, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact rpc


Point Rank: # 916
Total Points: 643
Last Year: 19
Last 30 Days: 10
102 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has rpc been climbing?










Contributions


All (777) | Routes (12) | Areas | Photos (82) | Comments (113) | Posts (110) | Stars (460) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: I also thought it was harder than Bloody Fingers and not as good.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Cornercopia (5.10b)
By: rpc When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: Seems to have 2 distinct cruxes as mentioned - getting past the bolt at the bottom & getting the anchors (2 moves at top). The bird shit has been cleaning up nicely over the past year.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Start (crux) seemed easy for me but my wife disagreed - I'm 6'7" & she's 5'3" (maybe that's the reason :)....I could definitely reach up to some jugs.
Did 1st 2 pitches at the end of a day then rapped. Nice climbing on those.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route! Picked a wrong crack on topo's pitch 6 (went too far left for whatever reason).


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sunrise Book (5.12-)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!).


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: A GREAT line! Here's my "lay of the land" type "topo":

www.summitpost.org/view_object.php?object_id=64229


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Fun climb. My wife & I did this on a 3day weekend from Portland and so I mostly remember the driving :)
Another vote for Brutus' topo on summitpost above (excellent!).


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo... (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: A spectacular line - best we've done so far on the Liberty Bell Group (but have not done West Face yet).


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : West Ridge (5.7)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: My wife & I did this in a car-to-car effort the summer we started climbing. A nice route up a great peak.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Serpentine Ridge (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Did this one a year before doing Backbone (2005). Climbing was OK but much more loose stuff than on Backbone (I thought) & the best pitches here did not compare to best ones on its neighbor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: rpc When: Mar 19, 2008

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Comments: thanks Karsten - it was a very nice route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Mar 19, 2008

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Comments: Yeah 2 trips wasted (0 climbing) due to injuries. Once we drove (50 hrs r.t. from Portland) & this time we flew also for nothing but an ER visit. Cursed I guess. Did have our share of great climbing in Cochise and so that keeps us coming back :)
Great area - lucky you to live so close to it! cheers.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Mar 19, 2008

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Comments: thanks Bill - didn't realize that once the muscles tensed up around the dislocated joint it would hurt that much. Certainly memorable :) I posted a TR of this little misadventure on summitpost, www.summitpost.org/trip-report/354018/The-Shit-Times.html
take care.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Mar 18, 2008

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Comments: We must climb too many bat/pigeon/swallow shit-filled cracks of Smith since I did not notice anything but pristine rock on this :) ? Thought it was a great if short line.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Mar 18, 2008

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Comments: Bill,
thanks. A reset in the ER & was good to go in about a week. No, nothing really out of the ordinary - weird sidepull (probably unnecessary) and then I heard the "pop" and was airborne. Thought a hold broke before the pain hit :) First time it happened to me....I'm sure the guys around the corner got a good audio show. Cheers.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Refrigerator Wall : La Cierta Edad (5.10d)
By: rpc When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: My wife & I climed it this February. An amazing route - probably our favorite RR outing to date. Rap gully to the right had ice in it which kept coming off all day long -- felt almost alpine :)
Given that we were able to get the thing cleanly, I'd sort of go with a 10- rating. Maybe you'll laugh, but I found Sour Mash significantly harder (not so good at face climbing).


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Star Wall : Turning Point (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Mar 13, 2008

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Comments: "When I was on it a few years ago there was no anchor on top, I traveresed to the Mantra anchor to get off. "

that's still the case as of March 08.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Lower Gorge : West Side : Wildfire Wall : Rim Job (5.10b)
By: rpc When: Mar 12, 2008

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Comments: Easier for tall folks (I'm over 6'); my wife at 5'3" had a tougher time on this one. One or two thin moves, then a good jug/rest.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Stampede (5.11a)
By: rpc When: Mar 12, 2008

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Comments: Beautiful topos for Cochise routes. Thanks for the effort!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Mesa Verde Wall : Trezlar (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Mar 5, 2008

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Comments: "There is a scary flake that you can't avoid about half way up the pitch. It is cracked on all four sides. I don't want to be there when that thing goes... it'll go right on your belayer :( The flake gave me the creeps and definitely lessened the quality of the pitch for me."

Yup - had same thoughts.

I've led this route. My wife led this route. We're done - never going back to it.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Gibraltar Rock : Sedona's Scenic Cruise (5.9)
By: rpc When: Feb 20, 2008

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Comments: Did the route 2 days ago with nothing but Greg's directions from here. Great info! Great route! Much thanks. The specified parking is still being used as a construction materials storage.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11)
By: rpc When: Nov 12, 2007

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Comments: S. Green book gives drastically different ratings than C. Burns' (kind of think Green was right on and Burns is way off).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Westworld Dome : Warpaint (5.10c PG13)
By: rpc When: Oct 26, 2007

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Comments: A GREAT route. I thought that the shallow pocket pulling at start of final pitch was harder than anything else on the route. Don't recall any runouts on it?


Location: TN : Foster Falls : Main Wall : Eclipse (5.12c) : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 18, 2007

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Comments: That's a lot of routes close together.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Black Orpheus Amphitheater : Black Orpheus (5.9+)
By: rpc When: Oct 8, 2007

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Comments: Great route! Gotta agree with the comments above though that somehow the last 2 pitches felt harder than the "real crux"? Is it because mentally you think you're done after that 9+ bolted move (which itself is quite reasonable if you're tall)? Or is the runout on the "5.5 slab"?


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