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Member Since: Dec 5, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Point Rank: # 972
Total Points: 680
Last Year: 47
Last 30 Days: 22
122 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rpc been climbing?










Contributions


All 865 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 88 | Page Improvements | Comments 120 | Posts 119 | Stars 526 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 14, 2008

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Comments: I second that Brad (how about that standing rock TR as well eh?).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Jul 23, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Brad!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Batwings (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Fixed tricam was no longer there. I don't think you can easily clip the top bolt on the Direct easily from this one - my wife led it and the bolt was waaaay out of reach (below & right). I'd guess this would be pretty exciting if .8's your limit. Great route!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 19, 2008

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Comments: Eric, thanks for the info. on the SW face. Sounds like the protection was reasonable? Looks like a great line!

BTW, here's what the old guidebooks say about the history of the SW a.k.a. W Face route: First ascent of this route made by J. Nieland, E. Dod in October 1967. First free ascent made by B. McGown and J. Thomas in July 1977.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: "Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "

Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).

Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: One of Don's lag bolts from his FA of the tower is in the upper right hand corner below (the other stuff is also from the route as it was in '04):



I think "cleaning up" the NE Face route would take away from its character. Seemed as though there were enough new/good bolts already to make it pretty stress free as it is.

E.R., if you liked Steins, you should check out the Turkey Monster...as well as some other Oregon towers:

http://www... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: rpc When: Jun 16, 2008

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Comments: For me, manteling from these belay bolts onto the next bolt was the crux of this route!




Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Salmon Song (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: A great route! Slabby start, easier-than-it-looks roof, fun thin hands crack that is just off-vertical enough not to be too pumpy. Tiers on the right was equally good IMHO.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: rpc When: May 28, 2008

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Comments: What a shot!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: rpc When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: My wife & I did this line this past weekend (very windy). A GREAT outing! Many thanks to Sam for the huge amount of work in fixing this line up! Also, Tyson A.'s topo was great - thanks. For what it's worth, what took me the most time to figure out was a move 10 feet below the intermediate belay on P3 (maybe a mid-sized tricam would've eased my stress there?).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: rpc When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: If this one is rated 10b/c, La Cierta Edad should be 9/10a in my humble opinion. 3rd pitch was hard & the 4th pitch was harder...maybe different climbing types suit different people but we really struggled on the last pitch. Beautiful climbing, rock & position though! Large cams seemed handy on 2nd pitch. Many thanks to Greg & Matt for replacing the bolts!!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Monkey Space (5.11b)
By: rpc When: Apr 4, 2008

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Comments: "what optional gear should be brought?"
CojbyJ. posted the info here:
summitpost.org/route/164404/mo...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : West Face (Aid) (Easy 5th C1)
By: rpc When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: I also thought it was harder than Bloody Fingers and not as good.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cornercopia (5.10b)
By: rpc When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: Seems to have 2 distinct cruxes as mentioned - getting past the bolt at the bottom & getting the anchors (2 moves at top). The bird shit has been cleaning up nicely over the past year.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Start (crux) seemed easy for me but my wife disagreed - I'm 6'7" & she's 5'3" (maybe that's the reason :)....I could definitely reach up to some jugs.
Did 1st 2 pitches at the end of a day then rapped. Nice climbing on those.


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Mountaineer's Route (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route! Picked a wrong crack on topo's pitch 6 (went too far left for whatever reason).


Location: ID : The Sawtooth Range : The Elephant's Perch : Sunrise Book (5.12-)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Great route! though I thought that P3 (.9+ on topo) was way harder than pitch 4 (10- on topo). Aided the 12 section & so P3 was the crux for us. Brad's TR on his page provided the initial inspiration for this line (thanks!).


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Wolfs Head : East Ridge (5.6)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: A GREAT line! Here's my "lay of the land" type "topo":

summitpost.org/view_object.php...


Location: WY : Wind River Range : Cirque of the Towers : Pingora : Northeast Face (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Fun climb. My wife & I did this on a 3day weekend from Portland and so I mostly remember the driving :)
Another vote for Brutus' topo on summitpost above (excellent!).


Location: WA : Northwest Region : North Cascades : Washington Pass : North Early Winter Spire : Northwest Corner (a.k.a. Bo... (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: A spectacular line - best we've done so far on the Liberty Bell Group (but have not done West Face yet).


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Prusik Peak : West Ridge (5.7)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: My wife & I did this in a car-to-car effort the summer we started climbing. A nice route up a great peak.


Location: WA : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : Icicle Creek : Dragontail Peak : Serpentine Ridge (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Did this one a year before doing Backbone (2005). Climbing was OK but much more loose stuff than on Backbone (I thought) & the best pitches here did not compare to best ones on its neighbor.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9) : Photo
By: rpc When: Mar 19, 2008

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Comments: thanks Karsten - it was a very nice route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Mar 19, 2008

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Comments: Yeah 2 trips wasted (0 climbing) due to injuries. Once we drove (50 hrs r.t. from Portland) & this time we flew also for nothing but an ER visit. Cursed I guess. Did have our share of great climbing in Cochise and so that keeps us coming back :)
Great area - lucky you to live so close to it! cheers.


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