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Member Since: Dec 5, 2005
Last Visit: 6 hours ago
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rpc
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Point Rank: # 1,097
Total Points: 701
Last Year: 11
Last 30 Days: 0
138 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rpc been climbing?










Contributions


All 923 | Routes 12 | Areas | Photos 91 | Page Improvements | Comments 126 | Posts 135 | Stars 559 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jan 30, 2009

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Comments: I might have placed a #4 C4 but I think that was mostly because I wanted to unload it. I THINK you could get away with up to blue Camalot as the OW constricts in the back & I recall placing couple of nuts actually.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Photo
By: rpc When: Jan 29, 2009

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Comments: right place, right time. Sweet shot Brad!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jan 26, 2009

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Comments: Great modern route! Pitch 2 is a real gem (slab, hand crack, chimney, finger crack, steep face!) but pitches 4 & 5 were also very cool we thought. Just to echo what others said, climbing felt hard for 5.9 (compared to Too Tough... which we did the day before & Absinthe IMHO). Thanks to Geir for another great topo.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10- PG13)
By: rpc When: Jan 26, 2009

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Comments: Very fun route, with the last 2 pitches being the funnest & I think pitch 2 being the crux. 3/4 stars at least (mostly due to the lower angle section on P3 & 4).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jan 7, 2009

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Comments: nice route. so what's the deal with the bolted crack line that heads off right from the base of the wedge?


Location: UT : Westwater Area : Mee Canyon : Arch Tower: Dry Heaves (5.10 A2- PG13) : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 6, 2008

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Comments: amazing looking tower! thanks for posting up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9) : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 5, 2008

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Comments: ..still have nightmares lingering 3 years later!


Location: rpc : tmp : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 5, 2008

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Comments: we're getting help :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Aeolian Tower : Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13) : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 21, 2008

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Comments: Interesting perspective...the thinness of the thing!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : The Painted Wall : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 14, 2008

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Comments: I second that Brad (how about that standing rock TR as well eh?).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Jul 23, 2008

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Comments: Thanks Brad!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Batwings (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Jun 23, 2008

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Comments: Fixed tricam was no longer there. I don't think you can easily clip the top bolt on the Direct easily from this one - my wife led it and the bolt was waaaay out of reach (below & right). I'd guess this would be pretty exciting if .8's your limit. Great route!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 19, 2008

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Comments: Eric, thanks for the info. on the SW face. Sounds like the protection was reasonable? Looks like a great line!

BTW, here's what the old guidebooks say about the history of the SW a.k.a. W Face route: First ascent of this route made by J. Nieland, E. Dod in October 1967. First free ascent made by B. McGown and J. Thomas in July 1977.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: "Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "

Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).

Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2 or 5.11a) (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008

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Comments: One of Don's lag bolts from his FA of the tower is in the upper right hand corner below (the other stuff is also from the route as it was in '04):



I think "cleaning up" the NE Face route would take away from its character. Seemed as though there were enough new/good bolts already to make it pretty stress free as it is.

E.R., if you liked Steins, you should check out the Turkey Monster...as well as some other Oregon towers:

www... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: rpc When: Jun 16, 2008

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Comments: For me, manteling from these belay bolts onto the next bolt was the crux of this route!




Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Salmon Song (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jun 5, 2008

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Comments: A great route! Slabby start, easier-than-it-looks roof, fun thin hands crack that is just off-vertical enough not to be too pumpy. Tiers on the right was equally good IMHO.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: rpc When: May 28, 2008

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Comments: What a shot!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C2+)
By: rpc When: Apr 21, 2008

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Comments: My wife & I did this line this past weekend (very windy). A GREAT outing! Many thanks to Sam for the huge amount of work in fixing this line up! Also, Tyson A.'s topo was great - thanks. For what it's worth, what took me the most time to figure out was a move 10 feet below the intermediate belay on P3 (maybe a mid-sized tricam would've eased my stress there?).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10+)
By: rpc When: Apr 7, 2008

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Comments: If this one is rated 10b/c, La Cierta Edad should be 9/10a in my humble opinion. 3rd pitch was hard & the 4th pitch was harder...maybe different climbing types suit different people but we really struggled on the last pitch. Beautiful climbing, rock & position though! Large cams seemed handy on 2nd pitch. Many thanks to Greg & Matt for replacing the bolts!!


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : Monkey Space (5.11b)
By: rpc When: Apr 4, 2008

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Comments: "what optional gear should be brought?"
CojbyJ. posted the info here:
summitpost.org/route/164404/mo...


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (s) Monkey Face : West Face (Aid) (Easy 5th C1)
By: rpc When: Mar 26, 2008

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Comments: Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - Northeas... : Thin Slice (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: I also thought it was harder than Bloody Fingers and not as good.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Smith Rock : (z) Lower Gorge : West Side : ... : Cornercopia (5.10b)
By: rpc When: Mar 25, 2008

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Comments: Seems to have 2 distinct cruxes as mentioned - getting past the bolt at the bottom & getting the anchors (2 moves at top). The bird shit has been cleaning up nicely over the past year.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Burlap Buttress : Arrow Place (5.9)
By: rpc When: Mar 21, 2008

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Comments: Start (crux) seemed easy for me but my wife disagreed - I'm 6'7" & she's 5'3" (maybe that's the reason :)....I could definitely reach up to some jugs.
Did 1st 2 pitches at the end of a day then rapped. Nice climbing on those.


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