Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Dec 5, 2005
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact rpc


Point Rank: # 914
Total Points: 644
Last Year: 110
Last 30 Days: 11
102 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has rpc been climbing?










Contributions


All (777) | Routes (12) | Areas | Photos (82) | Comments (113) | Posts (110) | Stars (460) | Ratings
Page 6 of 32.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Lockhart Basin : Amazon Tower : Amazon Tower - Original Rou... (5.11a A1+) : Photo
By: rpc When: Feb 24, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: that is some tower Brad - this is you last wknd's outing right? Damn!! very nice.


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Morning Glory Wall : Zebra/ Zion (5.10b) : Photo
By: rpc When: Feb 10, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: a great shot of this pitch!


Location: Bennett : Meteora, Greece. Corner of ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Feb 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: "while sizing up the chossy offwidth pitches "

did you finish it? got rained off from P1 last fall so never really saw the crack up close ("crack" on P1 was not promising...)


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jan 30, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: I might have placed a #4 C4 but I think that was mostly because I wanted to unload it. I THINK you could get away with up to blue Camalot as the OW constricts in the back & I recall placing couple of nuts actually.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Kane Springs Canyon : The Cirque of the Climbable... : Photo
By: rpc When: Jan 29, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: right place, right time. Sweet shot Brad!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Unknown (right of stampede) (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jan 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Great modern route! Pitch 2 is a real gem (slab, hand crack, chimney, finger crack, steep face!) but pitches 4 & 5 were also very cool we thought. Just to echo what others said, climbing felt hard for 5.9 (compared to Too Tough... which we did the day before & Absinthe IMHO). Thanks to Geir for another great topo.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : The Climb Too Tough To Die (5.10a PG13)
By: rpc When: Jan 26, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: Very fun route, with the last 2 pitches being the funnest & I think pitch 2 being the crux. 3/4 stars at least (mostly due to the lower angle section on P3 & 4).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : West Stronghold : Sheepshead Area (Southwest) : ... : Mystery of the Desert (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jan 7, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: nice route. so what's the deal with the bolted crack line that heads off right from the base of the wedge?


Location: UT : Westwater Area : Mee Canyon : Arch Tower: Dry Heaves (5.10 A2- PG13) : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 6, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: amazing looking tower! thanks for posting up.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9) : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: ..still have nightmares lingering 3 years later!


Location: rpc : tmp : Photo
By: rpc When: Dec 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: we're getting help :)


Location: UT : Moab Area : Tusher Canyon : Aeolian Tower : Etesian Hookup (5.9 A2 PG13) : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 21, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting perspective...the thinness of the thing!


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : The Painted Wall : Journey Through Mirkwood (5.11b/c) : Photo
By: rpc When: Oct 14, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I second that Brad (how about that standing rock TR as well eh?).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Rockfellow Group : ... : Photo
By: rpc When: Jul 23, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks Brad!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Parking Lot Rock : Parking Lot Rock - West : Batwings (5.8+)
By: rpc When: Jun 23, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Fixed tricam was no longer there. I don't think you can easily clip the top bolt on the Direct easily from this one - my wife led it and the bolt was waaaay out of reach (below & right). I'd guess this would be pretty exciting if .8's your limit. Great route!


Location: OR : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 19, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Eric, thanks for the info. on the SW face. Sounds like the protection was reasonable? Looks like a great line!

BTW, here's what the old guidebooks say about the history of the SW a.k.a. W Face route: First ascent of this route made by J. Nieland, E. Dod in October 1967. First free ascent made by B. McGown and J. Thomas in July 1977.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Coffeepot Rock Area : ... : Dr. Rubo's Wild Ride (5.9)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: "Interesting, I don't recall the rap being a problem. "

Yeah, I agree. I don't recall the rap being an issue? One shot with 2 ropes & you're on the ground (my photo above).

Is it because folks don't like to carry a 2nd rope?


Location: OR : Steins Pillar : NE Face (5.8 C2)
By: rpc When: Jun 18, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: One of Don's lag bolts from his FA of the tower is in the upper right hand corner below (the other stuff is also from the route as it was in '04):



I think "cleaning up" the NE Face route would take away from its character. Seemed as though there were enough new/good bolts already to make it pretty stress free as it is.

E.R., if you liked Steins, you should check out the Turkey Monster...as well as some other Oregon towers:

www... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Argon Tower : West Face (5.11) : Photo
By: rpc When: Jun 16, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: For me, manteling from these belay bolts onto the next bolt was the crux of this route!




Location: WA : Southeast Cascades & Yakima : Tieton River : The Bend : Bend West : Salmon Song (5.10a)
By: rpc When: Jun 5, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: A great route! Slabby start, easier-than-it-looks roof, fun thin hands crack that is just off-vertical enough not to be too pumpy. Tiers on the right was equally good IMHO.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a) : Photo
By: rpc When: May 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: What a shot!!!


Location: UT : Moab Area : Arches National Park : Tower of Babel : Zenyatta Entrada (5.4 C3)
By: rpc When: Apr 21, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: My wife & I did this line this past weekend (very windy). A GREAT outing! Many thanks to Sam for the huge amount of work in fixing this line up! Also, Tyson A.'s topo was great - thanks. For what it's worth, what took me the most time to figure out was a move 10 feet below the intermediate belay on P3 (maybe a mid-sized tricam would've eased my stress there?).


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b)
By: rpc When: Apr 7, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: If this one is rated 10b/c, La Cierta Edad should be 9/10a in my humble opinion. 3rd pitch was hard & the 4th pitch was harder...maybe different climbing types suit different people but we really struggled on the last pitch. Beautiful climbing, rock & position though! Large cams seemed handy on 2nd pitch. Many thanks to Greg & Matt for replacing the bolts!!


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : Monkey Space (5.11b)
By: rpc When: Apr 4, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: "what optional gear should be brought?"
CojbyJ. posted the info here:
www.summitpost.org/route/164404/monkey-space.html


Location: OR : Smith Rock : Monkey Face : West Face (Aid) (Easy 5th C1)
By: rpc When: Mar 26, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Done it twice incl. once with a 160 lb pig "for practice". Great place to learn aid on very exposed but very safe terrain (IMHO). Yes, lots of bolt ladders but position is spectacular!


Page 6 of 32.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>