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Rock Climbing Photo: black Orpheus


Member Since: Jun 11, 2010
Last Visit: 1 day ago
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Point Rank: # 2,085
Total Points: 357
Last Year: 171
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Royal been climbing?










Contributions


All 456 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 61 | Page Improvements | Comments 22 | Posts 148 | Stars 144 | Ratings 78

Contributed Comments

 

Location: Kyle Willis : Kyle : Photo
By: Royal When: Apr 24, 2016

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Comments: I hear that guy is crazy.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Lower Tier : Frieda's Flake (5.9)
By: Royal When: Feb 6, 2016

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Comments: Good route but go into it knowing that is is by far and away the trickiest to figure out on this wall. It's not a no fall zone like the friar, but you have to do some head scratching for sure.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Horseshoe Wall : Lady Wilson's Cleavage (5.9)
By: Royal When: Dec 13, 2015

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Comments: This is an adventure, probably the biggest adventure I've had in RR on a rope. It's hard. Very sustained and physical 5.9. I think the technical crux was on the first pitch. The physical crux might be the last pitch, but that probably has something to do with it being last. There is loose rock on the route, I'd wear a helmet, and I broke a hold climbing around a bush on P2 - I climb a lot in RR and this was the first time I've broken a hold. The hard pitches are mostly just real physical and the... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : The Wasp (5.9+)
By: Royal When: Dec 11, 2015

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Comments: This is a better route than it looks from the ground. I was able to do the squeeze and I'm 175 5'10 but I belayed right after b/c of rope drag. Climbing out of the wasp feature was wild - I was totally confused at first but its quite easy and a total hoot once you figure it out. The roof felt really hard to me, I had to hang, but the gear is great. A fun obscurity hiding in plain sight!


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Fleeting Boldness (5.10- R)
By: Royal When: Nov 15, 2015

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Comments: Thanks John! It's nice to hear from you. In the interest of full disclosure Kyle did rap the route to make sure it went. Above the off width he removed one block and would have likely injured or killed one of us, so while not the proudest ethically I think that was a good idea. Kyle going out there and putting in the work scouting the line gave us an edge you and Larry didn't have. It was still quite scary for me, but I think it's a cool line and I hope folks enjoy it.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Community Pillar (5.9)
By: Royal When: Oct 3, 2015

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Comments: If you like caving and tunneling on routes, this is the one for you. It's a real hoot. The approach trail leaves something to be desired, but the route is really great. The 'handcrack' variation is indeed 5.9, but it's a stretch to call it a handcrack. It may follow a crack, but hand jams are rare and it's a fairly awkward pitch. It is readily protectable however. Towing anything bulky on the first pitch is recommended. Don't bring a pack. Big cams won't do you much good, I'd leave them home. De... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Deep Space (5.9)
By: Royal When: Jun 18, 2015

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Comments: Maybe I'm crazy but the chimney pitch seemed like no big deal to me. It was fun, but required little chimney technique or skill IMHO. HOWEVER, after the chimney and jam crack there's probably 80 feet of hard face climbing right off the small ledge that felt real stiff to me. I'd call it every bit of puzzling 5.10 or so and the first 20 feet is unprotectable. That's the crux. Be warned. YUR GONNA DIE!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Midnight (5.7+ PG13)
By: Royal When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: really good route on strong, high end varnish. The moves are reachy and thought provoking, I was pleasantly surprised.


Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Lean Lady (5.6)
By: Royal When: May 15, 2015

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Comments: I'd say this is harder than sandy hole - that's useful info for a person looking to do a 5.6 route in the area.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Elephant Penis (5.8)
By: Royal When: May 2, 2015

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Comments: Some people seem to think this is Elephant Penis - now that I have climbed it I am sure it is not.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Royal When: Apr 3, 2015

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Comments: I received this descent beta from a friend of a friend. It's good. As far as I know it's the safest non technical means of descent off mescalito. I'd think twice about attempting it in the dark. It worked for me.

From whatever route you've topped out, head up to the true summit. From here, continue west along the ridge into a slight saddle (generally cairned). Somewhere in the vicinity of this saddle is a very obvious cairned descent gully. If you head down here it's somewhat moderate downclim... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : The Friar and Byrd Pinnacle : The Friar (5.9)
By: Royal When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: I was able to rap the route with a 60 meter with no problems. The first pitch is quite good and on the third pitch there are two moves of amazing hand crack, other than that, it's nothing special till the summit block which is the real deal. I'll admit the summit block scared me but it was really, really good climbing - totally classic. Improbable, athletic, dangerous. A budding 5.9 leader would be asking to get hurt / die if the jumped on it IMHO. The route shouldn't change though, it's suppose... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Stick Gully : Stick Left (5.10c)
By: Royal When: Dec 12, 2014

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Comments: We were able to rap off with a single 60 meter trango rope. Fantastic route!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Jackrabbit Buttress : Geronimo (5.6)
By: Royal When: May 23, 2014

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Comments: Oh wow. The holds are HUGE on this route. Jugfest anyone? It might be more like 5.5 with small bits of 5.6 than anything else. Fantastic fun.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Test Tube (5.9)
By: Royal When: Mar 10, 2014

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Comments: I had a difficult time on the hand crack on pitch one. It was difficult for me to get my hands far enough back into the crack to effectively jam due to my shoulders getting in the way / my arms not being long enough.


Location: Europe : Italy : Bergell : Photo
By: Royal When: Jan 1, 2014

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Comments: Great shot! What route is this?


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : The Gorge of Despair
By: Royal When: Nov 22, 2013

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Comments: I've backpacked out to the Gorge to attempt a descent into Tehipite valley - at which we failed, but the formations and the climbing looks amazing. I'd love to go back. Someone needs to climb out here with me!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Dark Shadows (5.8)
By: Royal When: Jun 29, 2013

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Comments: The upper pitches are most definitely not in the shade in late June. I just climbed the complete route two days ago and we got cooked. Plus, the descent is kinda a pain in the dark especially when you have a slow and scared partner.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Wholesome Fullback (5.10b)
By: Royal When: Jun 7, 2013

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Comments: This thing is so not 10a! I call major sandbag. the crux is short, but it's a hard SOB. I can climb 10a and I was nowhere near sending the crux. It's at least 10c/d. The first pitch seems like honest to god 10a. I liked the first pitch best.


Location: alix morris : Text : Photo
By: Royal When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: great photo! gonna have to climb that one.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: Royal When: Oct 5, 2010

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Comments: Amazing climb. Totally worth doing. The view and exposure up top is impeccable. Climbing this thing made my day.


Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Theodore (5.6)
By: Royal When: Aug 24, 2010

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Comments: The P1 crack was tons of fun, but once that ended I felt like unroping and hiking to the top. Didn't lend itself to a sustained 'multi-pitch' feel. Still that crack was great.



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