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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate : The Guillotine (5.11)
By: Ross Keller When: Aug 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The right-hand dihedral goes at about 5.8. Gear to 3" 1 or 2 stars. A little dirty. but worth doing.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Center Dihedral (5.10d)
By: Ross Keller When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No reason not to do this as 1 pitch. The line is pretty direct and it's only about 125' high. Quality climb on mostly good stone.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Fern Canyon Rocks : Rock Of Ages : Nameless Demons (5.10b)
By: Ross Keller When: May 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This can be done as 1 pitch if you take care about managing rope drag on the gear before the "belly flop" and then once established on the mid-height ledge reach back down to back clean the easy to reach piece that protects the "flop" (BTW, the belly flop most is a little bizarre, but not very hard.). There's a fixed nut and a bomber #1 Camalot placement just below the crux and a surprisingly good, but strenuous-to-place, green/yellow Alien placement at the crux.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Ross Keller When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rampart Range road is scheduled to open 4/10 (conditons permitting)
http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/spl/
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Location: Kevin Stricker : Misc. : Photo
By: Ross Keller When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My guess is Firé Big Wall's from the late 1980's to early 1990's
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Standard Route (5.11- R) : Photo
By: Ross Keller When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not to mention the possibility of swinging back into the pointy end of the flake! I also wouldn't want to fall onto that bolt or the knifeblade above it.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks
By: Ross Keller When: Oct 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The "Getting There" description has been updated. Please let me know if it needs any tweaking. Thanks.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Slippery When Dry (5.11+)
By: Ross Keller When: May 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Location is just right of Classic Dihedral. The bolts are good. Can be done in one pitch from the ground with a couple of long slings at key points.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Mountain : Mickey Mouse Wall : Asahi (5.10c R)
By: Ross Keller When: Nov 9, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: With supplemental gear, this doesn't rate an R. A worthwhile route.
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Location: CO : Cañon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Metropolis (5.11d)
By: Ross Keller When: Nov 8, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: After the boulder problem start, the rest of the climb goes at 10+/11-. Placement of the 1st bolt is very poor relative to the holds (bolt should be well to the right of its current location).
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Location: CO : Empire : Ra : Empire of the Air (5.11a)
By: Ross Keller When: Sep 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A ggod route with only a couple of loose sections. Pitches 1 & 2 and then 3 & 4 can be linked to produce a two-pitch climb with satisfying pitch lengths. I think 11a is a pretty good rating, with a 10d spot anf an 11a spot. The last section is 9+/10- and requires a selection of cams from 1" to 3"
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Location: CO : Empire : Goat Rock
By: Ross Keller When: Sep 13, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A lot of hard work went into prepping this crag (both in trail building and route equipping). This is unfortunate because the rock is some of the worst I have ever seen. We backed off a couple of routes (the best looking two) because of very dangerous and loose features.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Miss Manners (5.11a)
By: Ross Keller When: Aug 2, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thinkk that the pull over the roof is hard 5.10 and that the face climbing above is very thin and sustained. Not R-rated at all (The bolts are far enough apart to keep you honest on lead though!)
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Finger of Fate (5.8 A2)
By: Ross Keller When: May 28, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've been up this route a couple of times and have never used a cheater stick on it. But, I wouldn't go up a route like this, with multiple instances of fixed gear, without one. It can save you from having to drill a new hole or otherwise have to back off.
As far as "cheating" is concerned, this my friend is aid climbing and it's up to the ascentionist to determine the style in which they climb.
In general I agree with the idea that a route that's been AIDED clean should be accomplished in t... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Ross Keller When: May 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stepped out a the lower spot as well. After setting the belay, I looked down at it and got the impression that the higher option looks a bit eaisier. I did manage a good small alien and a decent RP below the fixed peg.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Ross Keller When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: I definately recommend roping up for the "3rd class" at the bottom. It's a long way up and there's a lot of looseness.
The first pitch has good gear at 20 & 40 feet. The worst part is the first couple of moves off the deck.
Overall an excellent climb, but a bit of a sandbag in that there is a lot of strenuous climbing and this is not a short route (too bad the Brit rating system is so hard to understand--it'd work well here). If you're just breaking into longer climbs in the tenish range, d... more >>
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Ross Keller When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 1st two pitches combine nicely. The crux hand/finger crack is as good as ou'll see anywhere!
The black corner pitch is better than it looks with excellent climbing and adequate pro (10b-pg).
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : North Chasm View Wall : A Midsummer's Night Dream (5.11a)
By: Ross Keller When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 2nd & 3rd pitches are excellent. The route description given here is very good. Don't be put off by the rating, as the 11a is a single move with good gear.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon : The Checkerboard Wall : Checkerboard Wall (5.10)
By: Ross Keller When: May 25, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good route with two excellent pitches. There is a bit of questionable stone, but not much. The gear tends to be good and the route is much less runout than the guidebook would indicate.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Cloud Tower : Cloud Tower (5.12-)
By: Ross Keller When: Feb 27, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's possible to climb the layback and kace climb up the left side of the tower before entering the slot (5.9X). If you belay the last pitch from the top of the tower bring a Big Bro for an anchor.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek
By: Ross Keller When: Oct 6, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's 502 not 507. Here's the link to the USFS web site: http://www.fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/spl/images/climb_map.jpg
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Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek
By: Ross Keller When: Sep 30, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The old Jackson Creek road is not only washed out, but it's path crosses private property owned by some not-too-friendly locals. Definately best to drive down from Rampart.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock
By: Ross Keller When: Aug 25, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: No trespassing signs have now been posted along the road. I suspect that these are primarily aimed at the fishers, picknickers, partiers that frequent the creek-bottom. This may also be related to the ongoing attemp to sell the adjacent property. In any case, the crrek-bottom is more that likely all private land and it's beginning to look like access may get complicated.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Creek Side : Solid Gold (5.11d)
By: Ross Keller When: Aug 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Goes pretty well as a three-pitch climb. Two long & one short pitches. The moderate parts are generously bolted & I'd suggest skipping a few of these if you want to link pitches 1-2 & 3-4. The rotten section doesn't lok like it will ever really clean up & the key hold in this area is a time bomb. I think that, with traffic, this could be the crux someday. Anyway, the bolts in this area are close enough to prevent bodily damage and it's worth tip-toeing through the choss to get to the crux s... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Cheops (5.10d)
By: Ross Keller When: Aug 8, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't blow the move to the 1st bolt or place a temporary piece in the crack to the right until that 1st bolt is clipped.
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