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Rock Climbing Photo: Biker Fun


Member Since: Jul 3, 2001
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 437
Total Points: 1,631
Last Year: 93
Last 30 Days: 60
71 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 878 | Routes 68 | Areas 16 | Photos 117 | Page Improvements | Comments 126 | Posts 95 | Stars 374 | Ratings 82
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Pantheon : Maximus (5.9)
By: Ross When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: I downgraded the difficulty to 5.8 because of good, small, foot hold ledges during laybacks and trick used @ the roof, see my beta in the tick section.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Pantheon : Bury the Hatchet (5.10 PG13)
By: Ross When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: Went left at 2nd to last bolt crux on series of left-facing handholds to ramp, still 10b. On rap, I could see there was a hold around right corner that probably would be a better ending but harder?

I use one red HB on the second pitch, that's it.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : C'est La Vrie (5.8+ PG13)
By: Ross When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: EDIT: after checking the topo, it appears I was off route, doh!, but I'll keep my comment just the same:

To the route description, I would add:

Begin on the 4-5 foot tall boulder to the right of the corner. Step up and stem left until you can stand in the crack above a dead stump. Ascend the wide OW/chimney, I did a layback, near top of wide crack step right to place gear (**) and extend or after you have gear in the dihedral, retreat to remove piece ** (need a bolt near to... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: No off route, you pull up through the overhang then traverse; instead of traversing as shown in pic, see Gillett's comment about an exciting finish.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Arch of Titus : Triple Bypass (5.11b)
By: Ross When: Jun 19, 2016

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Comments: See my tic comment for beta at second roof. I had mega rope drag at top, due to rope weaving before traverse. Take small stoppers or micro cams.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Roadside Rock : Drop Your Cool, Tom Foolery (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Jun 13, 2016

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Comments: If rapping off on the skier's right, be warned that rope may get stuck, e.g. like mine did. Leading back up a plant filled wide crack was okay but a time suck. Best to wrap towards road, but watch the p-ivy.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Fall River Road (US 34 West... : McGregor Slab : Camel Toe (5.9+)
By: Ross When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments:
  • ** 2016 Approach Trail update ***
Start just above pavilion on EAST side of new lodge.
Much tree fall near base of cliff.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : *Joshua Tree Bouldering* : Barker Dam Bouldering : Gunsmoke Area : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Jan 1, 2016

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Comments: My adrenaline shoots up when I look at this picture.


Location: MN : Tettegouche SP (North Shore... : Palisade Head : Danger High Voltage (5.8) : Photo
By: Ross When: Jul 15, 2015

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Comments: Good work Men


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Tiberone (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: After the stem beginning, keeping your feet in the crack is the way to go.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Fin : Hammerhead (5.9)
By: Ross When: Apr 25, 2015

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Comments: Solid 5.9. Having 2 #3 Camalots would have been nice, but the upper middle section does have a couple of hidden cracks for small Aliens or the like.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : Black Powder (5.9+)
By: Ross When: Dec 28, 2014

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Comments: At the roof lip, we didn't see how it would be possible to place gear on right as described here and also in Gillett's guidebook, that crack is not even close by.

You do not want to leave any gear at the lip the roof! Your rope can get caught with the gear and be very difficult to pull. Better would be to place pro at lip, make the lip move, place more pro higher in crack then reach back down to remove the pro at the lip.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 10, 2014

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Comments: Lucky!
Every time I've hit that traverse it's been wet.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Acrophile : ... : Photo
By: Ross When: Dec 9, 2014

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Comments: There is a key tiny foot hold at climber's waist that is easy to miss.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Hemp Necktie (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Jun 3, 2014

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Comments: To find this route, walk past Mainliner & the big, left-facing Eumenides corner system.
About halfway up the face between a large roof system on your left and the Eumenides, left-facing corner system, you will see a smooth, bulging face with a crack tending left then back right. This crack is your destination.

At the crux, I was able to step left onto knobs that will allow you to tackle the crack as a one move, right-facing layback.

About 30' above the crux, there is a horn to sit on for your... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Button Rock (aka Pinewood R...
By: Ross When: Apr 20, 2014

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Comments: It's best when the the map rules.
Maybe a better name would be "The Real Button Rock" or "PWS Button Rock".
Adding even more confusion is the mountain south of Button Rock called "Button Rock Mtn."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Disappearing Act (aka Krypt... (5.11a)
By: Ross When: Mar 26, 2014

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Comments: Aka Kryptonite from S. Levin guide, the stuff that kills Superman. Another classic pumper.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Ranklands of Perfidy (5.9)
By: Ross When: Mar 24, 2014

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Comments: Although a little dirt is at the bottom moves, this route is actually very good, with just the right amount thrill and protection except at the top of the first pitch. Not too easy not too hard.

The crack at the run-out top could use a little cleaning for a RP back-up. I was able to get in a 0 or 00 small cam. I agree the lower bolt placement is rather odd, but I was happy to clip the upper bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : Observatory Rock : Mineral Secretion (5.10c)
By: Ross When: Mar 21, 2014

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Comments: One can start 20' lower in a licken corner for additional moves that lead to the crack on the left of the alcove. The crux comes at the horizontal where there is a hidden sidepull. A #4 Camalot was useful at the top to protect the move around the roof. I had to take my helmet off to do the move.

The guidebook shows a pic for this climbing area and a dotted line for this route that is on the right side of the alcove; however, in the topo, the line for this route is on the left s... more >>


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : North Fork of the St. Vrain... : Big Elk Meadows - Boulders
By: Ross When: Jan 20, 2014

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Comments: The Flood on 12 Sep 2013 wiped out the approach trail. It may be better to continue on Rt47 for additional 0.3 miles then hike in 0.2 miles over the long ridge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pre-Flood trail.
Pre-Flood trail.



Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Bookmark : Backflip (5.9-)
By: Ross When: Dec 1, 2013

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Comments: Variation after P1:
P2. From the ledge, proceed up the broken crack and flakes closest to the 2 bolt station. At small roof, traverse right 15' to crack below bush, climb crack and face to stance, 5.9-.
P3. Trusting instinct, traverse up & right with no pro on easy face until reaching finger crack with good pro, up this to a hand traverse right and scary mantle. Continue up cracks until its possible to traverse right to easier ground, 5.9-.
P4. Continue up large cracks tending left and up arete ... more >>


Location: Martin Harris : rocks of fun : Photo
By: Ross When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Are those trees growing sideways, or is this picture rotation deprived.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Midnight Rock : Midnight Cowboy (5.12a/b)
By: Ross When: Jan 28, 2013

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Comments: Getting to the 12 section I was able to easily go around by mantling the big, horizontal crack, then joining the route before going around the corner to the 11d headwall which I passed and finished on the 10 next door. We later TR'ed this route, the upper 11d was too hard for me, but the 12 section wasn't too bad after unlocking the jog right via the topo.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+)
By: Ross When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Two icons Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi, did they do other routes together?


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Field's Chimney (WI5 M6+) : Photo
By: Ross When: Oct 12, 2012

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Comments: Yeah, it looks it.


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