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Almost Heaven nothing... this IS Heaven.  Climbing...


Member Since: Apr 28, 2008
Last Visit: moments ago
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Point Rank: # 1,625
Total Points: 405
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 3
7 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Ronin been climbing?










Contributions


All 159 | Routes 22 | Areas 7 | Photos 10 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 23 | Posts 44 | Stars 41 | Ratings 11

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station
By: Ronin When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: As of today, still selling the guidebook and BLM map for Buena Vista/Salida at The Trailhead, with no mention of closures.

Thanks for the great customer service!


Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Photo
By: Ronin When: Feb 20, 2015

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Comments: Almost all of these routes are now closed.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon : Shaman Wall : Strange Medicine (5.8+ R)
By: Ronin When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: Hmmm... reading back over my original description, I find no place I was thumping my chest, but rather explaining how the route got bolted in the way it did.

Perhaps, to preserve the unsoiled condition of your undergarments, I should have gone about it in the following manner:

The ascent was ground-up solo on shattered rock a long ways from my car with no one to come look for me no matter how long I was gone. It was winter and I was working with a notoriously fickle Hilti TE-10a battery.

Yo... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon : Shaman Wall : Strange Medicine (5.8+ R)
By: Ronin When: Feb 6, 2014

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Comments: So you admit your critique comes from complete ignorance about the crag, the conditions and rock type?

Last time I checked, that made you an asshole.

The route has a run-out because it is, that's all. Didn't feel like I was under obligation to a climbing community that pays for none of my gear or drills, but which nonetheless seems to think it has the right to dictate bolt spacing, good style and ethics while demonstrating so little.

You don't wanna go bold, go over to the Pancake House, t... more >>


Location: WV
By: Ronin When: Nov 14, 2013

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Comments: A West Virginia fire, started over the weekend by burning brush and sustained by high winds, has spread and doubled in size overnight, from 720 acres to 1500+.

The fire is burning on North Fork Mountain in Pendleton and Grant Counties and has crossed from Smoke Hole into Germany Valley, between Seneca and Champe Rocks.

The link will take you to a map showing the closure of the NF from Eagle Rocks to Redman Road.

[url]http://wvmetronews.com/2013/11/13/emergency-closure-issued-in-smoke-hole... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks
By: Ronin When: Oct 30, 2013

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Comments: Just a reminder to our many out-of-state visitors- Hiking in both Germany Valley (near Seneca Rocks) and Pendleton Valley (near Franklin Gorge) this past week and encountered both rattlesnakes and copperheads in both locations, despite two frosts and a freeze in the last week or two.

Just a reminder, especially for those exploring some of the fun little spots "off the map" where there might be climbs but not a lot of traffic- the biters are still out there, and still active. Thick piles of lea... more >>


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Impact Zone : Belly of the Whale (5.7+)
By: Ronin When: Oct 17, 2013

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Comments: Sorry, Jake... the smiley didn't translate. Thanks for the upkeep!


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Impact Zone : Belly of the Whale (5.7+)
By: Ronin When: Sep 12, 2013

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Comments: Never did the "flop onto the ledge" for the FA; we did a nice rock-on with sidepulls to the right and a few nubbins to a standing stance, right up out of the throat of the dihedral.

Feel free to tighten that spinner... Franklin doesn't have a service department.


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Contact Zone : Aloha (Bircham's Other) (5.8)
By: Ronin When: Sep 6, 2013

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Comments: Actually, Kenny, that jerk Mike Gray bolted an old Angie McGinnis project and in fact did the first ascent of this route (which is NOT called "Burcham's Other", as it is named in that pile of Horstshite, but is in fact "Aloha").

This is the route to the right of Burcham's Beach, which was not FA'ed by Mister Burcham but was actually put up by Begoon and Artz and company. The name refers to the fact that Burcham always claimed to be going to the beach when he was, in fact, coming to Franklin ... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon
By: Ronin When: Apr 29, 2013

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Comments: Maybe it's just the perspective of remembering when the trails were great, instead of "not that bad".

Glad you got to check out the new hardware. Unfortunately, I left some of the anchors in place when we got rained out. Cheers to anyone who finds my booty... hope the biners find good homes!


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Impact Zone : Rock Your World (5.10c PG13)
By: Ronin When: Apr 22, 2013

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Comments: Hmmm... maybe because the first bolt is very high off the deck, at the top of a shattered set of natural steps?


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon
By: Ronin When: Mar 10, 2013

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Comments: Trail update 03/10/2013:

Having hiked through the canyon via several trails in the last three months, let the guy who built most of the first trails back in the mid-90s offer a word of advice:

Every "direct approach" trail leading to and from the Amphitheater, Pocket Plaza, or the Stormwatch Area is eroded, overgrown, and otherwise in complete disrepair. I don't know or truly care whether this comes from the impact of herds of free range cattle (a major problem) or the fact that 99 out of 100... more >>


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : *Queen Creek Canyon : Northern Devils Canyon : The amphitheater : Bakefest in america (5.8)
By: Ronin When: Feb 22, 2013

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Comments: Yes, five bolts... is there a problem with that? When I put the route up in the first place, it seemed like more than enough.

Too bold, or too many?

A great line, but don't miss the other faces of this tower: Angelicus (considered by some folks to be one of the best 5.9s in the canyon) and Madame Guillotine, the heady 5.10 on the north face.


Location: WV
By: Ronin When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Bridge construction is currently making the entrance to the Franklin Gorge crag a bit of challenge through the week, as is the fact that they are digging and blasting fill out of the back of the outcrop that looms overhead as you reach the one-lane bridge on the drive in. Not sure what this means to future access.... there's a good chance this road will be abandoned by the county and even gated by the landowners.


Location: WV
By: Ronin When: May 19, 2012

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Comments: Best camping for Franklin Gorge: Thorn Springs Park and Campground. Take 33 West from the crag entrance on River Gap Road. Turn left at the 33W/220N intersection light, and follow 220 south for three miles to Dry Run Road, at the old Pendleton Co. Industrial park, now home to the DMV and DHHR.

Turn left on Dry Run (since turning right means an instant collision with a steep bank) and follow around a bend, past a gorgeous bed and breakfast (up for sale) and a set of tantalizing limestone cli... more >>


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Impact Zone : Edge-U-Cate (5.10c)
By: Ronin When: May 15, 2012

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Comments: Actually, the route is "Edge-U-Cate", and the area is the end of the Impact Zone. Coming soon: a guidebook that was actually written by someone who put up routes and built trails at Franklin, as well as being written with the landowners' knowledge and consent, something NO OTHER guidebook can claim... even the one written by the famous guy...

Stay tuned for more...


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Contact Zone : Bircham's Beach (5.10a)
By: Ronin When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: This route is 10b and has always been 10b... never did figure out who thought it was 10a... probably one of the folks who put it in a Falcon Press guide without contacting any of the FAs....


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Impact Zone : Belly of the Whale (5.7+)
By: Ronin When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: Route now has 5 bolts, all new, with a lower first bolt added by FA. PLEASE stop TRing this line through the anchors... carabiners cost one HELL of a lot less than ring anchors.


Location: WV : Franklin Gorge : Main Wall : Parking Area Wall : Unknown 5.10c (Roadside) (5.10c)
By: Ronin When: Dec 2, 2009

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Comments: Sounds like Limestoned....


Location: WV
By: Ronin When: Sep 29, 2009

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Comments: "Due to rainy weather..."

We just came out of a three-month dry spell which began to border on last year's drought. WV, lke most other places on earth, gets a lot of rain in the spring and pretty dependable precip in the winter. It is steep and rocky, so it doesn't dry out as fast as the desert, but I climbed on dry rock for the last two days after a week of rain every day (which was the end of the dry spell, and not a routine event).

"...crazy locals..."

Trying to remember the last time on... more >>


Location: WV : Eagle Rock Climbers' Benefi...
By: Ronin When: Sep 24, 2009

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Comments: For more about Eagle Rocks and Smoke Hole canyon, check us out at:

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...


Location: WV : The Second Franklin Trailda...
By: Ronin When: May 16, 2008

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Comments: Wow... it's like deja vu... this is JUST LIKE the event I submitted, sometime back in April... except that it has Andy's name on it... Oh, well... at least it got submitted.

Hope to see some of you folks there... maybe even the guy who almost copied my text from RC.com word for word when he posted the Franklin area on this website without including any route beta or mentioning it was private land...

Speaking of which, to better facilitate trailwork and hardware replacement, the main crag will... more >>


Location: TN : Sunset Park : Climber Access Threatened a...
By: Ronin When: Apr 28, 2008

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Comments: "...the park service cited numerous negative incidents involving climbers, including loudness (Sunset is in a residential area), blocking trails with ropes and gear, and unruly dogs."

First off, I've owned more than one dog in my life, and lived with more than a few. I love them IN THEIR PLACE, which is not at the crag. Period. Dogs do not understand staying on the trail, do not assist in climbing in any way, do not understand what "Rock!" means. They dig holes when they are hot. They chas... more >>


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