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Climbing at Cathedral Rock. <br />


Member Since: Dec 13, 2009
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Ron Thompson


Point Rank: # 3,707
Total Points: 109
Last Year: 4
Last 30 Days: 1
6 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
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Contributions


All (57) | Routes (1) | Areas | Photos (14) | Comments (29) | Posts (12) | Stars (1) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: 5 days ago

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Comments: I read yesterday the person who chopped part of our route on Thompson Ladder because it offended him back in the mid 80's was fine 5,000 dollar for starting a fire and training without a permit in Sedona. Officials said a climber started a fire within a narrow canyon that is home to rare plants and animals, and a sensitive riparian community during the weeklong rescue training course last September and destroying sensitive riparian plants. This climber who I will not mention was issued tw... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5 PG13)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Right On

I have been climbing Right On for over 25 years. I used to switch cracks into Pitch 2 sometimes on Orange Flake. My first time up Right On was in 1977 and no bolts were installed on any pitch ! My last climb up this face was in 1992 which was my 29 ascent on this route and every pitch except pitch 4 had bolts. I installed a rap station near the top of Right On in the late 70's. Not the traditional rap station installed by John Wolf on top of Right on because you must down climb a long... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5 PG13)
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 17, 2013

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Comments: My mistake. I meant to say climbing with chocks and Tri Cams in climbing this route. I have never used any type of friends or any other TCU devices in climbing Right On. I have climb this route over thirty times beginning in the mid 70's. Also, in his post on Right On, Locker agrees with me that switching from "Right on" to "Orange flake" adds to this climbs enjoyment. I also enjoy using you Fish products in aid climbing .


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: Ron Thompson When: Aug 8, 2013

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Comments: I did the 'Thompson Traverse' on the Pulpit last October what a great traverse across the pulpit ! my friend Keith Chapman and I did the climb to the top of the spire in using the traverse. The route was first climb by Don Thompson and Larry Ciak. Don added two bolts on the first belay ledge because the anchors pulled in 1992 they were two pins than now anchored by two bombproof bolts and the first bolt on the bolt ladder was also replaced in 1992...


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5 PG13)
By: Ron Thompson When: Feb 10, 2013

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Comments: Yes, I use to climb Right On that way also to get to the first belay ledge with my twin brother Don and It was much harder than 5.5 . I started climbing Right On in the 70's when every pitch did not have any bolts. My friends and I climb back than with chocks wearing EB's shoes and using goldline rope.I neveer climb Right On using TCU in hindsight I wish I did because of the long runouts.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Aug 26, 2012

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Comments: We use to climb up Headstone wall using the old bolt ladder installed by the Riverside Search and Rescue Team. However, it was a great training for aid climbing with a cliff hanger move at the top. However, a climber playing God stripped the bolt ladder because, his 5.12 route was near the ladder not in the way but near his climb so he stripped the whole route back in the early 80's. The ladder was once fun climbing because, you had to use a cliff hangers move in getting over the lip. Now go... more >>


Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jul 16, 2012

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Comments: I remember climbing for years at Big Rocks starting in the 70's. I remember the Trough was once rated 5.4 now I see it rated 5.6. I have climb almost every route at Big Rocks. I use to watch Lynn Hill climb at Big Rocks and also in the 70's the climbers than had to park and hike the trail over to the rock . Now, you can just drive up and belay from your car.The Trought was always a excellent introduction in lead climbing with protection bolts all the way up the face.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: Ron Thompson When: Dec 31, 2011

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Comments: In November 1997 Don Thompson and Larry Ciak climb a new route off the original line on the Pulpit. Climb the bolt ladder to the first belay ledge 5.5. from here is the crux to the main crack past a bolt. Follow the crack and bolts aid or free halfway up and than traverse a long crack across the Pulpit to a belay ledge at the end of the traverse belay your partner across the traverse some rope drag. Climb a 5.9 crack or aid to the top. The traverse takes many large nut, and a set of T... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Northeast Ridge (5.7 A0) : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 4, 2011

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Comments: I started climbing this spire in 1987 after climbing Castle Rock. At the belay ledge someone "stripped all the bolts out of the overhang section " and we could not continue on because all the bolts were gone !


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Bill Williams Mountain : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Oct 7, 2011

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Comments: I remember Don Thompson climbing this wall on cracks near the outer edge of this wall back in 1984 . Don's friend Rick took a 40 foot fall from this wall breaking his ankel on the first try.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jul 5, 2011

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Comments: I remember once I climb the last pitch on Angels Fright in total darkness missing the protection bolt. Our party started late and it was not easy hiking off the top at midnight with no flashlights.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: Sorry, I mean there are fixed anchors on the route.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 19, 2011

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Comments: just a photo shot. On the upper spire quicdraws were used no locking beiners the route was in a great location.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 16, 2011

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Comments: Climbing up our route we did not see the detached rock piller. Like you see in Wind, Sand and Stars. Our route was close to the Mace rap point. Climbing in the 80's we did not see any pin scars, bolts and any anchors on pitch two. For a route rated A3 R and climbing in the softest sanstone in Sedona you would see fixed anchors somewhere on this route. Look at the Mace, I have climb the Mace before and there are anchor bolts . We never seen any bolts , pin scars on this entire route. Also, pi... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: If Molly climb our route the first time she never used bolts, pins or fixed anchors on the entire route. On the first belay ledge no anchor bolts. Strange? When we climb the crack system we noticed no anchors, chalk or pin scars or any fixed anchors in the softest sandston in Sedone for a route rated 5.10 A3 R. This says, than climbing ethics were violated on all first ascent routes in Sedona after Molly climb Wind, Sand and Stars. Reason is, all new routes around the Mace have fixed a... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: Please review the Pulpit in Zion on Mountain Project where bolts were installed near a crack system, the route is not destroyed and is a great climbing area because of the soft sandstone. Also, look at Artist Tears another route put up by Molly in Utah fixed anchors pins were used and the route is not destroyed rated 5:8 C3 R today.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: My family were the first settlers in Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona and they would "roll over in their grave" seeing all the trails destroyed leading up to the Mace today. Today, hand chalk and rock formation signs on the ground with hand writings on the walls. My family named most of the rock formations in Sedona, build roads down into Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. They also started the first trail up towards the Mace in the late 1930's. Now hand chalk is seen all over the soft sandstone rout... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: Sedona is a great place for climbing! faire de la varappe.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011

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Comments: Please review the Pulpit in Zion and Artist Tears in Moab on climbing in soft sanstone.




Location: CA : Inland Empire : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Africa Flake (5.5) : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: May 18, 2011

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Comments: I spent most of my youth climbing most all the bolted routes at "Big Rocks." I use to watch Lynn Hill climb here when she was young .


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 5, 2010

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Comments: The bolt ladder put up in 1987-1988 was not in the crack system and was put in by hand no drills. All bolts were 3/8 and went in 3 inches or more for safety because of the softest rock in Sedona is located on this route and bolts would protect the softest sandstone in Sedona. Also, Our team wanted a safe climb to the top of Cathedral Rock so others could climb without destroying the "softest sandstone" in the area. The climb took one year and in the mid 80's no one could tell us where ... more >>


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Rappel Route (5.10c)
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 4, 2010

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Comments: Sorry, but no bolt ladder started a foot off the ground that Never happen !If someone put bolts a foot off the ground it was not us ! All bolt were place by hand not by drill this was back in 1987 and 1988 and did not go up the crack system on pitch 2. Climb the route yourself and see before you start complaining about it if you can.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: Chicken bolts ? The route was not eliminated and went up not in the crack system so how could the route be unsafe with soft sandstone is my question. The route was not destroyed, go climb it yourself and see for yourself Rick. The bolts were to the side of Wind Sand and Stars. The 2 pitch bolts did not go up the 5.10 crack system and is untoched like it always has been.

Why are we talking about it now it was done 22 years ago.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Sep 28, 2010

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Comments: The route is not destroyed ! The bolts were placed on the sheer part of the wall not in the crack system . The route is safer now because of the soft sandstone in that area.Larry Coates is wrong about the route being destroyed it is not .


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Aug 7, 2010

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Comments: Was once a excellent bolt ladder on the otherside of Headstone Rock a great practice area for aid climbing with a cliffhanger move at the top! This Route was destroyed because some climbers like to be God ! Play God in your own backyard not in the National Park. The climber who destroyed this route was peeing in his diaper when this route was established !


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