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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5)
By: Ron Thompson When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing in the 70's on Right On I never seen one bolt on any of the pitches. Than in the early 80's bolts were added inside the cave on pitch one. Climbing in the late 80's every pitch except pitch 3 had bolts. Our team never had TCU's we just used chocks and climb the long runouts without protection. You must climb safe on this climb the same with the first pitch on Orange Flake. Because, many accidents have happen on pitch one on Orange Flake in getting to the first belay ledge the same ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5)
By: Ron Thompson When: Feb 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, I use to climb Right On that way also to get to the first belay ledge with my twin brother Don and It was much harder than 5.5 . I started climbing Right On in the 70's when every pitch did not have any bolts. My friends and I climb back than with chocks wearing EB's shoes and using goldline rope.I neveer climb Right On using TCU in hindsight I wish I did because of the long runouts. However, in the 70's TCU were not out than .
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Aug 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: We use to climb up Headstone wall using the old bolt ladder installed by the Riverside Search and Rescue Team. However, it was a great training for aid climbing with a cliff hanger move at the top. However, a climber playing God stripped the bolt ladder because, his 5.12 route was near the ladder not in the way but near his climb so he stripped the whole route back in the early 80's. The ladder was once fun climbing because, you had to use a cliff hangers move in getting over the lip. Now go... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jul 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember climbing for years at Big Rocks starting in the 70's. I remember the Trough was once rated 5.4 now I see it rated 5.6. I have climb almost every route at Big Rocks. I use to watch Lynn Hill climb at Big Rocks and also in the 70's the climbers than had to park and hike the trail over to the rock . Now, you can just drive up and belay from your car.The Trought was always a excellent introduction in lead climbing with protection bolts all the way up the face.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5)
By: Ron Thompson When: Apr 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: My twin brother Don Thompson has climb Right On over 30 times in his lifetime. Starting in 1977 the whole route never had one bolt on any of the pitches till the early 80's. For adventure, climb the first pitch ,and clip into the first bolt. Than go right to a small ledge 15 feet higher , from the ledge climb a splinter crack 15 feet to a bolt from another route. Small TCU's and tiny copperheads give you great protection. Once at the bolt traverser left with tension from your belayer to t... more >>
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: Ron Thompson When: Dec 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In November 1997 I climb a new route off the original line on the Pulpit. Climb the bolt ladder to the first belay ledge 5.5. from here is the crux to the main crack past a bolt. Follow the crack and bolts aid or free halfway up and than traverse a long crack across the Pulpit to a belay ledge at the end of the traverse belay your partner across the traverse some rope drag. Climb a 5.9 crack or aid to the top. The traverse takes many large nut, and a set of Tricams cams which works well... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Zeus : Northeast Ridge (5.7 A0) : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started climbing this spire in 1987 after climbing Castle Rock. At the belay ledge someone "stripped all the bolts out of the overhang section " and we could not continue on because all the bolts were gone !
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Bill Williams Mountain : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Oct 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember Don Thompson climbing this wall on cracks near the outer edge of this wall back in 1984 . Don's friend Rick took a 40 foot fall from this wall breaking his ankel on the first try.
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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jul 5, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I remember once I climb the last pitch on Angels Fright in total darkness missing the protection bolt. Our party started late and it was not easy hiking off the top at midnight with no flashlights.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, I mean there are fixed anchors on the route.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: just a photo shot. On the upper spire quicdraws were used no locking beiners the route was in a great location.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbing up our route we did not see the detached rock piller. Like you see in Wind, Sand and Stars. Our route was close to the Mace rap point. Climbing in the 80's we did not see any pin scars, bolts and any anchors on pitch two. For a route rated A3 R and climbing in the softest sanstone in Sedona you would see fixed anchors somewhere on this route. Look at the Mace, I have climb the Mace before and there are anchor bolts . We never seen any bolts , pin scars on this entire route. Also, pi... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: If Molly climb our route the first time she never used bolts, pins or fixed anchors on the entire route. On the first belay ledge no anchor bolts. Strange? When we climb the crack system we noticed no anchors, chalk or pin scars or any fixed anchors in the softest sandston in Sedone for a route rated 5.10 A3 R. This says, than climbing ethics were violated on all first ascent routes in Sedona after Molly climb Wind, Sand and Stars. Reason is, all new routes around the Mace have fixed a... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please review the Pulpit in Zion on Mountain Project where bolts were installed near a crack system, the route is not destroyed and is a great climbing area because of the soft sandstone. Also, look at Artist Tears another route put up by Molly in Utah fixed anchors pins were used and the route is not destroyed rated 5:8 C3 R today.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My family were the first settlers in Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona and they would "roll over in their grave" seeing all the trails destroyed leading up to the Mace today. Today, hand chalk and rock formation signs on the ground with hand writings on the walls. My family named most of the rock formations in Sedona, build roads down into Sedona and Oak Creek Canyon. They also started the first trail up towards the Mace in the late 1930's. Now hand chalk is seen all over the soft sandstone rout... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sedona is a great place for climbing! faire de la varappe.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please review the Pulpit in Zion and Artist Tears in Moab on climbing in soft sanstone.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Right On (5.5)
By: Ron Thompson When: May 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I started climbing on Saddle Rock during the Fall of 1977. When I did my first climb on Saddle Rock. I climb "Right On" In 1977 there was not ONE bolt on Right On except at the top for the rap off. After climbing Saddle Rock over 30 times in twenty years of climbing I still cannot see why so many climbers are having problems with this route. After climbing the first pitch you are in a small cave . If you wish to avoid the first OW crack on pitch two traverse left and climb the easy crack o... more >>
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Location: CA : Riverside/Orange Counties : Riverside County : Big Rock Area : Main Slab : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I spent most of my youth climbing most all the bolted routes at "Big Rocks." I use to watch Lynn Hill climb here when she was young .
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Temple of Sinawava : The Pulpit (5.5 C1)
By: Ron Thompson When: Jan 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: In 1992 Don Thompson replaced the first aid bolt on the bolt ladder on the Pulpit. The bolt pulled when he stood in his aiders. At the first belay ledge there was a pin and a old bolt with a broken hanger which was not inline with the belay ledge. Don added two belay bolts on pitch one, he did not trust his life to a pin and a broken aid anchor bolt . The belay anchors are solid on the first belay ledge now.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt ladder put up in 1987-1988 was not in the crack system and was put in by hand no drills. All bolts were 3/8 and went in 3 inches or more for safety because of the softest rock in Sedona is located on this route and bolts would protect the softest sandstone in Sedona. Also, Our team wanted a safe climb to the top of Cathedral Rock so others could climb without destroying the "softest sandstone" in the area. The climb took one year and in the mid 80's no one could tell us where ... more >>
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Rappel Route (5.10c)
By: Ron Thompson When: Nov 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry, but no bolt ladder started a foot off the ground that Never happen !If someone put bolts a foot off the ground it was not us ! All bolt were place by hand not by drill this was back in 1987 and 1988 and did not go up the crack system on pitch 2. Climb the route yourself and see before you start complaining about it if you can.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Sep 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chicken bolts ? The route was not eliminated and went up not in the crack system so how could the route be unsafe with soft sandstone is my question. The route was not destroyed, go climb it yourself and see for yourself Rick. The bolts were to the side of Wind Sand and Stars. The 2 pitch bolts did not go up the 5.10 crack system and is untoched like it always has been.
Why are we talking about it now it was done 22 years ago.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Wind, Sand, and Stars (5.10 A2+ R)
By: Ron Thompson When: Sep 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route is not destroyed ! The bolts were placed on the sheer part of the wall not in the crack system . The route is safer now because of the soft sandstone in that area.Larry Coates is wrong about the route being destroyed it is not .
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Ryan Campground : Headstone Rock : ... : Photo
By: Ron Thompson When: Aug 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was once a excellent bolt ladder on the otherside of Headstone Rock a great practice area for aid climbing with a cliffhanger move at the top! This Route was destroyed because some climbers like to be God ! Play God in your own backyard not in the National Park. The climber who destroyed this route was peeing in his diaper when this route was established !
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