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 ADVANCED
In the cow pasture below the Tre Cime de Lavaredo, after climbing Spitagoras, a 12-pitch 10a route. <br /> <br />Photo by <a href='/u/bruce-hildenbrand//11057'>Bruce Hildenbrand</a>


Member Since: Jan 1, 2001
Last Visit: Jan 4, 2011
Contact Ron Olsen


Point Rank: # 17
Total Points: 11,938
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330 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 3958 | Routes 363 | Areas 77 | Photos 1330 | Page Improvments | Comments 498 | Posts 888 | Stars 508 | Ratings 294
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Bailey's Overhang (5.8)
By: Ron Olsen When: Aug 10, 2009

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Comments: Thanks for taking care of this, Greg!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower
By: Ron Olsen When: Jul 26, 2009

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Comments: Agree with Greg; the stainless-steel ring in the Fixe Trad anchor is plenty strong, and it isn't even the weakest link in the rappel chain. Other non-redundant components: your belay/rappel carabiner (25kN), your harness (16kN) and your rappel device. I talked with a Fixe USA rep and he said they have never heard of one of these rings failing. They wouldn't be selling this anchor if it wasn't absolutely bombproof.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
By: Ron Olsen When: Jul 5, 2009

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Comments:
Rick Casey wrote:
There is a new bolted route just left of Group Therapy, which I led today, which I believe has been put in since fall 2008. Felt like 5.10+ at a couple of moves in the crux near top, though most of rest of route was easier. If I'm not mistakened, I do not see that this route is documented here. Is this a new route, or am I mistakened? Thanks for the info...

Rick,
The climb immediately to the left of Group Therapy is High Hard One, which is documented on this site. The c... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sleeping Beauty
By: Ron Olsen When: Jun 9, 2009

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Comments: Condition Report

As of 6/8/09, the Sleeping Beauty tyrolean (by the Boulderado/Animal World parking area) is no more. All the ropes have been removed and there is no trace left. The removal happened some time in the past month, perpetrated by persons unknown.

Climbers wanting to climb at Sleeping Beauty or the Beer Can during periods of high water (like now) will have to use the Vampire Rock tyrolean, several hundred yards downstream, and hike back up the far side of Boulder Creek.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
By: Ron Olsen When: May 25, 2009

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Comments: cdg -- the most people I've seen at the Bihedral is 31 (not 45), on a sunny and warm Sunday Feb. 22, 2009. The Bihedral is one of the nicest places in Boulder Canyon for moderate climbing on warm winter days; hence the crowds.

We've done our best to make the area safe and fun. All of my new routes have lowering hooks instead of ring anchors, which reduces the possibility of screwups while cleaning toprope anchors, and lets climbers get in more pitches in less time. The climbs are well... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area
By: Ron Olsen When: May 23, 2009

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Comments: Condition report
As of 5/23/09, the raptor closure on Blob Rock has been lifted, and the area is now open to climbing. The eagles did not nest there this year, and the Forest Service lifted the closure early.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Sherwood Forest
By: Ron Olsen When: May 23, 2009

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Comments: Condition report
On 5/23/09, Bruno Hache and I finished work on the new tyrolean. The old tyrolean came down over the winter when part of the road-side boulder that the tyrolean was attached to fell off into the creek. There are now two static ropes on the tyrolean, and a hand-line/foot-loop to help getting back on the road-side boulder.

You can park at the Happy Hour pullout and walk upstream, or park at the Bihedral pullout and walk downstream, to get to the tyrolean. It's attached t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier)
By: Ron Olsen When: May 21, 2009

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Comments: Don't use the rappel if you don't want to -- but it's useful in bad weather, if you have a heavy pack, or if it's getting dark. I did a lot of route development at the crag in the winter, and came down that rappel by headlamp several times, with a 40-lb. pack. I wouldn't have wanted to do the 3rd-class downclimb in those conditions.

So all you hardmen, do the downclimb blindfolded if it makes you feel superior to us gumbies who do the rappel -- I really don't care. The rap anchor is staying.

... more >>


Location: Marc H : Randoms : Photo
By: Ron Olsen When: May 13, 2009

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Comments: One less pack-chewing critter to worry about...way to go, rattler!


Location: CO : Telluride/Norwood area : Ophir
By: Ron Olsen When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: Rob -- Leo Paik, an MP.com administrator, added Ophir as part of the reorganization of Colorado by geographical area several years ago. This was done to improve the organization of the Colorado route database, not to "score points." I'm sure that Leo would have provided better info if he were more familiar with the Ophir area.

If you have better info for Ophir, please add it as a comment, or contact Leo to have it incorporated into the area description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon
By: Ron Olsen When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: Phil, Boulder Open Space and Mountain Parks (OSMP) closed the Boulder Falls area on March 30 "until further notice due to potentially unsafe conditions in the cliffs above the falls." No date was set for reopening the area.

I heard a tourist had been injured by a falling rock.

See Daily Camera article and the OSMP website.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: Ron Olsen When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: When you're climbing or descending from this route, stay out of the loose gully on the left, and stay on the slab to the right. There are a number of loose rocks in and left of the gully that are too big to trundle, since they might go all the way to the road. Please do your best to avoid them.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips
By: Ron Olsen When: Apr 11, 2009

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Comments: Phil, the route left of The Throttle (and next to the old trad route Quagmire) is called Giggity! Giggity!. FA by Bob D'Antonio and Greg Hand. It will be documented in Bob D'Antonio's new Boulder Canyon guidebook, due out this summer.

FYI, Quagmire is a character on the animated TV show Family Guy -- one of his favorite sayings is "Giggity! Giggity!". Greg is responsible for the route name!




Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Sister Morphine (5.9)
By: Ron Olsen When: Mar 18, 2009

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Comments: Interesting, Dave. I didn't see a rap anchor for Sister Morphine in any recent FHRC applications. I wonder if this anchor was officially approved by the park. I don't think Eldorado Canyon State Park would approve cutting down a tree either...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : High Exposure (5.6) : Photo
By: Ron Olsen When: Mar 5, 2009

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Comments: On a toprope, which you can see if you enlarge the photo.


Location: CO : Call for Outdoor Writers - ...
By: Ron Olsen When: Feb 16, 2009

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Comments:
Shell wrote:
So, grow some balls and don't take it personal.

Shouldn't that be "Don't take it personally"?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : A Fly in the Ointment (5.10a)
By: Ron Olsen When: Oct 19, 2008

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Comments: A pumpy and committing route. We toproped the line after leading Tool King. The moves past the three bolts are strenuous liebacking and it looked difficult to let go to make the third clip. If you're not a solid 5.10 leader, better to toprope this line.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : ... : Photo (Copy)
By: Ron Olsen When: Oct 6, 2008

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Comments: The descent arrow points in the correct direction. From the top of Wind Ridge, you head climber's right (east) about 30' to a notch, downclimb a bit, and then turn left (north) and traverse several hundred feet on 3rd-class terrain to get to the descent notch and the rappel anchor.

You do not head directly left from the top of Wind Ridge to get to the descent.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Turkey Jerky (5.10)
By: Ron Olsen When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: Solid 5.10 getting off the ground; have a spotter or stick-clip the first bolt. Pumpy and sustained crux comes just above. The top half of the route is easier, but still no gimme. Very fun climbing!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Gondolier Arete (5.10-)
By: Ron Olsen When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: Another steep, fun route. The crux at the last bolt was a little tricky and felt harder than 10a.

On September 15, there were only a few remnants of poison ivy at the base, but be careful when you pull the rope.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Canal Zone : Made In The Shade (5.9-)
By: Ron Olsen When: Sep 15, 2008

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Comments: A really fun pitch with a bunch of 5.9 moves. Well bolted for a 5.9 leader; more advanced climbers may be comfortable skipping a few clips.

My 70m rope (Mammut Infinity Duodess) was not long enough to lower the leader to the ground; it came up about 20' short.

There is a good ledge about 15 feet below the top anchor; I think it would be a good idea to install an anchor here, to allow lowering all the way to the ground for those of us with shorter or less stretchy... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon
By: Ron Olsen When: Jul 24, 2008

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Comments: Tonnere Tower is a good summer crag. Sport Land, on the east face, is in full shade after 2pm this time of year. Treasure Wall, The Garden, and Creekside, on the north face, are in shade for much of the day. The routes at Creekside are right next to Boulder Creek, and get cool breezes off the creek as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Photo
By: Ron Olsen When: Jul 12, 2008

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Comments: Mike - check the option settings in Autostitch. You can create a higher resolution photo if you set the options properly (Output Size, JPEG quality). Be warned -- it will take a long time to generate!


Location: International : North America : Mexico : Northern Mexico : El Potrero Chico : ... : The Scariest Ride in the Pa... (5.9 X)
By: Ron Olsen When: Jul 6, 2008

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Comments: It's also the route on which Jimmy Ray Forester lost his life attempting a free solo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Avalon : Third Tier : ... : Mystery Tour (5.9)
By: Ron Olsen When: Jul 1, 2008

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Comments: A nice, physical corner crack -- too bad it's not longer. Two #2 Camalots and two #3 Camalots protect the widest sections well -- no need for anything larger. Smaller gear useful below and above the wide part. No need to tape up -- the crack isn't too rough.

Belay at the tree at the top and bring your partner up. Then do Dragon Fly and Dragon Slayer which start at this tree.

Thanks to Richard and Pebby for their hard work to open up these lines.


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