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Member Since: Jul 6, 2008
Last Visit: Dec 5, 2014
Contact ron amick


Point Rank: # 1,410
Total Points: 444
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 3
14 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 220 | Routes 23 | Areas 1 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements | Comments 49 | Posts 12 | Stars 81 | Ratings 24
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : San Gorgonio Mountain
By: ron amick When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: In 1977 we snowshoed to dry lake in winter, must have been 10 ft snowpack on the entire dry lake plateau, we camped on the snow. The N face of san gorgonio rises directly up from dry lake, maybe 1500 ft of moderate angle snow that would be class 2/3 hiking in summer. We snowshoed over a series of ledges until it got too steep, then put on crampons and climbed the snow crust to the summit. The top was a sheet of ice, very windy. To descend we did a glissade down the east coulouir, which was a bla... more >>


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Mt. San Jacinto : Snow Creek (4th AI1-2 Mod. Snow)
By: ron amick When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: benjamin, #1 and #2 are not in the contiguous lower 48 states and telescope peak is debatable, but nowhere near as impressive as the n face of san jacinto. You can call san jacinto a granite escarpment but cant say the same for telescope. If your are going for ground to summit rise there are lots of candidates on the eastern sierra escarpment. Lone Pine peak and Mt morrison, and maybe mt tom come to mind.


Location: CA : San Jacinto Mountains : Mt. San Jacinto : Snow Creek (4th AI1-2 Mod. Snow)
By: ron amick When: Dec 5, 2014

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Comments: Back in 1978 Paul Smith and I set out to climb snow creek in summer. We had no info whatsoever, just intended to follow the creek. We had 50 lb packs with provisions for 3 days, a small rack and a length of 9mm rope. Unbeknownst to us, following the water course put us on the seldom climbed west fork of snow creek. Day one was a series of pools and small waterfalls, and we climbed water polished, holdless rock up to 5.6 to get around and over them. Was harrowing. After about 2,000 ft of that we ... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Masters of the Universe : Slap and Tickle (V3)
By: ron amick When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: yah to the right of KPs demise


Location: CA : San Diego County : El Cajon Mountain : Left Wall : Meteor (5.8)
By: ron amick When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: what does 5.8+ mean? That would be 5.9 in my book, its not like theres a huge gap between the 2 ratings


Location: CA : San Diego County : Photo
By: ron amick When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Bouldering at the beach is so cool. I remember when the beach cliffs were 15 feet tall in places, but sand washed in and gradually raised the beach to where the clifftop was waist high. Looks like some of that sand has been sucked back out to sea. Glad to see it.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area
By: ron amick When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: Its funny that people are naming routes that were put up before they were born. If you didnt do the FA, you cant name the route, and 99% of the problems at santee are 30+ years old.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Uncertainty Principle Area : Kurtains For Certain (5.12)
By: ron amick When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: Doug is correct


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Uncertainty Principle Area : The Painted Boulders (5.10)
By: ron amick When: Apr 5, 2012

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Comments: There is only one painted boulder, which would be the one with the paint streak facing the road. What used to be a thick white swath of paint is now a faded stain.

The boulder next to painted boulder is know as "the boulder next to painted boulder". It is not painted, but does have some good climbs on it.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders
By: ron amick When: Feb 17, 2012

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Comments: LOL welcome to san diego, T Bone. Ive been climbing in San Diego county for over 35 years, and Ive climbed elsewhere in CA yosemite, the sierra, idylwild, joshua tree etc. Ive also climbed all around the country, as well as in canada, mexico, finland and russia, and I have found a huge disparity in ratings from one place to another. Theres nothing you can do about it, so you dont whine, you suck it up and you go by the local ratings. I saw 5.9s in Germany that were 5.11+ to me. Ive also seen 5.... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Santee Boulders : Moby Dick Area : Animal Boulder : Long Tall Texan (V4)
By: ron amick When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: This is entirely wrong. The problem described here is called "Long Tall Texan" by Greg Epperson. Rons Pharmacy starts on the ledge and climbs straight up the impossibly blank NW face of the boulder. I rated it V7 and i dont think it has been repeated.

I always thought that there might be just enough there, with the combination of friction and angle, for it to go. I had been on it dozens of times over the years and gotten nowhere.

Then one day it was like a harmonic convergence - i had new sho... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Mission Gorge Traverse (5.8)
By: ron amick When: Jan 7, 2012

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Comments: Be sure to place protection for the follower! If you run it out you will leave him looking at a grounder.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Nutcracker (5.9)
By: ron amick When: Jan 7, 2012

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Comments: classic gorge 5.9. you can avoid the guano if you watch what youre doing


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Mission Gorge Bouldering : Alley Oop Boulder : Left Hand Oop (5.9)
By: ron amick When: Jan 7, 2012

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Comments: Actually Alley Oop was the first route on the rock, which is why we called this one lefthand oop


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Mission Gorge Bouldering : Alley Oop Boulder : Alley Oop (5.10c)
By: ron amick When: Jan 7, 2012

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Comments: FA is unknown, early 70s, not by M Paul


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Never Intended (5.10b)
By: ron amick When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: FA Art Messier? I dont think so, this route was put up in 1977


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Lunch Rock : Lunch Rock Slab (5.10a)
By: ron amick When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: FA by Jim Bridwell?? Where did that come from? FA is unknown


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Mission Gorge Bouldering : Alley Oop Boulder : Moonage Daydream (5.11a)
By: ron amick When: Jan 3, 2012

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Comments: FA was 1980


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Jaws Boulder Area : The Fake Eppulator (V5+)
By: ron amick When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: Henny and Greg are right about the real eppulator being the dike problem facing the road, on adjacent boulder, gary is right about eppersons lunge being at santee not woodson (greg epperson had nothing to do with the the problem in question) and Doug is correct about it being called the B1 lunge BITD

...my 2 cents


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Jaws Boulder Area : Worst Climb In The World (5.11b)
By: ron amick When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: in the 80s this was being called "boys club"


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : General Dynamics (5.11a)
By: ron amick When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: FA was by Galen Kirkwood, Bob Van Belle and Mike Paul in 1980. I put in the bolts and did the first lead in 1980, 2 weeks after it was put up.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Absorbine Junior (5.10c)
By: ron amick When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: FA was 1980


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Left Overture (5.11a)
By: ron amick When: Dec 9, 2011

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Comments: The FA was actually 1980, this appeared in my 1980 guide to Mission gorge


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Tower Two Area : Chopper Mantel (V0)
By: ron amick When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: Gotta disagree with ebb, because this is a classic clean mantleshelf that offers many difficult variations along it. People who arent into mantles tend to write them off out of a lack of understanding, but San Diego county is loaded with short, rounded rocks that abound with mantle problems, thus the area turns out some of the best mantle climbers to be found anywhere.

If ya think mantles are candy, try cranking some of the harder ones around town.

And Ebb, are you calling the NE corner (aka... more >>


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Hear My Train A Comin' Boul... : Scream Seam (5.11a V2)
By: ron amick When: Dec 2, 2011

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Comments: Scream Seam is the original name from long ago. Somebody who had no connection with the FA decided they would call it "california noon" - which would be a lousy name even if they put the route up.

Why do people rename routes that are older than they are? This rename should be abandoned and forgotten


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