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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Oz Buttress : Oz-some (5.8)
By: roman d When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: 50 feet of fun, moderate jamming, followed by 100 feet or so of wandering around looking for anchors (ended up coming down above Tin Man)
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - South : Mellow Yellow (5.10a)
By: roman d When: Apr 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: good warmup
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Isolation Canyon : Main Wall - Center : Gone Grey (5.10b)
By: roman d When: Apr 23, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some poop present, but avoidable and not nearly as bad as what is going on over at the bottom of Volvonator.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Poop Chute (5.10-)
By: roman d When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb, though the protection/rock quality through the crux leaves something to be desired.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Broken Arete (5.9)
By: roman d When: Apr 5, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was a little spooked plugging cams into the splitter tips crack near the crux. I didn't really trust the rock to hold falls until I got into the corner. Great climb and awesome exposure though!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : X-tra Marital Sex (5.11 PG13)
By: roman d When: Mar 31, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tyler and I did this on 3/28/10 thinking it was 10b. Quite a surprise! We probably spent as much time clearing caked mud off holds as we did climbing. Very off-balance and committing, though well protected. The grade is probably height-dependent. Similar to the first pitch of the Windows Route, but much harder.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: roman d When: Mar 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the state of the anchors at the top of pitch 3? The Bloom guide mentions that another bolt is needed, but that info is 8-10 years old.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : The Windows Route (5.10)
By: roman d When: Mar 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: What an awesome, diverse, and physical climb!
With a 70m rope, we just barely made it down to the lower window (top of P1) from the top chains.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Pre-Marital Sex (5.10b)
By: roman d When: Mar 29, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did the direct start today (1 bolt) and got spanked. Awkward stemming right off the deck. Took a few tries... awesome climb, but enough loose rock to warrant caution in some spots. We cleaned a 200lb or so flake towards the top (just left of the route, it looked ok, then I put a piece behind it, tugged, and nearly launched the block off right then!)
Also, 4-5 #1 camalots would not be uncalled for, especially if doing the direct start
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Andy Kaufman Crack (5.10)
By: roman d When: Mar 22, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way fun, especially getting from the OW pod to the anchors!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : High Man on the Shmotem Pol... (5.11-)
By: roman d When: Mar 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Way to go!
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Sheep Pass Area : Saddle Rocks Area : Saddle Rocks : ... : Walk on the Wild Side (5.8)
By: roman d When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent line, easily done as 2 pitches. A single 70m rope gets you down without hassle.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Pinched Rib (5.10b)
By: roman d When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Super fun line. No way is the short, well protected crux 10b. Felt closer to 9.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Chimney Rock : Chimney Rock - West Face : Damper (5.9)
By: roman d When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb to do at the end of the day - felt pretty cruiser for 5.9 since I have big hands. bring a couple nuts to back up a comfy belay seat at the top, or a couple 2-3" pieces to use the crack at the top of Pinched Rib. Tricky walk-off
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Mars Attacks (5.9 PG13)
By: roman d When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I found the approach pretty straightforward. Even though I was off the trail, it still only took ~30min
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Superstition Mountains
By: roman d When: Mar 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are bolts of varying vintage on the 500' face just south of the road xing that follow a water streak most of the way to the top. I came in from the top last February and rapped down in 3 or 4 double rope raps. There is a newish 3 bolt chain anchor at the top, followed by a shitty three bolt anchor with pop-tab hangers and rusty chains, and then newer anchors below.
The lower 2-300' looks pretty mellow with good bolts, while the upper section looks much harder with scary bolts. Some pictur... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Pusch Peak
By: roman d When: Feb 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think the closure goes all the way north to Cargodera Cyn, just north of Golder Dome.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Pusch Ridge : Pusch Peak
By: roman d When: Feb 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this area is closed from January 1 - April 30 each year for bighorn lambing...
www.sahcinfo.org/file.axd?file=2009%2F12%2FPusch+Ridge+Wilde>>>
(map on 3rd page)
www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado/forest/recreation/rock_climbing/ro>>>
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: roman d When: Feb 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sunsets are always more beautiful when you are rappelling...
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : The Shmotem Pole
By: roman d When: Feb 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The summit register (nalgene) is pretty badly bleached/cracked, and the inside was pretty damp. It could use a couple ziplocs or such to keep the notebook dry over the long-term
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : The Shmotem Pole (5.10b)
By: roman d When: Feb 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easily my favorite route out here. Interesting crux moves, lots of exposure, and a terrific summit.
A little bit dirty from the rains, but the difficult sections are all well-protected and on good rock - seems to be cleaning up nicely!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Blueberry Lizards (5.9)
By: roman d When: Feb 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: kind of rough around the edges still. I wandered left into the corner and got rewarded with a basketball that crashed down on the midway ledge.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Hackberry Creek : Easy Street (5.7)
By: roman d When: Jan 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun climb! I'm guessing many of the bolts could be skipped in favor of gear placements if so desired...
70 m rope will get you within 3-5m of the belay ledge. Easy to swing left and downclimb the gully. Chains on top are nice change of pace from all the webbing out here.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Blast from the Past (Isaac'... (5.10)
By: roman d When: Jan 19, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is awesome and burly - I felt the crux was mainly just endurance through strenuous cupped hands and fists. It would have been nice to save a #3 for the last bit before the anchors, but the climbing is much easier.
Also, I replaced the tat at the 1st anchor (Jan 2010)
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Cathedral Rock Area : ... : Original Route (5.9+)
By: roman d When: Jan 12, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: A single 70m rope gets you down with room to spare
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