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Rock Climbing Photo: Whoever this guy is, he's just plain irresponsible...


Member Since: Sep 5, 2011
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact rogerbenton

Point Rank: # 2,572
Total Points: 274
Last Year: 15
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has rogerbenton been climbing?










Contributions


All 536 | Routes 5 | Areas | Photos 32 | Page Improvements | Comments 64 | Posts 329 | Stars 86 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Finger Locks or Cedar Box (5.5)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: Pro is G all the way (obviously, it's a crack), don't know how it could be construed as pg-13...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : f. The Guides' Wall (Madame... : Friends and Lovers (5.9 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: I'm giving the first pitch a PG-13: there is gear enough to keep you off the deck but there are definitely ugly falls possible, and on less than stellar placements.

Fun pitch, great face climbing.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : (d) Northwest Recess : Whodunit (5.9) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 30, 2012

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Comments: holy shit!
way to keep it together.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Hans' Puss (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2012

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Comments: there are some good sized loose blocks at the P1 traverse, careful.

i thought P2 had sparse gear, although the traverse is protected at beginning and end. it's PG by the "crux is protected" rules but you definitely make a few moves feeling like you wish you had some more gear in.

there's a pin at the end of the P2 traverse, go ahead and clip it to be safe but there's a C3 about 3 feet above it and it's totally worth the small downclimb to unclip the pin and alleviate some rope drag.

another... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 18, 2012

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Comments: yeah, this is the point where you have to start zig zagging a little to get in gear.

great, great pitch.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : h. The Arrow Wall - CCK : Three Doves (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Aug 25, 2012

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Comments: What a great route.

Pin under roof on P2 seems fine. the moves to and after it are great.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Cakewalk (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: Jul 8, 2012

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Comments: pitch one was a fun lead. we did the final easy pitches to the top because i wanted my partner to see the top of the cliff. Here's my description of them:

(text moved) We walked climbers' right through waist high grass to rappel from the bolts above Arrow, and were rewarded with the sweet, insidious itch of chiggers the next night. Awesome.

Thanks, Roger, I moved your description of the upper pitches to the route description! JSH


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : l. Cuckoo's Nest : 1-800-Stick-It Arete (5.10a)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: this should get climbed more often, especially if you already have a rope over yellow wallpaper on the psycho block wall (which is two feet away).

from TR on yellow wallpaper bolts you can reach a couple cams in horizontals directly over the arete as directionals. we used .3 and .4 C4's but you can get fingertip to hand size pro in under that roof and on the face above.

hell, from TR on yellow wallpaper you can stem over to the top of the arete under the big roof and place gear directionals f... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : i. Terror Dome : Nutmaster (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: the regular start is not as shown with the red dotted line in the photo. you start up on the blocks to the right of the arete and traverse left onto the face, then up.

the direct start has two options-

start all the way to the right and hand traverse the horizontal crack under the roof,

or stretch (if you're not tall get a boost) to reach the pointy horn directly under the arete and hit a couple big campus moves to a stance.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : i. Terror Dome : A Portrait of the Artist as... (5.8+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: i thought this had a few nice moves.

this also has a possible direct start but it's dicey:

jump to the good hold under the main face at the arete and campus/heel hook your way to a stance. a little harder than the direct start to the route on the right.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Ar... : Arete I (5.9 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: we basically straddled the arete the whole way and it felt like a pretty easy 5.8 at most.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : j. Scrotum Pole/Drive in Ar... : Easy Rider (5.6 R)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: i call it PG.
after the starting moves theres a bd .75 from an almost hands free stance.
there's a .4 above that.
then theres a #2 out left you can extend.
then you're at the top and the bolts are right there.

you can set up TR anchors in such a way as to hit this pitch and the "5.9" on the arete (felt like easy 5.7) then flip the anchor sling over and it's positioned perfectly for "sac's fifth avenue" 5.11 on the adjacent face.


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : m. Psycho Wall : The Yellow Wallpaper (5.9+)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: the bolts are there but they don't have rings so it's best to pull rope up from the top and rap down from the bolts (with rings) to climber's right over 'psycho crack right'.

felt way easy for 5.9+...


Location: NY : The Gunks : Peterskill : m. Psycho Wall : Psycho Crack Left (5.8 PG13)
By: rogerbenton When: Jun 24, 2012

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Comments: for an anchor you can use the bolts over yellow wallpaper with a direction piece of gear over PCL.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Fitschen's Folly (5.8 X)
By: rogerbenton When: May 26, 2012

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Comments: TR'd this soaking wet today. Nerve racking!

Really nice face climb though, felt a little easier than the thin stuff on Three doves and Arrow. Totally worth doing after Ken's or Boston.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Laurel (5.7)
By: rogerbenton When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: The "hard moves" to start are really one awkward move to a gear placing stance.

Very nice route, and the fist jam at the top is an awesome last move.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : c. Frog's Head - the Arch : Wrist (5.6)
By: rogerbenton When: May 21, 2012

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Comments: that fixed cam (#3 wired bliss??) is still in the P2 roof and feels solid but easily backed up with a #2 C4.

really fun route.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : k. The Slime Wall : Simple Suff (5.10a/b) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Mar 4, 2012

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Comments: that sling/biner situation looks scary.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 23, 2012

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Comments: is that a nissan patrol?!?!?!
i didn't know you could even get those in the states...


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Sente (5.9) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 14, 2012

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Comments: great view of what looks like the thin slabs direct traverse above and right of the tree.
definitely a good destination after sente.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Bonnie's Roof (5.9)
By: rogerbenton When: Jan 4, 2012

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Comments: R.I.P. Bonnie, thanks for all the great lines.
Love this route!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+)
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: Sente (5.9) followed by the direct third pitch is a money route.
"gather your marbles", indeed!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : g. V3 - Middle Earth : Thin Slabs / Thin Slabs Dir... (5.7+) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 27, 2011

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Comments: yes! +1 on killer!


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : d. Strictly - Shockley's : Shockley's Ceiling (5.6) : Photo
By: rogerbenton When: Oct 11, 2011

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Comments: YEAH!
NICE JOB CRYSTAL!!!


Location: NY : New York City : Central Park : Rat Rock : The flake (V0-1)
By: rogerbenton When: Sep 28, 2011

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Comments: This problem starts right between the two large oak trees. In addition to the "traverse left to the rail" topout and the crystal topout on the right, one can also avoid the rail, crank straight up from the top of the flake to a small knob and pull/mantle up to the top.


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