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Top of First Flatiron


Member Since: Oct 17, 2005
Last Visit: Aug 22, 2012
Contact Roger Linfield


Point Rank: # 24
Total Points: 10,176
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Roger Linfield been climbing?










Contributions


All 1828 | Routes 842 | Areas 115 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 21 | Posts 12 | Stars 835 | Ratings 1

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Salisbury Steak Crack (5.8+)
By: Roger Linfield When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: Tony's description is accurate. The photo in the D'Antonio guidebook is not accurate. The line up Salisbury Steak Crack is labeled as being Cow Patty Crack. Cow Patty Crack (accurately illustrated here on MountainProject) is around the corner to the right, not visible in the D'Antonio photo.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mine Hole Crag : Couch Potato (5.10-)
By: Roger Linfield When: Nov 14, 2012

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Comments: When I climbed this route today, there were five bolts. From the second bolt on Sofa Kingdom, move up and left, past a third bolt, to the base of the flake. Above the flake, there were two more bolts on the arete.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Sunset Flatironette : Steppin' Out (5.8 PG13)
By: Roger Linfield When: Oct 11, 2010

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Comments: When Chris Zeller and I climbed this route recently, I was able to protect the opening move by slinging the initial flake. Several standard length runners, strung together, were needed. This seemed solid, so I'd remove the "R" from the rating.

We both enjoyed the climb.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Loveland : Tiger Rocks : Fly Away (5.10d)
By: Roger Linfield When: Sep 22, 2010

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Comments: Dennis Yates and I climbed this route in November, 1986. He suggested the name First Inversion, as we thought ours might be the first ascent. We were pretty excited about the fun crux sequence.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Smoother (5.7 X)
By: Roger Linfield When: Apr 22, 2010

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Comments: I've only climbed this route once, as a free solo. Past the first 20 feet, it does indeed ease up to 5.6. However, it felt like there was a lot of 5.6 in the next 300 feet.


Location: CO : Rare Auction of Eldorado Cl...
By: Roger Linfield When: Aug 14, 2007

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Comments: To get directly to the photo auction site, you can use this url:
www.aceeldo.org/celebrate_eldorado/photo_auction_2007.php


Location: CO : Eldorado State Park Accide...
By: Roger Linfield When: May 31, 2007

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Comments: Putting a dog tag on the Washington Irving anchor might reduce the risk of climbers being lowered off the ends of their ropes ON THAT ROUTE. However, if climbers see a warning label on one anchor and not another, they will tend to assume that the second one is safe, and the overall accident rate might increase. It's really a slippery slope, as several previous messages on this thread have pointed out.

If more belayers tied in to the ends of their ropes, it would reduce the risk on all routes.... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : unnamed classic hand crack ... (5.10+)
By: Roger Linfield When: Feb 27, 2007

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Comments: I agree with the 5.11a rating, even though it is hand size most of the way. I used mostly #2.5 and #3 friends (11 total).


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Broken Tooth : Dental Floss Tycoon (5.11-)
By: Roger Linfield When: Feb 27, 2007

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Comments: This is a long (maybe more like 165' than 150'), fun route. My partner and I agreed that 5.10b is a more appropriate rating.


Location: CO : Colorado Closures
By: Roger Linfield When: Feb 21, 2007

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Comments: The Cathedral Spires closure usually starts on March 1. Is it different this year? It's always difficult to get exact information on the closed areas here. The Dome, The Bishop, and Cynical Pinnacle are definitely closed, but I've never been able to get a definite answer about Poe Buttress or Sunshine Wall. In fact, it's not clear to me who the agency/owner responsible for the closure is. Inquiries about this topic to Jefferson County Open Space have gone unanswered, perhaps due to the mess... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Hound Rock : An Eye to the West (5.9)
By: Roger Linfield When: Sep 11, 2006

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Comments: I'll add a comment about the first ascent team. Lyman Spitzer was 65 at the time of the first ascent. He was the chairman of the Princeton astronomy department for many years, and a colleague of Albert Einstein. Spitzer was the first person to suggest (in 1946, years before any satellites were launched) that a telescope be placed in space to overcome the distorting effects of the Earth's atmosphere. This suggestion eventually led to the Hubble Space Telescope. For his pioneering work in ast... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Grinch Rock : The Grinch's Grin (5.10d)
By: Roger Linfield When: Apr 18, 2006

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Comments: This climb can also be done as a pure offwidth, with a 5.10C rating. The crux is in the first ten feet. Because of loose flakes inside the crack, the first two bolts are still needed for protection, but #3 - #4 Camalots give good pro up higher.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Confidence (5.10c)
By: Roger Linfield When: Mar 30, 2006

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Comments: This was a very memorable climb for Dennis. After spending most of the day at the Gray Giant, we tried to find a shortcut back to the main trail. By mistake, we stumbled into the broad valley between the Fortress and Flying Fortress, and then looked around in amazement. It was Dennis' turn to lead, and despite the late hour he picked this climb. It was his first ever 5.10 crack lead, but he went up it smoothly. After I followed, we quickly scrambled down, and then hiked out in the dark. Hi... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland North : Flying Fortress : No Self Respect (5.10d)
By: Roger Linfield When: Mar 30, 2006

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Comments: When Dennis Yates and I did this climb (after removing a large, very loose chockstone on rappel), we rated it 5.10B. We gave it a different name, but Randy's name has stuck.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Whale's Back (5.11-)
By: Roger Linfield When: Mar 1, 2006

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Comments: Climbers with large hands will find the top part of this climb more difficult. I thought it was 5.10c. My partners with smaller hands said 5.10a or b.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess : Wong Climb (5.8)
By: Roger Linfield When: Feb 24, 2006

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Comments: The second pitch is well-protected with gear up to 4 inches.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : Northwest Recess
By: Roger Linfield When: Feb 24, 2006

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Comments: An alternative descent (and the easiest one) is to scramble southeast to a saddle and then take a trail clockwise around the rock.


Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Tahquitz Rock : West Face : West Face - Center (Flintst... : Angel's Fright (5.5)
By: Roger Linfield When: Feb 21, 2006

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Comments: The belay ledges on this climb are all quite large, making this a good choice if you have three or more climbers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : Land of Ra (5.11a)
By: Roger Linfield When: Nov 16, 2005

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Comments: The previous info was very helpful, and I'll just add a few comments. Near the start, I climbed up to the top of the shallow, left-facing dihedral, placed protection (with a long runner), climbed back down, and then went directly up to the first bolt. Even with the gear in the dihedral, a #3 Camalot in a pocket below the bolt (with a double length sling) was welcome. The slot for the #4 Camalot was between the third and fourth bolt, and shortened the long runout getting up to the fo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : West Ironing Board : Green Chimney (5.4)
By: Roger Linfield When: Nov 2, 2005

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Comments: I would recommend the longer approach, via the saddle above Jaws/West Ironing Board. This makes it easy to find the climb - you just scramble down from the saddle, staying close to the rock, and the route pops into view.

This morning, there was a fixed rope on the 4th class descent chimney. That rope was anchored quite a ways back at the top - it would be difficult to set a sling there and retrieve a doubled rappel rope. In any case, the downclimb is fairly easy and secure. The fixed rope w... more >>


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Ice Box (later renamed by s... : Lichen Lung (5.10d)
By: Roger Linfield When: Oct 17, 2005

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Comments: I climbed both Lichen Lung and Mud in Your Eye last weekend, and thought that the guidebook ratings (5.10d and 5.11a) were correct. The nature of the climbing is quite different on the two routes, making a comparison more subjective than normal. If you're not used to chimneys, the entry move into the first slot on Lichen Lung could seem harder than 5.10d. Both climbs were high quality routes.