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Rock Climbing Photo: Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; ...


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: Apr 15, 2016
Contact Rodger Raubach

Point Rank: # 60
Total Points: 6,767
Last Year: 132
Last 30 Days: 0
94 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 2098 | Routes 71 | Areas 44 | Photos 982 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 475 | Posts 8 | Stars 301 | Ratings 213
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Chimney (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: The Location needs a slight correction to be "just left of Oak Tree Flake," and not "hanging Flake."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stegasaurus (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Donno- You are correct, and the new photo shows the rock well. There were no bolts when I did the route years ago.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: After looking at some of my older pictures and reading some of the other comments here, I'd suggest a provisional PG-13 rating for the first pitch. The North Face, although somewhat more difficult, is very well-protected from the start. A leader fall on this climb's first pitch probably wouldn't be fatal but would result in more than a wounded ego.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Rodger being belayed by Brian Underhill, and Alan Carlson on the ridge above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: To keep everybody (myself included) happy, why don't we simply call the route "Stichter Quit Before He Got the Anchor in Place?"

I'd more seriously suggest the substructure be called the "Black Tide Dike," and keep the present name as a route thereon.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Punta Fiames : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: If the Camin del Frasto is running with water, an alternative line may be climbed to the left at 5.7+/5.8-.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Punta Fiames : South Face, "Via Commune." (5.6 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: This route is listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler/ Norbert Memel, Baton-Wicks London, (1998).
The Via Commune is route #50, and a good topo is included therein. My description above is from my first-hand experience on the first 4 pitches before traversing over to the "spigolo." Maurizio de Zanna gave me a rudimentary topo and some beta at the time. Said it was very unprotected, but the climbing was fairly easy and straightforward. As a general rule, t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Bought the lid in Germany in 1964 for climbing in the Dolomites.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Entrance Crack (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I did this climb on the day before Christmas, 1986. I didn't have a guidebook other than "Dixie Crystals," and I sure didn't have a #6 Camalot (they didn't exist then!). In fact, I don't even remember placing any pro after the tree. I thought it was mentally more difficult than anything on the Great Arch Route that my GF and I did subsequently.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I have always used a wired stopper slotted behind the flake, and it's less likely to damage it should a fall occur. I'd say this is a PG13 move up to the first bolt; not really a death fall possible at the start, but a great leg or ankle breaker.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Gotcha Bush (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: This route has been "loved to death," because the ground level has gotten lower over the years. The naming feature, the "Gotcha Bush," is nowhere to be seen. The start is more difficult now than in the 1980's. Still, an Indian Cove favorite of mine.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Englishman's Route (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: After reading all these route descriptions, it's apparent that Bob LaGrange and I climbed something of an "integrale" of the Love route and the Englishman's Route. There was nothing that we considered 5.9, but there was some what we thought was maybe 5.7. BITD, we weren't that sure of the YDS Grading system, hence everything was under-graded and is now considered "sandbagged."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: When we did this climb in 1966, we speculated that it wasn't going to be too long before it was climbed entirely free. The big changes came with the advent of better shoes and use of passive hardware (nuts) instead of pitons for protection. We were trying a "as free as we can" ascent at the time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: The FFA was done by John Thomas (physics student at UW in Laramie.), sometime around 1962-63. I was still in the Army when it was done. When I climbed it ~ 1966, it still had an awesome reputation for being the ultimate "hard man" climb in Eldorado Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Bob Culp and I did this climb in early November of 1966. We used no more than 4-5 points of aid at the time and were placing/pulling pitons. We really didn't have any concept of how hard it was and simply were still calling everything this difficult "hard 5.9." See my photos recently added! Not too shabby in Kronhofer Keltterschue and using a Columbian rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Sigh! Sob! I recently visited Flagstaff after having been away for many (nearly 25!) years. The place has been "loved to death!" The ground level for almost all the boulders has eroded away by 12"-20" for some. I simply left in disgust without putting on my shoes. I was fortunate enough to be climbing there while it was still pretty "virgin." i.e. I started bouldering on Flagstaff in 1959!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Capstan : West Face [The Capstan] (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: I'll agree that this is "too high for me without a rope!" The rating of 10a seems about right.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Torre Seconda (Second Tower...
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: This "area" was added for sake of accuracy in describing the entire area or in German, "Gebeit."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Diagnostics (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: I'll add that a Bouldering Pad is part of the "rack for this climb! I've sure seen a lot of climbers do butt-plants on this one! (Myself included!)


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri Group : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The tower immediately adjacent to Torre Grsnde is Torre Seconda, comprised of Torre Lusy (nearest camera), Torre Barancio, and Torre Romana. The small tower furthest to the R. is Torre Inglese.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Testa del Bartoldo : Testa del Bartoldo (Dimai D... (5.8- PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: I did this climb in July 1964 as a training climb for longer and harder Dolomite climbing. The lower part of the route is rather unexceptional and is usually avoided by the locals by traversing onto the route by means of "Second Ledge." The "roof pitch" is the sole reason for doing the climb, other than physical conditioning for longer and sustained routes. If I can find my shots of the roof being surmounted I'll post them later! My PG 13 rating is based on rock quality, since there's a lot of f... more >>


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : Torre Venezia : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Great picture! The Tissi route follows a line almost identical with the top of the pine tree.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : Cima della Madonna : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: This photo was taken the evening after my ascent of the Scarf Arete earlier in the day.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon and Cristallo Gr... : Punta Fiames
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: I just came across my old German Guidebook:
Dolomiten-Kletterfuehrer II, Dr. Guenther Langes;
the guidebook description : "Eine der elegantesten und reizvollsten Kletterein in den Dolomiten. Im oberen Teil sehr ausgesezt." Translation: One of the most elegant and rewarding rock climbs in the Dolomites. In the upper portion, very exposed.


Location: Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : Torre Venezia
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: I hiked in to the Vazzoler hut in late Summer, and found it was closed at that time. The trail in wasn't too challenging for carrying a moderate pack. I took a secondary path back to my car through the thinly wooded terrain and was amazed at the large number of "little brown snakes," which I later learned were European Common Adders (vipera berus)! I carefully avoided them, having noticed the characteristic triangular heads somewhat reminiscent of Copperheads. so...be advised! These sna... more >>


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