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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 23 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 54
Total Points: 6,433
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1991 | Routes 68 | Areas 48 | Photos 916 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 438 | Posts 8 | Stars 297 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Water Streak (aka Friday's ... (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: I'm adding this comment to clarify what I viewed as a confused situation with "In the Out Door," and "formerly Water Streak II." Above, I've described the original Water Streak route as it was described to me back in the early 1970s by Jeb Schenk. I finally got around to doing the route twice when I again visited Laramie in the mid 1980s, by which time it was an accepted route. My wife led the route in July, 1986, and later that day, Layne Kopischka was up drilling the 4th bolt for the "Kopischk... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: On my (all too infrequent) trips to Joshua Tree, this area is invariably the first stop, snd is a great place to "work out the kinks" after a long drive.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Bill Steal (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 30, 2012

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Comments: This route has a tendency to get vegetated up in the Spring. Other than dealing with the veggies, a nice route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2012

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Comments: Does anyone else that's posting here remember the infamous "beat-on" placed by Clarence Serfoss to protect the initial step up onto the slab? It was there when I first climbed the route in 1968, and it was still there 4 years later. I'd be interested to know what ever became of it.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : In Through The Out Door (fo... (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 27, 2012

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Comments: Something here needs "official" clarification by an administrator! When I originally climbed what I knew as Water Streak, not Water Streak II, it was an "old school" 5.9+ and the Kopischka finish at "old school" 5.10a. These days, after many ascents wearing on the holds, the 5.10a/b rating would seem to be accurate for Water Streak.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Guppie Wall : Fairies Wear Boots (5.10a R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: My above comment pertains to Pokin' the Pup, which is the climb we did now that there's a description of that route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Guppie Wall : Pokin' the Pup (5.10a R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: This is an easily-rigged top rope. The rock is a bit crumbly in a few places; I had an edge or 2 "crunch" off. Pretty nice little climb, but not worth a fall here.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Commitment (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: As a follow up comment to my earlier post: this is probably the best of the harder climbs in the 5 Open Books area, with Munginella being the most "fun."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: I've done the Surprise both ways, the "old way" and the "direct." Do the direct, since it's really an outstanding crack climb at 5.10a. The first belay in an ant tree is "forgettable."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Just be careful after topping out and try not to dislodge rocks on others below. The ledge is dirty and very loose. Still one of my favorites after many years. Some really good but easy climbing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Great White Book (5.6 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: The first ascent of this route was done considerably earlier by Hope Meek and Jim Baldwin; probably around 1964-1965.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: As an historical note: The original climb on this face was named the "Crystal Freeway" by Bob Stevenson in 1968. The name has subsequently been applied to the entire face, and not his original route. The first known line was an unprotected "5.7." It was very "old school" 5.7, and protection was entirely lacking. I remember doing it in Spring, 1969.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Lieback (5.5) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: In this photo, Easy Lieback (5.5) is the right-most corner; the farthest to the left is the TM Chimney, and the shallow dihedral is 5.11 Crack (5.9+). Cold Finger (5.7,and singular case, please!) ascends the rounded arete on the extreme right. Easy Friction (5.5) lies midway between Easy Lieback and Cold Finger.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 7, 2012

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Comments: The East Face of Window Rock is very popular with large groups, beginners, and groups with children! Even though there are numerous routes at the 5.6-5.7 grade, only one set of anchors is available for descent. A single 60 meter rope will suffice for an abseil.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Pure Pleasure (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Did this again on the 4th of July. The length of the climb is almost exactly 100 feet, or half of a 60 meter rope. Always fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: This is a "full value" 5.6! Not any harder, but is a great warmup and also an excellent technique builder for novice climbers. I enjoyed it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Juniper Jam (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: This climb is solid at the grade, but the description above isn't that accurate. There are lots of features available for use, especially on the edges of the crack. I believe I only used 2-3 hand jams, and a couple lieback moves. Otherwise it was a jug haul. Good climb, but not great. Descend by rappel, using the bolts atop Drunken Cowboy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso Direct Start (5.8+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: This is the ONLY way I've ever done Calypso, and although I've rated it as a PG-13, it's more of just an ankle breaker than anything else, should one slip here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Tiger Balm Arete (5.11b R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: Just to keep the record straight here---the first ascent of the line was by Bob Culp and George Hurley in 1965. I don't know the details re: amount of aid used, but knowing those two as I do, there probably wasn't much at all. This was done shortly after the first ascent of Gambit.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Do (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: The FA was indeed by Chris Fredericks, but it was Summer, 1965.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Deviations (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: My GF and I made an attempt on this back in 1982. She led the thin flake portion nicely, and the pro was reasonable using some small wired stoppers and quick-draws. I continued on up a slick lieback above and took a short whipper. She insisted that we go down at that point, since she got jarred catching me. But to answer the implied question, re: protection of the thin flake, it was adequate--probably as good as the flake itself.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: Previous poster's comment re: Poison Ivy is SPOT ON THE MARK! But this is only ONE of the objective hazards involving this route. The lower portion is quite junky and loose; even though there are cracks available for some "pro" they are associated with loose junk. The second pitch however, is fairly enjoyable and reasonably solid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: This climb seems to be suffering from "grade inflation!" It was considered "definition 5.7" when first put up and for quite a few years thereafter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: As an historical note: the FFA was done by Larry Dalke, ~1965.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Drunken Cowboy (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 22, 2012

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Comments: This route is not mentioned in the 7th edition of the Bingham guidebook. It is the next crack directly right from Pure Pleasure. The start may be reached by a short scramble, and avoids the slightly runout start of the 2 preceding routes. The pro possibilities are excellent all the way!


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