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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1821 | Routes 64 | Areas 46 | Photos 796 | Page Improvments | Comments 408 | Posts 7 | Stars 291 | Ratings 209
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 15, 2011

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Comments: The Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel guidebook "Classic Dolomite Climbs" gives this as 4 pitches. A 60 meter rope allows linking pitches and the climb may accomplished in 2 long leads.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 15, 2011

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Comments: My description includes linking pitches by using a 60 meter rope. In "the old days" it was a 3-4 pitch climb!


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averae and Nuvolau : Lastoni Di Formin - North W... (5.9+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 11, 2011

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Comments: This route is described in some detail, along with a topo, in "Classic Dolomite Climbs," by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel. It's listed as Route # 47.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Southeast Arete Via Alvera... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 7, 2011

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Comments: After doing a little more research, I found that this climb (misnamed) is listed in the Classic Dolomite Climbs guidebook by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel as Route # 41. Their grade confirms the harder grade of V+, which converts to YDS grade of 5.7/5.8. The concensus here is 5.7+ which seems to be right on the mark.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Left Roof (5.7 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: After finding my original copy of the Erickson guide, this was rated 5.8 by the FA party.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : A's Jax (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: This climb starts on the first pitch of "South," a climb not yet listed here and one I've done 4 times. This start is in a very distinct, right-facing dihedral just 20 feet left of the "Bitty Buttress" route and is 5.7; it protects well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Mirage (aka Right Crack) (5.10b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011

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Comments: The correct name for this climb is: Mirage, 5.9 according to the old Erickson guide. FA: Dan Hare and Allen Bradley, in 1979. I rated it as a 5.9+ when I climbed it back in the mid 1980s. I didn't think it was a 10 then....


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower : Kasnakoff (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: This was a pretty popular route, even in 1964 when I climbed it.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Crack N' Up (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: The original Vogel guidbook (lavender one) called this Crack 'n' Up, as does the Bartlett guide. The rock is a bit crumbly and I gave this a 5.5 due to some of the holds crunching off...

This is a decent climb in order to set a top rope for "Stegasaurus."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stinger (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011

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Comments: This is the correct route name. It's erroniously identified as "Stegosaurus," in a separate listing.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: This route is listed in Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs," as Route 77. The UIAA Grade assigned: Grade V+.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : "Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: Additional information regarding the two major routes is available in "Classic Dolomite Climbs," Anette Koehler/Norbert Memmel. The "Spigolo Fiames" is an UIAA Gr. V, and the somewhat easier but still classic, "Via Commune," is a UIAA Gr. IV.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011

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Comments: The crux pitch follow this one, and turns the triangular roof at it's right edge onto the East face with the notorious wide crack.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: The major foreground tower is actually Torre Romana, and the N.W. Corner route follows the diedre formed at the juncture with Torre Barancio, the largest of the three towers collectively known as Torre Secondo.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: This route is incorrectly attributed to Dibona, et. al., and was actually the work of the Scoiattoli di Cortina in 1944. (Scoiattoli = squirrels, the name of the Cortina Guides). My information is from a copy of the CAI guidebook by Berti. In that work, it's also listed under Torre Romana, the tower lying west from Torre Barancio.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: The right-most of the 3 towers is Torre Romana.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Southeast Arete Via Alvera... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011

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Comments: The Antonio Berti guide published by Club Alpino Italiano gives the route a Grade V rating; this translates to ~5.6-5.7. My experience on the route leans towards a higher rating. This is nice climb, and takes 3-4 hours to complete the route. The descent is fairly easy. This is a distinct step up in difficulty from many of the easier climbs in the Cinque Torre, such as the Torre Barancio North Face.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 20, 2011

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Comments: This was my first-ever climb in the Dolomites in 1963. The Spigolo del Velo is also known as "die Schleierkante" in German. Translated, this is the "edge of the wedding veil." Herman Buhl made the climb famous by his reference as "the heavenly ladder made by God for the climber" comment in Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage. Other authors have stated that the climb is the most beautiful rock climb in the Eastern Alps. Take it from me: they weren't lying about it!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Drunken Cowboy (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: I've also heard this route called "Drunken Cowboy."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Pluton Playground (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 25, 2011

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Comments: This climb is left from both Dykes on Harleys and Loafers, and appears to start at the same point as "Dykes." has some decent moves, but is one of my least-favorite routes in the City. I'd probably be willing to repeat it sometime, but not soon.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Pure Pleasure (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 23, 2011

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Comments: This is mostly a face climb on positive holds; the crack provides excellent pro possibilities. Outstanding climb! One of the best 5.6 routes I've ever done.


Location: WY : Laramie Range : Little Bear Gulch 28 Routes...
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 18, 2011

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Comments: The exit from I-25 is Exit 140. Initially follow the signs for Wyo 94 and signs "to Esterbrook." The road to turn off is locally known as "Chalk Buttes Road."


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Gunga Din (5.11a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 10, 2011

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Comments: My recollection is the first ascent was Paul Piana ~1984 or 1985.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : Topropes (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 3, 2011

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Comments: General point of information: there are two separate double bolt+chain anchors for access to different lines. The Northernmost of these anchors (climber's left) provides the easier lines than the other anchor. Access these anchors by an easy 3rd class scramble from the East, beginning near campsite 21.


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