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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
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Areas = 15
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All 1821 | Routes 64 | Areas 46 | Photos 796 | Page Improvments | Comments 408 | Posts 7 | Stars 291 | Ratings 209
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Guppie Wall : Fairies Wear Boots (5.10a R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: My above comment pertains to Pokin' the Pup, which is the climb we did now that there's a description of that route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Guppie Wall : Pokin' the Pup (5.10a R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 24, 2012

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Comments: This is an easily-rigged top rope. The rock is a bit crumbly in a few places; I had an edge or 2 "crunch" off. Pretty nice little climb, but not worth a fall here.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Commitment (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: As a follow up comment to my earlier post: this is probably the best of the harder climbs in the 5 Open Books area, with Munginella being the most "fun."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : The Surprise (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: I've done the Surprise both ways, the "old way" and the "direct." Do the direct, since it's really an outstanding crack climb at 5.10a. The first belay in an ant tree is "forgettable."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Five Open Books : Munginella (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: Just be careful after topping out and try not to dislodge rocks on others below. The ledge is dirty and very loose. Still one of my favorites after many years. Some really good but easy climbing!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Stately Pleasure Dome : Great White Book (5.6 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 29, 2012

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Comments: The first ascent of this route was done considerably earlier by Hope Meek and Jim Baldwin; probably around 1964-1965.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Crystal Freeway
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 25, 2012

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Comments: As an historical note: The original climb on this face was named the "Crystal Freeway" by Bob Stevenson in 1968. The name has subsequently been applied to the entire face, and not his original route. The first known line was an unprotected "5.7." It was very "old school" 5.7, and protection was entirely lacking. I remember doing it in Spring, 1969.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : E.O. Lieback (5.5) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 9, 2012

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Comments: In this photo, Easy Lieback (5.5) is the right-most corner; the farthest to the left is the TM Chimney, and the shallow dihedral is 5.11 Crack (5.9+). Cold Finger (5.7,and singular case, please!) ascends the rounded arete on the extreme right. Easy Friction (5.5) lies midway between Easy Lieback and Cold Finger.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 7, 2012

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Comments: The East Face of Window Rock is very popular with large groups, beginners, and groups with children! Even though there are numerous routes at the 5.6-5.7 grade, only one set of anchors is available for descent. A single 60 meter rope will suffice for an abseil.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Pure Pleasure (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 6, 2012

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Comments: Did this again on the 4th of July. The length of the climb is almost exactly 100 feet, or half of a 60 meter rope. Always fun.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: This is a "full value" 5.6! Not any harder, but is a great warmup and also an excellent technique builder for novice climbers. I enjoyed it.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Juniper Jam (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 28, 2012

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Comments: This climb is solid at the grade, but the description above isn't that accurate. There are lots of features available for use, especially on the edges of the crack. I believe I only used 2-3 hand jams, and a couple lieback moves. Otherwise it was a jug haul. Good climb, but not great. Descend by rappel, using the bolts atop Drunken Cowboy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso Direct Start (5.8+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: This is the ONLY way I've ever done Calypso, and although I've rated it as a PG-13, it's more of just an ankle breaker than anything else, should one slip here.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Shirt Tail Peak : Tiger Balm Arete (5.11b R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 27, 2012

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Comments: Just to keep the record straight here---the first ascent of the line was by Bob Culp and George Hurley in 1965. I don't know the details re: amount of aid used, but knowing those two as I do, there probably wasn't much at all. This was done shortly after the first ascent of Gambit.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Do (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: The FA was indeed by Chris Fredericks, but it was Summer, 1965.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Camp 4 Wall : Doggie Deviations (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Mar 13, 2012

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Comments: My GF and I made an attempt on this back in 1982. She led the thin flake portion nicely, and the pro was reasonable using some small wired stoppers and quick-draws. I continued on up a slick lieback above and took a short whipper. She insisted that we go down at that point, since she got jarred catching me. But to answer the implied question, re: protection of the thin flake, it was adequate--probably as good as the flake itself.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Rotwand : Rotwand Route (5.7 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: Previous poster's comment re: Poison Ivy is SPOT ON THE MARK! But this is only ONE of the objective hazards involving this route. The lower portion is quite junky and loose; even though there are cracks available for some "pro" they are associated with loose junk. The second pitch however, is fairly enjoyable and reasonably solid.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Great Zot (5.8+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: This climb seems to be suffering from "grade inflation!" It was considered "definition 5.7" when first put up and for quite a few years thereafter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 25, 2012

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Comments: As an historical note: the FFA was done by Larry Dalke, ~1965.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Drunken Cowboy (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 22, 2012

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Comments: This route is not mentioned in the 7th edition of the Bingham guidebook. It is the next crack directly right from Pure Pleasure. The start may be reached by a short scramble, and avoids the slightly runout start of the 2 preceding routes. The pro possibilities are excellent all the way!


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Trying to categorize the Dolomites as "a Mountain Range" isn't really accurate, as there is a wide variety of rock type and quality from Group to Group. The one very uniform characteristic...steep climbing! Many of the routes condsidered "just average" by the locals would warrant four stars elsewhere. It's one of my all time favorite places to climb...or simply visit.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 13, 2012

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Comments: Even though the route tends to wander around, the primary reason for many short leads is that this is a favorite with guides taking beginners up a "real climb." The famous "guides belay" allows beginners to fall "up."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Historical comment on this route. I believe this was done earlier than 1967. My recollection in talking with Layton in ~1966 was that this route was done as a free climb, and he had rated it as "really hard 5.9+."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Uplift (5.10d X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Just as an historical note: this climb was originally done as an A3 route in 1965 by Pat Ament, myself, and Janice Baker. The first FREE ascent was probably done by Duncan Ferguson as the original poster suggests. The aid on this route was very tricky, and I doubt that any single piece placed would have held any kind of fall. It was very serious as an aid route, and I would venture even more so as a free climb. That said, this route probably doesn't warrant the risks involved....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 2, 2012

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Comments: Perhaps I was a bit jaded in my earlier comments, since I'd already made one descent from the Great Zot that same day. One's opinion can be influenced by being hot, tired, and thirsty. Rebuffat's Ridge is a worthy thing to climb.... However, the very loose rock on the next pitch is not especially enjoyable, so yes I still recommend just climbing the very excellent dihedral pitch. I avoid loose rock whenever possible, but if you love loose crap...go climb on the Rotwand. I've done that, too....


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