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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 5 hours ago
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Point Rank: # 54
Total Points: 6,433
Last Year: 2,629
Last 30 Days: 715
64 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 1991 | Routes 68 | Areas 48 | Photos 916 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 438 | Posts 8 | Stars 297 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: When we did this climb in 1966, we speculated that it wasn't going to be too long before it was climbed entirely free. The big changes came with the advent of better shoes and use of passive hardware (nuts) instead of pitons for protection. We were trying a "as free as we can" ascent at the time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: The FFA was done by John Thomas (physics student at UW in Laramie.), sometime around 1962-63. I was still in the Army when it was done. When I climbed it ~ 1966, it still had an awesome reputation for being the ultimate "hard man" climb in Eldorado Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Bob Culp and I did this climb in early November of 1966. We used no more than 4-5 points of aid at the time and were placing/pulling pitons. We really didn't have any concept of how hard it was and simply were still calling everything this difficult "hard 5.9." See my photos recently added! Not too shabby in Kronhofer Keltterschue and using a Columbian rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Sigh! Sob! I recently visited Flagstaff after having been away for many (nearly 25!) years. The place has been "loved to death!" The ground level for almost all the boulders has eroded away by 12"-20" for some. I simply left in disgust without putting on my shoes. I was fortunate enough to be climbing there while it was still pretty "virgin." i.e. I started bouldering on Flagstaff in 1959!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Capstan : West Face [The Capstan] (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: I'll agree that this is "too high for me without a rope!" The rating of 10a seems about right.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : Torre Seconda (Second Tower...
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: This "area" was added for sake of accuracy in describing the entire area or in German, "Gebeit."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Diagnostics (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: I'll add that a Bouldering Pad is part of the "rack for this climb! I've sure seen a lot of climbers do butt-plants on this one! (Myself included!)


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2013

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Comments: The tower immediately adjacent to Torre Grsnde is Torre Seconda, comprised of Torre Lusy (nearest camera), Torre Barancio, and Torre Romana. The small tower furthest to the R. is Torre Inglese.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Testa del Bartoldo (Dimai D... (5.8- PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 13, 2013

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Comments: I did this climb in July 1964 as a training climb for longer and harder Dolomite climbing. The lower part of the route is rather unexceptional and is usually avoided by the locals by traversing onto the route by means of "Second Ledge." The "roof pitch" is the sole reason for doing the climb, other than physical conditioning for longer and sustained routes. If I can find my shots of the roof being surmounted I'll post them later! My PG 13 rating is based on rock quality, since there's a lot of f... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 12, 2013

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Comments: Great picture! The Tissi route follows a line almost identical with the top of the pine tree.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: This photo was taken the evening after my ascent of the Scarf Arete earlier in the day.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: I just came across my old German Guidebook:
Dolomiten-Kletterfuehrer II, Dr. Guenther Langes;
the guidebook description : "Eine der elegantesten und reizvollsten Kletterein in den Dolomiten. Im oberen Teil sehr ausgesezt." Translation: One of the most elegant and rewarding rock climbs in the Dolomites. In the upper portion, very exposed.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : ... : Torre Venezia
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: I hiked in to the Vazzoler hut in late Summer, and found it was closed at that time. The trail in wasn't too challenging for carrying a moderate pack. I took a secondary path back to my car through the thinly wooded terrain and was amazed at the large number of "little brown snakes," which I later learned were European Common Adders (vipera berus)! I carefully avoided them, having noticed the characteristic triangular heads somewhat reminiscent of Copperheads. So...be advised! These sna... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : ... : Torre Venezia
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

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Comments: The best English language source of information for climbs on Torre Venezia is the now-out-of-print classic, Classic Dolomite Climbs, Annette Kohler, and Norbert Memel. The Tissi South Face is included as climb number 74, and the Andrich-Fae SW Arete is climb number 73. Much of my information is somewhat dated, and was based on an old German language guide that I used while touring the Dolomites many years ago.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct... (5.10a/b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 24, 2013

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Comments: I'm not very clear as to who did the first truly "free" ascent of this climb; it was probably sometime in the 1970's however. I was climbing in light Marwa-soled kletter boots (same sole as Kronhofer Kletterschue), but my companion had clunky mountain boots and a great supply of etriers. I was able to eliminate a few aid moves simply by being able to friction on some sloped holds where the boots just didn't have purchase. Still, the first 2 pitches of Via Miriam were free climbed at 5.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: BITD (1960s) the Matron was frequently visited by rock schools for graduation climbs. The East Ridge for the gumbies, and for the more talented, North Face. I myself once led a 24 climber conga-line up (UCHC) the East Ridge. After finishing the route, I also did the South Face and still was able to watch climbers still starting!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: My favorite formation in the North Flatirons! I particularly recommend both Butterfly and East Face Direct. Both are runnout and exposed, but a competent leader should have lots of fun here!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : First Pinnacle SE Face (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 15, 2012

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Comments: Looking back over the years, this may have been my first roped climb! That was April,1959!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 10, 2012

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Comments: I'm generally against chopping anchors. In this case, it seems that primarily Colorado climbers want to have the anchor removed. This is a Vedauwoo route, not Eldo. I'm certain if it were chopped (defacing the rock!) that it would be replaced by the Laramie/Fort Collins locals almost immediately. Don't like it? Climb somewhere/something else that doesn't offend your sensibilities.
P.S. I've been climbing in Vedauwoo a LONG time (since 1968).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Lena's Lieback (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 4, 2012

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Comments: The last 2 pitches are not very enjoyable, and I recommend the 5.5 exit right, after pitch one. I've done it both ways.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: Going all the way up to the Pantry might not be wise at this point; the early 2012 rockfall has done some damage to the big ledge and the anchors for rappell might have sustained damage.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Gully (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: The easiest descent line is at the intersection of the whole buttress formation with the upper wall, and descend EAST!! Brushy with manzanita bushes, but pretty secure in the corner.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Cow-Center Route (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2012

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Comments: The old green Roper guide rates this route at 5.5, but the bay bush has grown considerably in the intervening years. It makes it more difficult than before! I originally climbed this route in 1982, and repeated just 2 days ago. Still, it's a worthwhile climb. I'd suggest addition of a double ASCA bolt anchor atop the first pitch to enable retreats without leaving any gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Hanging Flake (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 1, 2012

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Comments: A very fun but all too short pitch; seemed very slippery and insecure due to lots of traffic that's polished the rock. I called it a 5.7, since it's significantly tougher than the Swan Slab Gully just "next door."


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 31, 2012

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Comments: As originally done, there were only 4 bolts on the slab. It was a bit run out to the first one...maybe 15 feet.


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