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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
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Point Rank: # 53
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2062 | Routes 71 | Areas 51 | Photos 959 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 458 | Posts 8 | Stars 300 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: To the PO: this has ALWAYS been a little slick! It's a water runnel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Nice climb that's well worth the approach hike. Seemed easy for the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: I believe the "R" rating pertains mostly to the first pitch, and I would be more inclined to call it PG-13. The risk factor is more evident to the second, following the first pitch, especially if it's regarded as a "date climb" for an inexperienced GF. I've had several young females get real freaked out by the rapidly found exposure.

That said, this is probably one of the few "easy" routes in Eldorado that could be called a "classic."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : E.L.100 (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: Re degree of difficulty: I'd agree with Crusher that the 5.7 rating is a sandbag. I felt a real forearm pump on this one and was very happy finding a great hand jam that allowed my forearms to deflate a bit. Realistically graded by "modern standards" as a 5.8, or even 5.8+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

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Comments: I now recall the 1966 ascent that Bob Culp and I made as being one of the outstanding climbs of my career as an alpinist. The 4th pitch was made using exactly 1 point of aid, since there was a pre-existing piton placed in the niche where a toe hold could have been used otherwise! I recall yelling up to Bob that I thought we could have free climbed this entire pitch had that piton not interfered. Every other move on that lead was done entirely free by rigorous no falls standards in Kronhofer Klet... more >>


Location: Rodger Raubach : Dolomite landscapes and sce... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 7, 2013

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Comments: Tre Sorelle are home to several "extremes" done by Emilio Comici, and also by Riccardo Cassin.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Right ... (5.1)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: As originally climbed, this route was done in 4 pitches. Even today, this would minimize rockfall from rope management issues. Bring a helmet if you value your noggin!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Tree (5.10b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2013

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Comments: The first ascender was Mike Jefferson, not Mark!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Chimney (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 3, 2013

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Comments: The Location needs a slight correction to be "just left of Oak Tree Flake," and not "hanging Flake."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stegasaurus (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 25, 2013

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Comments: Donno- You are correct, and the new photo shows the rock well. There were no bolts when I did the route years ago.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: After looking at some of my older pictures and reading some of the other comments here, I'd suggest a provisional PG-13 rating for the first pitch. The North Face, although somewhat more difficult, is very well-protected from the start. A leader fall on this climb's first pitch probably wouldn't be fatal but would result in more than a wounded ego.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: Rodger being belayed by Brian Underhill, and Alan Carlson on the ridge above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: To keep everybody (myself included) happy, why don't we simply call the route "Stichter Quit Before He Got the Anchor in Place?"

I'd more seriously suggest the substructure be called the "Black Tide Dike," and keep the present name as a route thereon.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

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Comments: If the Camin del Frasto is running with water, an alternative line may be climbed to the left at 5.7+/5.8-.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : South Face, "Via Commune." (5.6 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 20, 2013

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Comments: This route is listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler/ Norbert Memel, Baton-Wicks London, (1998).
The Via Commune is route #50, and a good topo is included therein. My description above is from my first-hand experience on the first 4 pitches before traversing over to the "spigolo." Maurizio de Zanna gave me a rudimentary topo and some beta at the time. Said it was very unprotected, but the climbing was fairly easy and straightforward. As a general rule, t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: Bought the lid in Germany in 1964 for climbing in the Dolomites.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Entrance Crack (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I did this climb on the day before Christmas, 1986. I didn't have a guidebook other than "Dixie Crystals," and I sure didn't have a #6 Camalot (they didn't exist then!). In fact, I don't even remember placing any pro after the tree. I thought it was mentally more difficult than anything on the Great Arch Route that my GF and I did subsequently.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: I have always used a wired stopper slotted behind the flake, and it's less likely to damage it should a fall occur. I'd say this is a PG13 move up to the first bolt; not really a death fall possible at the start, but a great leg or ankle breaker.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall : ... : Gotcha Bush (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

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Comments: This route has been "loved to death," because the ground level has gotten lower over the years. The naming feature, the "Gotcha Bush," is nowhere to be seen. The start is more difficult now than in the 1980's. Still, an Indian Cove favorite of mine.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Englishman's Route (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: After reading all these route descriptions, it's apparent that Bob LaGrange and I climbed something of an "integrale" of the Love route and the Englishman's Route. There was nothing that we considered 5.9, but there was some what we thought was maybe 5.7. BITD, we weren't that sure of the YDS Grading system, hence everything was under-graded and is now considered "sandbagged."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: When we did this climb in 1966, we speculated that it wasn't going to be too long before it was climbed entirely free. The big changes came with the advent of better shoes and use of passive hardware (nuts) instead of pitons for protection. We were trying a "as free as we can" ascent at the time.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Grand Giraffe (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: The FFA was done by John Thomas (physics student at UW in Laramie.), sometime around 1962-63. I was still in the Army when it was done. When I climbed it ~ 1966, it still had an awesome reputation for being the ultimate "hard man" climb in Eldorado Canyon.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 18, 2013

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Comments: Bob Culp and I did this climb in early November of 1966. We used no more than 4-5 points of aid at the time and were placing/pulling pitons. We really didn't have any concept of how hard it was and simply were still calling everything this difficult "hard 5.9." See my photos recently added! Not too shabby in Kronhofer Keltterschue and using a Columbian rope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Sigh! Sob! I recently visited Flagstaff after having been away for many (nearly 25!) years. The place has been "loved to death!" The ground level for almost all the boulders has eroded away by 12"-20" for some. I simply left in disgust without putting on my shoes. I was fortunate enough to be climbing there while it was still pretty "virgin." i.e. I started bouldering on Flagstaff in 1959!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Capstan : West Face [The Capstan] (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: I'll agree that this is "too high for me without a rope!" The rating of 10a seems about right.


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