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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Indian Chief Rock : Flake Route (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my introduction to City of Rocks climbing, and it does not disappoint. It protects well with a standard rack and some 2' long runners to cut down on rope drag.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Gully (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 21, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The first pitch is a little tricky, but the upper pitches are relatively straightforward and enjoyable. The walk off is a bit grungy. Standard rack.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Sex Favor (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After grading this route here, I read the comments. This is Miss Conception, and NOT Sex Favor. It's towards the road from Elusive Wapiti and starts off of a big flake?
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Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Squat Rock : Miss Conception (5.9+ R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My GF and I climbed this at the end of the day after I led Elusive Wapiti and toproped Higher Education. Anne wanted to lead a climb, so we did this one. We had a decent rack of stoppers, quickdraws, runners, and a couple friends, so there was no problem with protection. We stopped on Elusive Wapiti's first belay ledge and bummed a ride on another party's rope setup to the ground. Not a bomb but not nearly as nice as Elusive Wapiti or Higher Education. Too bad Squat Rock is now closed. This repo... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Dome : Topographical Oceans (5.10b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading an administrator's comment that "it felt harder than 10b," I'd be inclined to agree. The original grade in "Brown Book of Lies," was 5.11. The start is shared by "Dire Straits," and was also rated 5.10- rather than 5.9+. I'd consider a 5.10a for pitch one to be reasonable, especially for shorter climbers . The final slab: maybe 10 c/d. Not an 11, though.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Left S... (5.2)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route follows the obvious dihedral, and finishes in a decent chimney at the top. I rated this as "5.4" in agreement with the Super Topo grade on the Right Side route, as both are about the same difficulty. The Left Side is only a tad more difficult, and is less frequently climbed.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo : Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete (5.9 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a very nice climb for the most part, but as most infrequently climbed Dolomite routes, loose rock and some rockfall is an ever-present hazard. Not as popular as the nearby "Biggies," but still a worthwhile undertaking.
Be advised that things could have changed over the intervening years, since my ascent was in 1964!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Deville Rocks : Deville 3 : Deville 3 (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This makes a nice early season climb, especially before the Cheley Camp opens for the season. This is definitely an "old school" rock climb. Even though it isn't "R" rated, care must be taken to use the protection when available. Registration at the Camp is necessary to maintain good relations and ensure continued access.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Belle Campground Area : Belle Campground : Castle Rock : ... : Diagnostics (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 1, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After reading some of the other posts here, I conclude that the start must really be the crux for a shorter climber. I'm 5'10" and it was a bit of a stretch for me...my GF had some real problems starting, but she was only 5'0". I took a look at this on the way out, going home a couple weeks ago, and it certainly is an intimidating-looking route for "only" 5.6!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Woods Quarry : Diatribe (5.10 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: An additional note on this area: watch for rattlesnakes! I've seen a prairie rattler in the rocks near the base.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Woods Quarry : Diatribe (5.10 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A climb worth the hike up to the quarry. Good technique builder. I did this one in old Kronhofer Kletterschues. Seemed pretty thin, BITD!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Woods Quarry : The Middle Way (5.10 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've never seen this led; normally toproped. This is a fun practice climb either after school or work. One of the few places along the Mesa Trail that I've seen a rattlesnake, too.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : East Face (Standard) (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've done this route a whole bunch...and I rate the final pitch as 5.5 based on the route finding. The easiest line is probably 5.4, but not everyone finds the easiest line.
That being said, I've taken lots of nOObs up this during the old CMC/RMRG Rock Schools of the 1960s.
It's a climb that most people will NEVER FORGET! Most "stars" in the universe.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Direct Route (5.6 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Leo-
BITD, i.e. the early 1960s this was considered a major climb! We were all using 7/16" x 150' ropes (Columbian or Goldline!), and it was a 12 pitch climb. We really had to "run it out" to make it to belay ledges and stances.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron : Butterfly (5.6 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Typical of Flatiron climbs: i.e. runout and not much protection available. On the other hand, there are good belay ledges and stances. Overall, an exciting excursion on a beautiful formation.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : First Pinnacle SE Face (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very worthwhile climb for a n00b. Definitely gives a beginner a taste of exposure.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : East Bench Dihedral (5.2)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A great first climb with a beginner; continue to the top of the First Pinnacle (5.3) and do the overhanging rappel down the south face for a fun excursion. This is what I did learning how to rappel in 1959!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great place to take a beginner for an intro to some bouldering and a great "date climb" spot, too.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Nook's Rock : South Face (V0)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rock is named after Layton "Nook" Kor. This is a great place to boulder in the summertime and in the morning of hot days.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Pratt's Mantle (V2+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bob Culp finally accomplished this route in the Spring of 1961.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Pratt's Rock aka Pratt's Ov... : Pratt's Overhang (V3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I recall being shown this problem by Kenny Parker in 1959. I finally was able to do it in 1965 after a stint in the Army (1961-1964). Imagine: doing this in Kronhofers! This was truly a Bob Culp special, as he did the actual first ascent shortly after I was shown the problem.
I really don't know how Chuck Pratt's name became attached to this rock, 'cause the first time he came to Boulder was in the Fall of 1964 or the Spring of 1965. It may be from his first ascent of the mantle problem in Spri... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : One Arms rocks : Right Hand Mantle (V2)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are lots of small variations to doing this face. This was the first of the harder boulders (harder than V1) I was able to climb back in the 1960s. Still a fun problem!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Tree Slab : Classic Line (V0 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great intro to bouldering for the neophyte. For rank beginners, a toprope is advised. I used it several times for teaching a rock school class the principles of balance climbing. I also demonstrated that it's entirely a footwork problem by climbing it one-handed. One day with rockschoolers, I did the route over 20 times, telling the students that the rock demanded to be climbed and if they were unable to do it, I had to climb it for them.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : The Capstan : South Crack (V2 X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I first did this back in the 1960s and mostly done then as a toprope problem in Kronhofer klettershchues. I did it again in the 1980s with new sticky rubber La Sportivas, and it seemed a lot easier. I'd give it a V2/V3 rating. Not all that hard, as Flagstaff boulder problems go....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flagstaff : Cookie Jar : Cookie Jar Crack (V-easy R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first-ever introduction to roped climbing 1959! I thought it was positively the hardest thing imaginable, 'cause I had no idea what I was doing. Once the neophyte learns that the feet are important and how to stem a rest or 2, it becomes a reasonable climb. I even took my 10 year old son there, some 26 years later, and coached him up the thing on his first attempt.
Overall, a terrific place for teaching some crack techniques.
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