Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 3 days ago
Contact Rodger Raubach


Point Rank: # 58
Total Points: 5,721
Last Year: 3,952
Last 30 Days: 6
57 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All (1818) | Routes (64) | Areas (46) | Photos (796) | Comments (406) | Posts (6) | Stars (291) | Ratings (209)
Page 5 of 17.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The tower immediately adjacent to Torre Grsnde is Torre Seconda, comprised of Torre Lusy (nearest camera), Torre Barancio, and Torre Romana. The small tower furthest to the R. is Torre Inglese.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Testa del Bartoldo (Dimai D... (5.8- PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 13, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I did this climb in July 1964 as a training climb for longer and harder Dolomite climbing. The lower part of the route is rather unexceptional and is usually avoided by the locals by traversing onto the route by means of "Second Ledge." The "roof pitch" is the sole reason for doing the climb, other than physical conditioning for longer and sustained routes. If I can find my shots of the roof being surmounted I'll post them later! My PG 13 rating is based on rock quality, since there's a lot of f... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 12, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great picture! The Tissi route follows a line almost identical with the top of the pine tree.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This photo was taken the evening after my ascent of the Scarf Arete earlier in the day.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I just came across my old German Guidebook:
Dolomiten-Kletterfuehrer II, Dr. Guenther Langes;
the guidebook description : "Eine der elegantesten und reizvollsten Kletterein in den Dolomiten. Im oberen Teil sehr ausgesezt." Translation: One of the most elegant and rewarding rock climbs in the Dolomites. In the upper portion, very exposed.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : ... : Torre Venezia
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I hiked in to the Vazzoler hut in late Summer, and found it was closed at that time. The trail in wasn't too challenging for carrying a moderate pack. I took a secondary path back to my car through the thinly wooded terrain and was amazed at the large number of "little brown snakes," which I later learned were European Common Adders (vipera berus)! I carefully avoided them, having noticed the characteristic triangular heads somewhat reminiscent of Copperheads. So...be advised! These sna... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Civetta Group : ... : Torre Venezia
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 10, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The best English language source of information for climbs on Torre Venezia is the now-out-of-print classic, Classic Dolomite Climbs, Annette Kohler, and Norbert Memel. The Tissi South Face is included as climb number 74, and the Andrich-Fae SW Arete is climb number 73. Much of my information is somewhat dated, and was based on an old German language guide that I used while touring the Dolomites many years ago.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Diretta Dimai (Dimai Direct... (5.10a/b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Feb 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I'm not very clear as to who did the first truly "free" ascent of this climb; it was probably sometime in the 1970's however. I was climbing in light Marwa-soled kletter boots (same sole as Kronhofer Kletterschue), but my companion had clunky mountain boots and a great supply of etriers. I was able to eliminate a few aid moves simply by being able to friction on some sloped holds where the boots just didn't have purchase. Still, the first 2 pitches of Via Miriam were free climbed at 5.... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: BITD (1960s) the Matron was frequently visited by rock schools for graduation climbs. The East Ridge for the gumbies, and for the more talented, North Face. I myself once led a 24 climber conga-line up (UCHC) the East Ridge. After finishing the route, I also did the South Face and still was able to watch climbers still starting!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : First Flatiron
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: My favorite formation in the North Flatirons! I particularly recommend both Butterfly and East Face Direct. Both are runnout and exposed, but a competent leader should have lots of fun here!


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : First Pinnacle SE Face (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 15, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Looking back over the years, this may have been my first roped climb! That was April,1959!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Friday the 13th (5.11+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 10, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I'm generally against chopping anchors. In this case, it seems that primarily Colorado climbers want to have the anchor removed. This is a Vedauwoo route, not Eldo. I'm certain if it were chopped (defacing the rock!) that it would be replaced by the Laramie/Fort Collins locals almost immediately. Don't like it? Climb somewhere/something else that doesn't offend your sensibilities.
P.S. I've been climbing in Vedauwoo a LONG time (since 1968).


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Lena's Lieback (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The last 2 pitches are not very enjoyable, and I recommend the 5.5 exit right, after pitch one. I've done it both ways.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Going all the way up to the Pantry might not be wise at this point; the early 2012 rockfall has done some damage to the big ledge and the anchors for rappell might have sustained damage.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Gully (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The easiest descent line is at the intersection of the whole buttress formation with the upper wall, and descend EAST!! Brushy with manzanita bushes, but pretty secure in the corner.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Cow-Center Route (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: The old green Roper guide rates this route at 5.5, but the bay bush has grown considerably in the intervening years. It makes it more difficult than before! I originally climbed this route in 1982, and repeated just 2 days ago. Still, it's a worthwhile climb. I'd suggest addition of a double ASCA bolt anchor atop the first pitch to enable retreats without leaving any gear.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Hanging Flake (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 1, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A very fun but all too short pitch; seemed very slippery and insecure due to lots of traffic that's polished the rock. I called it a 5.7, since it's significantly tougher than the Swan Slab Gully just "next door."


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 31, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: As originally done, there were only 4 bolts on the slab. It was a bit run out to the first one...maybe 15 feet.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Water Streak (aka Friday's ... (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: I'm adding this comment to clarify what I viewed as a confused situation with "In the Out Door," and "formerly Water Streak II." Above, I've described the original Water Streak route as it was described to me back in the early 1970s by Jeb Schenk. I finally got around to doing the route twice when I again visited Laramie in the mid 1980s, by which time it was an accepted route. My wife led the route in July, 1986, and later that day, Layne Kopischka was up drilling the 4th bolt for the "Kopischk... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Short Wall
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: On my (all too infrequent) trips to Joshua Tree, this area is invariably the first stop, snd is a great place to "work out the kinks" after a long drive.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Valley Massif : Bill Steal (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 30, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This route has a tendency to get vegetated up in the Spring. Other than dealing with the veggies, a nice route.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Cold Finger (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Does anyone else that's posting here remember the infamous "beat-on" placed by Clarence Serfoss to protect the initial step up onto the slab? It was there when I first climbed the route in 1968, and it was still there 4 years later. I'd be interested to know what ever became of it.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : In Through The Out Door (fo... (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 27, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Something here needs "official" clarification by an administrator! When I originally climbed what I knew as Water Streak, not Water Streak II, it was an "old school" 5.9+ and the Kopischka finish at "old school" 5.10a. These days, after many ascents wearing on the holds, the 5.10a/b rating would seem to be accurate for Water Streak.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Guppie Wall : Fairies Wear Boots (5.10a R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: My above comment pertains to Pokin' the Pup, which is the climb we did now that there's a description of that route.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Guppie Wall : Pokin' the Pup (5.10a R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 24, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: This is an easily-rigged top rope. The rock is a bit crumbly in a few places; I had an edge or 2 "crunch" off. Pretty nice little climb, but not worth a fall here.


Page 5 of 17.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>