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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Mirage (aka Right Crack) (5.10b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The correct name for this climb is: Mirage, 5.9 according to the old Erickson guide. FA: Dan Hare and Allen Bradley, in 1979. I rated it as a 5.9+ when I climbed it back in the mid 1980s. I didn't think it was a 10 then....
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower : Kasnakoff (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a pretty popular route, even in 1964 when I climbed it.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Crack N' Up (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original Vogel guidbook (lavender one) called this Crack 'n' Up, as does the Bartlett guide. The rock is a bit crumbly and I gave this a 5.5 due to some of the holds crunching off...
This is a decent climb in order to set a top rope for "Stegasaurus."
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stinger (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the correct route name. It's erroniously identified as "Stegosaurus," in a separate listing.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is listed in Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs," as Route 77. The UIAA Grade assigned: Grade V+.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : "Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Additional information regarding the two major routes is available in "Classic Dolomite Climbs," Anette Koehler/Norbert Memmel. The "Spigolo Fiames" is an UIAA Gr. V, and the somewhat easier but still classic, "Via Commune," is a UIAA Gr. IV.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux pitch follow this one, and turns the triangular roof at it's right edge onto the East face with the notorious wide crack.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The major foreground tower is actually Torre Romana, and the N.W. Corner route follows the diedre formed at the juncture with Torre Barancio, the largest of the three towers collectively known as Torre Secondo.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is incorrectly attributed to Dibona, et. al., and was actually the work of the Scoiattoli di Cortina in 1944. (Scoiattoli = squirrels, the name of the Cortina Guides). My information is from a copy of the CAI guidebook by Berti. In that work, it's also listed under Torre Romana, the tower lying west from Torre Barancio.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The right-most of the 3 towers is Torre Romana.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Southeast Arete Via Alvera... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Antonio Berti guide published by Club Alpino Italiano gives the route a Grade V rating; this translates to ~5.6-5.7. My experience on the route leans towards a higher rating. This is nice climb, and takes 3-4 hours to complete the route. The descent is fairly easy. This is a distinct step up in difficulty from many of the easier climbs in the Cinque Torre, such as the Torre Barancio North Face.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first-ever climb in the Dolomites in 1963. The Spigolo del Velo is also known as "die Schleierkante" in German. Translated, this is the "edge of the wedding veil." Herman Buhl made the climb famous by his reference as "the heavenly ladder made by God for the climber" comment in Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage. Other authors have stated that the climb is the most beautiful rock climb in the Eastern Alps. Take it from me: they weren't lying about it!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Drunken Cowboy (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've also heard this route called "Drunken Cowboy."
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Pluton Playground (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is left from both Dykes on Harleys and Loafers, and appears to start at the same point as "Dykes." has some decent moves, but is one of my least-favorite routes in the City. I'd probably be willing to repeat it sometime, but not soon.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Pure Pleasure (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is mostly a face climb on positive holds; the crack provides excellent pro possibilities. Outstanding climb! One of the best 5.6 routes I've ever done.
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Location: WY : Little Bear Gulch (now: Pub...
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The exit from I-25 is Exit 140. Initially follow the signs for Wyo 94 and signs "to Esterbrook." The road to turn off is locally known as "Chalk Buttes Road."
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Fall Wall : Gunga Din (5.11a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My recollection is the first ascent was Paul Piana ~1984 or 1985.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : Topropes (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: General point of information: there are two separate double bolt+chain anchors for access to different lines. The Northernmost of these anchors (climber's left) provides the easier lines than the other anchor. Access these anchors by an easy 3rd class scramble from the East, beginning near campsite 21.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : West Slabs (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are many different starts and lines to follow; most are above 5.6 in difficulty now that many of the holds have peeled off over the years. The center line is fairly typical and is realistically more like 5.8 than 5.6. The right edge, nearest Bobcat Crack, is close to the 5.6 level if the best combination of holds is found. A worthwhile slab for practice.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Gully (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed just the first pitch again after an interval of > 25 years. Seemed that the first 10 feet of the climb are still a bit of a grunt but then the stemming and crack climbing above are fun. Not a total grovel-fest as some have described it. Easily protected. My partner replaced the slings at the first tree on 9/25/2011.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Bobcat Crack (5.1)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very fun but too-short pitch. I can't say it's 5.1 or whatever, though. Many others around are saying maybe 5.4 since the traffic has polished the rock a lot lately. I like the name "Bobcat Crack" better than "Un-named gully" on Super Topo.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Aunt Fanny's Pantry (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I had never gone all the way up to the "Pantry" before this past trip to Yosemite. For a big-chested climber, the way to the top of the pinnacle on the outside is somewhatmore challenging than "5.4." Either that or a "grovelfest" through the tight squeeze.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Uncle Fanny (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: BITD when I climbed this route, I did something similar to Floyd Hayes and abandoned the chimbey for some pleasant crack and flake climbing to the right. It's much nicer that way! I was able to use entirely passive pro as well. The chimney is a real grunt.
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : Beginner Slab (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A very nice little slab for getting used to the fabulous friction of the City granite. Also great for stretching out the kinks after a long drive in to the Reserve. I thought it was pretty much a 5.3-5.4 slab with an angle reminiscent of Boulder's First Flatiron East Face.
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