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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Trying to categorize the Dolomites as "a Mountain Range" isn't really accurate, as there is a wide variety of rock type and quality from Group to Group. The one very uniform characteristic...steep climbing! Many of the routes condsidered "just average" by the locals would warrant four stars elsewhere. It's one of my all time favorite places to climb...or simply visit.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Even though the route tends to wander around, the primary reason for many short leads is that this is a favorite with guides taking beginners up a "real climb." The famous "guides belay" allows beginners to fall "up."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : King's X (5.10d)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Historical comment on this route. I believe this was done earlier than 1967. My recollection in talking with Layton in ~1966 was that this route was done as a free climb, and he had rated it as "really hard 5.9+."
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Uplift (5.10d X)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just as an historical note: this climb was originally done as an A3 route in 1965 by Pat Ament, myself, and Janice Baker. The first FREE ascent was probably done by Duncan Ferguson as the original poster suggests. The aid on this route was very tricky, and I doubt that any single piece placed would have held any kind of fall. It was very serious as an aid route, and I would venture even more so as a free climb. That said, this route probably doesn't warrant the risks involved....
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Perhaps I was a bit jaded in my earlier comments, since I'd already made one descent from the Great Zot that same day. One's opinion can be influenced by being hot, tired, and thirsty. Rebuffat's Ridge is a worthy thing to climb.... However, the very loose rock on the next pitch is not especially enjoyable, so yes I still recommend just climbing the very excellent dihedral pitch. I avoid loose rock whenever possible, but if you love loose crap...go climb on the Rotwand. I've done that, too....
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel guidebook "Classic Dolomite Climbs" gives this as 4 pitches. A 60 meter rope allows linking pitches and the climb may accomplished in 2 long leads.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: My description includes linking pitches by using a 60 meter rope. In "the old days" it was a 3-4 pitch climb!
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Averae and Nuvolau : Lastoni Di Formin - North W... (5.9+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is described in some detail, along with a topo, in "Classic Dolomite Climbs," by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel. It's listed as Route # 47.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Southeast Arete Via Alvera... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After doing a little more research, I found that this climb (misnamed) is listed in the Classic Dolomite Climbs guidebook by Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel as Route # 41. Their grade confirms the harder grade of V+, which converts to YDS grade of 5.7/5.8. The concensus here is 5.7+ which seems to be right on the mark.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : Left Roof (5.7 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: After finding my original copy of the Erickson guide, this was rated 5.8 by the FA party.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : A's Jax (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb starts on the first pitch of "South," a climb not yet listed here and one I've done 4 times. This start is in a very distinct, right-facing dihedral just 20 feet left of the "Bitty Buttress" route and is 5.7; it protects well.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Bitty Buttress : Mirage (aka Right Crack) (5.10b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 4, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The correct name for this climb is: Mirage, 5.9 according to the old Erickson guide. FA: Dan Hare and Allen Bradley, in 1979. I rated it as a 5.9+ when I climbed it back in the mid 1980s. I didn't think it was a 10 then....
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Second Sella Tower : Kasnakoff (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a pretty popular route, even in 1964 when I climbed it.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Crack N' Up (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The original Vogel guidbook (lavender one) called this Crack 'n' Up, as does the Bartlett guide. The rock is a bit crumbly and I gave this a 5.5 due to some of the holds crunching off...
This is a decent climb in order to set a top rope for "Stegasaurus."
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stinger (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the correct route name. It's erroniously identified as "Stegosaurus," in a separate listing.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is listed in Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs," as Route 77. The UIAA Grade assigned: Grade V+.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : "Spigolo Fiames," SE Arete (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel's book "Classic Dolomite Climbs" lists this as Route 51. There is a fairly good topo included.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : Punta Fiames
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Additional information regarding the two major routes is available in "Classic Dolomite Climbs," Anette Koehler/Norbert Memmel. The "Spigolo Fiames" is an UIAA Gr. V, and the somewhat easier but still classic, "Via Commune," is a UIAA Gr. IV.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux pitch follow this one, and turns the triangular roof at it's right edge onto the East face with the notorious wide crack.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The major foreground tower is actually Torre Romana, and the N.W. Corner route follows the diedre formed at the juncture with Torre Barancio, the largest of the three towers collectively known as Torre Secondo.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is incorrectly attributed to Dibona, et. al., and was actually the work of the Scoiattoli di Cortina in 1944. (Scoiattoli = squirrels, the name of the Cortina Guides). My information is from a copy of the CAI guidebook by Berti. In that work, it's also listed under Torre Romana, the tower lying west from Torre Barancio.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The right-most of the 3 towers is Torre Romana.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Southeast Arete Via Alvera... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Antonio Berti guide published by Club Alpino Italiano gives the route a Grade V rating; this translates to ~5.6-5.7. My experience on the route leans towards a higher rating. This is nice climb, and takes 3-4 hours to complete the route. The descent is fairly easy. This is a distinct step up in difficulty from many of the easier climbs in the Cinque Torre, such as the Torre Barancio North Face.
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Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : ... : Scarf Arete, a.k.a. "Spigol... (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was my first-ever climb in the Dolomites in 1963. The Spigolo del Velo is also known as "die Schleierkante" in German. Translated, this is the "edge of the wedding veil." Herman Buhl made the climb famous by his reference as "the heavenly ladder made by God for the climber" comment in Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage. Other authors have stated that the climb is the most beautiful rock climb in the Eastern Alps. Take it from me: they weren't lying about it!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Drunken Cowboy (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 25, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've also heard this route called "Drunken Cowboy."
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