Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Rodger Raubach


Point Rank: # 61
Total Points: 5,799
Last Year: 2,060
Last 30 Days: 81
62 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 1851 | Routes 65 | Areas 46 | Photos 815 | Page Improvments | Comments 415 | Posts 7 | Stars 293 | Ratings 210
Page 4 of 17.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Left Side (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 29, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Overall a decent route, but tends to be more a consolation prize if the Center is already occupied. First lead is probably 5.5, and the second is worthwhile, 5.7. More loose rock than elsewhere, too. Watch it towards the top, pulling onto the Grack "summit."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Chouin... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Chris is correct, this indeed is the second pitch variation. The 5.8 first pitch is fun, and this 5.6 variation is a good alternative to the HD route normal finish.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The accident rate on this climb is high only because it's probably the most popular "moderate" climb in Eldorado. Not a good beginner lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Southwest Chimney (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: BITD when I was young and stupid, we used to downclimb this unroped all the time. I wouldn't really recommend this for a n00b, since a fall would probably be pretty messy...if not fatal.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The Worm Hole is the only descent I've ever used. It's pretty easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: It definitely makes more sense to break this up into 4 short leads to avoid awful rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Great Dihedral (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I've done this route twice, or something very close to it, but both ascents were "way back when...." This is best done in the Fall when the water leveland creek crossing doesn't factor into the approach, or the effort isn't worthwhile. I didn't find this to be any harder than 5.4-5.5 at the time, but that's an "Old School" rating, too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: To the PO: this has ALWAYS been a little slick! It's a water runnel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Nice climb that's well worth the approach hike. Seemed easy for the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : Pseudo Sidetrack (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I believe the "R" rating pertains mostly to the first pitch, and I would be more inclined to call it PG-13. The risk factor is more evident to the second, following the first pitch, especially if it's regarded as a "date climb" for an inexperienced GF. I've had several young females get real freaked out by the rapidly found exposure.

That said, this is probably one of the few "easy" routes in Eldorado that could be called a "classic."


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : E.L.100 (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Re degree of difficulty: I'd agree with Crusher that the 5.7 rating is a sandbag. I felt a real forearm pump on this one and was very happy finding a great hand jam that allowed my forearms to deflate a bit. Realistically graded by "modern standards" as a 5.8, or even 5.8+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Super Slab (5.10+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 11, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I now recall the 1966 ascent that Bob Culp and I made as being one of the outstanding climbs of my career as an alpinist. The 4th pitch was made using exactly 1 point of aid, since there was a pre-existing piton placed in the niche where a toe hold could have been used otherwise! I recall yelling up to Bob that I thought we could have free climbed this entire pitch had that piton not interfered. Every other move on that lead was done entirely free by rigorous no falls standards in Kronhofer Klet... more >>


Location: Rodger Raubach : Dolomite landscapes and sce... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Tre Sorelle are home to several "extremes" done by Emilio Comici, and also by Riccardo Cassin.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Right ... (5.1)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: As originally climbed, this route was done in 4 pitches. Even today, this would minimize rockfall from rope management issues. Bring a helmet if you value your noggin!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Church Bowl : Church Bowl Tree (5.10b)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 4, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The first ascender was Mike Jefferson, not Mark!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Swan Slab : Swan Slab Chimney (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The Location needs a slight correction to be "just left of Oak Tree Flake," and not "hanging Flake."


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Stirrup Tank : Bronto Rock : Stegasaurus (5.9)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 25, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Donno- You are correct, and the new photo shows the rock well. There were no bolts when I did the route years ago.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : East Ridge (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: After looking at some of my older pictures and reading some of the other comments here, I'd suggest a provisional PG-13 rating for the first pitch. The North Face, although somewhat more difficult, is very well-protected from the start. A leader fall on this climb's first pitch probably wouldn't be fatal but would result in more than a wounded ego.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Matron : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Rodger being belayed by Brian Underhill, and Alan Carlson on the ridge above.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Echo Rock : Echo Rock - West Face : Stichter Quits (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: To keep everybody (myself included) happy, why don't we simply call the route "Stichter Quit Before He Got the Anchor in Place?"

I'd more seriously suggest the substructure be called the "Black Tide Dike," and keep the present name as a route thereon.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 21, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: If the Camin del Frasto is running with water, an alternative line may be climbed to the left at 5.7+/5.8-.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pomagagnon Group : ... : South Face, "Via Commune." (5.6 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 20, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This route is listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler/ Norbert Memel, Baton-Wicks London, (1998).
The Via Commune is route #50, and a good topo is included therein. My description above is from my first-hand experience on the first 4 pitches before traversing over to the "spigolo." Maurizio de Zanna gave me a rudimentary topo and some beta at the time. Said it was very unprotected, but the climbing was fairly easy and straightforward. As a general rule, t... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Bought the lid in Germany in 1964 for climbing in the Dolomites.


Location: NC : Stone Mountain : Stone Mountain South Face : Entrance Crack (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I did this climb on the day before Christmas, 1986. I didn't have a guidebook other than "Dixie Crystals," and I sure didn't have a #6 Camalot (they didn't exist then!). In fact, I don't even remember placing any pro after the tree. I thought it was mentally more difficult than anything on the Great Arch Route that my GF and I did subsequently.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - West Face : Tiptoe (5.7+)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 19, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I have always used a wired stopper slotted behind the flake, and it's less likely to damage it should a fall occur. I'd say this is a PG13 move up to the first bolt; not really a death fall possible at the start, but a great leg or ankle breaker.


Page 4 of 17.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>