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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; ...


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 5 days ago
Contact Rodger Raubach


Point Rank: # 54
Total Points: 6,740
Last Year: 1,507
Last 30 Days: 12
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 2062 | Routes 71 | Areas 51 | Photos 959 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 458 | Posts 8 | Stars 300 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cirgruppe : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 2, 2013

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Comments: This photo is somewhat dated; originally taken as a 35 mm slide in 1964.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : ... : Exnerturm
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: The summit of the Exnerturm may be reached by ~60 meters of easy climbing/scrambling from the via Ferrata described in approach to the tower. The descent utilizes the via Ferrata to return to the starting point of the climbs on the North face.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 28, 2013

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Comments: Both the old Berti-CAI guidebook and the new Mauro Bernardi guides correctly list this climb as a route on Torre Romana, and not as a Torre Barancio route.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Placche Zebrate
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Dave-
The German speaking climbers have a name for the area as well: Die Sonnige Platten, or the Sunny Slabs.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Placche Zebrate
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: Brian-
Did via 46th Parallel the 2nd week of September. Route is now posted in the data base.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Geisler Group (Gruppe Odle) : ... : Normal Route (5.2)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: I was unable to do this route on a recent trip to the Dolomites; a major change in weather plastered the route with snow on 9 September, 2013. I made a rest day exploratory trip on the Seceda Seilbahn, and followed the approach as far as Pana-Scharte. I was primarily interested in doing the route to learn the downclimb from the 3 other very nice routes on the mountain.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Geisler Group (Gruppe Odle) : ... : Normal Route (5.2)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 26, 2013

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Comments: This description relies heavily on information derived from "Klettern in den Dolomiten; die schoensten Routen fuer Anfaenger und Fortgeschrittenenien, Grad III/IV" by Mauro Bernardi. Published by: Athesia, Bozen.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : Falzarego Towers
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: The Falzarego Towers are a popular destination during periods of colder weather and/or following early season light snowstorms. I climbed the via della Guida on the Kleiner Falzaregoturm under exactly those circumstances.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Torre Piccola, "via della G... (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: Via della Guide and via Comici are quite close by to one another. and the second belay of Via della Guide is shared with the Comici route; the final 3 pitches of the 2 routes are also congruent.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Torre Grande di Falzarego W... (5.5 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 20, 2013

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Comments: At least 2 routes exist on the West Face of the Grosser Falzaregoturm, and both are rated as UIAA Gr. IV climbs. Since the original poster here mentioned the red arrow marking, I would conclude he did the "Alpini Route." The Lussato Route close to the chasm between towers is not marked.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi and Fanis Group : South-West Face "Via del Bu... (5.5 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: There are 2 upper finish variations in addition to 2 variations to begin the route; this gives 4 different combinations, all of which are great with excellent rock.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Spigolo Sud aka the South R... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: The German language guidebook by Mauro Bernardi points out there's an alternative access to this climb via the "Golginger Stollen," an W.W. I military tunnel through the mountain. Headlamps or flashlight essential. See the recently added picture for the start.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : Sass di Stria "Hexenstein."
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 19, 2013

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Comments: Unbeknownst to me earlier, there's an alternative approach to the Colbertaldo route on the arÍte: a Great War (W.W. I) military tunnel which burrows through the mountain and exits near the start!


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 18, 2013

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Comments: The Mauro Bernardi guidebook rates this climb as UIAA Gr. IV+, which is also equivalent to 5.6.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Placche Zebrate : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: I used this as a handhold while doing "46th Parallel!" The routes are very close together, and I suspect we may have done some of "Via Trento" inadvertently.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Arco and Surrounding Area : Placche Zebrate : via 46th Parallel (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: I lost all the pertinent data due to a connectivity problem, So, here it is as a note:
First lead is quite polished from lots of ascents. Decent protection from cemented-in-place pitons or bolts. Occasional natural protection, either knobs or "Sand Uhrs."
Descend to climber's left via a decent path in the Geroll. Takes about 20-30 minutes to regain the starting point.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Pala Group : Cimone della Pala
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: Wow! I just revisited the Rolle Pass after an interval of 50 years had passed. I was simply overwhelmed by the sheer size of the mountain; obviously the years intervening allowed it to do a lot of shrinking in my mind. This sucker is HUGE!


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 17, 2013

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Comments: The chasm on the left side of the tower is the descent route after 2 rappels to a high point between the two towers. It's definitely "real" class 3 and some class 4 downclimbing, and an occasional short rappel from rock outcrops may be necessary especially in cold/wet/icy conditions.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via Normale (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 16, 2013

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Comments: The original description given above is not erroneous, but they may have done one of the more difficult variations to begin the route. The Mauro Bernardi guidebook route actually begins on the Southeast face and angles upwards and left to the triangular ceiling for the first belay. This has become something of a "trade route, " frequently with as many as 5-6 parties either on the rock or queued up in line.
I climbed the route earlier today with Mauro, and he started by a large ring bolt anchor, ... more >>


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Torre Piccola, "via della G... (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 14, 2013

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Comments: An additional comment re: descent. The descent is arduous and time consuming; don't underestimate how long it will take to get off the peak. Maybe that I was nursing an injured knee has affected my viewpoint, but others have expressed similar comments to me privately.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: The recently available guidebook authored by Mauro Bernardi, more correctly lists this as the NW Dihedral route on Torre Romana, with an UIAA Grade of IV+ (roughly equivalent with YDS 5.6).


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via Normale (Northeast Wall... (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Additional commentary. This is a really fun route with a couple of very exciting rappels from a tree near the S. edge of the West face. Although the "Dolomite standard" rope is 50 meters, a 60 meter rope makes many of the descents less tricky in reaching subsequent rappel anchors.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I'm currently sending this from Wolkenstein during a rain delay in my climbing.
A few additional notes should be entered here; although bus transportation is excellent, a rental car is advised. BUT be very careful, as there are lots of huge busses on the mountain roads in addition to maniacal-suicidal motorcyclists, as well as only suicidal bicyclists! That said, accomodations are generally reasonable in the many Pensions and Hotels-Garni.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again today: 50 years TO THE DAY after my first ascent. The first 10 meters are what Mauro Bernardi has called "abgespeckt" or greasy like bacon, due to the enormous amount of traffic seen by this climb.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via delle Guide (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The "definitive" guidebook by Mauro Bernardi shows the route broken into 5 short leads. These are also the points at which to expect the big ring bolt anchors.


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