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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 4 days ago
Contact Rodger Raubach


Point Rank: # 58
Total Points: 5,721
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All (1818) | Routes (64) | Areas (46) | Photos (796) | Comments (406) | Posts (6) | Stars (291) | Ratings (209)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo : Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete (5.9+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The difficulty rating has changed over the intervening years, and is now rated as a 5.10-, or a 5.10a.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Due to an enormous amount of traffic on this route, the rock has become quite polished, making the climb somewhat more difficult than "5.5." Was on it today, and it sure felt more like 5.7 than "a mere 5.5."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Mystery Achievement (5.7 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: A 70 meter rope is needed for a single rope rappel, or lowering. Still...tie knots in the rope ends!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Once an anchor is set atop this climb, there are several lines slightly harder and more challenging for beginners practice.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Eastside Groove (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: This climb is sometimes confused and misidentified as "Epic," but that climb is the last one on the East Face and right of Eastside Groove.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Epic (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: From your photo, you describe the Eastside Groove, and not Epic. Epic is the system to the right of the long and straight crack system. Both routes are 5.6.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Photo taken by Fritz.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Easy Way Up (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This climb and the Cowboy Route share a belay stance after the first 50 foot pitch. Starting the climb is probably the hardest couple moves on it. I'd call the start 5.5, or the infamous "5.4d."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: A very enjoyable first pitch, correctly graded at 5.7. Excellent protection.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Cowboy (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This route description coincides with the route diagram in the Bingham guidebook for the Cowgirl Route, ending in the right most crack system with a tree in it. The guidebook route for Cowboy route aims almost straight up towards the left crack of the two described above.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Nipples and Clits (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: The route shares an anchor with Dimples and Tits.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Dimples and Tits (5.11a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Dimples and Tits is listed in the Bingham guidebook as Kibbles and Bits.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Friction Slide (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Foolishness (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Rob Kelman recommends bringing along a #4 Camalot for the wide section in his book: Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : 5.7 Cracks (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: BITD before wired stoppers, Camalots, and sticky rubber soles, this climb had quite a reputation for being pretty scary. I tried it once in old RR Blue Boots and with a few pitons along. Sadly failed but led it easily a number of years later in Sportivas with a light rack with small wires and a couple cams.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: My "most memorable" ascent of this route was in the Fall of 1965 with Layton Kor. We timed ourselves, and it took only 40 minutes car-to-car. That was still driving and pulling pitons (I recall only ONE piton being placed on the 2nd lead). That was an "after work special" by Layton, and we had to go get beer and a bite to eat.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Left Side (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Overall a decent route, but tends to be more a consolation prize if the Center is already occupied. First lead is probably 5.5, and the second is worthwhile, 5.7. More loose rock than elsewhere, too. Watch it towards the top, pulling onto the Grack "summit."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Chouin... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Chris is correct, this indeed is the second pitch variation. The 5.8 first pitch is fun, and this 5.6 variation is a good alternative to the HD route normal finish.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Calypso (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 24, 2013

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Comments: The accident rate on this climb is high only because it's probably the most popular "moderate" climb in Eldorado. Not a good beginner lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Southwest Chimney (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 23, 2013

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Comments: BITD when I was young and stupid, we used to downclimb this unroped all the time. I wouldn't really recommend this for a n00b, since a fall would probably be pretty messy...if not fatal.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 19, 2013

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Comments: The Worm Hole is the only descent I've ever used. It's pretty easy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Jackson's Wall (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: It definitely makes more sense to break this up into 4 short leads to avoid awful rope drag.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Eagle Rock : Great Dihedral (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2013

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Comments: I've done this route twice, or something very close to it, but both ascents were "way back when...." This is best done in the Fall when the water leveland creek crossing doesn't factor into the approach, or the effort isn't worthwhile. I didn't find this to be any harder than 5.4-5.5 at the time, but that's an "Old School" rating, too.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Cussin' Crack (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: To the PO: this has ALWAYS been a little slick! It's a water runnel.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Cadillac Crag : V3 (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 15, 2013

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Comments: Nice climb that's well worth the approach hike. Seemed easy for the grade.


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