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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Rodger Raubach


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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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All 1828 | Routes 64 | Areas 46 | Photos 796 | Page Improvments | Comments 413 | Posts 7 | Stars 292 | Ratings 210
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Northwest Corner (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: The recently available guidebook authored by Mauro Bernardi, more correctly lists this as the NW Dihedral route on Torre Romana, with an UIAA Grade of IV+ (roughly equivalent with YDS 5.6).


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via Normale (Northeast Wall... (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: Additional commentary. This is a really fun route with a couple of very exciting rappels from a tree near the S. edge of the West face. Although the "Dolomite standard" rope is 50 meters, a 60 meter rope makes many of the descents less tricky in reaching subsequent rappel anchors.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 10, 2013

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Comments: I'm currently sending this from Wolkenstein during a rain delay in my climbing.
A few additional notes should be entered here; although bus transportation is excellent, a rental car is advised. BUT be very careful, as there are lots of huge busses on the mountain roads in addition to maniacal-suicidal motorcyclists, as well as only suicidal bicyclists! That said, accomodations are generally reasonable in the many Pensions and Hotels-Garni.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : North Face (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Sep 8, 2013

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Comments: Did this route again today: 50 years TO THE DAY after my first ascent. The first 10 meters are what Mauro Bernardi has called "abgespeckt" or greasy like bacon, due to the enormous amount of traffic seen by this climb.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via delle Guide (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The "definitive" guidebook by Mauro Bernardi shows the route broken into 5 short leads. These are also the points at which to expect the big ring bolt anchors.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Easy Way Up (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: This is NOT a "Sport Climb!"


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Cowgirl (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 9, 2013

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Comments: The first pitch in common with Cowboy Route and Easy Way Up is an outstandingly fun 50 feet of climbing to a decently protected belay stance where Easy Way Up starts. Bring either a #3 or # 4 Camalot for an anchor.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Tre Cime di Lavaredo : Cima Ovest, N.E. Arete (5.9+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 5, 2013

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Comments: The difficulty rating has changed over the intervening years, and is now rated as a 5.10-, or a 5.10a.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Cornelius (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jul 23, 2013

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Comments: Due to an enormous amount of traffic on this route, the rock has become quite polished, making the climb somewhat more difficult than "5.5." Was on it today, and it sure felt more like 5.7 than "a mere 5.5."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Super Hits - Bloody Fingers : Mystery Achievement (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: A 70 meter rope is needed for a single rope rappel, or lowering. Still...tie knots in the rope ends!


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Practice Rock : First Lead (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 25, 2013

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Comments: Once an anchor is set atop this climb, there are several lines slightly harder and more challenging for beginners practice.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Eastside Groove (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: This climb is sometimes confused and misidentified as "Epic," but that climb is the last one on the East Face and right of Eastside Groove.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Epic (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 16, 2013

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Comments: From your photo, you describe the Eastside Groove, and not Epic. Epic is the system to the right of the long and straight crack system. Both routes are 5.6.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7) : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Photo taken by Fritz.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Easy Way Up (5.4 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This climb and the Cowboy Route share a belay stance after the first 50 foot pitch. Starting the climb is probably the hardest couple moves on it. I'd call the start 5.5, or the infamous "5.4d."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Flaming Rock : Raindance (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: A very enjoyable first pitch, correctly graded at 5.7. Excellent protection.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bath Rock : Bath Rock - East : Cowboy (5.5)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: This route description coincides with the route diagram in the Bingham guidebook for the Cowgirl Route, ending in the right most crack system with a tree in it. The guidebook route for Cowboy route aims almost straight up towards the left crack of the two described above.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Nipples and Clits (5.10a PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: The route shares an anchor with Dimples and Tits.


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Breadloaves : Decadent Wall : Dimples and Tits (5.11a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: Dimples and Tits is listed in the Bingham guidebook as Kibbles and Bits.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Friction Slide (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: This can actually be thought of as a "hard start" variation for Walt's Wall; Edward's Crack can be reached by climbing the Siska Face. It's also a nice toprope for climbers wanting to explore the wonderful world of face/friction climbing at Vedauwoo!


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Foolishness (5.4)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: Rob Kelman recommends bringing along a #4 Camalot for the wide section in his book: Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : 5.7 Cracks (5.7+ PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 9, 2013

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Comments: BITD before wired stoppers, Camalots, and sticky rubber soles, this climb had quite a reputation for being pretty scary. I tried it once in old RR Blue Boots and with a few pitons along. Sadly failed but led it easily a number of years later in Sportivas with a light rack with small wires and a couple cams.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Bulge (5.7 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Jun 6, 2013

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Comments: My "most memorable" ascent of this route was in the Fall of 1965 with Layton Kor. We timed ourselves, and it took only 40 minutes car-to-car. That was still driving and pulling pitons (I recall only ONE piton being placed on the 2nd lead). That was an "after work special" by Layton, and we had to go get beer and a bite to eat.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : The Grack - Left Side (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 29, 2013

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Comments: Overall a decent route, but tends to be more a consolation prize if the Center is already occupied. First lead is probably 5.5, and the second is worthwhile, 5.7. More loose rock than elsewhere, too. Watch it towards the top, pulling onto the Grack "summit."


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Monday Morning Slab, Chouin... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 25, 2013

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Comments: Chris is correct, this indeed is the second pitch variation. The 5.8 first pitch is fun, and this 5.6 variation is a good alternative to the HD route normal finish.


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