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Rodger leading the first pitch on bishop Jaggers; 1985 ascent.


Member Since: May 31, 2010
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Rodger Raubach


Point Rank: # 54
Total Points: 6,433
Last Year: 2,629
Last 30 Days: 715
65 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Rodger Raubach been climbing?










Contributions


All 1991 | Routes 68 | Areas 48 | Photos 916 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 438 | Posts 8 | Stars 297 | Ratings 211
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: This pitch finishes directly on the arÍte to the climber's left, and uses holds on both sides of the knife-edge. Thrilling and exposed!


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: These are wonderful, cemented in ring bolt anchors.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: These final moves to the summit block via a knife-edge arÍte are definitely excitingly exposed.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via Normale (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: I enjoyed this climb, but the time-worn first pitch is as greasy and smooth as can be imagined. My rating of 2 stars was a downgrade from the final, exposed ascending traverse to an exciting summit, which was definitely worth 3 stars as a stand alone. It is reasonably well protected by cemented in pitons and large eyebolts. If climbing this with a beginner, definitely take a 60 or 70 meter rope in case of a fall on pitch 2; then lowering to the ground is an option.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Cinque Torri : ... : Via Normale (Northeast Wall... (5.3)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Aug 28, 2014

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Comments: This is an excellent "family" climb for those with inexperienced beginners and smaller children Care must be taken on the described rappels, and descent of the face climbed is a safer alternative. I repeated this one in my Boulder-X approach shoes, and still found it very easy.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Sella Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 24, 2014

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Comments: Piz Pordoi directly in center behind climber. The "Fedele" route cruises up the black rock towards the left.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Vajolet Towers : ... : South Face (Fehrmann) (5.7 PG13)
By: Rodger Raubach When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: This was one of the first routes in Europe with an American (Oliver Perry-Smith) as one of the first ascentionists. Many of Perry-Smith's routes in the Dresdener Sandstein are still quite serious and were of 5.9-5.10 difficulty.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Lagazuoi and Fanis Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: This is the famous "Kaiserjaegerweg" descent, using paths from the military fortifications of the First World War. Not quite a "via ferrata," but exposed terrain otherwise.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes : Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little M... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: This climb is also listed in Classic Dolomite Climbs, Anette Koehler and Norbert Memmel, Baton-Wicks, 1999. It's their Route # 11.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes : Via Rossi - Tomasi (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: This route is #1 on my 2014 Dolomites "hit list." The wall is very attractive and has a reasonable approach and descent for a starter/introduction to Piz Ciavazes climbing.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes : Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little M... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: I was screwed out of doing this route this past year by a combination of injured knee and early snow in September. My information was abstracted from the German language guidebook, personal contact with it's author Mauro Bernardi, and other local climbers.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes : Kleine Micheluzzi/"Little M... (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: This route lies to the right of the Big Micheluzzi, Schubert, and the central gully system. The Rampenfuehre, the easiest of lower face routes , lies just to the right from this climb.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Ciavazes : Via Rossi - Tomasi (5.7)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 26, 2013

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Comments: The UIAA rating of this climb is Gr. IV+. Other climbs I've done at this level seem to be a pretty stout and old school "5.6," which is usually called 5.7 these days. There are at least 2 other climbs at this (UIAA Gr. IV+) level on Piz Ciavazes: Kleine Micheluzzi, and the "Rampenfuehre."


Location: ID : City of Rocks : Window Rock : Window Rock - East : Juniper Jam (5.6)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 23, 2013

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Comments: Bring several hand size pieces (#1 & #2 Camalots); the crack eats gear!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Quail Springs Area : Trashcan Rock : Trashcan Rock - East Face : Wallaby Crack (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 18, 2013

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Comments: The start (first 10 feet) is harder than 5.8; I'd give it a 5.9- and is strenuous.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Pixie Rock : Who's First (5.6 R)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: This is a very fun climb, and is no "giveaway" at the grade. It's what I call an "Old School" 5.6. Highly recommended! It would be 4 stars if it were longer!


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : Gait Of Power (5.10a)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: There may have been a bolt replacement, since there is one with what appears to be a new hanger next to an older chopped bolt stub.
Use the magnification feature to check it out...
Use the magnification feature to check it out...



Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Billboard Buttress : We Dive At Dawn (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Nov 11, 2013

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Comments: I just bouldered the start this past weekend, and it's definitely not a 5.7/5.7+; I'd be tempted to call it 5.8, and NOT a "minus." That said, this is a nice climb that I first did back in 1986. It seemed kinda' hard even then.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: The entire Fanis area was once part of Austria, and old military ruins are everywhere. The mountains themselves are honeycombed with old tunnels connecting fortifications. This was the frontier/front lines during W.W. I. Many of the paths are ex-military mule paths.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 28, 2013

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Comments: Natural protection is plentiful, and threads are called "Sanduhrs," (German for "hourglass.")
Typical tied off Sanduhr.
Typical tied off Sanduhr.



Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Piz Pordoi : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: Too bad I had to shoot through the Plexiglas cabin window; that gave rise to the reflections.


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon : The Bridge : Pet Semetary (5.8)
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: This is a very fun climb, and one that I highly recommend. I do this route almost every visit to the Bridge area, and it makes a great warmup.


Location: WY : Fremont Canyon
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 14, 2013

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Comments: To expand on the answer given Trask: Steve Petro was only one of the "major players." Arno Ilgner, Kelly Moore, and Pat Parmenter were also heavily involved in developing a high standard in the area. later on, Steve Bechtel played a part.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Fanis Group : ... : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: This photo illustrates the descent from Cima Col dei Bos using the old mule paths from W.W. I.


Location: International : Europe : Italy : Dolomites : Photo
By: Rodger Raubach When: Oct 13, 2013

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Comments: This castle houses a very complete museum, which is open to the public; the entrance fee, which includes a tour, is 7 Euros for adults.


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